Author Topic: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?  (Read 18038 times)

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Offline Hazy

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Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« on: December 10, 2012, 02:46:58 pm »
Hey gang,

I need to replace the fork seals on my 2001. Im looking through the service manual and it's listing a bunch of special tools for the job. Do I really need them? Are there alternatives to to these tools? I really don't want to have to buy yet another specialized tool that I'll only use once. Thanks.

Tools Listed:
Front fork cylinder holder handle 57001-183
Front fork cylinder holder adapter 57001-1057
Fork outer tube weight 57001-1218
Fork oil seal driver 57001-1219
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2012, 04:11:32 pm »
IMO, it is not necessary to have all the tools the manual lists, though having an actual seal driver is nice.  There are a number of ways to make do, but using a large wood dowel or broom handle to hold the damper tube (fork cylinder) will work to get the bolt out of the bottom of the fork.  If you have an impact wrench, you can use it to get the bottom bolt out without using much force to hold the damper tube.  Some owners just leave the fork assembled and use the impact wrench to get the bolt out, then disassemble the fork.  A 1 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe with its ends cut square will work for driving the bushing and seal.  You may need to slit the pipe along its length to get it to fit over the outside of the fork tube.  For extra driving force, you can hose clamp the PVC pipe to the fork tube and use the weight of the fork tube to help drive them in to perform the same function as the "fork outer tube weight".

HTH,
Gary F.

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Offline Stasch

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2012, 11:26:26 pm »
You can make a damper rod tool out of about 2 feet of threaded 5/8 inch rod, jamming two nuts together at each end.  The nuts are 15/16" / 24mm socket wrench size and fit the damping rod perfectly.  This extension enables you to use a wrench to hold the damping rod while loosening its hex nut coming in through the bottom of the outer fork tube.

You can get the hardware to make this tool for just a few bucks at your hardware store. 

I secure the fork tube on my work bench by clamping the caliper mount tabs between 2 blocks of wood in a vice.  This held it in one place while applying opposing forces to the damping rod through the damper rod tool and its bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. 

The other 'tool' that you will need is a piece of 1 3/4 inch pvc pipe about 2 inches long. Cut it in half length wise on one side only.  This will allow you to flex the split tube in place over the fork tube and drive your new seals in evenly.

There's an even cheaper homemade self crafted tool method at this link:

Helpful Fork Seal Link

Quote
For extra driving force, you can hose clamp the PVC pipe to the fork tube and use the weight of the fork tube to help drive them in to perform the same function as the "fork outer tube weight".


At first glance I'ld be a bit uncomfortable with this.  Make real sure there's absolutely no grit between the slider tube and the clamped on PVC tube so you don't score your slider tube if it slips a bit while driving the seal in.
Stan Visser - COG#: 6830  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > C10 STUFF FOR SALE - Parts List

He IS a racer, hence the forward lean!!  by: Mettler1

Offline 2linby

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2012, 12:58:48 am »


1 - 2' 5/8 all-thread rod
2 - 15/16" castle nuts
2 - 1/8" roll pins
1 - really cool duct tape handle...... :nananana:

Special Big "B" fork inner stanchion tool - PN# BFD
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Offline firedaniel

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2012, 01:13:06 am »


1 - 2' 5/8 all-thread rod
2 - 15/16" castle nuts
2 - 1/8" roll pins
1 - really cool duct tape handle...... :nananana:

Special Big "B" fork inner stanchion tool - PN# BFD



Man that would have been a great idea if I had thought of it!  Lol.  Very nice! :great:

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2012, 01:59:04 pm »
wow, thanks y'all. I really appreciate the help!
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Offline Stasch

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2012, 03:34:52 pm »
Uh, way cool.  Put the threaded rod in the vice, then slide the outer tube over it and remove the bolt from bottom of fork . . . . much simpler.

Brilliant.  Thanks.
Stan Visser - COG#: 6830  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > C10 STUFF FOR SALE - Parts List

He IS a racer, hence the forward lean!!  by: Mettler1

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2012, 03:42:50 pm »
can anybody provide pictures of these contraptions? having not done this job before, I'm having a hard time putting it together in my brain.  :truce:
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Offline Stasch

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2012, 03:49:06 pm »
The threaded rod above is the first tool.  Mine is only slightly different in that I didn't weld 1 nut on each end, but jammed 2 together at each end to accomplish the same thing.  (don't have a welder).

That rod goes down into the lower, outer fork tube to interface with the damper rod. 

It is used to hold the damper rod while the bolt its attached with through the bottom of the fork tube is removed.

See the following two links:

'Helpful Fork Seal Link' in the 2nd reply to this thread.

Then see:

Fork Parts Diagram

HTH



Stan Visser - COG#: 6830  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > C10 STUFF FOR SALE - Parts List

He IS a racer, hence the forward lean!!  by: Mettler1

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #9 on: December 19, 2012, 02:43:25 pm »
Confused on the castle nuts. do I need to drill holes in the rod to secure the castle nuts? and by 'Roll Pin', you mean cotter pins? Off to Lowes now. I'm sure this will all make sense once I get into the job. And to say I'm nervous about it is an understatement.  ???
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Offline 2fast

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #10 on: December 19, 2012, 04:28:33 pm »
Roll pins are different than cotter pins. They are hollow split up the side steel and come in various diameters and lengths. They are made to drive into a drilled hole slightly smaller than the pin. The tension holds it securely in place.
Brian in Minnesota

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #11 on: December 19, 2012, 05:48:36 pm »
Ok... did a quick Google... I didn't know that was what those things were called. Now I'm really confused. Why do I need 2 -  1/8" roll pins?

