Custom Electric Fuel Valve for C10

I set out to find a perfect electric solenoid modification for this bike over 3 years ago.  I had several failures and ran several test.  I wrote about the testing in an article in the Concourier Summer 09 issue " To Mod or not to Mod"

If you want to know what I have been running the last 3 years read on. I was running a longevity test so I did not write about a mod that is no better then stock.

Here is what I am running now and has not failed or caused starvation issues in 3 years. I agree with Zorlac that any of these valves could fail if a bit of crap gets between the plunger and the seat.  A couple of power cycles should clear it though and it has not happen to me or JD who runs the same valve ever.

I removed the oem petcock and put on the adapter plate for a Pinnacle manual valve.  At that time Murph sold them but do not see them in the catalog now.  Instead of the on off valve I go right to a 90 degree 5/16 nipple.  I was worried another on off valve there would cause the fuel to not flow downhill as it needed to.   

From that I have a short piece of 5/16 tycon (not vinyl) thick wall tubing.  Use the Motion Pro stuff with the thick wall like Murph sells.   From the short hose I go to a fuel line quick disconnect.

This disconnect lets me take the tank off and no dripping.

From the other half of the disconnect I add another very short hose to the 3/8" replaceable cartridge filter sort of like this.

The one I have does not have interchangeable nipples.
NOTE!!!!  They sell a plastic version of this same cartridge filter. GET THE GLASS ONE, the plastic ones melt.  I got mine at O'Rielly's (PS:  I think I got the plastic one from JC Whitney so be careful.

After the filter I have another short hose and then it goes right into this valve... the one that goes direct through and not the 90 degree one.

Out of that I have a short hose and second quick release connector. From that it goes to the fuel rail.

If I have a failure with the system I can bypass the entire system with a short hose and quick connects.  Never had to do that.

Here is how it lays on the bike.   The 90 nipple on the tank points back and in some.  The filter lays on top of the 1-2 carb bodies.  The Valve is tie wrapped to the bottom of the right bike frame just above the 3-4 carb bodies.   When you look at it all the fuel flows all downhill.

I used just used cheap small tie wraps to secure the hoses to the different parts.  The 3/8 in filter was not that great of a connection but since you are forcing a 5/16 over a 3/8 it did seal well and stayed that way.   Since you can see the fuel in the lines it is easy to see if you have problems.   With the quick connects you can also connect to shop maintenance tanks easy.

I have two notes of warning though.   One, the quick disconnects use an o-ring.  You have to be careful not to damage this o-ring when connecting them.  I have damaged one when putting the tank on without being careful.  The other warning is even this good Tygon tubing stiffens with time.  I am replacing mine this year because I just feel it would be safer if I do.

This should be a link to some of the pictures.

I will also be looking for replacement valve seats.  The one on the bike sealed well after three years but you could see some swelling of the rubber.  There is also an o-ring that seals the body halves together that I had to do some clean up work on before putting it back together.
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