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04 C10 Oil level after oil & filter change

schwarz748449

Member
Member
Hi Guys

Just bought my C10 yesterday. Changing the oil/filter and final gear oil today. Waiting for the coolant to come Monday to flush and fill that.

With the oil change done and filled with the correct amount of oil per Clymer manual the oil fills up the level window completely With the bike on the center stand On my driveway.

I’ve double checked my math and think I’m right but is it normal?

3 bottles@946ml each =2838ml
1 syringe leftover. = 162ml
Total added. =3000ml or 3.0 liters/manual

Thanks for any help.

Also, whoever changed the oil last time scfewed up when the put the filter back together. They had the metal filter cap upside down below the filter. If you look at the picture in the manual, they had it this way(top down to bolt)

filter(sitting in the filter cap)
upside down filter cap
Washer
spring
exterior cap

Any ideas if this would cause a problem?

thanks again for all the help.
 
I doubt it would cause any issues.
With the cap on top, the oil flows around the filter and fills the cavity before the oil goes thru the entire filter.
I think the purpose of the cap is to prevent oil flow directly onto one place on the filter.
I'm guessing that prolonged direct flow could/maybe/possibly wash a hole thru the paper filter material.
 
The oil sight glass can be unreliable. Hopefully you removed both drain plugs - position A - when you drained your oil. Otherwise you'll be a little overfilled if you put a full 3 liters in when re-filling.

1696109042415.png

As far as the position of the oil filter and cap goes, not sure if would cause a problem but it would certainly effect oil flow. This is the correct assembly:

1696109489437.png
 
The oil sight glass can be unreliable. Hopefully you removed both drain plugs - position A - when you drained your oil. Otherwise you'll be a little overfilled if you put a full 3 liters in when re-filling.

View attachment 37020

As far as the position of the oil filter and cap goes, not sure if would cause a problem but it would certainly effect oil flow. This is the correct assembly:

View attachment 37021
That forward “A” bolt would explain it. Didn’t even see that one. I’m changing the oil again next week after a couple of local rides. Not sure when it was done last and it was pretty black. Let the system flush for a few miles then Change it again.

Thanks for the help.
 
Since you really don't know the level of the oil, you might drain a little until the level comes back into the sight glass.
If the oil is high enough, the crankshaft can hit it and create bubbles that can damage the bearings and other stuff in the engine.
Just pull a plug an drain 1/2 quart and check the sight glass.
 
I hate to say this, but I agree with Jorge.
ie; Too much oil can be as bad as too little.

There is a safer way to drain a "little" oil than removing a plug and hopefully getting it screwed back in.
ie; Loosen the oil filter a bit.
Once the O'ring breaks it's seal the oil will begin to leak out of the filter base.
You can control how much oil comes out by re-tightening.

Before and after draining:
In order to see the "actual oil level" in the sight glass you need to do a procedure.
ie;
1) Place bike on center stand.
2) Crank and let it run for about 10 minutes.
3) Shut off the bike and let it set for about 10 minutes.
4) Then,,,, Look at level in the sight glass.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Why don't u just unscrew yhe filled cap and suck some out? Less messy that way.....use a bulb squeeze,.not ur mouth....lol
 
Since you really don't know the level of the oil, you might drain a little until the level comes back into the sight glass.
If the oil is high enough, the crankshaft can hit it and create bubbles that can damage the bearings and other stuff in the engine.
Just pull a plug a drain 1/2 quart and check the sight glass.
Thanks Jorge. I’ll do that later today.
I hate to say this, but I agree with Jorge.
ie; Too much oil can be as bad as too little.

There is a safer way to drain a "little" oil than removing a plug and hopefully getting it screwed back in.
ie; Loosen the oil filter a bit.
Once the O'ring breaks it's seal the oil will begin to leak out of the filter base.
You can control how much oil comes out by re-tightening.

Before and after draining:
In order to see the "actual oil level" in the sight glass you need to do a procedure.
ie;
1) Place bike on center stand.
2) Crank and let it run for about 10 minutes.
3) Shut off the bike and let it set for about 10 minutes.
4) Then,,,, Look at level in the sight glass.

Ride safe, Ted
Thanks Guys. Removed extra oil yesterday. Now the oil sits right where it should.
 
Having the oil filtter cap fitted at the base of the filter wouldn't affect oil flow, simply the amount of compression of the spring, as the spring and the metal washer above it should go within the recess in the base of the filter.
 
Oil level is all good now.I’m going to go for a few rides then change it again. I got my new air filter in today and when I pulled out the old one, this was what I saw. The filter was so old that the foam was deteriorating and falling off the filter. The air box captured a lot on the fresh air side. Not sure when any preventative maintenance was last done.

when I changed the clutch fluid, it was golden in colour not clear and there was a gold coloured residue left in the reservoir that I had to wipe out with paper towels. Rear brake fluid was the same. Can’t wait to see what the front brake fluid looks likE tomorrow.

Flushing the coolant tomorrow and installing Honda Pro HP antifreeze. I’ve already done the final gear fluid, old stuff was really grey when it came out.

That should be all fluids changed, anything else that should be changed or looked at? I’ve also got Murph’s stainless steel brake and clutch lines on the way.
 

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+1 on changing the fork oil.
Grease the fittings on the rear suspension, and check your stem bearings.
You could also lubricate the throttle and enricher cables.
Keep looking, you'll keep finding things you can do to improve performance\looks\safety\reliability.
 
SISF overflow tubes on the float bowls if the PO didn't already do that. check tech area for "hydrolock".
-tdbru
 
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