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Handling and Stability Issues - SOLVED!

SethInIllinois

Member
Member
After scattering various questions and experiences across a variety of revived zombie threads, I figured I should do the reasonable thing and just start a new thread of my own.

Last fall, I bought a 2002 C10 with 12k miles, in excellent shape, but it had been sitting for most of the last 15 years (indoors, thankfully). After doing a full carb rebuild this winter, along with brake flushes, clutch system rebuild, valves, and a bunch of other minor stuff, I got it on the road this spring, but have been struggling with some handling issues that just just makes me uneasy, especially at highway speeds. When I got the bike, it had OE-spec Dunlops on it, in good shape with plenty of tread, but a late 2005 date code, so after doing just 100 miles on around-town shakedown riding, I promptly swapped them for a fresh set of Avon Spirit STs in 110/80ZR18 and 150/80ZR16. I don't know if the feeling was there with the old tires, or if I was just riding it so cautiously that I didn't notice, but ever since I've been on the new tires, it feels less stable than any bike I've ridden (granted, not a lot, and none as heavy or with as much fairing).

It just feels like it wants to wander at slow and mid speeds, and on the highway (above 60mph) is feels like it wants to wander and wobble at a slow rate. It's not nearly as rapid as a proper death wobble/tank-slapper, but still kind of unnerving. The turn-in effort is very, very minimal, and odd for such a big heavy bike (my Ninja 250 took a lot more countersteering effort). I'm not sure if that's part of cause or effect.

Here's a list of things I've done on the bike in attempts to suss out the issue:
  • Adjust rear shock sag and damping (it's got a Hagon shock with hydraulic remote preload adjustment). I can bet between 1" and 1.75" of sag, but neither seems to make much difference
  • Adjust front fork preload. Also did not make much difference
  • Re-torque all motor mounts. The rear two were pretty loose, while the fronts were fine. I think? it may have helped the high-speed feeling, but if so, it was small.
  • Check rear swingarm and re-torque bearing adjustment. It was right about at spec anyway. No apparent change.
  • Full front fork rebuild with Racetech emulators and 0.90kg/mm springs. I had planned on doing this anyway, so it wasn't primarily to address the handling issues. No apparent change on stability. The ride quality is so much better, though! I highly recommend the mod.
  • New steering head bearings. The old ones were about as tight as you could get them with my adjustable spanner, yet still didn't feel like they were binding. The upper race had grooves from the rollers all the way around, which suggests it had been over-tightened for a while, and after taking it out and cleaning it, I could feel slightly notchyness in the bearing, but I never noticed it on the bike. I set the new bearings to what felt good, with minimal drag and zero play.
  • Steering damper. I realize it shouldn't really be needed, and probably doesn't serve any benefit for this kind of slow and low-frequency, but it wasn't that much work, and I was curious to experiment.

I'm still trying to get to the bottom of it, and getting close to swapping my old tires on to see how that feels. The Avon's don't look uneven and I can't feel any wobble, vibration, or lumps, either rotating by hand, or when riding. I've got about 150 miles on them so far.

This afternoon, I did try loosening the steering bearing 1/8 turn, and maybe it helped, but still felt weird. I rode about 30 minutes, and the last 10 on slower city streets felt worse. When I got home, my damper (still connected) seemed stiffer, and the adjustment knob was jammed. I think it may be heat-soaked, so it probably stiffened up as the ride went on. It's a cheap Chinese unit, and I bet it's over-filled with oil so there's not enough expansion volume. I rode it this time without the bags, but generally intend to ride the bike with bags (it's a big part of why I got the bike. When I'm just jaunting around town without need of storage space, I take my 600).

I loosened the bearings up another 1/8 turn, and the bars now freely bounce off the stops and back to the other side, but still no play. I also disconnected my damper. so I'm going to try that again and report back.

I can't think of much else to try other than steering bearing adjustment and tires. At this point I may be hoping it's the tires, as I don't know what else to try. I am thinking even if it gets over this wobble, these are not the style of tires for me. I would prefer more turn-in effort, and feel like the sharp profile (and maybe the 110 front?) is part of what makes it sensitive and twitchy?
 
This is what helped my bike: front fork brace, rifle system for windshield, proper torque on steering stem nut. There should be no preload on the steering bearings. Section 13 of the factory manual goes through this. It sounds like it still might be too tight.

The best tires I found was the michelin pilot road (gold wing size). They don't make them anymore though. Have one rear tire left.

