Author Topic: 17" conversion  (Read 4920 times)

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Offline Sport Rider

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #25 on: November 19, 2016, 02:54:51 pm »
you are definitely going to change your handling dynamics, so check wheel sizes as you replace things.  there are some things you can do with the front end, particularly replacing the stock bars with something customized to attach to the top triple clamp with risers.  that allows you to raise the triples on the forks to adjust the front end for the change in the wheel.  in the rear, there are less options to offset the wheel height changes.  I had replaced the entire front end with the ZRX1100, so mine is different than what you are doing.  try the front replacement without any other changes though, to see how you like the feel.  you can adjust it from there to make it the way you want it.

Offline Lonestar Cruzer

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #26 on: November 19, 2016, 03:52:50 pm »
The original owner put Heli bars on. They're great, I have them set pretty wide for low speed maneuvers right now, but I'm guessing going down to a 17" in the front will make parking lot turns easier still. Anything in particular I should take into consideration when adjusting them? Or just get them somewhere comfortable and easy to control? The front shocks are set with almost no preload right now, bumps that bottomed out my grom and some 250s that I've ridden didn't startle the Connie, however I've been feeling she's much more susceptible to angled grooves / ridges in the road, some of which I never even noticed on the grom. My front tire is pretty V Shaped compared to the U shape on the grom, so I attribute most of that to having tires that don't fit my riding style. Now, I haven't ridden the connie without the warped front rotor yet, so I have yet to feel what normal dive feels like and adjust for that.

Offline Pbfoot

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #27 on: November 19, 2016, 04:41:04 pm »
@ SportRider: I have access to a brake lathe to machine the rotor down to 280mm. As far as the suspension goes, wouldn't the back be sitting higher (depending on tire size) because I'm going up 1" in the rear and down 1" in the front?

@ TheDude: Appreciate you giving Pbfoot an endorsement. I look forward to meeting my first fellow CoG member.

@ JDM: TY for linking the bracket modification post. I feel like I'd be insulting Pbfoot if I turned down his generous offer now though. I also don't want to mess around with brake mounting parts too much, I want to upgrade the calipers in the future.

@PBFoot: I have access to a lathe big enough to do the brake rotors, but not a wheel. I wouldn't have expected you to do both. I will send you a message as soon as I have the wheel, and get to personally inspect it for damage, then we can figure out a date/time.
No skin off my back if you want to go JDM's route. Offer is still open. If you run the 160/70 the bike will sit higher, if you run the 170/60 the bike will sit lower. RPM is slightly lower with the 160/70 and higher with the 170/60.
If you don't have time to do it right, when do you have time to do it over.                                                                17" wheels, Nissin 4 piston calipers.1kg Sonic Springs.Cartridge Fork Emulators. KB Brace. Galfer brake lines  Free power mod.

Offline Yamahawk

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #28 on: November 19, 2016, 10:41:03 pm »
I have had no problems using all the stock Mean Streak rear wheel hardware. If you lengthen the rear brake stay from the Connie, it will bolt right up with about 5/32 or 3/16" taken off the outer side of the Mean Streak caliper bracket. Then just cut the inner ear off the rear 'U' of the lengthened Connie brake stay, and use the proper size bolt for the Mean Streak caliper threaded hole. If you find the write up I did earlier last year on it, there are pictures showing what I did.
You do not have to mess with machining the rear wheel, changing rotors, machining rotors, or anything else. Just narrow the caliper bracket, lengthen the Connie stay, and cut the inner ear off the rear of the stay. It bolts right up!
.... you DO have to measure and see where the caliper will sit to clear the rear right saddlebag, then custom fab a length of 1/2" pipe to fit, and weld the stay ends on the new pipe. That was the biggest part of the whole job!
Charlie
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Offline Lonestar Cruzer

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #29 on: November 20, 2016, 06:02:53 pm »
Appreciate the input Yamahawk, but I don't have access to tools I can use here to modify parts precisely enough for me to be comfortable with it. Most of my equipment is pneumatic, but I don't have a compressor, and wouldn't be able to hook up a compressor powerful enough at my home to run most of my pneumatic fabrication tools. If an afternoon, $50 and a case of beer gets that wheel modified so I can put decent rubber on my bike, I'm sold.

