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Bearing grease and mystery part in fork question

cragantler

Member
Member
So I have everything removed for my C-10 fork upgrade and steering bearings replacement.
2 questions:
This piece was on top of the left fork spring.
C5DD7788-5706-4559-BA06-146727DFC9C3.jpeg


Not on the right side. Not found in factory service manual. Had her for 14 years and never had the forks open☺️
For the steering bearings, what grease to use??
Standard wheel bearing grease? Blue,IIRC
Thanks.
As you can see, it was about time.
Thanks6D40044A-0147-432B-92C9-8572F96EE4A0.jpeg94D506B7-6D28-4C72-A956-02489EC74A89.jpeg
 

bobct

Member
Member
I used marine wheel bearing grease, the blue stuff just because that's what i had on hand from boat trailer days and thought it was a good idea in case water got into there which it shouldn't anyways. The extra plate you found in one fork?, I have no idea unless it was a spacer that was forgotten to put in the other fork or does it look like that spring was shortened, evidence of the spring being cut or grind marks?
 

cragantler

Member
Member
I used marine wheel bearing grease, the blue stuff just because that's what i had on hand from boat trailer days and thought it was a good idea in case water got into there which it shouldn't anyways. The extra plate you found in one fork?, I have no idea unless it was a spacer that was forgotten to put in the other fork or does it look like that spring was shortened, evidence of the spring being cut or grind marks?
Spring seems to be same length as right but haven’t measured as they’ll be yard art anyhow 😝
 

GeorgeRYoung

Guest
Guest
I believe the plate sits between the preload adjustor and the top of the spring. If it's missing the preload adjustor will do nothing.
 

GeorgeRYoung

Guest
Guest
Without the plate, the preload adjustor pokes down the center of the spring and does nothing. It will do the same nothing with a new spring as with the old. 'Sup to you.
 

Bud

Member
Member
I'm with George. You want your preload adjusters to work. If you only have one, get one for the other side.
 

cragantler

Member
Member
Now the million dollar question is, where can I get one?
Don’t know if a washer will suffice as this has the holes drilled in it.
According to the parts diagram, it looks like a washer. For a 2000 C-10.
6969A926-9C25-4487-AD8D-DD08BA7530F0.jpeg
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
922000 should be the part you want.
If someone doesn't have one,,, "order it".
That part "has" to be there, and a standard washer won't work, because the preload adjuster pushes down in the center.
(ie; Washers have a hole in the center)

Question; {for 14 years?} If that piece has not been in the fork, (and you haven't been inside of the fork), you had no preload adjustment on that fork.
In fact, the spring in that fork was resting against the fork cap instead of the adjuster so you lost about 1/2" of preload.
That would explain a lot of the sag/dive you had and why you couldn't get much adjustment.

Because your used to the soft springs and only had preload adjustment in 1 fork;
The Racetech Emulators and (stiffer ?) Springs are going to "greatly" increase your front end stiffness.
Explanation;
1) The Springs are stiffer.
2) You will now have preload on both forks.
3) The Emulator's are approx. 1/2" thick and the spring rests on top of them. (That 1/2" is more pre load)

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Hopefully your replacing the dust caps, seals, and bushings too?
Justa thought; Did you look in the bottom of the fairing for that spacer?
It could have easily fell out during fork cap/spring removal.
 
Last edited:

rwulf

Guest
Guest
You need one in each fork leg. Without the washer the spring will rest on
to fork cap, and the fork adjuster will do nothing. You could use a washer
the same thickness.
 

cragantler

Member
Member
922000 should be the part you want.
If someone doesn't have one,,, "order it".
That part "has" to be there, and a standard washer won't work, because the preload adjuster pushes down in the center.
(ie; Washers have a hole in the center)

Question; {for 14 years?} If that piece has not been in the fork, (and you haven't been inside of the fork), you had no preload adjustment on that fork.
In fact, the spring in that fork was resting against the fork cap instead of the adjuster so you lost about 1/2" of preload.
That would explain a lot of the sag/dive you had and why you couldn't get much adjustment.

Because your used to the soft springs and only had preload adjustment in 1 fork;
The Racetech Emulators and (stiffer ?) Springs are going to "greatly" increase your front end stiffness.
Explanation;
1) The Springs are stiffer.
2) You will now have preload on both forks.
3) The Emulator's are approx. 1/2" thick and the spring rests on top of them. (That 1/2" is more pre load)

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Hopefully your replacing the dust caps, seals, and bushings too?
Justa thought; Did you look in the bottom of the fairing for that spacer?
It could have easily fell out during fork cap/spring removal.
Ted, thanks for the information.
All of the replaceable internals of the forks, seals, bushings, caps and snap rings are being replaced with OEM, along with the steering head bearings.
I have the fairing completely off and did not hear anything hit the patio.
I’ll check again when I get home from work.
Thanks again, Doug
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Doug, (if you can't get the spacer) go to a hardware store and look for fender washers. (I have 1 in my hand).
It is 1 1/4" OD x 1/4" hole, & is about 1/16" thick.
(assuming that it fits easily into the fork tube) It would work perfectly for you.

Do NOT worry about the thickness. ie; It doesn't have to match the OEM exactly.
If your concerned with the 2 not matching, use fender washers in both fork tubes.
Problem solved..

Final thought; My only concern with the fender washer is it's thickness.
ie; (because it is so thin) it could (maybe/possibly) deform over time.
The solution to that is, put 2 of the fender washers in the Fork tube.

Ride safe, Ted
 

gr8scott

Member
Member
Doug, (if you can't get the spacer) go to a hardware store and look for fender washers. (I have 1 in my hand).
It is 1 1/4" OD x 1/4" hole, & is about 1/16" thick.
(assuming that it fits easily into the fork tube) It would work perfectly for you.

Do NOT worry about the thickness. ie; It doesn't have to match the OEM exactly.
If your concerned with the 2 not matching, use fender washers in both fork tubes.
Problem solved..

Final thought; My only concern with the fender washer is it's thickness.
ie; (because it is so thin) it could (maybe/possibly) deform over time.
The solution to that is, put 2 of the fender washers in the Fork tube.

Ride safe, Ted
I'd call that brilliant 👏 and would go with a pair at the top of both tubes.
 
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