Recent Posts

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21
I never said 3 quarts came out. I said that I had 3 quarts in it following the last oil change including the filter.  Seems like I remember someone complaining about their posts being misinterpreted.  :))

I defer to your expertise as you have helped me and countless others.  I thank you.

all good, and you are always welcome for any assist I can provide, that eases a job.
I was thinking about what you said in post #19, and also thinking how many times we have had people ask us about overfilled crankcases (100's), when they poured in the specified amount,
because they didn't know, or were told, that there were 2 drain bolts/plugs, and only drained from one, before filling with 3 quarts... Not saying you did that either, just relating as some folks still don't know that...

a little oil on a garage floor (always looks like a lot, when it really isn't), is just another "Red Badge of Courage", when like mechanics see it... tells them you actually work on stuff... so it's good... that's what they make Kitty Litter for, to soak up "man spills"...
 :)) :beerchug: :great:
22
Tom,
don't beat yourself up over it, in the end, you're safe, and it is an easy fix... :truce: :truce: :truce: ;)
Oh, and NEVER listen to the F/B Trolls... most of them never repaired or owned a C10... and have no clue...
Face it, it's a 20 year old bike, with 100+k miles on it, and the drive shaft on these have no way to re lube the U joints... that is practical (maybe a hypdermic, but who wants to do that..?)

Thing break, it's had a long hard life, smile, and thank it for going as far for so long, as it already has... and with a new shaft, has many more miles left to go... :great: :great: :great:
23
Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: New waterpump oil seal leak
« Last post by TnRider on Yesterday at 07:05:04 pm »
I never said 3 quarts came out. I said that I had 3 quarts in it following the last oil change including the filter.  Seems like I remember someone complaining about their posts being misinterpreted.  :))

I defer to your expertise as you have helped me and countless others.  I thank you.
24
I'd say it was just a driveshaft failure. I can't think of anything that would cause it other than the u joint, and the bevel drive and final drive are probably unaffected. Pretty ugly though.  :??:  Steve
My current theory is metal fatigue, maybe hairline crack(s) on the sides of the joint on the bevel gear side. I'm thinking the cracks opened gradually to the point where it allowed the bearings to come out if the housing. Then the bits flying around caused the rest of the damage in the time it took me to stop. I found one of the bearings inside the swingarm...still looking for the other one.

Lots of questions on the COG FB page--almost accusations--of "how could you possibly have not known there was a problem...noise, vibration, etc." Well, I'm here to tell ya, there was no prior warning. Quite a few trolls over there, eh, Steve?
25
I won't argue with you about it, but I said a "small amount", I can't see how 3 quarts drained out, or even a cup, as I said, I've pulled a bunch, and yeah, some comes out, but not 3 quarts...
see the attached photo, it shows what I'm saying about the Oil window in relation to the actual water pump.
26
Concours C10 / ZG1000 General Chat and Tech / Re: New waterpump oil seal leak
« Last post by TnRider on Yesterday at 06:39:41 pm »
As I said earlier, I had 3 quarts of oil in the bike after my previous oil and filter change.  It was not over filled. And oil did come out after I removed the water pump without draining the oil first since I had read earlier that it might not be necessary. Other authors stated that it was necessary to drain the oil first which is correct.
27
Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: Valve Adjustment C14
« Last post by Road Runner on Yesterday at 06:38:34 pm »
Interesting! Thank you! Someone else on another thread said they MUST come off. So, 3 follow up questions for you then. 1.) At what point in the entire valave adjustment process do I need to begin worrying about the cage in terms of loosening a portion of it as you mentioned? And 2.) Where and how exactly so i do this “cut” for the faring b/c I def want to! And finally 3.) Did you buy Murph’s valve adjustment kit? Is it necessary? Trying to save as much money as possible as you might imagine :)

I replied to the message you sent. Nope, the canyon cages DO NOT need to come off. Let me know too if you want a pic of the location I made the hidden cut on each of the fairings so you can finagle the fairings around and off cages when you need to perform the valve adjustments, air filter change, coolant servicing, etc. Well worth it!
28
The problem with the seal on the water pump and oil getting past it and leaking out the weep hole seems to be pretty common. I have a thought about that then I would like to share with you guys to get your opinion. I’ve noticed that when selling the bike on its side stand, the seal would most likely be submerged in hot engine oil.  My thinking is that overtime this would cause the seal to prematurely dry out and harden. And I feel this would intern be a cause of leaking.

This is why I have decided to always park my bike on the center stand, which would ensure the standing oil level would be below where the water pump seal is positioned. Any thoughts on this?

that really has no bearing on the longevity of that seal whatsoever.
Having serviced dozens of them, they simply 'pop out' of position 99% of the time, and the actual 'seal' is damage free. It stems from the seal "cup" and imensions, being just a tad loose of the desired size to retain it with a firm press fit.

I did always park my bike on the center stand when it would be parked for long periods of time (after local rides). Water pump oil leak still happened. 

I believe the oil seal on the water pump is still in engine oil when on the center stand as evidenced by my garage floor when I removed the pump without draining the oil first (3 quarts with filter replacement). >:(

if you look closely at the oil level "window", and draw an imaginary horizontal line forward, you will see that the shaft does not really sit fully submerged, so rule that out... there may be 'slung' oil on that shaft, but there should never be a large quantity of oil, that dumps out during pump removal on the center stand, especially if you stick a 2x4 under the front tire, with the bike on the centerstand, to level it out....
If more than a few ounces pour out (if even that much), that engine was overfilled from the start, and I have see overfilled engines puke that seal out in a higher incidence % than engines correctly filled, or low on oil.
29
I am trying to decide which bike to ride to the Skagit car show, the Concours or the Sabre.  :motonoises:
Looking for heavily biased answers?? 


I'll sayyyyy take the Connie.   ;D

Speaking of heavy, I think I will take the Sabre. It is 100+ pounds lighter, has fairing and bags and is easier in the parking lots.
30
I didn't  mean to infer the rear drive was needed when I gave that link, I just thought that with all that shrapnel flying around in there, the ebay assembly I noted would give him all the 'bits' in a one stop purchase, as it seemed a pretty low price,
good luck on the rebuild.
 :great:
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