sp-OIL-er Alert

[Warwgn]

This could be an OIL and Tire thread, so bail out now if you want to 


So for my upcoming 2500 mile weekend ride I plan on 2 things that will be a bit out of the norm, keep in mind I live in Central Mississippi so always hot and humid, with more hot and high temps that make it feel....well HOT. I am riding a loop basically up and around Lake Erie so about 1/4 of my time it should be not hot but for the rest of this year and most of my riding it will be hot. Also I ride at least 80 miles every day of the week and then pleasure ride on weekends and take other trips,...blah blah blah, I get lots of miles.

Now with the afore mentioned knowledge I have a crazy plan, sort of at least to some possibly, I am putting a car tire on the bike to get the mileage I want and since I need a new one before my upcoming trip. Also gonna replace the wheel bearings in the back and brake pads while I am back there, in addition it is time to change the oil. about 7K miles ago I put AMSOIL 10w40 and a new filter in it so time to change that as well, however this time I am gonna put Castroil GTX 20w50 in and give it a try for a couple months of the hottest part of the summer down here and then switch back to 10w40 as it drops back to 80's and under for temperatures and it will be time to change it again anyway by then.

So the reason for this post is to give results of this experiment, what data points should I get, I am thinking

MPG current vs After
RPM at 50 MPH current vs After
RPM at 70 MPH current vs After

and not sure what else would be useful? But those are the only changes I am making, let me know what ya think?

[Redbarron]

Gastrol GTX 20w50

You might as well pump in straight un-refined crude oil.  High sulfated ash content and low flash point ect. ect.

Also it is (NOT) JASO MA-2 spec and will contaminate your clutch friction material.

Do your self a favor and do your technical research before using any oil.

Good Luck on your trip, stay safe and have fun

[Jim]

I personally don't believe there would be a need for 20W-50 on water cooled motorcycles.  And as previously mentioned, stay away from any motor oil which claims "low friction" or "higher fuel mileage" formula.  Generally, motor oils for diesel engines will have a higher zinc content and won't have the low friction additives.  The JASO MA is good to look for but usually comes with a higher price.  Just because a motor oil meets a certain spec, it doesn't mean the manufacture has to have it certified against that spec.  For example, check out this Mobil 1 spec sheet and you'll see the Mobil 1 Turbo/Truck/Diesel (which I'm using) also has about the same amount of Phosphorus and Zinc as the 10W-40 motorcycle racing 4T oil (which I used to use).

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

[Daytona_Mike]

Castroil GTX 20w50    bad idea unless you want to ruin your clutch plates on purpose.

Stay with the Amsoil.  That is good oil and stay with 10w40.

[Warwgn]

I do see Castrol has 4T made for motorcycles now in 20w50 so may try that instead. Have used the GTX20w50 for desert racing ATV's and had really good results and never an issue with the clutch, but that is just me. I did crash several times, but if you aint crashing you aint riding fast enough when it comes to desert racing.

[RWulf]

If your going to put a CAR TIRE on your bike go ahead and use
any oil you want. You probably won't be around long enough to
see any engine damage.

[Warwgn]

If your going to put a CAR TIRE on your bike go ahead and use
any oil you want. You probably won't be around long enough to
see any engine damage.

good one!!
 

[fred-houston]

I think you are way overthinking this. 

The trip you are describing, I would just change the oil before I go, with the 10W40 semi synthetic oil I normally run, and then change it when I get back. 

I took my wing to Alaska and back with no oil change during the trip and ending up having over 130,000 miles on it when I sold it without have any sign of any engine issues.  I did a couple of other trips up to Alaska, on different bikes and never changed oil during the trip, and never had any oil related issues while I owned the bikes.   

I regularly do 5 to 6 thousand mile trips and I have never changed oil on any of the trips.

If you are using a motorcycle grade oil, the bike won't have any issues, if your bike uses some oil, take a quart and check it regularly.

[MAN OF BLUES]

I've never blown up an engine, or had to replace a clutch, ever, from using Castrol GT oils, for almost 40 years...

Just my opinion....and experience...

To appease the "use this oil" crowd, just use the "T" series stuff, so you don't get crucified... its JASO and MA2 rated.
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/3B00F72E98F29A108025796400640657/$File/BPXE-8ELLFM_0.pdf

As far as vicosity, I agree you don't need a 50w in the east, but I use 20w50 in my air cooled KZ, and have no problems.

Oh, and temps up.here in Ohio this year have been pretty toasty, we have been in a 85* zone for a few weeks, and it doesn't look like it will end soon...
Stop and gotraffic around the great lakes is common, so, use what you feel is appropriate.

As for documenting stuff, like rpm vs road speed... that is a constant, it doesn't change by oil differences...
Acceleration times to speed tho, are effected.

I really don't get all this Castrol Bashing stuff...thes "opinions" seem to surface, but I don't see any proof of the results....

I really hate oil threads..


https://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

I'm still curious about which oil Andrew Byrd was using in his C14..... when his clutch fried like bacon during the Iron Butt this year...
 

[Warwgn]

As for documenting stuff, like rpm vs road speed... that is a constant, it doesn't change by oil differences...
Acceleration times to speed tho, are effected.

I am changing the constant, the CT is taller, actually a lot taller than stock. The Dunlop E4 I have is a 150/80x16 the CT is a 175R16 so I should drop RPMS. When I swapped to this tire on my wing which was a 160/80x16 it decreased my cruising rpm by 400 revs, I am hoping for similar or better reduction on the C10.

