Curious why ur listing rear brake: harley davidson xl hh sintered ....typo perhaps or another project?
That was my concern with the shorter cans, so I went for the bigger, but is is still a bit short (see below). Also the exhaust point down. Maybe that will help.
Found the thread. Right side saddlebag melting.
Thanks,
Thanks for the info and got the package.
Stock was/is my choice. The oem lasted over 50k before seeping. Good enough for meThanks for the info and got the package.
Are you suggesting stock or another brand for the seals?
Thanks again
DS
The issue on the damaged bags "was not" radiant heat from the slip-on.
Thanks Rob,
the Quickshifter is on my list as a possibility, but still have to watch the budget. Budget is also why the MurphyKits tip over bars are not listed.
Install is very easy. Other than plastics it’s no more than 30 min to install, download APP and sync.
Thank for the info.34,000 miles first valve check...
He said all were within spec's
At least I got all new gaskets now.
Plugs and green hoses, 2011 bike thought it was time for hoses.
The need for valve checks on this motor should be twice recommended
I thought the GTR1400 overseas suggests a higher interval.
Must be Steve's FLASH!
Back in the 70's I remember my Hondas kept changing, not these.
I should be hitting 15K by the end of this season on my 09. My guess is that I will be doing a valve adjustment in the spring when getting her out of storage. I would like to replace coolant hoses too. I do not see any kits available anymore and guess I need to order each through a Kawasaki parts distributor. Do you know of anyone offering a kit? I plan to buy Murphs gasket kit for sure.34,000 miles first valve check...
He said all were within spec's
At least I got all new gaskets now.
Plugs and green hoses, 2011 bike thought it was time for hoses.
The need for valve checks on this motor should be twice recommended
I thought the GTR1400 overseas suggests a higher interval.
Must be Steve's FLASH!
Back in the 70's I remember my Hondas kept changing, not these.
Wow - not a single valve out at 34K miles!34,000 miles first valve check...
He said all were within spec's
At least I got all new gaskets now.
Plugs and green hoses, 2011 bike thought it was time for hoses.
The need for valve checks on this motor should be twice recommended
I thought the GTR1400 overseas suggests a higher interval.
Must be Steve's FLASH!
Back in the 70's I remember my Hondas kept changing, not these.
Samco makes a hose kit. I would suggest getting the clamps they offer as well.
I have seen the kit on the Samco website, but see no distributor to order from linked to the site.
stupid proof. 
Typical Hardley rider Cuda. A large majority of Harley (Hardley) riders never experienced a Jap bike, not alone a powerful one. They have nothing to compare too except other Hardley's. I'm in South Florida and I encounter many Hardley riders on the street, most are egomaniacs. Of course, a good spanking usually takes care of that...SeanThe guy who just did my valve check has only ridden HDs and hates the Interstate I said go for a ride on 75 after you get it back together,
He said I'm getting a different bike after the ride, could not believe the wind protection and solidness.
He always acts like Mr. Knowitall, mine is better than yours ...
Looks like all of them are shipped from the UK.Wait till 25,000 or more, then call Fred.
I believe it's a big worry about nothing.
These motors are super tight; I've had track days where I had a corner coming up, so I did not shift up and floated the valves, afraid I might have caused damage, and everything is fine indestructible
I got this kit, but at a better price, someone on here posted a link that I bought from, but it took forever to get them, came from the UK.
SAMCO Silicone Coolant Hose Kit Kawasaki Concours C14 | eBay
<p>The SAMCO Sport Coolant kit for your Kawasaki Concours C14 1400 GTR ZG1400 10-16 is a high performance product which replaces your standard factory rubber hoses to a high quality Samco Sport silicone hose kit. The SAMCO Sport OEM replacement silicone hose kits offer amazing value and exact...www.ebay.com
There's a few in EU and even a couple on Ebay. Just Google Samco and the part #
Thank you,
but does have rich tone. Which, I may add, is what I wanted...an old man sleeper.
How was the job of replacing the header? I have my 15K work coming this spring and considering the Delkavic 4 into 1.
1. I would not recommend Stainless Steel. It scratches very easily.
Where do you find the manual chain tensioner replacement? I have heard of concerns with the oil pressure tensioner.Overall...Well worth it!!!
General Maintenance:
Air filter clean
Brake flush
Brake pads
Forks-Seals and oil
Radiator Flush
Spark plugs
Sub-frame replacements
Valve check and new rubber seals
We also replaced a few missing bolts, washers, plastic pins, and one very important and slightly scary find.
The rear brake pin and cotter pin had been replaced with a bold and a nylon nut.
This caused a lot of play in the rear brake pedal and the nylon could melt.
Upgrades
What I noticed first:
ECU flash
WOW!!
I don't want to stir the "Flash War" Pot.
So let me start off by saying, read up on what they are doing and make the choice that you think will be best for your riding needs. Both are vast improvements over the stock flash according to everything I have read. I have worked with both men and I'm very happy with their services.
