Author Topic: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock  (Read 14670 times)

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #25 on: July 05, 2011, 11:30:45 am »
Thanks alot you answered my question... not a local find most likely.  more of a special fastener shop. 

Cheers Slybones  :beerchug:
Ron
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #26 on: July 05, 2011, 01:28:31 pm »
You might try a hardware store that has a selection of specialty fasteners.  In California, there is a chain called Orchard Supply Hardware that carries some specialty hardware, including what are called "machinery washers" or something similar.  They are available in a 7/8" I.D. and 18 gauge thickness, which is just under 1/16".  These look almost identical to what what Slybones used, judging from his picture.

HTH,
Gary F.

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #27 on: July 05, 2011, 03:43:57 pm »
Dang I lucked out, Lowe's had them so I got a package.  When I got home to my surprise UPS was early... my ZZR shock came in.  I have it hanging in the already, per Slybones instructions.  When I get to work tonight I try to drill and tap the lower bolt for a grease fitting.  If you see a mushroom cloud over NC, you will know I failed.  Also the adjustment on the bottom of the shock, what a good starting point?

Cheers
Ron
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #28 on: July 05, 2011, 03:59:00 pm »
The adjuster changes rebound damping.  There are 4 positions, I suggest you start at 3 and go from there.

HTH,
Gary F.

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #29 on: July 05, 2011, 04:05:36 pm »
The adjuster changes rebound damping.  There are 4 positions, I suggest you start at 3 and go from there.
HTH,

Cheers  :beerchug:
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Offline worncog

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #30 on: July 05, 2011, 04:11:29 pm »
I don't have a shock (yet) to validate this, so a pin in my balloon may happen quickly...but is it possible to enlarge the lower shock clevis to accomodate the original concours lower shock pivot bolt?
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #31 on: July 05, 2011, 04:22:56 pm »
It might be possible, but I don't know if the diameter on the C10 pin is the same as the ZZR bushing.  The only other issue I can think of is that the clevis on the C10 shock is about half the thickness of the ZZR clevis, so you probably wouldn't get enough grip for the nut on the threaded end of the pin.  If you had a way to counterbore or otherwise reduce the thickness of the ZZR clevis at the nut, you might get there.

Edit:  Just remembered that the stock C10 rocker is used, so the bushing is the same diameter as the old pin.
« Last Edit: July 05, 2011, 04:27:36 pm by GFinCA »
Gary F.

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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #32 on: July 05, 2011, 07:19:18 pm »
After further thought, I think you might run out of material in the thickness of the clevis arms if you try to modify it for the C10 pin.  The ZZR clevis has a wider opening, plus the legs are thicker, so even if you counterbore from both sides, you could end up with very thin material under the head of the pin and nut in order to accommodate the length of the stock pin.  Just words of caution to measure very carefully before cutting any material.
Gary F.

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Offline SAS Mayhem

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #33 on: July 06, 2011, 01:10:08 pm »
Good luck, let us know how that works.


Well it worked.  I drilled thru the head of the bolt 1/2 way down the shank with a 7/64 drill bit.  I then measured down from the out side and drill through bushing and though to the shank to the first hole I made. I did not drill through the shank. For those of you who don't know what the shank is , it's the un threaded portion of a bolt, under the head and above the threads.  ;D. After that I used a 17/64 bit (bigger than the first hole) and drilled into the head just deep enough to that I could thread the hole with a 5/16x 24 tap for the zerk fitting.  The fitting I used I got at Lowe's.
The hardest part of this was drilling into that flipping bushing,...HARD as HECK. but doable.  I would recommend a drill press for the whole operation.  The total time to do this was 10-15 mins.

This is the end product, the hole in the bushing is on the back side of the bushing.


Everything put back in it's place.


Here is the adjuster on the right side, zip tied for now.  I'm going to make a bracket so it won't look so bolt on. 


Cheers
Ron
« Last Edit: July 06, 2011, 06:46:56 pm by SAS Mayhem »
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Offline Colin

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #34 on: May 04, 2012, 03:03:52 am »
An alternative to drilling the bolt is to drill and tap the rocker itself.
This is way easier as you only need to drill the rocker which is soft and easy to drill and tap.
I would rather not weaken the bolt just in case.


I used a couple of O-Rings rather than washers, there is little to no sideways force and mostly your just looking to stop the grit and grime getting into the bearing, and to center the shock on the bushing.


I'll likely mount my adjuster under the seat in keeping with the sleeper nature of my ride.  :D


Looking forward to taking it for a spin tomorrow
Colin Prior

Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #35 on: May 04, 2012, 07:29:35 pm »
I just got ZZR shock off ebay for $80, so I will be tackling this project very soon. Do I need to order the stock ZZR bottom bolt to mount this thing?
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Offline GeorgeRYoung

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #36 on: May 04, 2012, 07:52:51 pm »
An alternative to drilling the bolt is to drill and tap the rocker itself.
I can't visualize how the grease gets through the roller bearing cage from the outside.

