Maybe it has been answered or done, but is there a way to get rid of the fob and use a regular key on the C14? I have one fob and 3 of Ed's remote fobs. My Kawasaki fob is damaged and from time to time the dash will flash "No Transponder". So, is there a way to take the fob out of the system and use a key only? Or a system like Guard Dawg system?
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Another Kipass question.
- Thread starter ronzrx115022
- Start date
https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/turning-off-kipass.49963/
Opinions vary, I doubt there is an easy, practical, inexpensive, secure way to do it.
However if you read through the thread link just above, I think MOB gives the easiest way to accomplish that. (as did Bud while I typed)
However, I'm pretty sure that anybody with a big screw driver a hammer and a wrench could steal your bike...but you asked.
Opinions vary, I doubt there is an easy, practical, inexpensive, secure way to do it.
However if you read through the thread link just above, I think MOB gives the easiest way to accomplish that. (as did Bud while I typed)
However, I'm pretty sure that anybody with a big screw driver a hammer and a wrench could steal your bike...but you asked.
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So, Mama Kaw has built a bike that if something that you cant control damages the fob, and you only have 1 fob to begin with, your only recourse is to drop $1200.00 or so dollars to get your bike up and running. That is really shitty of the manufacture to do. With that being said, is there any way to get the display to read when passive remote is used to unlock the key and start the bike. I am the second owner, bought it from the original owner. He said he only had the 1 fob, that he had never been given the other fob or the card.
Just bought a new FOB and emergency card (flat key thingy) and key. Lost all of mine. Wouldn't you know it, as soon as new ones show up and get paid for, I find all stock ones. Not sure if I'm gonna have them programed and keep or sell them. Fob was $348 and blank key $22 and emergency fob (flat key thingy) for was $50.
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Firstly: https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/cloned-fobs-from-e-ramberger.57066/
Secondly - lose all fobs for any vehicle and it's trouble.
Thirdly - if you used the passive fob/immobiliser/flat key thingy to start the bike you don't need the display to tell you that, surely.
The active fob is read by the KIPASS ECU. If lost while riding the display will show NO TRANSPONDER. The passive fob/immobiliser/flat key thing is read by the ign switch/lock ECU. The KIPASS system knows whether the Active or Passive function has been used to turn the key On. If the passive fob is lost while riding, the display will not show a warning. After turning the key off, you have about 10 seconds to turn the ign back on again before the system deactivates, which happens when the key symbol on the display disappears.
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Thank you all. SO, best bet is to lock up the 1 fob that I have and never use it unless I need more passive remotes to be programed .
Sounds like your KFOB has a loose connection.
I had thought of making a key system by making the FOB a permanent part of the bike. Adding a key switch and external battery source to turn it off when not in use. It would not bypass the KIPASS. You could hard mount the FOB in a secure location, add a key switch in another location, and then make as many keys as you see fit. The FOB would have wires soldered onto the circuit board so that it would connect to an external battery box and the switch. Very simple really and I would use two lithium AA batteries to make sure it starts in the cold. You could also add a LED indicator to lite when the system is enabled.
This way, you would never ever lose the FOB, and your C14 will have many keys as a backup. You would still need to punch the stove knob to start the bike.
No - you need to get Ed Ramberger to clone the passive part of your active fob. You can have as many as you like. Just ensure the passive function works by removing the fob battery when using passive function before you send it to him.
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If you decide to sell them, please contact me.
The 08 +09 both came with 2 active fobs. In 2010 to 2023, they all came with an active fob AND a passive fob. You could purchase a passive fob for around $30 bucks and have it programed to the ecu. Some of us have used the services of Ed ramsbuger (I think that's his last name) to clone your fob onto a small chip. I put mine into the index finger of my riding gloves, just in case. There's a thread with his info here somewhere.
The point being there's inexpensive preventive measures out there to keep one from having to spend BIG bucks from an oopsy. I get a chuckle everytime I hear it only came with 1 fob. The passive ones get missed placed.
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My Fob(s)* aren't damaged and I get that message occasionally, usually when it's cold outside but not always. If it happens more than once on a trip I replace the battery in the FOB. If it were ever to become an annoyance, I'd start the bike with the RFID chip because then it would quit checking for a transponder.
*Either before cloning was available or before I knew it was available, I had lost two active FOBs. The first one I know how I lost it, the one I replaced it with, I have no idea how I lost it. I now have two more active fobs and two passive card fobs. I have 2 long yellow lanyards with my phone number and "$Reward$ printed attached to my traveling FOBs (1 active, 1 card passive) and I keep them in my deepest pants pocket when riding/traveling. The spare active and passive fobs are in a zip lock bag with a yellow paper indicating that they are the emergency FOBs so that if needed, when I call home and ask that they be FEDEXed to my location, my son will be able to easily identify them.
