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Starter won't crank, indicator ligt dim when ignition on, battery voltage fine. ???

B

BrianG

Member
Member
Yesterday I started my '95 C10 three times. The first two were for relocating it while replace grips. The third time was to go for a ride. I stopped for fuel thirty minutes later. Bike wouldn't start...not enough juice to crank the starter...barely a glow from the indicator lights when the ignition was on. An attempt to jump start if from a car failed, never enough power for the starter to crank. Battery connections were tight. I unplugged/replugged the connections at the fuse block. I ended up trailering it home. The battery is now out of the bike. It's voltage reads 12.2v. My NOCO genius 2 charger shows it fully charged. Where do I look now?
 
Does the headlight come on when you bump the starter? Does it try to crank at all?
 
No crank. The oil and neutral indicators barely glow so I'm not surprised that there isn't enough power to crank it. During the jump start attempt those indicators were bright but I only ever heard the slightest of grunts from the starter.

I don't know about the headlight. Battery is out at the moment so can't go check it.
 
BrianG said:
No crank. The oil and neutral indicators barely glow so I'm not surprised that there isn't enough power to crank it. During the jump start attempt those indicators were bright but I only ever heard the slightest of grunts from the starter.

I don't know about the headlight. Battery is out at the moment so can't go check it.
Click to expand...
After it is fully charged, take it somewhere and have it load tested.
 
Battery is back in. No headlight. The indicator lights are lit but not as bright as 'normal'. On start button push I heard a brief electrical, low pitched brzzt sound that appeared to come from the junction box area. Starter relay perhaps? If so, I don't understand why all other symptoms indicate low battery. Of course, I don't understand much about this stuff.

Bud, I'll pull it back out and head to the nearby AutoZone and have it tested.
 
If it passes the load test, then I would be looking at the jbox. In some cases, you can smack it and get it going or at least notice a change. The relays in the box can fail or need to be resoldered. Larry Buck rebuilds them. HTH
 
Battery is bad per AutoZone. Thanks Bud for the prompt to have it checked. I have never had one fail like this. Normally there are clues before failure but to have one start the bike fine and then be dead following 30 minutes of riding is an new one for me. I hope a replacement will be all that it takes to solve the problem.
 
Battery is bad per AutoZone. Thanks Bud for the prompt to have it checked. I have never had one fail like this. Normally there are clues before failure but to have one start the bike fine and then be dead following 30 minutes of riding is an new one for me. I hope a replacement will be all that it takes to solve the problem.
Click to expand...

You should also check your charging system, sometimes a bad battery is a symptom of a bigger problem.
 
Unfortunately, I have limited mechanical knowledge. I have a multi-meter so can check voltage at the battery during idle but anything more than that is beyond my comfort level. I have not found a motorcycle service company nearby that will work on her since she passed the 20 year age so I've been muddling through doing maintenance and service myself. I think she would be gone now if I had come across an easy way to dispose of her even though I still enjoy the heck out of riding her.
 
BrianG said:
Unfortunately, I have limited mechanical knowledge. I have a multi-meter so can check voltage at the battery during idle but anything more than that is beyond my comfort level. I have not found a motorcycle service company nearby that will work on her since she passed the 20 year age so I've been muddling through doing maintenance and service myself. I think she would be gone now if I had come across an easy way to dispose of her even though I still enjoy the heck out of riding her.
Click to expand...
One thing you can do with the charging system is disconnect the alternator and make sure the terminals are clean. Those have been known to get hot and melt because of corrosion. Disconnect and reconnect multiple times will help scrub the connection.
 
Low voltage indicated by relay chatter.
How old is the battery?
Mileage on your bike?
When the starter button is pressed, what is the voltage?

My phone is listed below.

Larry
 
Thanks Bud. I'll check the alternator connector when I get back to her with a new battery. I am assuming that connector will be obvious.
 
lrbuck said:
Low voltage indicated by relay chatter.
How old is the battery?
Mileage on your bike?
When the starter button is pressed, what is the voltage?

My phone is listed below.

Larry
Click to expand...
Battery is bad per AutoZone. Thanks Bud for the prompt to have it checked. I have never had one fail like this. Normally there are clues before failure but to have one start the bike fine and then be dead following 30 minutes of riding is an new one for me. I hope a replacement will be all that it takes to solve the problem.
 
