Author Topic: Changing fork oil  (Read 12447 times)

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Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #25 on: June 30, 2011, 07:41:56 pm »
You mean the bolt on the bottom that holds the dampening rod in place?
Yes, just remove the dampening rod bolt and the oil drains out. No need to remove the forks, no need to drill holes.

Dang !!! that would work too.
I just now am changing the oil.  Before today I was  removing the fork tubes. Today I removed the dampening rod bolts. It came out super easy and they went right back in just as easy. This is the way to do it and they way i am doing it from now on.
  Now I am reading up on how much fluid I should install.

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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #26 on: June 30, 2011, 09:36:41 pm »
  Now I am reading up on how much fluid I should install.

6 1/2" from the top of the fork tubes, forks compressed, springs removed.

Ride safe, Ted
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #27 on: June 30, 2011, 09:44:27 pm »
  Now I am reading up on how much fluid I should install.

6 1/2" from the top of the fork tubes, forks compressed, springs removed.

Ride safe, Ted

And you should be able to do both forks with one bottle of oil.
Gary F.

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Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #28 on: June 30, 2011, 09:52:31 pm »
I did 6 inches, compressed with no springs (with cartridge emulators installed) and one bottle with some left over. I will see how it goes.
Thanks
« Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 11:27:10 pm by Daytona_Mike »
Normally aspirated engines have perpetual turbo lag
2000 Red C10 1052 kit 100+HP  + way more torque.
2008  C14 Silver Dammit Full AreaP- Flies are put back in SISF_Flash
2011  KLR650   688 piston ported and polished
2011  KTM 530    This thing is FUN!!

Offline mr t

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #29 on: June 30, 2011, 11:58:02 pm »
I just changed my fork oil on my 06 and having weak fingers I found it MUCH easier to reinstall the caps holding a 19mm deep socket against the spring pressure. Tom Taylor COG#7173

Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #30 on: July 01, 2011, 02:44:56 am »
I back out the preload screws  all the way and install the caps with my fingers. They go on with just a little bit of pressure then I screw in the preload screws
Normally aspirated engines have perpetual turbo lag
2000 Red C10 1052 kit 100+HP  + way more torque.
2008  C14 Silver Dammit Full AreaP- Flies are put back in SISF_Flash
2011  KLR650   688 piston ported and polished
2011  KTM 530    This thing is FUN!!

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #31 on: July 01, 2011, 03:18:51 pm »
I just changed my fork oil on my 06 and having weak fingers I found it MUCH easier to reinstall the caps holding a 19mm deep socket against the spring pressure. Tom Taylor COG#7173

If you use a socket and a Speed Handle it is MUCH easier!

6" of fluid may be a bit high.  May give you a harsh ride.
I think you are above the level that Kawasaki recommends.

Ride safe, Ted
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Offline Slybones

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #32 on: July 01, 2011, 03:26:59 pm »
If you are using aftermarket springs they recommend 150mm from the top. If the conversion calculators are correct thats 5.9 inches.
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #33 on: July 01, 2011, 08:47:12 pm »
And that is with the emulators in, but the springs out? And the fork completely compressed?
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Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #34 on: July 01, 2011, 11:34:19 pm »
Yup , I have aftermarket springs (Sonic 1.2's) so 150mm is what I was shooting for with shocks fully compressed and emulators (if you have them) installed and springs out.
I went for a ride today and I am very pleased with how the suspension feels. I had just one hole in my emulators (earlier version) so I drilled an extra hole in each one and loosened the spring tension on the emulators to one turn and now  it really soaks up the bumps, railroad tracks and pot holes with no brake dive.
I am waiting to hear back from RaceTech on getting a set of softer emulator springs (pink) as I have the stiffer yellow version. What a nice combination to soak up the rough roads and give a stable ride, Sonic springs with emulators and a Progressive rear shock.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2011, 11:37:48 pm by Daytona_Mike »
Normally aspirated engines have perpetual turbo lag
2000 Red C10 1052 kit 100+HP  + way more torque.
2008  C14 Silver Dammit Full AreaP- Flies are put back in SISF_Flash
2011  KLR650   688 piston ported and polished
2011  KTM 530    This thing is FUN!!

Offline Slybones

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #35 on: July 01, 2011, 11:50:56 pm »
Didnt known they had Pink ones. Blue ones are softer. 40# springs versus the Yellow 64# springs. According to some here in a recent thread, the blue springs came in the box in a separate bag. Yellow ones are installed by default, but blue ones are provided.

I just switched to the blue ones. I didnt have my original box and I got them from RaceTech. $10 + S&H. But others who recently installed said they were in the box.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2011, 11:54:18 pm by Slybones »
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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #36 on: July 02, 2011, 12:40:27 pm »
I'm not familiar with the Emulators. (what they do, or how they work).
Can someone explain briefly?

Ride safe, Ted
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #37 on: July 02, 2011, 02:02:33 pm »
Briefly, they provide better and more adjustable damping of the fork movement, and can be installed with only minimal modification of your forks. They are called emulators because they emulate cartridge forks in damping rod forks.