But once changed then yes, it will be constant again unless I change to something else, I believe you may have though I meant changing the oil would affect those.

[Warwgn]

I think you are way overthinking this. 

The trip you are describing, I would just change the oil before I go, with the 10W40 semi synthetic oil I normally run, and then change it when I get back. 

I took my wing to Alaska and back with no oil change during the trip and ending up having over 130,000 miles on it when I sold it without have any sign of any engine issues.  I did a couple of other trips up to Alaska, on different bikes and never changed oil during the trip, and never had any oil related issues while I owned the bikes.   

I regularly do 5 to 6 thousand mile trips and I have never changed oil on any of the trips.

If you are using a motorcycle grade oil, the bike won't have any issues, if your bike uses some oil, take a quart and check it regularly.

Agree, I am switching brand and viscosity because of the heat I ride in, not due to the trip. I change oil every 5 to 8 thousand miles depending on what I have going at the time, could be sooner or later if I am on the road.

[fred-houston]

I think you are way overthinking this. 

The trip you are describing, I would just change the oil before I go, with the 10W40 semi synthetic oil I normally run, and then change it when I get back. 

I took my wing to Alaska and back with no oil change during the trip and ending up having over 130,000 miles on it when I sold it without have any sign of any engine issues.  I did a couple of other trips up to Alaska, on different bikes and never changed oil during the trip, and never had any oil related issues while I owned the bikes.   

I regularly do 5 to 6 thousand mile trips and I have never changed oil on any of the trips.

If you are using a motorcycle grade oil, the bike won't have any issues, if your bike uses some oil, take a quart and check it regularly.

Agree, I am switching brand and viscosity because of the heat I ride in, not due to the trip. I change oil every 5 to 8 thousand miles depending on what I have going at the time, could be sooner or later if I am on the road.

I ride in the Houston, Texas area, so I don't think it is any hotter where you are at than here.  I still use 10W40 in all my bikes, and in over 30 years of riding down here, have never had an oil related issue on any bike I have owned.  I usually change mine between 3 and 4 thousand miles, unless I am on a road trip. 

[WillyP]

You might feel more hot because of the humidity, but the bike doesn't rely on evaporative cooling, so no matter how humid it is, the bike feels the actual temp. No need for stressing the oil pump trying to pump too-thick oil through passages designed for a lighter oil. Contrary to popular belief, a thicker oil does not lubricate better. Unless it is so hot the oil is breaking down, you are better off sticking to the oil the manufacturer designed the motor to use.

[Warwgn]

it is recomended, my Clymer manual lists 10W-40, 10W-50 20w-40 or 20W-50, so it in spec.

20W-50 is for 32 degrees and up

[Dave Scott]

I've run automotive oil before and never hurt clutch plates or anything.  I'd say run what you want and forget about what nay-sayers tell you.   

what CT are you going to use?  I want to put one on my C10 that I have a sidecar rig on.  it won't be seeing any leaning.

[Warwgn]

https://www.universaltire.com/175r16-austone-taxi-black.html

Austone Taxi Tire

[Uncle Rob]

While on the road, my C10 never gets to above 1/3 of the temp gauge in central Florida summer.  The only time is gets above that is in slow traffic.  You get better mileage with lighter weight oils.  Better millage means less friction and heat.  As long as it will support the bearings, I would go with the manufacture's thinnest recommendation in synthetic.

[Warwgn]

So I made note today of some data:

MPG worst 36 best 46, AVG 40.2 (I track this using an app on my phone with every fill up)
55MPH top gear 3400 RPM
80MPH top gear 5000 RPM

Think I will have time to swap on the new tire this weekend so will post the RPM changes next week.

[Dave Scott]

Let me know how it fits!

[WillyP]

I've run automotive oil before and never hurt clutch plates or anything.  I'd say run what you want and forget about what nay-sayers tell you.   

I agree, though nobody said not to use car oil. I use truck oil myself. If 20/50 makes you happy, go right ahead.

what CT are you going to use?  I want to put one on my C10 that I have a sidecar rig on.  it won't be seeing any leaning.

Ok enough about oil. 

[Mettler1]

   Well OK but my oil is still better than your oil!!

[Dave Scott]

I've run automotive oil before and never hurt clutch plates or anything.  I'd say run what you want and forget about what nay-sayers tell you.   

I agree, though nobody said not to use car oil. I use truck oil myself. If 20/50 makes you happy, go right ahead.

what CT are you going to use?  I want to put one on my C10 that I have a sidecar rig on.  it won't be seeing any leaning.

Ok enough about oil. 

that's a really good point....a thread about oil AND car tires.  I'm in heaven!   

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

Gastrol GTX 20w50

You might as well pump in straight un-refined crude oil.  High sulfated ash content and low flash point ect. ect.

This ^^^^

 When I read that you were going to take out a synthetic oil with a high flash point, and replace it with a conventional oil with a lower flash point in hopes of increasing the ability to withstand heat, well that didn't make alot of sense to me.As a professional engine builder for 30+ years, I know the difference between good oils and cheap oils. Castrol GTX was areally good oil 40 years ago, in today's world with stuff like mobil 1 around, not so much. BTW, I run mobil 1 turbo diesel in my bikes. Steve

[Mettler1]

Gastrol GTX 20w50





BTW, I run mobil 1 turbo diesel in my bikes. Steve

     That's good enough for me!! 
    I'm on my way out the door to git me some!!

[Bocajnala]

I want more info on the car tire. I've been considering doing this and I'm close to a tire change... will it mount right up without changing anything??
-Jake