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Bafflectomy

willyp

Iron Butt
What kind of extension are you guys using that doesn't have either setscrews or some kind of chuck to hold the bit?  :-\
 

Scubadoguk

Mini Bike
Forum Subscriber
I used a bit of stick the dog brought home :) its a 5/16 hole saw fitting, all the usual extensions were 1/4 chuck
 

willyp

Iron Butt
Seems odd that it would be made for a hole saw but not have any provision to lock the hole saw to the extension.
 

Jorge

Member
Member
My hole saw has a 1/4 hex shank. So... I used a driver bit extension (actually two) and used duct tape (real duct tape, the sticky aluminum stuff) to hold it all together - it worked well :great:

Jorge
 

Tele130

Bicycle
If I remember correctly, the one I sent around for everyone to use has a set screw to secure the bit to the extension.
 

willyp

Iron Butt
Ok, now I understand. I do have lots of extensions for 1/4" hex bits, some of them don't lock the bit. I wasn't aware of any hole-saw arbor that would fit a 1/4" hex though, thus my confusion.
 

Scubadoguk

Mini Bike
Forum Subscriber
As a tribute to red green and for everyone delight  :)) the Indiana hole saw extension  ;)
 

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Mettler1

Sport Tourer
  Well, I did the bafflectomy (1 1/8 in.) and have done a couple of 60 mile rides. Doesn't sound to bad but I think I prefer the stock mufflers.  I hate to say it but I'm older than dirt and prefer a quiet bike.  ???  Shoulda dun this many years ago in my younger days.  >:D
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Yea, I understand,, but, does it feel any different?
More torque?

More importantly,,,, Can you outrun the young guys?  <evil grin>

Ride safe, Ted
 

Big_Jim59

Bicycle
This thread got me thinking so I went out to the shop and shined a light up the old Wazoo. It's not pretty but the Bafflectomy has been done with what looks like stabs with a rebar or several dull drill bits. It's opened up but the edges, if they were accessible, would tear your panty hose. Which goes to show, If your bike is around long enough it will have the proper mods.
 

Mettler1

Sport Tourer
connie_rider said:
Yea, I understand,, but, does it feel any different?
More torque?

More importantly,,,, Can you outrun the young guys?  <evil grin>

Ride safe, Ted
 
  More torque? I don't think so but than again I have Steve's torque cams.  :great: But  I have always known noise = more HP!! :)
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Ahh, great minds, think alike!

But::: More importantly,,,, Does it help you outrun the young guys?  <evil grin>  >:D

Ride safe, Ted
 

Mettler1

Sport Tourer
connie_rider said:
Ahh, great minds, think alike!

But::: More importantly,,,, Does it help you outrun the young guys?  <evil grin>  >:D

Ride safe, Ted

  Not anymore. I prefer they get the speeding ticket!! :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
 

jettawreck

Crotch Rocket
Ok, the hole saw got used today. I took about 30 seconds a side with a couple minutes to extract the slug out of the saw. Slick and easy and done.
Who is next?
If no takers it gets sent back to its generous owner.
Thank you.

Edit: Got the 2005 out for its final ride and fill of fuel for the year before snow. A bit more exhaust bark than the '02, especially at idle. Rather authoritive sounding under acceleration, again a bit more than my '02. Perhaps part of the reason is the 1 1/8" hole saw takes out the entire diameter of the exhaust outlet, whereas if some are punctured or cut with smaller size bits some baffeling left.
 

kdsmalljr

Member
Member
If you do this mod, are there any other changes (jetting, idle, etc.) that need to be made? Have the 7th gear, rejetting, and 2 minute mod from SISF on bike already.
 

Cra-z1000

Member
Member
kds said:
If you do this mod, are there any other changes (jetting, idle, etc.) that need to be made? Have the 7th gear, rejetting, and 2 minute mod from SISF on bike already.

No .
 

millerized

Crotch Rocket
Good to see this is still being done.
So much BS and name calling when this first started out many years ago.
Now the guy is a guru for things both C10 and C14.

Long way from Bubba behind a WaffleHouse.
 

texson

Mini Bike
cra-z1000 said:
kds said:
If you do this mod, are there any other changes (jetting, idle, etc.) that need to be made? Have the 7th gear, rejetting, and 2 minute mod from SISF on bike already.

No .

I disagree, with all due respect.  It wasn't until I did the bafflectomy that I began getting deacceleration pop.  It may be a coincidense, but I don't think so.  Deacceleration pop is mainly due to a lean fuel mixture which can be caused by a variety of things, but I find it odd that it began happening the day I did the pipes.  In fact, I still have the same problem even though I have since switched to Delkevics.
 

jettawreck

Crotch Rocket
No jetting changes needed on the 2002 or the 2005 and I did the baffelectomy on that one after SISF carb work and exhaust cam sprocket, etc.
 

pbfoot

Crotch Rocket
My 06 popped on deceleration after the bafflectomy.  I backed the pilot screws out another half a turn and eliminated the pop.
 

mattchewn

Member
Member
I disagree, with all due respect.  It wasn't until I did the bafflectomy that I began getting deacceleration pop.  It may be a coincidense, but I don't think so.  Deacceleration pop is mainly due to a lean fuel mixture which can be caused by a variety of things, but I find it odd that it began happening the day I did the pipes.  In fact, I still have the same problem even though I have since switched to Delkevics.
[/quote]
Actually Rick,
The decal pop is NOT from a lean condition but actually a RICH condition. Lean would mean no fuel to burn in the exhaust. Since all bikes are set up rich from the factory one of the only things that keeps them from popping on decal is the back pressure of the stock restrictive exhaust systems. the bafflectomy removed some of that restriction and there you are now it pops!
Matt

( I make my C14 pop on decal on purpose! I like it! )
 

texson

Mini Bike
Ok, so I was close.

