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'17 C-14 Header Install

5

502rider

Guest
Guest
Hello, I'm going to install the full Delkavic system soon and I have a few Q's about the header install please.

1. Is it possible to remove the factory one and install the Delk without draining/removing the radiator?

2. I was going to use these Fuji-lock:
M8-1.25 Hex Flange Fuji-Lock Nut 12mm A/F021-30812

3. Is it best to run the bike to operating temp in order to remove the O2 sensors from the stock header? Usually I've found that O2 sensors like to be hot in order to remove easily.

4. Are there any other steps/info/tips that y'all could bestow on me to make this an easy install?

Thanks!!
 
502rider said:
Hello, I'm going to install the full Delkavic system soon and I have a few Q's about the header install please.

1. Is it possible to remove the factory one and install the Delk without draining/removing the radiator?

2. I was going to use these Fuji-lock:
M8-1.25 Hex Flange Fuji-Lock Nut 12mm A/F021-30812

3. Is it best to run the bike to operating temp in order to remove the O2 sensors from the stock header? Usually I've found that O2 sensors like to be hot in order to remove easily.

4. Are there any other steps/info/tips that y'all could bestow on me to make this an easy install?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Adding a bit to comments already made:
  • Radiator and hoses can stay installed, should be plenty of room.
    • Loosen two top radiator mount bolts
    • Remove bottom central mount bolt
    • Use a bungee or other wrapped around the front wheel and lightly pull against bottom of radiator mount - to keep spacing open
  • How many miles on your current coolant? Literally only minutes to drain cooling system from the water pump, disconnect hoses and extract radiator. Will make it a lot easier, prevent incidental damage to the fins AND you get an opportunity to easily back flush to radiator fins (embedded dirt, rocks, road debris, rubber)
  • Important Steps to prevent header leaks
    • If not supplied purchase new gaskets
    • Use a torque wrench
    • Follow the intricate 1-12 step torque sequence in the shop manual
 
2andblue said:
Adding a bit to comments already made:
  • Radiator and hoses can stay installed, should be plenty of room.
    • Loosen two top radiator mount bolts
    • Remove bottom central mount bolt
    • Use a bungee or other wrapped around the front wheel and lightly pull against bottom of radiator mount - to keep spacing open
  • How many miles on your current coolant? Literally only minutes to drain cooling system from the water pump, disconnect hoses and extract radiator. Will make it a lot easier, prevent incidental damage to the fins AND you get an opportunity to easily back flush to radiator fins (embedded dirt, rocks, road debris, rubber)
  • Important Steps to prevent header leaks
    • If not supplied purchase new gaskets
    • Use a torque wrench
    • Follow the intricate 1-12 step torque sequence in the shop manual
Click to expand...
Thanks!! I did look in the SM and noticed the 1-12 torque sequence, but I didn't quite understand the overlapping 4/6, 7/9, and 10/12?
 
2andblue said:
Re-Torque.
Click to expand...
Thanks. My bike has low miles (4k), but has been in the bike for over 3 years, I guess. It's a '17 and I bought it new in '19, so what would you recommend about the coolant? Drain and flush with distilled water, just drain and refill, or let it be for another year? I'm not sure if these bikes are shipped from Japan wet, or the get filled once they get assembled by the dealer, or they get filled with fluids at the time of purchase?
 
502rider said:
Thanks. My bike has low miles (4k), but has been in the bike for over 3 years, I guess. It's a '17 and I bought it new in '19, so what would you recommend about the coolant? Drain and flush with distilled water, just drain and refill, or let it be for another year? I'm not sure if these bikes are shipped from Japan wet, or the get filled once they get assembled by the dealer, or they get filled with fluids at the time of purchase?
Click to expand...
That low of miles it’s a bit hard to justify and I wouldn’t want to mess with the dump and replace either. If you can get in there and not muck anything up then I’d just leave it...

For the whole flush piece if you were to do it I would just use a safe pre-mix diluted by 50% of distilled water, run and dump that then refill with full strength premix. There are lots of fancy products out there but not certain if really needed - just need to stay away from the harmful chemicals. I use green pre-mix Prestone.
 
I never knew there was a torque sequence. I just hand tightened, snugged all the nuts up then torqued them. I think the sequence is only important if the header is one piece. My BW has all separate tubes.
 
I put a full Delkevic system on my 2018. Only issue I had was getting it to seal where the 4 into 1 pipe attaches to the rear pipe, even with the sealant they supply. It still leaks. I took it off a couple times and tried heat silicone, still no luck. I spoke with a tuner that had the Delkevic and he said they made the metal flange too thick there, so it doesn't draw in to seal properly. If it happens with yours just know it's par for the course. I'd be intersted to know if you get yours to seal.
 