Offline Yamahawk

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #30 on: November 23, 2016, 02:03:44 am »
Hey, no problem, there is more than one way to skin the old cat hehe... I picked up a set of Hell Bars for a pretty good price last summer, and I really like them. I am going to pair them up with the riser extension that came on my 06 Connie, next spring, as I need longer brake lines to add the riser, and will do all that when I get the braided steel lines done. Have a great Thanksgiving!
Charlie
All Things work together for good, for those who Love God, and are the Called according to His Purpose. - Romans 8:28

The Only Thing Necessary for Evil to Triumph...
Is for Good Men to do Nothing - Edmund Burke

Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #31 on: November 29, 2016, 07:44:33 pm »
To the OP, I don't know if you've found a speedo drive yet, but just wanted to let you know that the Concours drive will work, but the speedo will not be as accurate as with the ZX6 unit.  The one that Ted linked to looks correct, but what is important is the gear ratio of drive.  The only difference between the Concours drive and the ZX6D drive is the number of teeth on the larger gear.  The gear itself can be swapped and can be had for about $21.00 new.

Otherwise it sounds like your well on your way with some help from some great people  :great:

Hope that helps.
Gary F.

1998 ZGX1100
Central Valley California

Offline Bradley

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #32 on: November 29, 2016, 07:51:34 pm »
I'm in the SF bay area, which is known for high prices.   I found a wheel machine shop that had a wheel lathe.  They only charged $50.   

All the regular machine shops would have to put it on a table and setup the cut in the CAD software, so it would have cost hundreds due to the time required.  The key is finding a shop that makes/repairs alloy wheels and has a lathe.

Offline Lonestar Cruzer

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #33 on: November 29, 2016, 11:30:01 pm »
Thanks for the info GF-in-CA. I was a little concerned that the width of the speedo was different or something. I'll just use a gps app on my phone until I get sick of it.

Offline Pbfoot

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #34 on: December 09, 2016, 09:07:49 pm »
Wheel is finished!
If you don't have time to do it right, when do you have time to do it over.                                                                17" wheels, Nissin 4 piston calipers.1kg Sonic Springs.Cartridge Fork Emulators. KB Brace. Galfer brake lines  Free power mod.

Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #35 on: December 31, 2016, 10:01:23 am »


[/quote]  I like the idea of the 2 piston rear caliper. Already machined a brake caliper bracket down.
[/quote]

I have been doing two pot rear brakes for several years now. My bike has a rear two pot from a 900 Vulcan. I have also done at least a dozen of the conversions of the stock 2 pot C-10 front calipers to fit the rear.
"Some days you're the windshield, and some days you're the bug" Get used to it cause thats life !!!

Offline Pbfoot

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #36 on: December 31, 2016, 01:22:23 pm »


  I like the idea of the 2 piston rear caliper. Already machined a brake caliper bracket down.
[/quote]

I have been doing two pot rear brakes for several years now. My bike has a rear two pot from a 900 Vulcan. I have also done at least a dozen of the conversions of the stock 2 pot C-10 front calipers to fit the rear.
[/quote] Can you post a how to for the 900 Vulcan rear, please?
If you don't have time to do it right, when do you have time to do it over.                                                                17" wheels, Nissin 4 piston calipers.1kg Sonic Springs.Cartridge Fork Emulators. KB Brace. Galfer brake lines  Free power mod.

Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #37 on: December 31, 2016, 11:56:25 pm »
 

I have been doing two pot rear brakes for several years now. My bike has a rear two pot from a 900 Vulcan. I have also done at least a dozen of the conversions of the stock 2 pot C-10 front calipers to fit the rear.

