• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Am I nuts to be thinking about replacing my tires?

stewarth

stewarth

Scooter
Am I nuts to be thinking about replacing my tires?

I road 6700 miles in 2010 on my the OEMs that came with my 2010 ABS. Unfortunately a lot of slab commuting and up and down to Maine. Which has left my rear tire with a 'flat' spot where you would expect it. Plenty of tread left on front and rear, but its packed away for winter storage, so can't share a photo. I guess I could try measure it, would that help?

With all the tire threads.....it got me to wondering at what point do you think about replacing tires, even if they are not worn out? I've never had a touring bike, my sports bikes tended to wear very evenly. I've considered the question has the handling changed to help answer this, but to what degree...I can't really tell, it been a smooth transition.

I know new tires will feel great.....but do I really need them? Well, while you ponder that...off to shovel more snow.
 
I am not much help on C14 tires but here are some observations I have made about tires on the C10 that may help.
Sport tires are very thin over all.  If the tread is gone in one area then you almost have to replace the tire NOW or it will go through to the cord and be very dangerous.

How, where and at what temperature you ride makes more difference to how your tire wares then you think.  Love to brake hard, kiss that front goodbye sooner.  Love to take off hard the back is toasting each time.  Have to ride the slab all the time expect back center flats.  Ride in high temps your mileage will suffer.

I would replace any tire that the tread is less then a 1/16" or so in any area.  Otherwise you are not going to pass water out well in the rain.  Also most flats I have had have been on a tire with very little tread left.  Most times it is the back tire.

From what I have heard OEM C14 tires did not last long.  I think 7k may not be all that bad.  I am sure someone will come along and talk more about what will do better for you. 
 
The old way of checking tires was to use a penny as a gauge.  If you place the penny in the grooves and you can see the top of Lincolns head then you should replace the tire.  Approximately 3/32"

Now this being said  some run their tires bald and flat some replace them much sooner. But one thing I do know is if things are bugging you to the point you are worrying about it then do something about it. 
 
It's always hard to make the decision to change out the tire(s) when there is plenty of tread in other areas, like the sides.  I live in Kansas so that is always the case but I don't tend to take chances with bike tires.  There are only two of them.  :)
 
Thanks for the input, I never knew about the penny method. I just walked out and tried it....WOW..here I was thinking I had plenty of tread left. Using the penny I can see Lincoln's head clearly for most of the tire.

Looks like I'm getting new tires when the snow melts. And I agree, better to be safe than sorry, especially since I ride rain or sunshine.
 
Stewart said:
Using the penny I can see Lincoln's head clearly for most of the tire.
Click to expand...

Thats the very top of Lincolns head. Not the entire head. its that 2/32 from the edge of the penny to the top of the head. Since 50% of my mileage is riding back and forth to work, my rear especially always wears out down the center, and has plenty left on the side.
 
I need a new rear tire and just ordered one. This is not to say anyone did it wrong. Just to show the penny trick.  My tire on the sides. My tire in the middle.

Tread covers the top the head. Means more than 2/32 tread depth left.
IMGP6212.JPG


Head showing, time for a new rear tire.
IMGP6213.JPG
 
Thats the very top of Lincolns head.
Click to expand...

Yup, down the center I could clearly see the top of his head, then on the sides the very top was covered depending on which side of the tire. Just like the photos in the other post.
 
Yep. And to complete the photo show n tell here is that same tire showing the wear bar.  Running my finger over the wear bar it was not quite even with the tire surface. Got changed yesterday, mounted back up today, along with a bike wash and a short ride to scrub it in a little.

IMGP6215.JPG


 
Slybones  I have about 14000 on the front.  2 rear tires to the 1 front.  Going to get the front changed tomorrow.




I plan to run the rear on the bike a little longer then switch to the other and run it out probably at the "Bun Cooler"
 
There's a method of putting your nuts on your tires to see if they need to be replaced?  The nuts or the tires?  I'm not sure if I'd do that for a penny.... just sayin'.
 
When your tread starts to wear down, your tires resistance to hydroplaning on wet roads is significantly decreased. While it may still appear to grip fine in the dry, the real danger comes when you have to ride in rain. Also, I think you'll find that the rear tire will "square off" and the front tire will start to develop "cupping" or "feathering" of the tread blocks. Since it happens so gradually, you generally don't notice how it has impacted handling until you put on a new set. After mounting new tires, you'll suddenly notice the bike is more responsive to countersteering inputs and much more willing to to turn and lean in.

It's also interesting to note that approximately 70% of tire failures occur in the last 30% of the tires life, and if you have ever pulled off a worn out tire and felt how thin the carcass is in the center of the tread, it's easy to understand why they will puncture easier when the tire is worn. There simply is a lot less rubber to resist a nail or sharp object penetrating it.
 
Good excuse to get rid of the oem tires that really are holding your bike back. Virtually any name brand sport touring tire out there will be an upgrade. I changed mine out before they had a thousand miles on the 'stones'. What an improvement getting Michelins on my 14...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top