I Feel Fizzy said:
I put a full Delkevic system on my 2018. Only issue I had was getting it to seal where the 4 into 1 pipe attaches to the rear pipe, even with the sealant they supply. It still leaks. I took it off a couple times and tried heat silicone, still no luck. I spoke with a tuner that had the Delkevic and he said they made the metal flange too thick there, so it doesn't draw in to seal properly. If it happens with yours just know it's par for the course. I'd be intersted to know if you get yours to seal.
Click to expand...
Good to know, thanks. What about using some kind of header tape?
 
502rider said:
Hello, I'm going to install the full Delkavic system soon and I have a few Q's about the header install please.

1. Is it possible to remove the factory one and install the Delk without draining/removing the radiator?

2. I was going to use these Fuji-lock:
M8-1.25 Hex Flange Fuji-Lock Nut 12mm A/F021-30812

3. Is it best to run the bike to operating temp in order to remove the O2 sensors from the stock header? Usually I've found that O2 sensors like to be hot in order to remove easily.

4. Are there any other steps/info/tips that y'all could bestow on me to make this an easy install?

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
you really need to read the thread on aftermarket headers. this covers it all. the black widow has the perfect tube dia.
shipping was painless too. just buy it direct from them, not ebay. it ships that day or next.
forum.concours.org

Aftermarket headers

currently out of stock for black round stainless
forum.concours.org forum.concours.org
 
maverick9611 said:
you really need to read the thread on aftermarket headers. this covers it all. the black widow has the perfect tube dia.
shipping was painless too. just buy it direct from them, not ebay. it ships that day or next.
forum.concours.org

Aftermarket headers

currently out of stock for black round stainless
forum.concours.org forum.concours.org
Click to expand...
Thanks. Wish I would've read that thread before I bought my Delk system. I'll sand down the OD on the collector if I have to. It's always something with this stuff, lol.
 
Why not just return it and get the BW? The build quality is impressive and as Steve said it's the best design for our bike.. Just my 2c.
 
I ordered my full system from Delk well over a year ago. I installed the slip on as soon as it came. I'm very satisfied with the slip on, and now I'm finally getting around to install their header and get my ECU flashed. I work a lot and I have the Delk header already sitting in the garage. If there is too much material that's causing a fitment issue, then we'll grind her down a bit. I really want to install the header for more sound and less heat. I'll get some more power too, as that has been shown with dyno runs with the Delk full system.
 
Road Runner said:
I assume the same (i.e., BW header) can mount to my Area P muffler; yes? If so, I might go this route ...
Click to expand...
Disregard my question. I found where Steve (SiSF), on May 28, 2020, recommended this setup in the "Aftermarket headers" thread. Thx Steve!

I already have his Mtn. Runner Prem. flash ...
 
Road Runner said:
I assume the same (i.e., BW header) can mount to my Area P muffler; yes? If so, I might go this route ...yup as long as muffler/midpipe mount in stock location. i bought the bw headers seperate and ,mounted them to my two brothers can/midpipe. perfect fit. then changed my mind and got the bw can/midpipe later. perfect fit
Click to expand...
 
I found a discussion and decided to attach it here.
It goes well with recent discussions on header systems.
NOTE: At the time of the discussion, the Black Widow Header System was not available.

Pipes and Power​

forum.concours.org

Pipes and Power

I've had this conversation with 3 folks recently, so I figured it would be a relevant post. Many folks see dyno charts from aftermarket headers and they want that extra power. Often it doesn't work out as you'ld hope. First, you need to define what the majority of your riding consists of, and...
forum.concours.org forum.concours.org

Ride safe, Ted
 
After reading that, here are the current headers that are easily available.

This list will give you a good idea of the RPM range in which these headers are the most efficient.
{If you assume that small head pipes deliver peak low RPM power and big head pipes deliver peak high rpm power}
I realize that header design is a lot more than just head pipe diameter.
My intention here is only to offer information (and maybe stir some discussion). :sneaky:

Ride safe, Ted

Putting it all together.
..The OD of the head pipes on a OEM C-14 system are,,,,,,,,(approx.) 1 3/8" {35 MM}. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,(stock)
..The OD of the head pipes on a OEM ZX-14 system are,,,, (approx.) 1 1/2" (38 MM).,,,,,,,,,,,,{1/8" (3 MM) bigger than stock}
..The OD of the head pipes on a Black Widow system are (approx.) 1 1/2" (38 MM). ,,,,,,,,,,,,{1/8" (3 MM) bigger than stock}
..The OD of the head pipes on a OEM ZX-14R system are (approx.) 1 11/16" (42/43 MM). {5/16" (8 MM) bigger than stock}
..The OD of the head pipes on a Delkevic system are,,,,,,,,, (approx.) 1 11/16" (42/43 MM). {5/16" (8 MM) bigger than stock}
..The OD of the head pipes on a Full Area P system are,,,,, (approx.) 1 3/4" (44 MM). ,,,,,,,,,,,.{3/8" (9 MM) bigger than stock}
 
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I have the full Delkevic system. Just curious if anyone knows if the pipe walls are thicker on some than others, so that the inside diameters might not be in exact correlation to the OD?
 
