Author Topic: Cartridge forks?  (Read 2017 times)

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Offline ronazon

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Cartridge forks?
« on: May 08, 2012, 05:30:53 pm »
I have a 1998 C10.  Do I have cartridge or damper style forks?

The EVAL1 article in Chalkdust mentions 94 and 95 models have damper rods...not sure if this means ones after that have cartridges...

Offline Slybones

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2012, 06:16:37 pm »
dampening rod style forks
2003 Concours, 121K
2005 GL1800ABS, 52K
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Offline ronazon

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2012, 06:31:52 pm »
Rats...was afraid of that...thanks!

Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2012, 06:42:28 pm »
Yes, they are damper rod forks, but they can be made to perform almost as well as, and in some cases even better than cartridge forks using Racetech or other damping inserts that make the damping more like cartridge forks.

HTH,
Gary F.

1998 ZGX1100
Central Valley California

Offline Slybones

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2012, 07:25:11 pm »
Yeah, them emulators work pretty good. Reasonable amount of compression dampening tuning can be done with them.
2003 Concours, 121K
2005 GL1800ABS, 52K
COG #6953, IBA 28004

Offline ronazon

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2012, 08:22:26 pm »
I just put Racetech gold valves and springs in my Honda VTX1800.  I had the preload set too light to start, added spacers and now it's too stiff.  Need to go to the middle now and am sure it will be just right.  A lot of work getting it dialed in.  When it was set too light, the ride was much better though.

Probably will just do the 4" cut off mod to the Concours...

Not sure what weight fork oil to go with.  Any recommendations?  I am 210...

Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2012, 10:17:07 pm »
Start with 15w at the factory level and go from there.  The thicker oil is to increase rebound damping with the stiffer springs, but it will also increase compression damping.  If the compression seems too harsh you may need to play with the oil weight to get a good compromise between compression and rebound damping.  Or go with the emulators  ;)

HTH,
Gary F.

1998 ZGX1100
Central Valley California

Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2012, 11:26:25 pm »
  I had the preload set too light to start, added spacers and now it's too stiff.
Wow, it seems like every one is posting about preload and stating they added preload and the bike got stiffer.

You cannot make a spring stiffer by adding preload. It is not possible.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2012, 11:42:28 pm by Daytona_Mike »
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Offline Cobber

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2012, 12:23:42 am »
ronazon as you know I had my bike apart when you were at my place - its back together now and 4.5 inches cut off and 15w oil with 4 lines showing on preloads - rides and handles much nicer than stock

Offline ronazon

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2012, 12:45:10 pm »
ronazon as you know I had my bike apart when you were at my place - its back together now and 4.5 inches cut off and 15w oil with 4 lines showing on preloads - rides and handles much nicer than stock

Hey Cobber!  I have the 15w fork oil and am ready to do the mod.  The few accounts I have read show guys cutting 4" off...so why did you go with 4.5"?  And, did you pull the forks or leave them in?  What about the tank?  Any tips?

How's that seat?  Is your wife happy?  Have to say this stocker seems pretty good to me.  So glad I didn't go with a Corbin.  I have got to get my bars pulled back though...major neck/shoulder pain...

Offline Cobber

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Re: Cartridge forks?
« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2012, 09:15:05 pm »
what I read was anywhere in between 4-5" depending on your weight and how much change you are looking for - if in doubt cut 4" put it back together and ride for awhile you can always take more off - a little more difficult to add it back. I just pulled the springs from the top and left forks and front wheel in place. No need to remove anything else from bike to do this mod -lay towels on your tank and cover what you can of fairing etc... to prevent oil mess and I slipped off several times trying to put spring caps/nut back on (that is the most difficult part of whole process is getting those fine threads started with the spring pushing back at you) Make sure your preloads are adjusted out before removing and before installing makes it easier as well. Be happy to watch or if ya need an extra hand.
road some alphabet roads last weekend - she likes - "mama aint happy aint nobody happy" - worked out good for both of us.