I would probably start with the stock size for the front 120/17-r18 rather than what you have, especially after stating they seem to turn in fast.

Also make sure that the forks are position the same as stock as a starting point. Some folks had experimented dropping the tree down on the forks, thus making it turn quicker. I would start with them in the factory position.
 
...At this point I may be hoping it's the tires, as I don't know what else to try. I am thinking even if it gets over this wobble, these are not the style of tires for me. I would prefer more turn-in effort, and feel like the sharp profile (and maybe the 110 front?) is part of what makes it sensitive and twitchy?

I've owned my '02 C-10 for 10 years now. I've had a number of different brand tires (Dunlop, Bridgestone, Avon, Michelin, Shinko) on my bike, in both bias ply and radial and in stock front size 120/70-18 and the smaller 110/80-18 size, and I can tell you that the 110 front definitely makes the bike more "sensitive and twitchy" as you put it. Radials exacerbate this feeling. My bike felt the most "stable" when I had a matching set of bias ply Bridgestone Battlax's mounted up in stock sizes.

The first time I mounted up a 110 on the front (it was a radial) I went through the same experience as you - I thought something was wrong with the bike. So I checked the same things you did based on info I found on COG - steering head bearing adjustment, motor mounts, pressure settings, etc - and they all checked out. So I decided to to just ride the bike and get used to it. After the new tires got broken in the bike didn't feel as "unstable" as it had. You say you've only got 150 miles on your new tires - they aren't even broken in yet. I think you need to put more miles on your bike and see if things change.

Another thing to re-iterate is the effect that huge fairing has on the handling of the bike at speed. Cross winds and the vehicle(s) you are following definitely impact handling characteristics. I put a Cee Bailey windscreen on mine and this helped minimize those impacts. YMMV.
 
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm going to continuing testing and loosening up my steering bearing adjustment in 1/8 turn increments until I end up too loose and see how that works out. I've only had time to do short 30-minute rides a couple evenings a week here lately, so I haven't had time to do some proper test-and tune (between work being busy, and my wife being really busy, so I'm with our small kids most evenings). On the plus side, I am getting pretty efficient at adjusting the steering bearings. I can do it in 15 min start to stop, including removing and reinstalling the tank, and torqueing all the bolts to spec.

I do have a trip to Minneapolis at the beginning of next week (about 420 miles one-way) that I was planning to take it on, but I'd like to get more confidence it won't be a frightening day each direction gripping the bars and weaving down the road. If I can get a few more short rides around home where I feel comfortable, I think I'll go for it, otherwise I'll take the 600, or (I hope not) my car.

This has certainly been a learning experience, which I don't mind. So much on the C10 is familiar from my other Kawasakis of the same era, I expected it to feel similar, or even tamer due to the size and weight. But, I guess what I've been used to on my 600 with bias-plies (and an oversized front tire), which may not be a good reference point. The Avons on the C10 now are my first experience with radial motorcycle tires.
 
Check your steering head bearings and tightness. Section 13 in the service manual.
 
Sorry if you did this but I didn’t see it.
Did you replace the bearings in the wheels?
Could be giving you issues.
Front tire balanced?
If you didn’t do the tires yourself, it’s simple enough to check. Take the front wheel off and suspend it between to jack stands or cinder blocks. Place a rod or axle thru and see if it returns to the same spot.
 
Well, it appears I've finally solved the problem. The steering head bearings were too tight. I tried loosening them in successive 1/8 increments, and after the 2nd round, it rides amazing now. The castle nut is basically finger-tight before torqueing the top triple clamp down onto it. I took it on an 80-mile ride today for a work meeting, including a highway stretch up to 90mph, and it felt smooth and stable. I even followed some semis and allowed some to pass me, and while the wind buffeting is noticeable, it doesn't feel unnerving anymore. I'm pretty sure it feels more composed now in wind than my 600 does.

So, thanks for the patient advice and emotional support through this experience. I definitely learned some things, and also addressed some things on the bike that weren't the cause, but probably still were important (loose motor mount bolts, slightly worn steering bearings, etc).

I think what had me so stumped is that I didn't notice anything until the new tires, and then after I replaced the steering head bearings, I had them set much looser than the original ones were. Since I hadn't notice any issue with the original (very tight) bearings with the original tires, I did not expect that new bearings set looser would still be an issue, especially when there was no real noticeable drag on the bars. Plus, some of the other past threads about requiring some preload gave me the impression that I was erring on the loose side, rather than too tight. It seems that it is really sensitive to any bearing preload, perhaps due to the narrow front tire, and aggressive profile of the Avons?

