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21
Southeast Events / Re: BMWNEF 36TH Annual Winter Rally
« Last post by Volcantour on Yesterday at 04:32:34 pm »
If the drivers I often see are any indication, If you don't use a seeing-eye dog or a white cane you're good to go. >:(

There's more truth here than many realize...   :-[  Ouch!
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Accessories C14 / Highway pegs for Canyon Cadges
« Last post by bigBen on Yesterday at 03:44:45 pm »
I recently installed Canyon Cadges.  I attempted to put highway pegs on them to no avail.  The ones I purchased are the inexpensive ones that have two horseshoes to fit either 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch bars.  The 1 inch couldn't be installed at all.  The wedges used to clamp against the bars would bind on the bolt causing the wedge to turn and walk the peg up or down the bar, scratching the power coating.  Even when installed I couldn't get tight enough to hold.  This was probably because the wedge was binding, thus preventing the clamp from griping the bar.

I have researched other types of pegs and the reviews indicate all seem to have a problem being tightened sufficiently.  I have the same pegs installed on my Harley with 1 1/4 inch bars and they work well, although those are chrome instead of powder coated. 

Any suggestions?
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I have to ask, and only because so far I haven't had to R/R a tensioner so far (lucky I guess), before it stops "working" does it "announce" it's in soon to fail mode....? I.e., do you get any warning noises like Ka-Ka-Ka crunch, ir did they just fail to start, and that was that?

again, only curious, as this would be good to know.

  Yes, lot's of clanging and banging as the tensioner is popping back and hitting the clutch basket. steve

Yeah, mine rattles when the bike is cold, especially when under load, but it goes away once the bike warms up.

I really do need to get in there and replace it, and now would probably be a good time since the yard is mush and I don't plan on taking it out of here anytime soon.

EDIT: I guess I could add that mine has been doing this for at least 10-12 years, which is probably why I haven't been too concerned. I did pull the cover during a tech session over in Lynchburg in 2005, but didn't see anything that really scared me, so put it all back together.

Pix with the tensioner out:


From the Manual - tensioner in place:
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Southeast Events / Re: BMWNEF 36TH Annual Winter Rally
« Last post by Ranger Jim on Yesterday at 02:33:48 pm »
If the drivers I often see are any indication, If you don't use a seeing-eye dog or a white cane you're good to go. >:(
25
Southeast Events / Re: Spring Rally in the Valley - April 26-27, 2019
« Last post by ron203 on Yesterday at 02:00:12 pm »
Oh boy, the challenge of getting to RitV and Cliff's HMR the next weekend. :motonoises:

No challenge, just do it. Kay and I plan on attending both. But we are heading home in between.

Yeah, there you go. Shawn, just go to Kurt's and stay for the week, then head to Cliff's. Problem solved!
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Southeast Events / Re: Spring Rally in the Valley - April 26-27, 2019
« Last post by MotoCommuter on Yesterday at 12:30:18 pm »
Oh boy, the challenge of getting to RitV and Cliff's HMR the next weekend. :motonoises:

No challenge, just do it. Kay and I plan on attending both. But we are heading home in between.
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  I have been asked to look at this thread and weigh in. I had not, until now, because I haven't seen a linear thought process on the diagnosis, and that leaves all of those trying to help reduced to "wild *ss guess" rather than an "educated guess".

  So here's a question I would like answered by the OP. You state there is the same metal shavings in the coolant as in the oil. These are 2 distinctly different engine systems, and they don't cross, or there would be water in the oil. I only see one place in the assembly this could happen, the waterpump. and it would need to be a radial shaving of metal on each side of the shaft seal.

   In other words, the shaft would be walking in and out, the impeller grinding metal from the inside of the pump on the water side, but what would grind metal on the oil side?  Does the waterpump have metal ground off each side of it?

  Please examine these components, and / or otherwise please explain how the same metal shavings can be in both the coolant and oil.

  Steve
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Southeast Events / Re: Spring Rally in the Valley - April 26-27, 2019
« Last post by SteveJ. on Yesterday at 12:08:06 pm »
Oh boy, the challenge of getting to RitV and Cliff's HMR the next weekend. :motonoises:

One is  kinda on the way to  the other (if'n you start from South Floriday)...

I generally make a it two day trip going across. I camp at Land Between the Lakes in NW TN/western KY. Nice area and frugal camping options, especially frugal with the geezer card.

Oh, the sorrows of being retired....

It's not all peaches and cream. It's easy to lose track of what day it is...

But for me that is about the only down side. Yeehaw.  :beerchug:

29
Riding Gear / Re: Sena 10U Battery Life
« Last post by ghostrider990 on Yesterday at 11:43:06 am »
Search for it on ebay...you know how to do that! :beerchug:

Allright smartass.....I guess I earned that one.  ::)

It's not me who needed it - I thought maybe it would be more productive for the OP to match the same parts
with a link of the one you got off ebay. 

I mean - It's not like there's only ONE offering on ebay when you type in such things.....it's like getting the phone book, and then some.  :-[

gr
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Concours 14 / ZG1400 General Chat and Tech / Re: metal shavings in oil?
« Last post by Skidmark on Yesterday at 06:05:05 am »
     Good evening to all.
I did hope that some day I would meet with Gary again to thank him for the bike, and how he kept it, this wasn't the scenario I was thinking of. Thanks Gary for your input and response.Now to the bike. The springs on the backside of the housing(basket), the ones that are in the pics,well I don't see any where on the case or bearing that has made any contact with them. I do think that the event or impact that caused the damage at the spring ends made more space between the landings, that the springs shifted back and forth to cause the flat spots on them,  If you look in the pics( I tried to capture it), behind the springs on the aluminum backing, there is worn down spots where the springs lay. I do agree with the replacement of that housing. The friction plates thickness measurements are that of being new or just wearing in, I don't think there is too much of a problem using them. The steel plates do have odd patterns on them, it looks like over spray from paint is the only way to describe. The spring free length on those springs are unknown, there wasn't any slipping or grabbing any time I have rode, they may be ok. The only thing in the case that seems to b out of order(other than the damage from the metal circulating through the lubrication system)is the end of the shaft where the clutch assembly is fastened, the end of the shaft looks to be discoloured. That might have been heat treating or tempering from the factory?? I really think that the engine has taken some heavy premature wear and its expectancy is going to be short lived, Other parts I think will either be troublesome or fail due to this incident(like the water pump that just started to leak)I will say that MOB and Bud are completely accurate when bummed is mentioned. I am more than wanting to remove the oil pan to give a direct assessment of the gears and some of the lower parts of the engine, but Im not sure if that is going to solve this. Any thoughts on that would be very useful and appreciated.
    Thanks and have a wonderful night.
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