Throttle response - The very first thing I noticed when I gave it gas and no lag. For quite a while I thought that I had to much play in my cables, but it was the STUPID FACTORY FLASH. the flash upgrade makes shifting, decelerations, and general throttle management easier and better.
The acceleration and is very smooth and torquey, the engine feels and sounds open and smooth, and it feels like a different bike. I actually felt the front wheel unload and slip a bit.
Second
Fork rebuild - Let's just say I will be doing this more often. This also fixed a minor alignment issue I did not know I had. The bike has always been responsive, but now if feels planted and straight, yet drops into curves with little effort. Coasting hands free, the bike is dead straight (it used to slowly drift to the left and I thought it was me).
The screen bracket has removed a lot of flutter on my XL Cal-Sci screen. I did not have much movement compared to what others have reported, but at speed was when I noticed the lack of movement from the wind screen.
The brake, clutch and ABS cable replacement.
Response is greatly improved. The clutch feels very even and there is a higher level of control. The front brake engages quickly and no sponginess. I did a test emergency stop using front and back and it was quick, controlled and ABS did not engage.
The radiator guard looks good and I hope I never need it.
Manual cam chain tensioner.
I've heard and read the stock tensioner has a higher chance of failure after the engine is opened. Seems like the smart thing to do and a lot of people swear by them.
The Exhaust and headers
Except for the Stainless steel and missing parts, well...grins all around.
Dimitrius
Overall...Well worth it!!!
General Maintenance:
Air filter clean
Brake flush
Brake pads
Forks-Seals and oil
Radiator Flush
Spark plugs
Sub-frame replacements
Valve check and new rubber seals
We also replaced a few missing bolts, washers, plastic pins, and one very important and slightly scary find.
The rear brake pin and cotter pin had been replaced with a bold and a nylon nut.
This caused a lot of play in the rear brake pedal and the nylon could melt.
Upgrades
What I noticed first:
ECU flash
WOW!!
I don't want to stir the "Flash War" Pot.
So let me start off by saying, read up on what they are doing and make the choice that you think will be best for your riding needs. Both are vast improvements over the stock flash according to everything I have read. I have worked with both men and I'm very happy with their services.
Throttle response - The very first thing I noticed when I gave it gas and no lag. For quite a while I thought that I had to much play in my cables, but it was the STUPID FACTORY FLASH. the flash upgrade makes shifting, decelerations, and general throttle management easier and better.
The acceleration and is very smooth and torquey, the engine feels and sounds open and smooth, and it feels like a different bike. I actually felt the front wheel unload and slip a bit.
Second
Fork rebuild - Let's just say I will be doing this more often. This also fixed a minor alignment issue I did not know I had. The bike has always been responsive, but now if feels planted and straight, yet drops into curves with little effort. Coasting hands free, the bike is dead straight (it used to slowly drift to the left and I thought it was me).
The screen bracket has removed a lot of flutter on my XL Cal-Sci screen. I did not have much movement compared to what others have reported, but at speed was when I noticed the lack of movement from the wind screen.
The brake, clutch and ABS cable replacement.
Response is greatly improved. The clutch feels very even and there is a higher level of control. The front brake engages quickly and no sponginess. I did a test emergency stop using front and back and it was quick, controlled and ABS did not engage.
The radiator guard looks good and I hope I never need it.
Manual cam chain tensioner.
I've heard and read the stock tensioner has a higher chance of failure after the engine is opened. Seems like the smart thing to do and a lot of people swear by them.
The Exhaust and headers
Except for the Stainless steel and missing parts, well...grins all around.
Dimitrius
I had no issues when I reinstalled mine. Always been a hand off the bar bike.
I am familiar with compressing forks to align but admit I seldom do it at tire changes. The caliper alignment is interesting and I will try it at my next tire change.
Here:
"how did you get the alignment straightened out?"
I have no idea and the service Manual (pg. 13-10) tells how to install, but not align.. I also did come computer work as a barter.No empirical evidence, but I know the bike had been dropped while not moving on both sides due to the scratch patterns and the bent subframe.
I am familiar with aligning the front and rear wheel on a chained bike . Easy to get wrong when adjusting chain and easy to avoid. I am not aware that driveshaft bikes can be adjusted .No empirical evidence, but I know the bike had been dropped while not moving on both sides due to the scratch patterns and the bent subframe.
From what I have read, after a bike has been dropped, you should check the steering for proper alignment.
The bike would slowly drift left when I lifted my hands off the bars. I had this same problem years ago on the bicycle, the problem was me. I went to a chiro and did some therapy, and I could ride hands free again. A friend noticed that I was no longer crocked on the bicycle.
I've seen the same problem when the back wheel is not straight on a chained bike. The rider will shift their position to compensate. Straighten the back wheel and chain and the rider sits square on the bike.
Also, turning slow or fast is very responsive and secure.
It's very technical!
Dimitrius
That is exactly why ride a shaft drive. No adjustments or alignment.
