New TPMS has replaceable battery...

[MAN OF BLUES]

Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.   Ideas?

bad solder joint
damaged batt during process
installed incorrectly (polarity)
all of the above, or just a bad batt from the start (did you volt check it before?)

the sensor should have been "tested" prior to install, by tieing a string to it, and with the bike on and running, spinning the sensor in a circle vigorously on the string, verify it gets read.

Or, taping it inside the spokes of the rear wheel on an inverted bicycle and spinning it up for a minute will do the same.

always test, before install.. saves pealing a tire off... again.

[Freddy]

Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.   Ideas?

bad solder joint
damaged batt during process
installed incorrectly (polarity)
all of the above, or just a bad batt from the start (did you volt check it before?)

the sensor should have been "tested" prior to install, by tieing a string to it, and with the bike on and running, spinning the sensor in a circle vigorously on the string, verify it gets read.

Or, taping it inside the spokes of the rear wheel on an inverted bicycle and spinning it up for a minute will do the same.

always test, before install.. saves pealing a tire off... again.

..........and after soldering?  I momentarily shorted one out while soldering and that killed it.

[luv2fly]

Thanks MOB.  At least I don't have that annoying alert on my dash.  Gotta get this fixed.  Hate not having it.  I'll tear into it again.

Is there a way to check if I shorted out the sensor?

[Freddy]

Do a volt check on the battery.   When spinning the sensor by hand it takes 60-75 seconds to register on the display, which will show 0 psi and the red warning light.

[RUFFSTUFF]

If you decide to not replace the battery and just put in a new TPMS unit, how to you get the new sensor to work with your bike?

[lather]

Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.   Ideas?

I had a front sensor go bad after about 8 years. after third battery replacement it would work only randomly and stay on for no more that 4 or 5 miles. I speculate that the accelerometer device that turns it on and off by wheel rotation can wear out from metal fatigue.

[MAN OF BLUES]

If you decide to not replace the battery and just put in a new TPMS unit, how to you get the new sensor to work with your bike?

PRIOR to replacing the sensor, you record the number on it, or retain the paper it comes with, with said code number, and after it's installed, it must be "paired" into the ECU, using the KDS3 propriatary software and plug in unit. It's important to record the data before installing, the KDS cannot "identify and add" it on it's own, it has to be manually input.

[RUFFSTUFF]

So what hacker do I have to bribe to get the software and plug-in unit?

 

[Egodriver71]

So what hacker do I have to bribe to get the software and plug-in unit?

 

SiSF

[RUFFSTUFF]

So what hacker do I have to bribe to get the software and plug-in unit?

 

SiSF

Is there a version of that with more letters?

[MAN OF BLUES]

So what hacker do I have to bribe to get the software and plug-in unit?

 

Your local Kawasaki dealership.... 20 minute job.

[Bud]

So what hacker do I have to bribe to get the software and plug-in unit?

 

SiSF

Is there a version of that with more letters?

SISF is Steve In Sunny Florida.  Steve Sefsick is the owner of shoodaben engineering.  Steve is THE guy for carb work, including overflow tubes for C10's as well as other goodies like his torque cams.  For the C14 Steve has various "flashes" for the ECU that correct fueling issues that mama kaw didn't spend enough time on.  Check out the links below.
https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQEFWeFeqUo&t=5s

Steve would be one of the guys that you wish was traveling with you when your bike is on the side of the road dead.  Hope that clears things up for ya.

[Vader]

I called my local Kawasaki shop today to order a new TPMS for the front and make sure they have Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT front and rear in stock.
2 things to discuss: They only have Road 5 now, and Kawasaki discontinued the TPMS for my 2011 and are saying the new one for the newer C14 will work. He said it operates in the same 315 hz frequency. I have the extended warranty is why I'm going for a new sensor.
Has anyone tried the new sensor on an older bike, and has anyone rode the Road 5 yet?

[Spiderman]

Vader , I installed the new style sensors on both front & rear , did the work myself & dealer charged me $25.00 to program them. that was on my 2010 and about 4 years ago.

[MAN OF BLUES]

I called my local Kawasaki shop today to order a new TPMS for the front and make sure they have Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT front and rear in stock.
2 things to discuss: They only have Road 5 now, and Kawasaki discontinued the TPMS for my 2011 and are saying the new one for the newer C14 will work. He said it operates in the same 315 hz frequency. I have the extended warranty is why I'm going for a new sensor.
Has anyone tried the new sensor on an older bike, and has anyone rode the Road 5 yet?

Vader , I installed the new style sensors on both front & rear , did the work myself & dealer charged me $25.00 to program them. that was on my 2010 and about 4 years ago.

Spidey, you must have had the new ones installed at that period, I have to presume...
good price tho on the programming...

the "new" sensors are all that are available now, for current bikes... if you have a pre '13 bike, and had a KPP extension updates, that provided covereage under KPP for replacement, they will "keep" the sensors they pull out (and send them back to Kaw, to verify the replacement), unfortunatly the new style are made to prevent replacing a battery.. (yes, I know people are "saying they can do them"... but I am not positive they are able to "correctly"... in other words, until I see a dozen, I ain't agreeing they can be done reliably)... Hold on to your old sensors, and have the battery replaced... loosing an old sensor for a new style, is tossing away money..

I do suggest going back, and reading this whole discussion, from the beginning, and decide on your desires to try it...
We already know how the success ratio on the old sensors replacements went (very good success ratio), the new one... so far, just the reported posting Freddy found, from an Aussie website, and kindly posted here...  personally, I'd give it a go, after seeing the pictures... but then, I'm cheap, so if I hosed an already dead sensor... meh...

jmho

I had my "old style" ones replaced under warranty in fall of '12, and luckily I got some of the last "old style ones" in the replacement... next time I need them done, I'll do my own battery replacements... and I tried to get my old ones, but they wouldn't let me have them...(as I wanted to replace those batteries when the ones I got, needed replacing... and then both sets were already programmed into my ECU, so I could swap...)

just for a refresher on the progression;

pre  '13 models
21176-0107   SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ
superseded by
SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ
21176-0125 ..... no longer available... neither number

post changeover '14 to current...
21176-0748  SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ

$213.02 each...

[Spiderman]

MOB , yes they were the new style and I still have the old ones. Are you saying both sets would still be programmed in the ECU ?

[Vader]

Thx for the info guys. I will try to keep the old if possible. I've already had the rear replaced a couple of years ago (need to check my records) and i don't know what model I got. I never thought to try to keep the old one.