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Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: Home made tip over bars
« Last post by Nosmo on Today at 06:20:52 am »
I have the tip-over bars that Murph (www.murphskits.com) used to sell.  I have used them and they work very well.  Well worth the price.  They let the bike go only so far over, so you can lift it back up with only a few pulled muscles and strained tendons.  The design has to consider not only the strength of the material, but also the dimensions and shape.  If you make something that has the ground-contact point in the wrong place, or that fails and bends and lets the bike weight go "over center", it will act as a fulcrum that you'll need to overcome to get her back upright.  If it lets that happen, you better have a real strong friend with you to lift, because unless you are Ahhnold's big brother you ain't going to do it yourself. This bike has a very high CG and with a full fuel tank, it's a bitch and a half.

As for footpegs on the tip-over bars, yes, I put my highway pegs there, too.  I am 6"1' with long legs and I have a hard time getting my legs to bend around the fairing and put my feet on the highway pegs.  The fairing stick out pretty far and digs into your calf. 

Here's mine in the basement, the weight is on the tip-over bar and the saddle bag.  These bars stop it before it get horizontal (or worse) so you can still wrestle it back up.

pics below

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Southwest Events / Re: OCT and NOV overnighters?
« Last post by captainmarko on Today at 06:11:38 am »
Confirmation sent.

Public shaming and threats to follow.
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Only if you are wearing stretch pants, and writing bad checks...
 >:D
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Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: foot pegs
« Last post by The Wizard on Today at 05:50:55 am »
And you can get them from "The Wizard",he has both L&R pegs and brackets. Both sides ordered and mailed together $125.00+postage(about $7>12.00).I can mail them out tomorrow,if I wake up with address as go ahead.    The Wizard
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I do not have tip over bars installed, wish I did, but I have no income currently...
On my buy list...
But that said, I would not make my own, even tho I could,  used ones pop up for sale frequently enough that it isn't worth the effort, or material cost for me to do so. Check ebay.
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Murphs valve kit is a complete and comprehensive group of everything needed as "parts" short of the shims, which you must measure and determine during the process.
It was assembled from input by at least a half dozen of us "hands on" C14 owners, who have actually done this inspection and adjustment, it is well worth the price, as its a "one stop shopping" thing, saving time, and shipping, and possible dissapointing "back ordered" items found when trying to multi source from various places.

For your shim needs, visit your nearest Honda dealer, or Kaw dealer, both have the correct increments and half sizes needed, and ask them about "swapping shims" with you to save some expense... don't fall into the "Hot Cams" shim kit ploy, 90% of the contents on those "kits" will never be used by you, or needed.. buy or swap the ones you specifically need, as costs add up fast.

Best of luck,
Oh, you will be needing a 1/4" torque wrench, and the associated hex bits, also some larger hex bits for removing frame stiffeners...
Make sure before using any hex bits, you use a bench grinder, or belt sander, to grind the tips on them square to the shank, and remove the ends to completely remove any of the chamferred area on the tips, you want the bits to be sharp and fully hex all the way to the tip, without the chamfer, this prevents rounding out the internal hexes on the bolts.

Take pictures as you go along, before removing stuff, and during the process, to aleviate questions on "how was that supposed to fit" when reassembling.

Most of all, read and study that FSM, and make printed pages to have handy during the process...

Record every measurement during the initial inspection.

And most importantly, come and ask.questions as they arise...don't wing it, ask and people will explain.

Best of luck
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Yes they are. :)
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Never tried to bend black iron pipe, but I would think you better have a lot of force to bend it.  Just never saw that as bendable.  Still waiting on MOB to chime in on this.

No
It will fracture.
As for rigid conduit, I don't know where you are getting the dimensional data, but as an engineer that spec'd this stuff out daily, I say you are off on the wall thickness..

As for using threaded fittings, that's a possibility, as you could use elbows and flanges and such, but in the end, sitting in a parking lot, we would all point and snicker, because it would look silly.
Let's face it, if there were cheaper options, to create an asthetically pleasing, and functional set.... don't you think they would be on the market...?
Or you would see a bazillion people showing in depth, online, how they made crash bars for $49...……???????


Hey, I'm done trying to talk you out of whatever you wish to do... make them, and show everyone.

 :great: :great: :great:
  the wall thickness is 0.107  according to the steel pipe institute. It may be that it would not work out to be artistically pleasing and I think it needs to look good. So that leaves me with one of two options buy tip over bars  or make tip over bars that are artistically pleasing.
the tip over bars that you have. Where did you buy them? Would you recommend them? Any complaints about them? How did the installation go?
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Never tried to bend black iron pipe, but I would think you better have a lot of force to bend it.  Just never saw that as bendable.  Still waiting on MOB to chime in on this.

No
It will fracture.
As for rigid conduit, I don't know where you are getting the dimensional data, but as an engineer that spec'd this stuff out daily, I say you are off on the wall thickness..

As for using threaded fittings, that's a possibility, as you could use elbows and flanges and such, but in the end, sitting in a parking lot, we would all point and snicker, because it would look silly.
Let's face it, if there were cheaper options, to create an asthetically pleasing, and functional set.... don't you think they would be on the market...?
Or you would see a bazillion people showing in depth, online, how they made crash bars for $49...……???????


Hey, I'm done trying to talk you out of whatever you wish to do... make them, and show everyone.

 :great: :great: :great:
  the wall thickness is 0.107  according to the steel pipe institute. It may be that it would not work out to be artistically pleasing and I think it needs to look good. So that leaves me with one of two options buy tip over bars  or make tip over bars that are artistically pleasing.
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Take pictures they help, You will likely need shims but won't know what size until you measure.  Gasket sealant will be needed too.  Even with pictures I couldn't remember where the bracket that mounted on the Lh pair valve went.  MOB got me straightened out.  Good luck-have fun.
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