Despite the extra expense I've incurred by buying 3 active FOBs (currently possessing only 2) and one card passive FOB and then making sure my dealer accurately got every thing programmed correctly (they usually forget or don't know that there is a RFID chip in the active FOB), I still love KIPASS.
The ease of just turning off the bike and walking away knowing that it can't be hot wired, and the ease of just climbing on and turning on the stoveknob without fumbling around with keys has me spoiled. I'm a just a spoiled softie I guess, not a real man with lots of keys. I keep my man card locked away with my emergency FOBs so it can't be confiscated.
I do believe there is a potentially misleading statement (provided above by Freddy) in the Kawasaki diagram. It says that "The process begins when the [Active] FOB is in range". I have no documentation to prove it, but I don't think there are any signals sent or anything really going on until the stoveknob key is depressed and then after that the diagram is correct. Obviously the active FOB needs to be listening for the signal (blue arrow step 1) so that it can respond (blue arrow step 2), but other than that "listening" nothing is happening until the stoveknob key is depressed.
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I do believe there is a potentially misleading statement (provided above by Freddy) in the Kawasaki diagram. It says that "The process begins when the [Active] FOB is in range". I have no documentation to prove it, but I don't think there are any signals sent or anything really going on until the stoveknob key is depressed and then after that the diagram is correct. Obviously the active FOB needs to be listening for the signal (blue arrow step 1) so that it can respond (blue arrow step 2), but other than that "listening" nothing is happening until the stoveknob key is depressed.
Agreed. That should be step 1 - with an arrow going from the Key Ecu via the Smart ECU (KIPASS) to the fob and the others shown as steps 2 to 7.
That illustration is from the KDS training manual. It does not have an illustration for Passive mode, but 4 would be 1; 3 would be 2; 5&6 as 3&4.
As has been mentioned elsewhere, Kawaski haven't helped us by using different names for the same part depending on whether you're reading the Owner's Manual, FSM, KDS instruction manual, KDS training manual or the spare parts fiche.
Agreed. That should be step 1 - with an arrow going from the Key Ecu via the Smart ECU (KIPASS) to the fob and the others shown as steps 2 to 7.
That illustration is from the KDS training manual. It does not have an illustration for Passive mode, but 4 would be 1; 3 would be 2; 5&6 as 3&4.
As has been mentioned elsewhere, Kawaski haven't helped us by using different names for the same part depending on whether you're reading the Owner's Manual, FSM, KDS instruction manual, KDS training manual or the spare parts fiche.
My Fob(s)* aren't damaged and I get that message occasionally, usually when it's cold outside but not always. If it happens more than once on a trip I replace the battery in the FOB. If it were ever to become an annoyance, I'd start the bike with the RFID chip because then it would quit checking for a transponder.
The 2 white round contacts on the R half where the battery tabs sit can become corroded or worn over time. Check yours.
The 2 white round contacts on the R half where the battery tabs sit can become corroded or worn over time. Check yours.
That is for sure!
Correct. The Active FOB must be in range first (maybe step zero?). As soon as you hit the stove knob, the bike sends out a signal. If the active FOB is close enough, it responds by chirping back. After that, the bike comes to life.
You can confirm this by listening in with a portable AM radio tuned into the low end of the band. There is a quick series of chirping sounds that the radio detects. Noise to us, but data to the bike and active FOB.
I would have them all programmed for the bike. IMHO you can never have too many fobs. ( I got my active and 3 passives for both my C 14s)
I own several bikes. These were bought , in order, 1977 KZ 650- new from the dealer 2 keys. I still have them. 1978 KZ 1000 LTD- used from dealer 2 keys. I still have them. 1999 ZRX 1100 new from dealer-2 keys. I still have them. 1976 KZ 900- used from original owner 2 keys. I still have them. 2013 Concours 14 - used from original owner, 1 fob ( he stated he never got the other fob or the credit card fob from the dealer) . The fob is damaged. I had Ed R> clone me 3 small fobs. They work. Im just looking for other avenues to keep my bike on the road without having to drop a small fortune for an electronic box that will never last as long as a key will.
Thank you. I will.My Fob(s)* aren't damaged and I get that message occasionally, usually when it's cold outside but not always. If it happens more than once on a trip I replace the battery in the FOB. If it were ever to become an annoyance, I'd start the bike with the RFID chip because then it would quit checking for a transponder.
The 2 white round contacts on the R half where the battery tabs sit can become corroded or worn over time. Check yours.