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PSA from the other forum:

I found this video last week that explains how a car key as a passive fob is done and shows it working. No KDS required as it clones the RFID chip.
  Unfortunately, he doesn't say which key blank to use and didn't respond to that question in the comments. I've tried contacting him but no luck. I've gone to 2 Denver area Ace Hardwares in the last week and after explaining to the clerks what it was all about they both checked with someone more experienced or a manager and was told, "no, we can't do it". Didn't even try to help find a key blank that would work. Maybe someone else can find a more helpful "think outside the box" Ace Hardware. I've got one more to try up in the foothills that has been more helpful in the past. If I get up there this weekend I'll see if they will try.
I had a qualified locksmith clone my one & only fob a while ago.  He used an Ilco TK100 which looks like the one in the vid.
Thanks for the suggestion MoB.  Unfortunately, the items I checked have not resulted in a solution.  I opened up the left switch housing, dry inside (did blow it out anyway).  Checked the plugs in/out of the ECU and other components under the seat, also dry but reseated them just in case.  Checked the connectors under the dash area and reseated those.  Looked under the tank-top panel at the relays, all were dry, checked the plugs, and also cycled the key on and off to see if they clicked (some did some did not).  I did get a suggestion to try removing a particular fuses to see if it has an impact and I will try that tonight. 

I did notice when looking it over this past weekend that when the bike is off if I pull the left trigger finger switch (the one that allows you to toggle through the display) that the problematic oil and neutral lights go out.  The lights come back on when I release the switch.  The switch works normally when the bike is on and the oil/neutral lights also work normally when the bike is running. 

Also, there appears to be little drain on the battery when off....after a couple days of not running, the bike started right up and continues to run normally.  I also have a Rostra on the bike and at first thought maybe the switch had shorted....but that continues to operate perfectly. 

This one is a head scratcher and unless I can sort it out with out much more effort, I will be bringing it into the dealer to have them do some troubleshooting as the bike is still under GTPP.

Thanks for any other suggestions.
Buck Sport Touring / Non Concours Junction Boxes
« Last post by Larry_Buck_FL on Today at 01:44:37 pm »
I now have the cabability to rebuild junction boxes from Kawasaki Ninja and Vulcan motorcycles.  Tell a friend. TIA.
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: Seat Suggestions
« Last post by strum on Today at 01:03:01 pm »
I tried the low gel for a short while and found it to hard for any distance riding. Now I'm using the touring seat which I'm very happy with. No complaints at all with it.
{Not knowing the size of the C-10 forks}, will these work in ours?

Ride safe, Ted

Alternative damper valves:

I installed them in a Suzuki SV650 which also has 41mm forks, worked fine.
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: best oil filter?
« Last post by RoadKillHeaven on Today at 12:28:46 pm »
I work in transportation. We mainly run L96 6.0 Chevy and 6.8 2 valve Ford V10 with LPG conversion by Roush. 
Recently we've lost 3 L96 engines to defective oil filters. Filtering media was found to be ok. What had failed was the gasket. As we discovered, the density of material was not consistent on several filter gaskets we've tested from the batch we got from NAPA(Wix).
When tightened properly, rubber gasket is not supposed to compress beyond its minimal thickness and maintain proper seal between filter housing and engine oil cooler adapter. In the case of gaskets that failed, we fond thickness variance from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch compressed. The defect in gaskets caused oil loss under normal operational conditions, i.e driving. Gasket did not leak with an engine at idle.
Since then NAPA filters have been put on hold. We've returned to using OE filters in both Chevy and Ford engines.

The purpose of my story is to make people aware of even a solid oil filter, from reputable manufacturer, could succumb to defects.   
Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: 1999zg1000
« Last post by connie_rider on Today at 12:25:38 pm »
Oops:   I agree about not doing the Free Power mod now. Would add another variable at this stage..
But, I would check the connections at the battery for corrosion.

 I mis-spoke when I typed it.
  My thought was to do the mod after the bike was up and running.
      (I'll go back and reword it.)

Ride safe, Ted
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: best oil filter?
« Last post by Syxxphive on Today at 11:50:53 am »
Found this on

There is no such thing as a "motorcycle" oil filter or a "car" oil filter; they just aren't that "specific". To answer the OP's question directly: there is no difference between car and motorcycle fitlers. Oil filters are oil filters, period. There are different brands and grades and types of construction. But there is no designation for M/C vs. a car.