Offline worncog

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #37 on: May 04, 2012, 08:26:16 pm »
Thanks for the reminder Jim. Just scored a ZZR12 shock on Ebay for $80! Now I have a reason to get those mill and lathe receptacles wired up. Working on the oil pump issue right now. Hope to have some comparative data soon.
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Offline Colin

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #38 on: May 06, 2012, 02:48:36 pm »
An alternative to drilling the bolt is to drill and tap the rocker itself.
I can't visualize how the grease gets through the roller bearing cage from the outside.


Perhaps the parts diagram from the ZZR1200 Rocker will help


Basically the outside of the roller is against the hole in the Rocker Link.

Colin Prior

Offline WillyP

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #39 on: May 06, 2012, 04:22:51 pm »
Looking at that, it would appear the bearing outer race blocks the grease hole... so there must be a hole in the race to allow grease in, via a groove in the outside to allow it to travel if the holes aren't lined up. It's just not shown on the fiche. Or is it an open cage roller, with the bore of the link as the outer race?
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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #40 on: May 06, 2012, 04:36:15 pm »
Even of there was a hole in the outer bearing race, how does this grease more than just the one side of the bearings.  I understand you are squeezing it in under pressure from the greese gun, but does grease REALLY travel all 360*? Or do the bearings really move that much?  Huh?
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Offline WillyP

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #41 on: May 06, 2012, 05:18:31 pm »
Normaly there would be a groove, either inside the bore or on the outside of the bearing:

via a groove in the outside to allow it to travel if the holes aren't lined up.
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Offline Colin

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #42 on: May 08, 2012, 12:54:37 pm »
Looking at that, it would appear the bearing outer race blocks the grease hole... so there must be a hole in the race to allow grease in, via a groove in the outside to allow it to travel if the holes aren't lined up. It's just not shown on the fiche. Or is it an open cage roller, with the bore of the link as the outer race?


I thought it was an open cage roller, but now I think on it, I realize that the ZZR is open cage, but the  Connie is closed.
So one would have to swap the cage over and while the inner diameter for bushing is fine I'm not so sure if the hole size in the 2 rockers is the same.



Colin Prior

Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #43 on: May 09, 2012, 09:22:24 pm »
Ok Guys, I got my shock today. What do I need to attach it on the bottom end? Do I need to order a ZZR1200 bolt or have a bushing made? 
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Offline Colin

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #44 on: May 10, 2012, 12:37:17 am »
I went to my local "bent bike" scrap yard and found a bushing and bolt that fitted.
That cost me all of $1.00


Or you can go to your local Kawasaki Dealer and buy a ZZR bushing and bolt, which will fit just fine.



Colin Prior

Offline Jim Snyder

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #45 on: May 10, 2012, 01:26:11 am »
Or you can go to your local Kawasaki Dealer and buy a ZZR bushing and bolt, which will fit just fine.

Thanks Colin, I will get on the phone with Ron Ayers in the morning.
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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #46 on: May 12, 2012, 06:37:54 pm »
Ok guys, I'm about to install this baby, what is a good starting point for the settings? I see there is one knob under the shock and the outboard one on the hose. What say those who have done this already.   
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Offline hlh1

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #47 on: May 12, 2012, 08:01:19 pm »
Kind of depends on your fork.  With just me, at 185, I am happy the lowest preload and 2 on the shock for normal riding.  Going to 3 when I hit the turns hard.

« Last Edit: May 12, 2012, 08:05:39 pm by hlh1 »
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Offline Slybones

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #48 on: May 12, 2012, 09:24:57 pm »
I have the dampening adj on the bottom set in the middle at 2. Played with it a little and could not tell much myelf. For the preload adjuster on the end of the remote, set it by measuring the sag using the same procedure as you would for front forks. I measured from the axle bolt to the bottom of the antler straight above it. Since the antler will be at an angle to the measuring tape, pick a side and stay consistent so you dont get goofed up in your measurements.
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Offline GF-in-CA

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Re: ZZR 1200 Rear Shock
« Reply #49 on: May 12, 2012, 11:21:04 pm »
The damping adjuster sets rebound only, and there are 4 positions.  Start with #1 and if you feel any bounce in the rear, go to the next setting and repeat until you just get to the point where you feel no bounce.  Set your rear sag between 30 and 35 mm as Slybones described.  If you ride 2 up, set the sag both ways and make note of settings so you can set it with the adjuster.

HTH,
Gary F.

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