BrianG said:
Unfortunately, I have limited mechanical knowledge. I have a multi-meter so can check voltage at the battery during idle but anything more than that is beyond my comfort level. I have not found a motorcycle service company nearby that will work on her since she passed the 20 year age so I've been muddling through doing maintenance and service myself. I think she would be gone now if I had come across an easy way to dispose of her even though I still enjoy the heck out of riding her.
Click to expand...

Brian,
you can verify the over health of your charging system with your multimeter
Connect it to battery with the motor off.
Should read approx 12.5 volts.
Start motor and at idle up slightly, meter should read approx 13.5v no higher than 14v
If you get a different reading, you will need to do some troubleshooting. A factory manual can walk you thru the basic steps
Bob
 
Thanks @ONOBob. I will do the voltage test you suggest once I get the new battery installed. The service manual is rarely of help to me. It mostly feel written in a foreign language. I spent some time with it trying to figure out where the alternator connector was that @Bud mentioned, without success. Hopefully I can trace the wires and figure it out.
 
BrianG said:
Thanks @ONOBob. I will do the voltage test you suggest once I get the new battery installed. The service manual is rarely of help to me. It mostly feel written in a foreign language. I spent some time with it trying to figure out where the alternator connector was that @Bud mentioned, without success. Hopefully I can trace the wires and figure it out.
Click to expand...
Just follow the lead coming out of the alternator and you'll find it. It should be under the air box.
 
Brian,
After you get the battery in you can call or FaceTime me and we’ll try to do some troubleshooting.
I’m in COG directory book, if you don’t have that yet message me on here with your mobile number
Bob
 
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Thanks Bob. The battery is due to arrive on Mon or Tues next week. I will get it charged and installed and see if the bike starts. If it does, I'll look into the charging system checks provided here, keeping your offer of assistance in mind should I become totally befuddled.
 
Guys, I woke up in the middle of the night last night with the following question:
Why did the failed battery prevent a jump start? Was it absorbing most of the power coming thru the cables? The jump source was a Subaru Outback revved up slightly.
 
I could always be wrong but I would blame it on the internal short in the battery.
 
Update...
My new battery arrived yesterday in time for me to get it charged using a NOCO Genius 2 charger/maintainer.
I installed the battery this morning.
The bike started right up.
Battery voltage with motor off: 12.90v
Battery voltage when bike was at 1500 rpm: switched back and for between 14.39v-14.40v @ONOBob said: "no higher than 14v'.
Should I be concerned?

@Bud, I found the alternator connector. No meltage. I gave them a spray of contact cleaner then plugged/unplugged several times..
 
Brian,
Correction that spec / image is for my old Kawasaki KZ650.

This from the Clymer manual for the Concours
 

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I think you’re going through be ok at 14.4v
Just wanted to make sure I was giving you accurate information

Sorry for the confusion. I’m jumping back and forth between my old vintage bike and the Concours and I grabbed the wrong manual

I’ll check the charging volts on my Concours when I get back to where it’s at Wednesday

Bob
 
BrianG said:
Guys, I woke up in the middle of the night last night with the following question:
Why did the failed battery prevent a jump start? Was it absorbing most of the power coming thru the cables? The jump source was a Subaru Outback revved up slightly.
Click to expand...
I see no one replied to this yet, but don't do this. If you're going to jump from another larger vehicle, just let it idle, dont rev it. Your bike needs a stream of power in this scenario, by revving it up you're giving it a tidal wave. Your voltage may have been fine, but your amperage is obviously dead. You need both to start and run. Amperage to start, voltage to run. Last, look for batteries with good warranty. Batteries plus has the best power sports battery warranty, at 2 years for a duracell AGM, and 3 years for a lithium unit. I only go where there is warranty. Autozone/oreilly/etc they will sell you a powersports battery, but it will likely only have a 90 day warranty.
 
ONOBob said:
I think you’re going through be ok at 14.4v
Just wanted to make sure I was giving you accurate information

Sorry for the confusion. I’m jumping back and forth between my old vintage bike and the Concours and I grabbed the wrong manual

I’ll check the charging volts on my Concours when I get back to where it’s at Wednesday

Bob
Click to expand...
Thanks Bob. I just found that spec chart in the Kawasaki Service Manual. It is identical to your image.
Alternator:
Rated output: 28.6 A @6,000 rpm, 14 V
Charging output: 13.5 v @4,000 rpm (with headlight switch on if applicable).

My check indicated 14.4 V at 1,500 rpm with headlight on. I will check it again once the rain moves out of here which may not be for a couple of days. The rain rate on my Davis weather stations currently says "Its raining cats n dogs". Somebody had a sense of humor when they programmed that.
 
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