Author Topic: fork problem (Read 3271 times)

johnwesley · « **on:** March 30, 2009, 07:27:00 pm »

I have slack in the fronk fork section. When on the center stand, front wheel off the ground, there is slack front to back. If I grab the fork tubes in stead of the wheel there is no slack. In my mind this rules out the head bearings. Does that sound right? Is it possible that the fork bushings have worn past the limit at 30,000 miles? what say yee

Donrix · « **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2009, 08:28:00 pm »

John, how much play are you getting? It really doesn't seem logical that you would have play when you move the wheel back and forward, and not with the tubes, unless you have a problem with your wheel bearings. How do your tires look? Do you have any wobble when you slow down? Ever hear any knocks when you go over a bump? With the wheel off the ground (and an assistant helping), place a long bar under the front wheel and lift it to see if you have play that way, too (have your assistant observe with a drop light). Check all your fork nuts and bolts for proper tightness. Thorough investigation is needed to absolutely rule out a problem with the fork assembly. When was it last serviced? How about your wheel bearings? Be safe.

Donrix · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2009, 08:36:00 pm »

Boomer poster this some time ago concerning when the wheel bearings need replacing, and has been on this forum for several years: Test #1;

johnwesley · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2009, 08:45:00 pm »

John, how much play are you getting? 1/4" It really doesn't seem logical that you would have play when you move the wheel back and forward, and not with the tubes, unless you have a problem with your wheel bearings. when I grab the sachions the movement is still there, but when I grab the crome for tubes that it is not there. How do your tires look? like new Do you have any wobble when you slow down? no wobble Ever hear any knocks when you go over a bump? yes With the wheel off the ground (and an assistant helping), place a long bar under the front wheel and lift it to see if you have play that way, too (have your assistant observe with a drop light). no good help as the wife has to keep up w the 2 and 4 yr old. Will try to get some help tomorrow Check all your fork nuts and bolts for proper tightness. Thorough investigation is needed to absolutely rule out a problem with the fork assembly. all looks good with the bolt tourqe When was it last serviced? about a year ago, but I just bought it and that is what the previous owner said How about your wheel bearings? they are in good shape Be safe. tks

Donrix · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2009, 09:31:00 pm »

John, from what you wrote, I recommend you find a wrench-savvy fellow bike rider locally who can help you analyze the 1/4" play problem. It seems to me there is a possible concern with your fork tube parts, since the movement is between chrome and the tubes. If you can't get local help, I suggest taking it to a trusted dealer for a thorough evaluation. I would suspect your forks need servicing, perhaps repaired (noise and movement).

johnwesley · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2009, 09:37:00 pm »

I guess I'll have to tear them apart. I have had to replace the frok bushings on another set before, but never in 30,000 miles. My zrx went through 75,000 miles I the bushings never gave me any problems. Now the 89' klr was a different problem. Had to completely rebuild them.

Donrix · « **Reply #6 on:** March 30, 2009, 10:31:00 pm »

Not a problem, if you have a service manual, John. Now is a good time to also replace the OEM springs, if your bike still has them. Murph has the ones I installed: http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_97&products_id=52 Good luck

johnwesley · « **Reply #7 on:** March 30, 2009, 11:23:00 pm »

not sure what is in them yet, but your right now would be the time to do it. I have been eyeing the sonic1.1 spring with a set of Cartridge Emulators. Man this new connie is getting expensive.

rowmer1 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:07:00 am »

I rebuilt my forks last year "44,000 miles". I noticed a fair amount of play from worn bushings. While it is possible to shim them, I decided to replace them. Big improvement. If your sure the stem bearings aren't to blame it might be time for a fork rebuild.

johnwesley · « **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2009, 10:06:00 am »

If I have to take the time to tear it apart you can bet I'll just replace them. I'm to lazy to half way do it. Good to know that you had some slack in your at 44,000. I am hoping that its not something worse causing the problem, like a tweaked fork tube.

johnwesley · « **Reply #10 on:** March 31, 2009, 10:39:00 am »

Donrix, thanks for the link to murphs. He has everything I need instock to fix the forks. Seems like an awesome place to work with

Rich · « **Reply #11 on:** March 31, 2009, 12:28:00 pm »

A simple test of the steering head bearings is to place the bike on the C-stand. Lightly grip the left handlebar weight between thumb and index finger of left hand. With right hand push down on the back of the seat until the front wheel is off the ground, about an inch or so. Let the front fall back to the ground. You should feel a solid >thump< at the left bar end weight. If you feel a "double-thump" (or what some people describe as a "click-thump" or a "thump-click") your steering head bearings are loose.

Paulie · « **Reply #12 on:** March 31, 2009, 04:49:00 pm »

I'm FAR frum a tech xpert. But if yer 94s wheel bearings are still orig @ 30k, I'll bet $ to donuts they're toast. Mine were @ 25k, & I've heard the same frum LOTSACOGgers with the the 94-06 (undersized) bearings. 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh OTP 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http://tinyurl.com/4p7pmd

johnwesley · « **Reply #13 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:07:00 pm »

I got two friends to help me with it to day. One moved the forks while the other felt around to pin point the movement. It is as most have thought, neck bearings. I tighten them up and buttened it up. no more slack and rides smooth down the road. Thanks for all the in put