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Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: Lighting Pulsation
« Last post by Redbarron on Yesterday at 11:18:21 pm »
Well I tested the Battery as well as the starting and charging system this morning from a cold dead start.

This is when it normally happens everything tested perfect.  The only thing I can think of is that ground side has an issue despite the ground modification and the leads at the coil are in good nick.

One would think that if this was a case of a weak pole or bad diode that the charging system test would reveal it.

I am going to jump out the ground at the headlamp direct to the battery - and see what happens! If their is no change then that eliminates the ground as the culprit .

Then it is back to the battery if little to no AC ripple voltage is detected on the DC side then it's a battery issue.

I was concerned that at certain points in the charging system test the voltage indicated a high of 15.33

The battery is an 8 year old sealed lead acid type so, it is not to far to say that one or more of the plates may be changing state of conductance while vibrating.

Just food for thought!!

Thanks Kids :beerchug:
South Central Events / Re: "Final Fall Fling" Ride
« Last post by Jim Snyder on Yesterday at 10:49:55 pm »
Well there appears to be some interest in this ride within the NC group. It snowed a bit here yesterday, and was 18 deg F this AM, so yes the weather is kind of unpredictable. Plus I need to start sitting in a tree, and get the deal done.

Yes, have Ted put a deer scrape in the motel parking lot, but maybe tell him to "freshen"  it after sundown, so he does not end up in the clink.

If the weather is somewhat reasonable, there will be a few of us coming down.
Let me know if I need to block off more rooms.
South Central Events / Re: "Final Fall Fling" Ride
« Last post by Jim Snyder on Yesterday at 10:48:39 pm »
I'm in...see you all there! :whoo:
Did you call and reserve one of the rooms?
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: KIPASS
« Last post by Lee on Yesterday at 10:41:44 pm »
In light of my good news from the dealership. I’ll offer up for sale my Kawasaki diagnostic system 3. With cables and disc   $350
I adjusted mine last time myself.  Actually I got to the bearings and cleaned and re-greased them.  I tightened it till there was no play and some resistance to movement back and forth.  That was not enough.  I had head shake.  I went back in and it still seemed tight to me but I put as much force as I could with a 6 inch wrench I had  I mean I tried to make it to tight but knew it would not be that bad with such a short wrench.  That was perfect.   

To bad someone failed to return the floating crown socket loaner tool.  It would be nice to put an actual torque wrench on it.

yeah, it's a bummer one thief has to ruin it for every COG member like that, but then, it was silly for people to trust someone that has no historic backround to fall upon..
It's a "member thing"...  I have a tool, that was sent to me, and often times thought about sharing it... but this one example keeps it sitting in my toolbox, where it will be when I need to use it.

as for the torque thing, when cleaning and re greasing these bearings, during the re-install it only takes 17 ft/lbs on the nut, (so if you were using a 6" long wrench, you would be pulling about 34 pounds on it..).. so using a 'spanner' type wrench like we used on the C10, and adding in a simple fishing scale, you can get very accurate torque, simply slip a 12" long pipe with a hole in the end 12" from the center of the 'nut', and pull with the scale to the correct weight... easy...
I have a scale I've used for years, and personally prefer this method over a 'torque wrench' as it is very precise..... simple is better sometimes...


I added the page from the FSM below, and this is actually the way Kaw specs these adjustments anyway...
South Central Events / Re: "Final Fall Fling" Ride
« Last post by scooter trash on Yesterday at 10:36:38 pm »
I'm in...see you all there! :whoo:
I sure did read your post. Did you read mine, or just ignore the part about not wading through everything? Or do you just need someone to rub your mad spot?

I’d rather do a one-stop shop and give someone a few bucks for making the effort to get it all together. If that isn’t you, no biggie.
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: KIPASS
« Last post by MAN OF BLUES on Yesterday at 09:48:11 pm »

I have bought an emergency fob it should be here soon. I called a local Kawasaki dealer and they said they could program it for $58 with the bike there.

That seems like the best option. I will check back with them after it arrives and the bike is ready to ride home.
I mounted the headlight. I still need to mount the gauge cluster and some front flashers and right handlebar. It should be good to ride then

Thanks for all the help.
Rubber side down! 

21175-0256 FOB

emergency fob.... hmmmm... what part number would that be?

So’s what one’a you guys oughta do is figure out the chip and key to use, and then sell the combo to those of us that don’t feel like wading through all of the threads.

I wouldn’t need the key for anything other than a chip holder, as I have the knob mod for the bags, the givi key stays in the trunk until I leave the bike, and the stove knob never gets taken out of the ignition.

It would be nice to carry that as a spare when 1000 miles away from home.

did you read the posts I made above?
I clearly gave out the part numbers, and links to their purchase points....
pretty simple to buy the blaank, and the chip...

the toughest part is finding someone in your area, to clone the chip to your existing chip, using a JMA EVO programmer. But still, I linked those people also...
drain the tank (remove it after siphoning as much as possible out) and dump the rest into a big funnel and gascan from the filler hole...
Invert the tank, and remove the gage sending unit, it may have gotten wedged when you hit it with the hose, or arm got bent, but the arm is a simple piece of stiff wire, with a float on the end, like a toilet valve float.. and easily bent "back".
As to a 'measurement' for re-bending, I can't say, maybe look at photo's, or the FSM, for a picture of "approximatly how it looks 'new' and un bent.

best of luck
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