Author Topic: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock  (Read 14680 times)

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« on: June 24, 2011, 07:19:07 pm »
For those of you that have one installed on you C-10.  is there a difference in servicing it or how how you service it? Is it different that the stocker?

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Ron
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2011, 07:44:18 pm »
I have a ZZR shock, and highly recommend it, with the other "frugal" option being the C14 shock.  The ZZR shock uses a coil spring and has a knob to adjust ride height.  The only damping adjustment is rebound.  As far as I know, it is not serviceable.  A few people have looked into having the shock rebuilt, and the answer was no.  Like the C14 the ZZR shock is slightly longer than the stock one, though not as much as the C14 shock, so if seat height is a concern, it may be necessary to install a lowering link.  The C10 shock uses air as a spring, and ride height and spring rate is adjusted using air pressure.  Rebound damping is adjustable.  It is possible to replace the oil in the shock, but it is not rebuildable.

HTH,
Gary F.

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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2011, 08:41:07 pm »
When I measured the ZZR1200 shock was only about 1/4 inch longer than the C10 shock. IIRC, the reports for the C14 shock are its about 1 inch, and makes a noticable difference in ride height. Some have used a lowering link in combination with the C14 shock to get the same ride height as stock.

You can try eyeball'n the differnce in length of a ZZR1200 and stock from this if you want

« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 08:42:48 pm by Slybones »
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Offline haileymon

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2011, 12:25:55 am »
Shame we can't just swap lower brackets. Still it looks like a pretty good fit. I think I could stand that little of a height difference for the handling improvement.
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2011, 06:39:09 pm »
I never knew there was a difference in  length until someone mentioned it, so it is not much, but I have long legs.  Even so, 1/4" at the shock would work out to a little more at the rear wheel.
Gary F.

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2011, 04:23:21 am »
Well I lucked out and got a ZZR rear shock off of E bay for 81.00, when I get it I'll give you guy's a call.

Cheers
Ron
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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2011, 06:24:12 am »
When I measured the ZZR1200 shock was only about 1/4 inch longer than the C10 shock. IIRC, the reports for the C14 shock are its about 1 inch, and makes a noticable difference in ride height. Some have used a lowering link in combination with the C14 shock to get the same ride height as stock.

You can try eyeball'n the differnce in length of a ZZR1200 and stock from this if you want




Have you Slybones or anyone else that has had this mod, found it nessessary to use a lowering link ? Or do you all get by with the givin set up?
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2011, 02:11:43 pm »
I have had the ZZR shock for about 4 years now, and don't have a lowering link.  I have never had any issues, in fact, I didn't even know the shock is slightly longer till about a year ago.  I never noticed any difference in the distance between the rear tire and the ground with the bike on the centerstand, so if it is different, it is not much.  Besides, I think the C10's handling will benefit from raising the rear a little, not to mention the increased ground clearance.  IMHO, I would not consider a lowering link because even if you noticed the difference, it won't be enough to bother with.  Again, JMHO.
Gary F.

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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2011, 03:14:20 pm »
Agree with Gary, I never noticed any difference changing the shock. I would not worry about the lowering link with the ZZR Shock. Did you get the linkage and/or lower bolt and bushing for it?

You'll need the ZZR setup for mounting the shock at the lower end. ZZR on left, Connie on right.

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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2011, 03:23:42 pm »
Also on the bottom you will want to get two thin, large washers to shim each side. Not 100% required but many/most do this. The width of the opening on the end of the ZZR shock is wider than the Connie Link by just a little but.

I used the washer on the right.



The thin on on the right



Looks like this installed. Hopefully yours is cleaner. I took the pic when I removed for greasing the bearings. You loose the zerk with this mod, and so I remove the bearing and grease them when I lube. I try to clean the area as best I can, but have not gone and cleaned the whole shock / linkage at a lube.
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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2011, 03:27:52 pm »
On the top the bushing in the top mount is 1mm wider than the Connie one. I used the dremel with a sanding disk and removed 1/2mm from each side. Bolt into place with the stock Connie hardware.

