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So have a problem with the connie, about 2500 miles ago I noticed my mileage has started to drop about 2 mpg, then about 1500 miles ago it dropped another 2 all the way down to about 34 mpg. So did an oil and filter and it went back up to 37 then 38 for the next 2 tanks but then back down to 34 by the 3rd tank. Then noticed it running very rough one morning like it had a miss and some weird clunking like the front end was loose.

I found the clunking, on the right side the top bolt for the engine to frame had backed out and just sitting there against the fairing. Right I though maybe I was losing ground because of that, I was at work so just shoed it back in for the ride home and sure enough the bike ran fine no miss. Got home and forgot about till the next day while riding to work and the miss was back, but about half way to work it straightened itself out and was running fine again, so yep has to be the bolt and a ground issue. Get off work and still running good but soon at I get home I set about resolving the bolt issue. Next day with a tight bolt runs great to work but on the way home the miss is back?? It stumbled and lurched and was all better after about 5 miles of riding. I got it home and pulled the plugs and cleaned them and found #2 was fouled the next  couple days it rode fine and I put in an order for plugs and stuff to do the valve adjust.

Got the valves done and all the exhaust were out of spec and #2 intake were out a little. All that done and wow the bike was running great! Well it was still not getting good mileage, only 36 for the tank after the valve adjust. Then the next tank was down to 34 and yesterday while going to the gas station it had the miss back, I put seafoam in with the fill up and rode home about 8 miles with the miss still there, and then this morning on the way to work for about the first 15 miles it had the miss then straightened out on it's own again?? It seems to take quite a bit of warming up then the buzzy stumbly miss will go away power will increase at higher RPMs but at lower it still feels weak.

Have not cleaned the air filter so I am sure that is a contributor and will do that, but I am starting to think this is not a carb issue at all which is what I first suspected (bike has 78,200 miles) I think if I pull the plugs I will find #2 fouled again, I did notice the plug wire did not seem as firm of a grip on the plug as #1 and #4. You know how you can kind of feel them click as they slide on the plug, well #2 and #3 don't seem to click so I suspect that may be my problem. Maybe as the bike gets hot enough the plug wires swell and make better contact?? I am broke till Thursday but will order new wires and boots from Murph then and see if that solves the problem. Also gonna look around in my shed and see if I have a set of motorcycle boots and pull the resistor out of on of those and see if it has a better clip on it.

Any thoughts or predictions on this strange problem?
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Bringing this up again to try to get responses.
  Thank you MOB and Funsize for your input.
     MOB; I sent you a PM. (would appreciate assistance with planning)
     Funsize: I agree it's too early for an individual to make a decision to go with us.

We are not looking for a "sign up" to go with us on a bus.
   We are only asking {in general} if folks would be interested in such a plan?
   ie;  Is there any interest in doing a bus tour from the Motel?

Also: Would there be any intertest in riding together to Gettysburg on a specified day?
           {In Texas we did a group ride to the Nimitz museum {with discounts and a special host}

Ride safe, Ted
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Accessories C14 / Re: Handlebars height and angle
« Last post by philipintexas on Today at 02:07:39 pm »
I can tell you from experience, if you get handlebars that allow you to sit upright, you will probably also need a different seat. Sit upright and your butt will slide forward. You need the “straight arms” to hold you from the forward slide.
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If your looking for an easier way to put air in your tire try this.

Accu-gage - Chek A Spare, Valve Extender https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O2S8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gTQPBb85BN39P

JJ


 Correct me if im wrong but if you screw that thing on and check your pressure then unscrew to ride youve not only lost the air inside the tube but also whatever you lost getting it unscrewed. I just dont see how thats helpfull at all. 


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Being of simple mind, I have a thought.
Any air he has, must be in the hoses? (he's not getting any air out, and the air should have migrated up)

So, couldn't he just fully push all the pistons into the caliper's to reverse the fluid?

Ride safe, Ted
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Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: 1999zg1000
« Last post by mnbikeguy on Today at 12:59:54 pm »
John - It's probably going to take some work to get this bike back on the road. Even though stored inside and the gas ran clear there is still a lot that can happen. Seals dry out, gas get gummy in the small ports, brake fluid takes on water, tires rot, etc.
MOB and others are going to ask some very specific questions. Try not to get defensive as they are not trying to question your abilities. They are only trying to get your bike running. It's kind of like going to the Dr. and they ask you for prescription list over and over. Arguing with them about the question won't make a bit of difference. Just answer the question to the best of your ability. If you don't know how to do something just ask. The folks here have seen every possible problem and there is a 100% chance if you give them the info they will help you solve the no start problem.

This has been public service announcement.
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Northwest Events / Re: Bob Rainey's I-Hop ride
« Last post by Grant on Today at 12:54:56 pm »
Well I am waiting  :??: didn't get to go so I want to at least see pictures and hear stories  :great:
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I installed all new floats to keep hydrolock from happening, and it worked fine for awhile... I don’t know what changed.
How do I tell which valve is leaking?

Any small particle or random event can cause a float valve to stick. It only takes one/once to ruin the engine. Overflow tubes are the only positive prevention measure to prevent a hydrolock event. Tubes won't prevent a petcock or float valve event failure, but at least the engine will not be damaged.
Carefully measure your piston heights now.


  Hydrolock test video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W6k3pTdAXw&feature=plcp

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I installed all new floats to keep hydrolock from happening, and it worked fine for awhile... I don’t know what changed.
How do I tell which valve is leaking?

Any small particle or random event can cause a float valve to stick. It only takes one/once to ruin the engine. Overflow tubes are the only positive prevention measure to prevent a hydrolock event. Tubes won't prevent a petcock or float valve event failure, but at least the engine will not be damaged.
Carefully measure your piston heights now.
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After reading through this I am thinking that a backwards bleeder would make this job a lot easier.  There are a few backward bleeds out there  Phoenix comes to mind. These bleeders push up from the calipers to the master taking advantage of the air naturally wanting to migrate up.
Just go to tractor supply and buy the biggest syringe you can find. Use the tubing of your choice. Don't need a fancy bleeder system.
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