In most cases, aftermarket headers are probably thinner walled than OEM systems.
1 reason is to decrease weight.
Another reason is; OEM systems are built for the life to the bike, and aftermarket is not necessarily designed with that in mind.

By the way, most don't realize that increasing the diameter slightly, causes a more drastic increase in flow than the slight change would indicate.
Bottom line is the Area % increases more than the OD %.
I can't put that into words appropriately, but a change of as little as the 9MM [OD] increase of an Area P, increases the square area about 70%,
{I think} and the the flow capability increases even more rapidly!

ie; {Trying to calculate}
stock / 1 3/8" OD / area of each head pipe is about 1.49 square inches.
Area P / 1 3/4" OD (3/8" [25%] bigger OD than stock) / area of each head pipe increases to about 2.41 square inches [64% more area than stock].

Ride safe, Ted {Someone "please" check my math}
 
Last edited:
I just installed one on my bike last weekend. Love it so far! I have a 18" Delk CF oval I ran with the stock header on it and it sounds great.
I'm finding it pulls much stronger in mid throttle with Steve's MRP flash than the full Muzzy ZX14 exhaust I just removed. I think I'm going to like this setup much better for all around riding, though the Muzzy was allot of fun after 6K rpm, just louder from idle on up.
 
turbojoe78 said:
I just installed one on my bike last weekend. Love it so far! I have a 18" Delk CF oval I ran with the stock header on it and it sounds great.
I'm finding it pulls much stronger in mid throttle with Steve's MRP flash than the full Muzzy ZX14 exhaust I just removed. I think I'm going to like this setup much better for all around riding, though the Muzzy was allot of fun after 6K rpm, just louder from idle on up.
Click to expand...

Is it wrong for me to say "told ya so" ?!!!!

Steve
 
NOTE: I'm not saying that the Area P nor the Delkevic aren't good headers.
Their definitely well built/quality units.
* The Area P seems to make the most HP of any system we've seen runs on.
** I feel that the Delk's are an inexpensive eversion of the Area P. {peak hp vs optimal power curve; and may make more peak HP than the BW}

I just feel that the BW {or early OEM ZX-14} headers are more effective on the street for normal riding.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
connie_rider said:
The Delk's are an inexpensive eversion of the Area P. {& may make more HP than the BW}

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
The Delkevic header is not a in "inexpensive version" of the Area P. The Area P is a tri-Y header. The Delkevic is a 4 into 1 reproduction of the zx14r header. The Delkevic header is a poor header for the build, tuning, and usage of a heavy, shaft driven, highly geared sport touring motorcycle.

The Black Widow header, is in ALL respects of design the "smaller brother" of the AreaP header. IMO it is much better suited for anyone who isn't spending the majority of their time bouncing the tach needle off the rev limiter.

Steve
 
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Good point. I was trying to express that the Delk, {with it's design/bigger head pipes/cylinder pairing} is a cheaper version of a Peak RPM header.
ie; I think the design would tend toward peak HP rather than an optimal Torque/power curve for street riding.
{it costs a lot less than the Area P, and "may" make more peak HP}.
{In my previous note, I was trying to express that in one line}. o_O

Like you, I'm convinced that the BW is optimal for street use.

Ride safe, Ted
 
thats why i went bw. no way, i will use top end power at the dragon and surrounding loops.
 

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I Feel Fizzy said:
I put a full Delkevic system on my 2018. Only issue I had was getting it to seal where the 4 into 1 pipe attaches to the rear pipe, even with the sealant they supply. It still leaks. I took it off a couple times and tried heat silicone, still no luck. I spoke with a tuner that had the Delkevic and he said they made the metal flange too thick there, so it doesn't draw in to seal properly. If it happens with yours just know it's par for the course. I'd be intersted to know if you get yours to seal.
Click to expand...
Just an update on this: I was able to get it sealed. I moved the clamp and put high-temp silicone on the outside of the clamp, filling in the slots, then put the clamp back on and it stopped the leak.
 
Oh yes, I've been riding it and I have Ivan's flash. Love it. The other headers may indeed be better on the low end, but I don't have another bike to compare it to, and the Connie isn't weak down there anyway. The price was good and the build quality looks good, and nothing wrong with a high end rush now and then anyway!

Biggest change I made lately was a Penske triple-clicker on the rear and Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 cartridges in the front. What a difference! I have Traxxion and Penske on my FZ1 and am sold on them. Still have the 2001 FZ1 with 114,000 miles. Puts a smile on my face every single time I ride it!
 
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