I actually stopped the pop when I installed the block off plates, which to me, means I had an air leak in all that unnecessary plumbing.  The air leak, to my way of thinking, would have leaned out the mixture.  Be that as it may, the pop started again at some point and I don't know why.  I just live with it until I one day get PBFoot to adjust my pilot screws.
 

texson

Mini Bike
This is where I obtained my understanding of the decel problem.  I think my experience with the block off plates indicate I was running a little lean, which, according to the explanation below, would make sense.



If you think about the mechanics of what is going on upon decel, it makes perfect sense:

You start out with an engine that is turning high RPM with a carb that is open, flowing freely. Next, you close that slide. This has the effect of creating a tremendous vaccuum in the intake manifold (CHOKE!). This vaccuum does curious things:

1. It pulls air and fuel from wherever it can--including the idle and low speed jetting in the carb.

2. To counteract the vaccuum, air will take the path of least resistance--including sucking exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap (the brief period of time that the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time.

So what does this mean? Well, now you have a disproportionate rich mixture heading for the cylinder AND what little oxygen is drawn in is further diluted by gases that are coming back into the chamber from the exhaust valve. The result is poor, incomplete combustion! Depending on the temperature of the exhaust pipe and gases, reignition is possible once this mixture is introduced into a more oxygen rich environment. This produces the "pop."

Why does a lean running engine have a tendency to excessively pop? The exhaust gas temperature of a lean engine is substantially higher than one that is running on the rich side ( an EGT probe will show this). Therefore, the high EGT serves to heat the pipe more and the gases themselves become a much better source of re-ignition. By richening things up, you are cooling down the exhaust temp and therefore reducing potential re-ignition sources.

Any 4 stroke engine--even those that are flawlessly tuned will pop on decel. It is harmless, but can be annoying--granted. However, I would never alter the jetting of an otherwise performing motorcycle to get rid of it. Go by the seat of your pants and the color of your spark plug rather than the popping as an indication of the jetting of your scoot!
 

cYMRU53

Big Wheel
After reading the many posts on this subject I have decided to undertake this mod on the "Grey Flicker". I will update on the results.  :motonoises:
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
I had Cobra's on my C-10 and got tired of the loud.
Installed stock with baffelectomy recently.

With the Cobra's the bike had noticible decell pop.
Didn't notice it with the baffelectomy. hmmmm
(May because it is so much quieter though)..

Ride safe, Ted
 

bobct

Member
Member
I got the cobras now. Not too loud. Years before installing them I put block off plates on and had bafflectomized OEMS and started to got the popping on deaccel. Now with the cobras the popping is a little louder.
So if I'm riding in neighborhoods early morning or later at night I try not to deaccel too much by downshifting.
But twist of the wrist in rural and highways and the cobras growl nicely.
 

VTconnie

Crotch Rocket
connie_rider said:
I had Cobra's on my C-10 and got tired of the loud.
Installed stock with baffelectomy recently.

With the Cobra's the bike had noticible decell pop.
Didn't notice it with the baffelectomy. hmmmm
(May because it is so much quieter though)..

Ride safe, Ted

After a long trip with 14" Delkevic's, I kinda wanted the OEM's with the bafflectomy back on there for that. But I also like having a nice exhaust note when traveling, sometimes people need to hear it.
 

gertler

Big Wheel
I know this post is a few years old but I wanted to give my 2 cents worth on it.
I recently took a chance and drilled a hole in the baffle of my exhaust. It is only a slightly louder but a little deeper in tone. I noticed on a recent trip with my wife and I and helmets that it resonated more than before. It was not annoying but it did hum in the helmet more than before. If this was all I noticed I'd say that it was worth the $20 I spent on the right sized hole drill bit. However I think others have noted a difference in acceleration. I did as well. It seemed to breath more freely in the midrange but I felt less torque, so honestly it felt less powerful. This is a drawback.
I was going for a better sound. I think the older I get and the more mechanical the more I like the sound of a motor. The four cylinders like these are smooth and do have their own feel and sound to them but to me it's not much more than a economy car. I also have a VFR750 and if I could make it as comfortable and practical as the connie I'd prefer it. Love the sound it has with my aftermarket pipes. I just want something with a little more grunt sound to it with a thumpy feel rather than a buzz. Just my opinion.
Other than that my connie is great and my wife loves it. It's a beast to get out of the garage and move around a parking lot but it's great once it gets going. I'll be sticking with it for some time I think.
 

SteveJ

Member
Member
Someone did a Dyno comparison a few years back. It showed 1-3 gains at all rpms on hp and torque. It also helped fix the torque slump just under 5k.
 

dimetraveler

Mini Bike
i did it and liked it,no regrets any body who wants to do it i will send you the the Bit
used  once at my convince.Snail mail as soon as i can.
 
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