Filters are designed around specific parameters that the engine manufacturer dictates for a desired result in filtration efficiency, flow, pressure differential, construction demands and size requirements.

"Motorcycle" filters often seem "special" because they are viewed as a replacment part to a luxury item. After all, no one NEEDS a motorcycle, but several of us (including me) have one. It's the perception of the market that we're willing to pay more for a high-end product to protect our baby, but the reality is that spec's are spec's, and as long as a filter meets those specs, then it's available for any given application. If there is anything special about a motorcycle oil filter at a motorcycle shop, it's the price, in that they can often successfully charge their customers more money for a filter that you can get a Napa or AAP for a lot less.

Let me give you a very good example. Go to and search for their 51348 filter, and look at the "all applications" link. You'll see that it goes on everything from lawn mowers with air-cooled Koehler engines, to small diesel engines, to Harley-Davidson motorcycles, to Chrysler inline four and V-6 gas engines, to Toyota V-6 and V-8 engines up to 4.7L.

Another example is Wix 51365. It fits all kinds of motorcycles, both air and liquid cooled. But it also fits Infiniti car engines, John Deere tractors with both gas and diesel engines, Komatsu excavators with diesel engines, and a large smattering of Mitsubishi, Mazda, Nissan and Subaru applications.

How about your CBR600F4 oil filter? Wix specifically states to use #51358, which fits a huge list of Honda and Kawasaki applications. It's used on Kia cars and Polaris ATV's. It also is used on a large list of Komatsu construction equipment, and many Kubota products, with both gasoline and diesel engines. Your CBR probably has a redline of greater than 10,000 rpm, and yet this same filter is also used on a diesel engine that runs only 2500 rpm. In fact, the specs for this filter are pretty mundane. Typical flow and pressure ranges. In fact, it's BETA ratio is less than stellar; 2/20 at 13/52? Not exactly a super-fine filter by any definition. And yet this little filter is on hundreds of thousands of engines around the world. And all those engines run for the equivilant of millions of miles.

Interestingly, if you cross reference the Purolator L14610 into Wix, you don't get the 51358 that is suggested for your application by Wix. The x-ref for the L14610 is 51356, which fits (again) a huge list of equipment, including marine engines! It just goes to show you that filter makers take the criteria (specs) of an OEM filter, and then apply one or more suggestions for that application. It shows that interpretations are sometimes different. Different is not wrong! It's just not the same. That's an important concept to understand. Further, since engine OEMs don't typically make their own filters, they just find a filter that meets their particular needs in a catalog (such as from Wix, Purolator, Champion, etc), and then spec that into the BOM (bill of materials) for the engine production plans.

Start to get the point? Filters are not typically designed "only" for a motorcycle. Companies such as Wix and Purolator look for applications that they can meet with a broad product line and then recomend one or more of their offerings to meet a particular flow, construction, filtration and size packaging requirement.

Last edited by dnewton3; 06/10/08 05:36 AM.
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: Seat Suggestions
« Last post by Bigman on Today at 10:43:07 am »
Has anyone on here had trouble with Seth Lamm? I sent a seat to him in May, and it's almost October and have not gotten my seat back. I did receive it initially, and had to send it out for a readjustment. When I have called him and told him my name he would say have to give me more accurate information then that. He seemed really cocky and rude.
He told me on August 28th that the week of the 3rd of September he would call me to get it readjusted and sent back out that week. He said that I would be at the top of the list. Well 2 weeks went by and I didn't hear anything from him.
So I called him again...not rude to him, I told him my name and what bike it was for, and he says, again you have to be more accurate with your information. I have to admit I was pretty fed up with what came across as a very smart comment at this point.
    I then told him that since your such a stickler on accurate information, why haven't you gotten back in touch with me about getting the seat adjusted when you said you would? I then told him, if I was the next seat in line, why are you telling me I need to be more specific about what I am inquiring about....shouldn't that name be familiar to you that's at the top of the list??? He actually hung up on me! I have called and left a message since....and was very nice, and that was a week ago and no response. I have read nothing but good reviews on Seth, and I don't consider myself to be hard to get along with, but I must confess that this is putting a terrible taste in my mouth right now. Any suggestions of what to do?
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