[/quote] Can you post a how to for the 900 Vulcan rear, please?

[/quote]
 I will need to take a picture of the rear caliper bracket but basically it requires welding a small tab onto the bottom of the existing
caliper bracket, then drilling and tapping one 10mm X .125 hole to line up with the stock Connie mounting link (the one that comes off of the rear axle). This is how I converted the stock Connie front calipers to fit the rear also. When folks removed there stock front brakes to do 4 pot conversions I would modify one of their old front brake calipers to fit the rear. The stock Connie front brake calipers are 2 pots (one small and one large) but they work great on the back also. I got the two pot rear brake conversion idea from T-Cro several years ago. 
"Some days you're the windshield, and some days you're the bug" Get used to it cause thats life !!!

Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #38 on: January 01, 2017, 02:08:40 am »
hehe, I just leave a lot of air in the rear brakes so they don't affect much.  Those things are dangerous ya know.   :-\
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Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #39 on: January 01, 2017, 11:23:47 pm »
hehe, I just leave a lot of air in the rear brakes so they don't affect much.  Those things are dangerous ya know.   :-\

Rev you sound like the Nascar guys at Daytona when they back off the brake pads from the rotor so it doesn't slow the
car down during qualifying.
"Some days you're the windshield, and some days you're the bug" Get used to it cause thats life !!!

Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #40 on: January 02, 2017, 12:14:58 am »
The Concours' rear brake is a problem in my world.  I basically neuter it so that it cannot be locked up no matter what.  It really isn;t all that helpful except at walking speeds anyway. IMHO that is.  So yeah.  Whatsa behinda me isa notta important.    ;D
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Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #41 on: January 02, 2017, 01:06:51 am »
"The Concours' rear brake is a problem in my world.  I basically neuter it so that it cannot be locked up no matter what". 

That is one advantage I have found with the 2 pot brakes on the rear. I get much more consistent braking with less input.
The darn thing was always so easy to locking up with the single pot stock brake caliper. Of course this is just the rantings
of a non-papered engineer so what do I know.
"Some days you're the windshield, and some days you're the bug" Get used to it cause thats life !!!

Offline Rev Ryder

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #42 on: January 02, 2017, 01:39:59 am »
"The Concours' rear brake is a problem in my world.  I basically neuter it so that it cannot be locked up no matter what". 

That is one advantage I have found with the 2 pot brakes on the rear. I get much more consistent braking with less input.
The darn thing was always so easy to locking up with the single pot stock brake caliper. Of course this is just the rantings
of a non-papered engineer so what do I know.
I feel ya bro. Not sure wat the 2 pots are like, but going to the 17 inch rear and slightly shorter tire makes  accidental over-brake/lockup even worse.   Leaving a little air in gives a very puny rear brake, but insures against lockup.  I don't feel I need a rear brake anyway, but it still lets me hit it in a panic and not scratch my helmet new Klim Carbon Helmet.   :rotflmao: 
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Offline Lonestar Cruzer

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Re: 17" conversion
« Reply #43 on: January 04, 2017, 05:40:34 pm »
I put an EBC organic pad on the back (kevlar I'm sure), FA85 is the part number I think. I like it because at low speeds it won't heat up fast enough to lock up the rear unless you just stomp on it, but at high speeds it gives you a second of safety before it really starts biting. I have been practicing my emergency maneuvers on the bike since it's new to me, and I can feel the braking feedback from the rear progressively get harder the longer I keep pressure on it, and I can modulate the pressure exactly where I want it after it starts heating up. I'm not super confident on the bike yet, but I have much more confidence in my swerving maneuvers with these over the sintered pads which could lock up on me a lot easier. I haven't installed the 17" rear yet as my tire still has about 70% tread and 3 years left on it, so I can't comment on the difference in performance there.

Once they're hot, they'll bite like a crocodile though.