Damping Rod Forks And Damping Rod Forks With Emulators
Cartridge Forks
« Last Edit: July 02, 2011, 02:06:06 pm by WillyP »
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Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #38 on: July 02, 2011, 04:40:15 pm »
SLybones, How did you order yours? Do you have a link or a number to call. I called thursday morning and left a message and never heard back from them and I cannot find anything on their web site.
Normally aspirated engines have perpetual turbo lag
2000 Red C10 1052 kit 100+HP  + way more torque.
2008  C14 Silver Dammit Full AreaP- Flies are put back in SISF_Flash
2011  KLR650   688 piston ported and polished
2011  KTM 530    This thing is FUN!!

Offline Slybones

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #39 on: July 03, 2011, 10:48:03 pm »
I called and left a message never heard back. Called a second time and they got back to me within an hour or two. Ordered over phone. Springs arrived maybe a week later.
2003 Concours, 121K
2005 GL1800ABS, 52K
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Offline Slybones

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #40 on: July 03, 2011, 11:04:44 pm »
So as pointed out on my last oil change I measured the oil first, and then installed the emulators. I expected this to increase the oil level such that I had too much. 

I got out there this afternoon to removed some of the extra oil. There was none. The forks were still very close to right on 150mm from the top. Some small amount of oil comes out with the springs. But I don't expect that to be much.  My Murph's fork oil measuring tool was still set where I had left it. double checked. I expected to stick it down into the fork and remove it seeing the end covered with a small amount of oil maybe 10mm - 20mm worth. I had planned to measure the length and determine how much over you are by setting the level first, and then installing the emulators.  But it was dry. Both sides. My first thought was how can I have too little. But with some checking I found the level was just a smidge below the original level.  -- Remember the forks are in the bike and even compressed all the way are not straight up and down. With the measuring tool centered in the middle of the fork the tip of the tool was dry. With the tool slid down to the bottom the tip comes out slightly wet. Its that close.
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Offline Greg

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #41 on: July 08, 2011, 03:33:33 am »
 :(

150mm or 6 inches down from the top, springs out.  Got it.  Are the forks on the bike for this or are they in the vertical position, on the work bench?

Is the 15w oil a correction to help the diving?  Should i do the oil?  Will it help my bike diving?  Are springs a good idea too?  Progressive or another brand?
Greg Means
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #42 on: July 08, 2011, 03:49:09 am »
Forks need to be compressed, either on or off the bike.  If the fork isn't vertical, measure to the midpoint of the top surface of the oil.  The service manual has a picture of the measurement.  The heavier oil firms up the damping, and will help dive some, but heavier springs will help even more.  I personally like the linear rate springs (Sonic or Racetech), though others have had good experience with the Progressives.   HTH,
Gary F.

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Offline Greg

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #43 on: July 08, 2011, 03:52:44 am »
Thanks Gary. You've been such a huge help since i bought my bike.  I bounce all kinds of (probably dumb) questions off COG and you tend to answer most of 'em. :)

I'm looking at Sonic springs.  I'll get a set coming, and pick up some oil.  I didn't think about just measuring the 'mid-line'.  Thanks again Sir. 

Look forward to meetin ya some day
Greg Means
Garden Valley, CA

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K&N, Bar Risers, Ram Mount, 12v Power Outlet, Avons - 55/46

92 Candy Red Aspencade
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #44 on: July 08, 2011, 05:05:17 am »
Look forward to meetin ya some day

Seeing how we're only about an hour or so apart, I think that's doable.   :)
Gary F.

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Offline Greg

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #45 on: July 08, 2011, 05:28:16 am »
Look forward to meetin ya some day

Seeing how we're only about an hour or so apart, I think that's doable.   :)

Exactly! :iagree:
Greg Means
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Offline Fdkarl

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #46 on: July 09, 2011, 09:36:49 am »
Anyone know what the recommended fluid levels are supposed to be? I agree that it is more important to have the levels equal in advance
Karl

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #47 on: July 09, 2011, 02:06:04 pm »
Back when I did mine I used 6 1/2". From what has been posted here I may have used an incorrect level. Mine was on a 86.
Possiblyon the early Connies,  the levels was lower than what is currently recommended?

I have a set of 1.1 Sonic springs that I purchased from someone? (Bob Smith I think)
I planned to put them in my sons Connie (2000).
I was told that the 1.1's were too stiff? But I see 1.2's in this discussion.
Can someone tell me if the 1.1's are too stiff?
Aaron weighs is approx 190-200 lbs.... Normally rides solo.

Ride safe, Ted
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Gone but not forgotten; 87 and 00 Connies..

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Offline Slybones

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #48 on: July 09, 2011, 02:12:07 pm »
Anyone know what the recommended fluid levels are supposed to be? I agree that it is more important to have the levels equal in advance
Karl

If your using the stock springs, use the amount recommended in the manual. If your using aftermarket springs use the weight and amount recommended by the spring manufacturer. 

Much of what you rear here at 150mm or 5.9 inches is based on what is recommended by aftermarket MFG using aftermarket springs. -- This is different amount than if your are using stock springs.
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Offline WillyP

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Re: Changing fork oil
« Reply #49 on: July 09, 2011, 02:20:43 pm »
If you are happy with the ride and handling, then you got the weight and height correct. If not, try something different. But don't overfill the forks! They do need some air-space.

Of course, it is good to have a recommended starting point, but just don't take it as gospel, start with whatever and go out and ride for a while, then make one small change based on your experience, and ride some more.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2011, 02:22:49 pm by WillyP »
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