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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2011, 03:31:08 pm »
I mounted my remote preload adjuster like this, with zip ties to the rear pass footpeg bracket. Easily accessible, and not in the way. Wife has ridden back there many times like this. No issues.




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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #12 on: June 29, 2011, 03:34:37 pm »
Set the sag similar as you would front. I removed the saddle bags ( which does remove a small amount of weight ) and measured from the axle nut to the antler straight above it.
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #13 on: June 29, 2011, 03:38:57 pm »
I mounted my preload adjuster to the frame cross member at the rear of the tool tray.  It is accessible with the seat removed.  I used zip ties, as well.  I keep thinking I'll make a bracket, but haven't seen the need in 4 years.
Gary F.

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #14 on: June 29, 2011, 04:15:41 pm »
Thanks for the pics and advice. Yes I did get the lower linkage and bolt too.
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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2011, 11:22:22 pm »
Cool. I don't recall using the linkage. But does mean you got the nut, bolt and bushing needed. Nice.
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Offline cavediver

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2011, 07:23:00 pm »
Has anyone tried drilling and cross drilling the bolt for a grease zurk? You could go small and just open the end enough to tap for the zurk.

Jack

Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2011, 08:37:09 pm »
Has anyone tried drilling and cross drilling the bolt for a grease zurk? You could go small and just open the end enough to tap for the zurk.

Jack

That my friend is my game plan.  After I take it out I'll see if there is enough meat to allow an operation.

Cheers
Ron
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2011, 09:04:26 pm »
You probably already know this, but you will need to also drill a radial hole in the separate bushing (see Slybones' pic) and make sure it lines up with the hole in the bolt when you install, or make a groove inside the bushing to allow the grease to make its way to the hole in the bushing.  Both components are hardened steel.  On the other hand, it isn't that hard to remove and add grease, with it being at the bottom of the linkage.  I'm not trying to discourage you, just letting you know what you're in for.

I would be interested to know how it works out.  :)
« Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 09:21:03 pm by GFinCA »
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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2011, 04:15:40 am »
You probably already know this, but you will need to also drill a radial hole in the separate bushing (see Slybones' pic) and make sure it lines up with the hole in the bolt when you install, or make a groove inside the bushing to allow the grease to make its way to the hole in the bushing.  Both components are hardened steel.  On the other hand, it isn't that hard to remove and add grease, with it being at the bottom of the linkage.  I'm not trying to discourage you, just letting you know what you're in for.

I would be interested to know how it works out.  :)

10-4, GFinCA, I'll probably cross drill thru the bushing and bolt. Chamfer all the holes and go from there. Drill thru the head of the bolt half way down the shank and tap the head just enough to fully seat the zerk fitting.  It sound simple enough as long as Murphy's Law stay out the picture.

Cheer
Ron
« Last Edit: July 01, 2011, 10:38:22 am by SAS Mayhem »
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Offline WillyP

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #20 on: July 01, 2011, 10:26:29 am »
Good luck, let us know how that works.
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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2011, 09:58:55 pm »
I'm going through the same thing I have access to both a mill and lathe. I need to open my washers as the hole is to small to slip over the bushing.

Jack

Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #22 on: July 05, 2011, 12:37:38 am »

The thin on on the right



Say Slybones, about whats the thickness on that washer? My ZZR shock should be in on the 5th.

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Ron
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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #23 on: July 05, 2011, 01:51:09 am »
Um... Like you want me to measure the thing? Dang. I'll see what I can do.
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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #24 on: July 05, 2011, 05:32:43 am »
I thought I had an extra out in the garage that I could measure. But could not find it. On my website notes I had the ID as 7/8 inch. The thick washer I did not use measured at .119 ( probably posta be .125 ).  The thin one was 1/2 that.  I go for 1/16 thickness.  -- I also recall not being able to find anything close at home depot and the like. I had to go to Tacoma Screw to get something that worked.
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