So, my theory is that the original tires were more forgiving than my fresh Avons (perhaps partly from some wear, and the 120/70 front, rather than the 110/80 I have now), which is why I didn't notice anything unusual until getting the new tires. Now that it's loosened up enough (still no play), the "twitchy" feeling is pretty much gone, and although the countersteering effort is minimal, it feels quite natural. I'm now going to wish for easier steering response on my 600 every time I ride it, haha (although that bike is hampered by tire size availability which limits options).

So, rambling aside, I'm finally really getting to enjoy this bike. In hindsight, I might have gone for the 120/70 size front, but the 110/80 feels good enough for my taste now. The handling (above 5mph, anyway) is a lot more light and nimble than I would expect for a bike this weight. Like I said, it feels quicker and sharper than my 600 that weighs 450lbs. Well, except for pushing it around the garage. There's no hiding the weight in that situation.
 
Figured I would share a celebratory photo of the bike after it's happy ride today.

I still have some work planned (tip-over bars, something different with the windshield, etc), but now I'm finally confident in taking it on some long trips. It runs and rides amazing. The power delivery is so smooth. I didn't even expect it to run this well after doing full carb work, but it idles almost as smooth as a modern fuel-injected bike.

1000005628.jpg
 
I have the same year Connie with Avon Spirit tires, except my front is 120/70. I also noticed a small wobble at speed, especially on windy days. I haven't done any adjustment to the stem head bearings. What I ended up doing was experiment with the front fork preload and also set the rear shock preload to 3. Having Sonic straight fork springs installed many years ago (progressive springs are OEM and thought to be too soft for the weight of the bike) I tightened the front adjusters over a period of months until the preload sag is about an inch. The result was that wobble is mostly gone, however on strong side winds or traveling in the wake of big semis, I can get a slight wobble. I also have a rear top case which is probably catching the wind and contributing to any wobble.

I notice you may have the OEM windshield which has a significant upturn at the top edge which is great for catching the wind;) so many owners have either cut down the top edge or get an aftermarket version like Cee Bailey's which I did.

Glad you got your bike issue resolved. Ride safe.
Dennis
 
I have the same year Connie with Avon Spirit tires, except my front is 120/70. I also noticed a small wobble at speed, especially on windy days. I haven't done any adjustment to the stem head bearings. What I ended up doing was experiment with the front fork preload and also set the rear shock preload to 3. Having Sonic straight fork springs installed many years ago (progressive springs are OEM and thought to be too soft for the weight of the bike) I tightened the front adjusters over a period of months until the preload sag is about an inch. The result was that wobble is mostly gone, however on strong side winds or traveling in the wake of big semis, I can get a slight wobble. I also have a rear top case which is probably catching the wind and contributing to any wobble.

I notice you may have the OEM windshield which has a significant upturn at the top edge which is great for catching the wind;) so many owners have either cut down the top edge or get an aftermarket version like Cee Bailey's which I did.

Glad you got your bike issue resolved. Ride safe.
Dennis
Thanks for the tips. My bike came with a Hagon shock with adjustable hydraulic preload. It gives me an adjustment range of about 1" to 1.75" static sag solo. Just a couple weeks ago I installed Racetech emulators and 0.90kg/mm straight-weight fork springs and 15W oil. They didn't change my stability issue, but they are so much nicer. Bumps are less harsh, and no more excessive brake dive. I did the same mod on my ZX600-C previously and was amazed at the difference. I used the yellow emulator springs at 2 turns of preload, but I might try the softer blue ones if I am motivated to pull the caps and make an oily mess. On this bike, I wouldn't mind it being a touch more compliant.

Yeah, I'm still experimenting with windscreens. The one in this photo is actually an aftermarket one that came in the spare parts box with the bike, but 18.5" tall with a lip at the top. I think this is about what an OEM one is? The bike came installed with the same model shield, but cut down below the lip to about 16" tall. I also picked up a Rifle unit on eBay, which came with a 17" tall screen, for a total height of 23".

The 16" cut-down shield is pretty calm, but my helmet is in the wind stream. The 18.5" with the lip pushes the wind up over, but it's noisy with quite a bit of buffeting. I can see over both them, which is what I prefer. The Rifle with 17" screen is calm and keeps my helmet completely out of the wind, but the top is right at eye level, which drives me crazy.