I got the rod, Lowes didn't have Castle nuts, so I got 4 regular nuts and 2 stop nuts just in case. I'm totally sweating the load on these darn forks.  >:(
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Offline Stasch

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2012, 05:49:52 pm »
You don't HAVE to have castle nuts on the threaded rod.

I put 2 regular nuts on each end and tightened them into each other. 
Stan Visser - COG#: 6830  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > C10 STUFF FOR SALE - Parts List

He IS a racer, hence the forward lean!!  by: Mettler1

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2012, 06:06:05 pm »
Thanks Stasch...yeah, that's what I bought.

Now about those roll pins....um...huh?
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Offline Stasch

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #14 on: December 19, 2012, 06:35:13 pm »
roll pins would work with castle nuts just fine.

If you don't have castle nuts, then regular ones will do, you just need 4 rather than 2.

Or, if you have a welder (or know someone who does) weld a regular nut to each end of the threaded rod.
Stan Visser - COG#: 6830  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > C10 STUFF FOR SALE - Parts List

He IS a racer, hence the forward lean!!  by: Mettler1

Offline Eddie-FL

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #15 on: December 19, 2012, 06:47:13 pm »
FYI, another name for roll pins is spring lock pins. And unless you're really good at drilling holes in round things (all-thread), I'd just go with the double nut plan.
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Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #16 on: December 19, 2012, 06:55:42 pm »
Ok, so the nut fits inside of something in the fork? I was thinking the rod screwed into something. I think I'm slowly starting to understand this job.  :(
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Offline MizzouMike

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #17 on: December 19, 2012, 06:59:11 pm »
:popcorn:    I have a leaking fork seal, so I am most likey going to try and repair this winter....  It is amazing what I learn on this site  :great:
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Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #18 on: December 19, 2012, 07:08:38 pm »
Hey Mizzou,

I bought a Seal Mate to see if I can fix my leaking fork seal without replacing it. I plan on trying it either tomorrow or Friday. Quite a few have expressed curiosity about this little tool so I'll post a full report in a separate thread. I already have new fork seals so if it doesn't work, I'll just swap 'em out anyway.

Here's the link...
http://sealmate.net/

Was only $6 bucks so why not give it a try.  :great:
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Offline Raycad

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #19 on: December 21, 2012, 12:44:42 am »
A while ago, (maybe not on this forum), a guy mentioned he was cleaning up the final gearcase big oil seal (just behind the wheel) by sliding a strip of 35mm photographic film under the seal. I don't know if it worked, but if so, maybe it would work on fork seals? And maybe any very thin plastic strip just stiff enough to be pushed under the seal would work too?

Could be leaking fork seals aren't necessarily worn or defective but just pushed away from the fork tube by dirt?

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Offline WillyP

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #20 on: December 21, 2012, 11:44:35 am »
Ok, so the nut fits inside of something in the fork? I was thinking the rod screwed into something. I think I'm slowly starting to understand this job.  :(


Yes! once you remove the fork cap, and the spring, and, if you have aftermarket emulators, remove them too. The damper has a socket at it's top, and is way down at the bottom of the fork tube. A 15/16" (it's actually a metric size I forget what but 15/16" is very close) is needed to prevent the damper from turning. Do NOT attempt to turn the damper, there is an Allen bolt that goes into the damper, which you can see inside the half circle where the axle goes.

I used a 15/16" socket and extensions, with a nut taped in it to hold the damper:


If you don't already have the socket and extensions, the threaded rod with nuts might be cheaper, and probably easier to use.

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Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #21 on: December 26, 2012, 11:25:03 pm »
Ok... I got the hex nut out of the bottom of the fork tube thanks to the handy dandy rod tool. Is there something else I need to do to separate the tubes? I tried sliding apart a bunch of times but its not budging.

And an update on the Seal Mate test. I got the dust boot off and found the seal was completely destroyed. It was. Corroded and distorted and needs to be replaced.

If anybody has a leaky seal and the seal looks good, PM and I'll sell ya mine. With shipping it's 6 bucks. Worth a try if you don't want to mess with a seal job.
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Offline 2fast

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #22 on: December 26, 2012, 11:54:14 pm »
Ok... I got the hex nut out of the bottom of the fork tube thanks to the handy dandy rod tool. Is there something else I need to do to separate the tubes? I tried sliding apart a bunch of times but its not budging.

Have you pulled the spring clip on top of the seal?
Brian in Minnesota

Offline Hazy

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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2012, 12:46:55 am »
Oooohhh... no I have not. How do I get that out?
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Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #24 on: December 27, 2012, 12:49:22 am »
See the two open holes near each other on top of the seal? Either a spring clip tool or an ice pick or two. Once you get it started it will peel right out. Don't let it go flyin.
Brian in Minnesota