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Advice on taking rims off C14

S

setonj

Big Wheel
I have 16K miles on the 2010 C14 and am looking for new sneakers. Are there any obstacles that I need to know about for getting the rims off?

 
I'll jump in here and add that I'm removing the rims this weekend for the first time. Since my owners manual has nothing in it about removing the wheels I'm wondering how hard it will be. I've removed lots of wheels over the years but don't want to make any expensive mistakes. Thanks for any info.
 
put the bike's center stand on a 2X10 or something similar if you don't have a lift.

Front wheel
take off your calipers, loosen the right side axle pinch bolts.  Stick a 13/16 spark plug socket on a long extension (backwards).  Put it in the axle on the right side and loosen the axle.  Use a floor jack or something similar under the header to raise the front end of the bike until the rear wheel just barely touches the floor.  Don't put too much pressure on the rear wheel and you could manage to release the centerstand.  That would be bad.  If this is an ABS bike remove the ABS sensor (or at least be careful not to damage it when you remove the wheel).  support the wheel with your foot and remove axle.  You will probably have to tilt the wheel slightly to remove it.  Or you can remove the fender which I never do.  Reassemble after your sneaker is on.

Rear wheel
remove the caliper and ABS sensor.  Remove cotter pin in the axle nut.  Remove the axle nut and while supporting the rear wheel with your foot remove the axle.  The rear wheel will not just fall off, you will have to wiggle it a little.  put your new shoe on the wheel.  Before installing the wheel onto the final drive clean any debris from the splines and lube with a good moly grease.  reassemble in reverse. 

 
Thanks Lonnie,
I have a service manual on order but decided to put on new tires before a trip to Wisconsin after Memorial Day. The almost constant rain I see on the weather map over the mid-west made me realize I might need something better than the OEM tires.
TJ
 
I put my centerstand on a 2 x 8 (with help) and that allows me to remove both wheels without any problems or taking the front fender off.

I also use a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 on it to keep the front end off the ground while changing the tire. Place the jack towards the front of the engine.
 
Anyone have the torque specs for the bits and peices on this precedure, I don't have a service manuel yet.

Thanks
 
1 Front Axle Clamp Bolts 15 ft lbs  AL
2 Front Axle Nut  93.7 ft lbs
3 Front Tire Pressure Measurement Sensor Bolt 40 in·lb
4 Rear Axle Nut  93.7 ft lbs
5 Rear Tire Pressure Measurement Sensor Bolt 40 in·lb
6. Caliper Bracket (ABS Equipped Models)
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two time to ensure even tightening.
 
I just bought a 2008 C14.  The PO had PR2's installed, but after running the bike about 200 miles, I notice the front is mounted so that it rotates the wrong way! The tread looks "right", but the tire rotation arrow on the sidewall is going the wrong way.  There is now some noticable cupping.

Anyway, could I just unmount the rim and flip it?  Or is the rim mountable in only one direction?  I don't have the skills or tools to un-mount and re-mount the tire, and there are no local shops I trust (yet). 

So, can I just flip the rim around?
 
I'm not sure if changing the rim around would cause any issue.  The factory does put directional arrows on the rim also, so I would just bite the expense/time and have the tire remounted.
 
fragment said:
I just bought a 2008 C14.  The PO had PR2's installed, but after running the bike about 200 miles, I notice the front is mounted so that it rotates the wrong way! The tread looks "right", but the tire rotation arrow on the sidewall is going the wrong way.  There is now some noticable cupping.
Click to expand...

mad.gif
Bitchslap6.gif
 
Well, the tire and the rim both had the direction arrows the same way, so the whole thing was reversed.  With the help of my neighbour who owns a 74 BMW 750, we got it swapped around.

The handling effect was a dramatic change for the better!
 
Had new Pilot Road 3s mounted on my 2011 C14 by the local dealer. After 6000 miles the OEM tires were scalloped in front and flat on rear and was handling a bit scary. Got it up to 100 and knew the tires had not been balanced to perfection. I bought a static balancer from Mark Parnes products (great product) dismounted the wheels and rebalanced. Perfect.

http://www.marcparnes.com/Kawasaki_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

ONE QUESTION:
On remounting the front wheel, I pretty much reversed the order of removal. I did not loosen the LEFT pinch bolts or axle nut. I torqued the axle bolt to 94'lbs and all is well. Then I read in the shop manuel to loosen the LEFT  pinch bolts and axle nut, replace the axle and torque the axle nut on to the axle bolt. Is there any conceivable problem with the way I did it by torquing the axle bolt?

After 600 miles I am very pleased with the dry pavement performance of the PR3s. However, living in Las Vegas it may be a while before I can test them on wet pavement. Thanks in advance for your reply.

Oh, and thanks to Capt Bob, as I stumbled on your specs for the suspension set up. I'm 250lbs, and very pleased with the result.

One more thing out of context. I was displeased with the auto return to btm feature on the electric windshield. This didn't seem right, because when I return to base the first thing I want to do is clean the windshield of bugs. This means either leaving the bike running or in the on position (motor off) which is discouraged. Somewhere in these forums I stumbled on the secret that's not published in the owners manual. Hold the windshield button in the up position when turning off the engine. It stays up! Easier to clean.
 
Elektra,

Whenever you deviate from the manual you may come into some unforeseen problems. In this case you may have come to your torque value prematurely.
 
elektra said:
Had new Pilot Road 3s mounted on my 2011 C14 by the local dealer. After 6000 miles the OEM tires were scalloped in front and flat on rear and was handling a bit scary. Got it up to 100 and knew the tires had not been balanced to perfection. I bought a static balancer from Mark Parnes products (great product) dismounted the wheels and rebalanced. Perfect.

http://www.marcparnes.com/Kawasaki_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

ONE QUESTION:
On remounting the front wheel, I pretty much reversed the order of removal. I did not loosen the LEFT pinch bolts or axle nut. I torqued the axle bolt to 94'lbs and all is well. Then I read in the shop manuel to loosen the LEFT  pinch bolts and axle nut, replace the axle and torque the axle nut on to the axle bolt. Is there any conceivable problem with the way I did it by torquing the axle bolt?

After 600 miles I am very pleased with the dry pavement performance of the PR3s. However, living in Las Vegas it may be a while before I can test them on wet pavement. Thanks in advance for your reply.

Oh, and thanks to Capt Bob, as I stumbled on your specs for the suspension set up. I'm 250lbs, and very pleased with the result.

One more thing out of context. I was displeased with the auto return to btm feature on the electric windshield. This didn't seem right, because when I return to base the first thing I want to do is clean the windshield of bugs. This means either leaving the bike running or in the on position (motor off) which is discouraged. Somewhere in these forums I stumbled on the secret that's not published in the owners manual. Hold the windshield button in the up position when turning off the engine. It stays up! Easier to clean.
Click to expand...


asking the same question in multiple places makes it very difficult to give an answer effectively, or for you to find the response unless you look all those places you posted the question, just saying...
I answered your querry here:
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,28547.msg122009.html#new
 
rear  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJ1kDWLiRDc

front  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74hUL2WrX-Y
 
I have found that the easiest way (for me) to remove the front wheel is to put a couple of tractor wheel weights on the rear rack while the bike is on the centerstand. This puts the bike on the back wheel and popping the front off is a cinch. Just remove the bolts on either side of the fender so it can rotate up a little in the front and the wheel can clear it. You don't need to take it off altogether.
 
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