I got some plain polycarbonate from the hardware store the other day and plan to make a shorter screen for the Rifle. I think I will start with something in the 12 or 13" height, which with the Rifle base should be about as high as I would like to still see over well.

My previous bikes (and current other bike) have been smaller Ninjas with tiny windshields that just being the wind up to about chest level. I've always been accustomed to bring mostly out in the wind, but since the Connie already has such good wind protection elsewhere, I figure I might as well try to get that up top as well. Provided I can still see over the top.

I may try something adjustable at some point (others have offered some good suggestions), but I'll see where I get with the Rifle and a fixed size first. The Madstad looks like a really practical solution, but I am not a huge fan of the appearance. Also not sold new anymore.
 
This is my Connie with the OEM windshield cut down. I use it in the summer to get some cooling breeze on me. Otherwise I have the Cee Bailey's windshield for cooler weather. Picture doesn't show the rear top box previously mentioned.
DennisIMG_0022.jpg
 
This is my Connie with the OEM windshield cut down. I use it in the summer to get some cooling breeze on me. Otherwise I have the Cee Bailey's windshield for cooler weather. Picture doesn't show the rear top box previously mentioned.
DennisView attachment 38704
BTW, I see a lot of familiar farkles on your bike. Fender extender, tank bra, and a light bar like I have. I would do a double-take if I saw you out on the road, haha!
 
When you had your wobble issues you mentioned, was that with the above windshield or the prior windshield with the lip? There are many issues that affect ride quality. So my strategy has been to isolate one adjustment at a time and after ride testing over a period of time I will know if that adjustment improved the ride. I believe one of the issues that may contribute to any wobble are aerodynamics. Hence I didn't like the significant upturn in the OEM shield. It may be great for the rider and any passenger but what does it do to the aerodynamics of the bike itself? In that regard, you have a significant backrest which is catching the wind. Mine is an OEM version which sits lower. One option for you is to remove the backrest for a while and see if you notice any improvement but only do one adjustment (its removal) at a time to judge the new ride. If you don't notice any difference then you can move to another adjustment.
Dennis
 
When you had your wobble issues you mentioned, was that with the above windshield or the prior windshield with the lip? There are many issues that affect ride quality. So my strategy has been to isolate one adjustment at a time and after ride testing over a period of time I will know if that adjustment improved the ride. I believe one of the issues that may contribute to any wobble are aerodynamics. Hence I didn't like the significant upturn in the OEM shield. It may be great for the rider and any passenger but what does it do to the aerodynamics of the bike itself? In that regard, you have a significant backrest which is catching the wind. Mine is an OEM version which sits lower. One option for you is to remove the backrest for a while and see if you notice any improvement but only do one adjustment (its removal) at a time to judge the new ride. If you don't notice any difference then you can move to another adjustment.
Dennis
I tried each of my 3 shields during my testing and didn't really notice a difference in stability. It was definitely the preload on the bearings. I did try to change only one or two things at a time.

I can see how different shields or other aerodynamic aspects can affect wind buffeting, though. I'll try to be perceptive of that stuff as I ride the bike more.

Yeah, that's a Ronnie Lyons backrest. It's the tallest I've seen for these bikes, but my wife likes something that gives her confidence of not falling off the back. I will probably only have it on when she's riding with me frequently. It comes on and off pretty easily.

I have a Corbin seat, which accepts their backrest, which are really fast to take on and off. I haven't brought myself to pay the steep price they charge for one yet, though.
 
Sorry, seen you solved it and I did not read the whole thread but in the past stabilizing issue also came from the absence of a vent in the windshield. True, my wobbly issues were at speed on the highway and usually passing others, but, when I got my Cee Bailey's shield with the vent, it all went away. BTW, I also have a high backrest like you/
 
Sorry, seen you solved it and I did not read the whole thread but in the past stabilizing issue also came from the absence of a vent in the windshield. True, my wobbly issues were at speed on the highway and usually passing others, but, when I got my Cee Bailey's shield with the vent, it all went away. BTW, I also have a high backrest like you/
Yeah, I switched back to my cut-down shield and went on a 100-mile ride with a buddy this morning. It was great! It feels like smooth airflow, with my helmet up in the airstream.

I may try one of the cheap adjustable extensions ($25 on eBay) just for kicks, but I'm also planning to make my own clear shield for the Rifle base that sits just low enough for me to see over.
 
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