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Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: best oil filter?
« Last post by Syxxphive on Today at 11:50:53 am »
Found this on

There is no such thing as a "motorcycle" oil filter or a "car" oil filter; they just aren't that "specific". To answer the OP's question directly: there is no difference between car and motorcycle fitlers. Oil filters are oil filters, period. There are different brands and grades and types of construction. But there is no designation for M/C vs. a car.

Filters are designed around specific parameters that the engine manufacturer dictates for a desired result in filtration efficiency, flow, pressure differential, construction demands and size requirements.

"Motorcycle" filters often seem "special" because they are viewed as a replacment part to a luxury item. After all, no one NEEDS a motorcycle, but several of us (including me) have one. It's the perception of the market that we're willing to pay more for a high-end product to protect our baby, but the reality is that spec's are spec's, and as long as a filter meets those specs, then it's available for any given application. If there is anything special about a motorcycle oil filter at a motorcycle shop, it's the price, in that they can often successfully charge their customers more money for a filter that you can get a Napa or AAP for a lot less.

Let me give you a very good example. Go to and search for their 51348 filter, and look at the "all applications" link. You'll see that it goes on everything from lawn mowers with air-cooled Koehler engines, to small diesel engines, to Harley-Davidson motorcycles, to Chrysler inline four and V-6 gas engines, to Toyota V-6 and V-8 engines up to 4.7L.

Another example is Wix 51365. It fits all kinds of motorcycles, both air and liquid cooled. But it also fits Infiniti car engines, John Deere tractors with both gas and diesel engines, Komatsu excavators with diesel engines, and a large smattering of Mitsubishi, Mazda, Nissan and Subaru applications.

How about your CBR600F4 oil filter? Wix specifically states to use #51358, which fits a huge list of Honda and Kawasaki applications. It's used on Kia cars and Polaris ATV's. It also is used on a large list of Komatsu construction equipment, and many Kubota products, with both gasoline and diesel engines. Your CBR probably has a redline of greater than 10,000 rpm, and yet this same filter is also used on a diesel engine that runs only 2500 rpm. In fact, the specs for this filter are pretty mundane. Typical flow and pressure ranges. In fact, it's BETA ratio is less than stellar; 2/20 at 13/52? Not exactly a super-fine filter by any definition. And yet this little filter is on hundreds of thousands of engines around the world. And all those engines run for the equivilant of millions of miles.

Interestingly, if you cross reference the Purolator L14610 into Wix, you don't get the 51358 that is suggested for your application by Wix. The x-ref for the L14610 is 51356, which fits (again) a huge list of equipment, including marine engines! It just goes to show you that filter makers take the criteria (specs) of an OEM filter, and then apply one or more suggestions for that application. It shows that interpretations are sometimes different. Different is not wrong! It's just not the same. That's an important concept to understand. Further, since engine OEMs don't typically make their own filters, they just find a filter that meets their particular needs in a catalog (such as from Wix, Purolator, Champion, etc), and then spec that into the BOM (bill of materials) for the engine production plans.

Start to get the point? Filters are not typically designed "only" for a motorcycle. Companies such as Wix and Purolator look for applications that they can meet with a broad product line and then recomend one or more of their offerings to meet a particular flow, construction, filtration and size packaging requirement.

Last edited by dnewton3; 06/10/08 05:36 AM.
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: Seat Suggestions
« Last post by Bigman on Today at 10:43:07 am »
Has anyone on here had trouble with Seth Lamm? I sent a seat to him in May, and it's almost October and have not gotten my seat back. I did receive it initially, and had to send it out for a readjustment. When I have called him and told him my name he would say have to give me more accurate information then that. He seemed really cocky and rude.
He told me on August 28th that the week of the 3rd of September he would call me to get it readjusted and sent back out that week. He said that I would be at the top of the list. Well 2 weeks went by and I didn't hear anything from him.
So I called him again...not rude to him, I told him my name and what bike it was for, and he says, again you have to be more accurate with your information. I have to admit I was pretty fed up with what came across as a very smart comment at this point.
    I then told him that since your such a stickler on accurate information, why haven't you gotten back in touch with me about getting the seat adjusted when you said you would? I then told him, if I was the next seat in line, why are you telling me I need to be more specific about what I am inquiring about....shouldn't that name be familiar to you that's at the top of the list??? He actually hung up on me! I have called and left a message since....and was very nice, and that was a week ago and no response. I have read nothing but good reviews on Seth, and I don't consider myself to be hard to get along with, but I must confess that this is putting a terrible taste in my mouth right now. Any suggestions of what to do?
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: Seat Suggestions
« Last post by C. Moore on Today at 09:59:27 am »
Finding the right seat for your butt is tough. I've gone from stock to a Laam to a Kawasaki touring seat. The touring seat works for me. I just got back from a trip to Colorado that took us from Dallas to the Rockies and back. I'm pretty much sold on it. I have heard good things about the Russell Day Long. 
Introductions / Re: Greetings from new old(er) guy
« Last post by ron203 on Today at 09:39:29 am »
Welcome Scott T. Much of your story sounds like mine. Rode when young, stopped to raise a family, tried a C-10 and got hooked. Don't be a stranger. Come out to some events. This club is WAY more (and deeper) than just the Forum (which is also pretty good). When you get around to joining the club as a full member, you'll find lots of in-depth tech stuff in the library. Again, welcome!

Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: best oil filter?
« Last post by RoadKillHeaven on Today at 09:00:11 am »
As long as an oil filter is properly installed in conjunction with proper oil in the crankcase, it will perform as intended. 

The difference is how much you desire to spend on an oil change.

Introductions / Re: Greetings from new old(er) guy
« Last post by Grant on Today at 08:36:53 am »
Welcome aboard  Scott T and SEMPER Fi  :great: there seems to be a draw here on the COG for salty old Marines. I to have a 2005 that was given to me and liked it and this group so much I bought a 2016 C-14 to keep it company.  Keep your eye on the calendar and do everything you can to make your area rides this group is so much more than just the website. Ride safe and have a great time on your new Connie they are truly amazing bikes.
Get the biggest one that they have.
Here's a summary of my response to a similar thread in the Tires/Suspension subforum:

I enjoy my '01 C10 a whole lot more now that I've done this:

- Race Tech 1.0 fork springs (straight rate) - $130
- Race Tech gold valve cartridge emulators - $170

I'm medium-aggressive, 260 lbs with gear, often ride heavily loaded with a Givi 52L trunk and full saddlebags.

To me, the tradeoffs are budget vs performance (riding style) vs shop time.  My parameters:  I'm not flush, but I'm not broke. I'm a medium rider, and although I do my own work generally, I'd rather be on the road than in the shop.  ;D

The Race Tech stuff I did is the middle ground between the cheapest/simplest option of replacing the springs/oil and the high-performance and involved option of replacing the entire front end.  Have to take the forks off to do it, but I also replaced the fork seals and added a fork oil drain plug at the same time.

So you went with the Race Tech springs instead of Sonic?  Your total weight and mine would be about the same.  I'm 225 on a good day but packed I could be 250 real easy.  I noticed that you went with the 1.0 spring which appears to be the heaviest.  Is that rate comparable to the Sonic 1.2 or is this apples to oranges?

Motorcycle Safety / Re: ATGATT!
« Last post by Tour1 on Today at 03:56:18 am »
I won't debate either.  My gear has saved me a lot of pain and I'm not a pain junkie.  Despite that I have to admit that of 4 times I've fallen off the bike all 4 were essentially balance versus traction issues.  One time my chin bar / face shield may have broken the wind screen after a "low side" when I took the wrong exit and started feeling my oats too much while looping on the 3rd leg of a 4 way cloverleaf.  Another time I slid on the stuff that accumulates on the cusp between the slow lane and an exit, said slide wearing through my heavy jeans but not the exterior of my name-brand riding jacket.  Gloves kept my hands in good condition.  On 2 wheels ATGATT is the best bet.
Make sure you get 2 syringes, one to push fluid in from the bottom and one to suck fluid out of the reservoir. Do not let it overflow. Start by sucking out the fluid to make room for the new.  Make sure you do both calipers. Go slow the hole in the reservoir is tiny.

Sometimes you can not push the air bubble down the line to have it come out the caliper. The air bubble should work its way to the top of the lines and as you work the lever it will vent into the reservoir. That is why you can tie back the lever over night and get back the firm lever. You are holding the brakes on long enough for the air to make it to the top of the lines, then the pistons push back some fluid and vent the air. Some times it needs help by back bleeding.

When I worked in general aviation we always bleed brakes from the calipers to the master cylinder.

Ok...this method is starting to make sense now.  I really need to get those syringes.  How big do they need to be?  I see some online from 100 to 200 ML.  I'll go to Tractor Supply tomorrow. 

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