new owner.
Hello, i`m going to do my first oil change on my 2015 C14. Any input on best oil filter and where to buy. Jim
Hello, i`m going to do my first oil change on my 2015 C14. Any input on best oil filter and where to buy. Jim
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best oil filter?
- Thread starter fournations
- Start date
I have had great success in all of my bikes and vehicles for many years with a Bosch 3322 filter. Has excellent reviews and various forums and is readily available at a fair price.
5
56taskforce
Guest
Guest
I use Napa Gold or Platinum Good quality filters manufactured for Napa by Wix and not over priced. I would leave you with the P/N for the Platinum but the box is on my desk at work besides Kawasaki Concours is listed in the Napa book so any Napa can look it up for you.
BTW they may not stock it so you may have to ask for it a day in advance.
BTW they may not stock it so you may have to ask for it a day in advance.
thanks
I don't know which filter is best.
I prefer the K&N - 303 because of the hex nut on the end that helps with removal/installation.
The hex comes in very handy. (Available at many auto parts stores)
Ride safe, Ted
I prefer the K&N - 303 because of the hex nut on the end that helps with removal/installation.
The hex comes in very handy. (Available at many auto parts stores)
Ride safe, Ted
connie_rider said:
I agree
for the money, it's the one I fall back on...love the built in hex... $10 oil filter price, doesn't mean the filter is better, just costs more...
the factory OEM filter Is reliable also...
best of luck on that 'first filter removal', buy a good set of channel-lok type pliers tool, you will need it.... a regular filter 'cup' wrench will suffice for doing the replacement install tho... tighten by hand, and then another 1/2-3/4 turn... don't need to "torque it" to the book spec...
as for 'first oil changes... during the duration of the break in period"...
I highly suggest using the OEM filters, and reliable Dino oil, until the break in is complete;
this bike came with that combination, and anything oil and filter related, during those criticle periods, is covered by Kaw, if they are used...
I won't jump into an oil thread, and say 'synthetic isn't good', but I will say let the rings fully seat, and valve guides and bearings set in before switching..
stallhorn said:I am thinking about going with Mobil M1-110a, but not sure if it fits. It replaces the old M1-110, which is listed under "oil filters" in the parts section. It is $10 at Walmart and good for extended OCI. I am not planning to change the oil for atleast 7500 miles
not all 'automotive filters', are suited to motorcycle usage, be aware of this, your car doesn't hit redline at 10k....
and please, do yourself a favor, and change oil and filter on schedule during the break in..
As long as an oil filter is properly installed in conjunction with proper oil in the crankcase, it will perform as intended.
The difference is how much you desire to spend on an oil change.
Cheers.
The difference is how much you desire to spend on an oil change.
Cheers.
Found this on bobistheoilguy.com
There is no such thing as a "motorcycle" oil filter or a "car" oil filter; they just aren't that "specific". To answer the OP's question directly: there is no difference between car and motorcycle fitlers. Oil filters are oil filters, period. There are different brands and grades and types of construction. But there is no designation for M/C vs. a car.
Filters are designed around specific parameters that the engine manufacturer dictates for a desired result in filtration efficiency, flow, pressure differential, construction demands and size requirements.
"Motorcycle" filters often seem "special" because they are viewed as a replacment part to a luxury item. After all, no one NEEDS a motorcycle, but several of us (including me) have one. It's the perception of the market that we're willing to pay more for a high-end product to protect our baby, but the reality is that spec's are spec's, and as long as a filter meets those specs, then it's available for any given application. If there is anything special about a motorcycle oil filter at a motorcycle shop, it's the price, in that they can often successfully charge their customers more money for a filter that you can get a Napa or AAP for a lot less.
Let me give you a very good example. Go to http://www.wixfilters.com and search for their 51348 filter, and look at the "all applications" link. You'll see that it goes on everything from lawn mowers with air-cooled Koehler engines, to small diesel engines, to Harley-Davidson motorcycles, to Chrysler inline four and V-6 gas engines, to Toyota V-6 and V-8 engines up to 4.7L.
Another example is Wix 51365. It fits all kinds of motorcycles, both air and liquid cooled. But it also fits Infiniti car engines, John Deere tractors with both gas and diesel engines, Komatsu excavators with diesel engines, and a large smattering of Mitsubishi, Mazda, Nissan and Subaru applications.
How about your CBR600F4 oil filter? Wix specifically states to use #51358, which fits a huge list of Honda and Kawasaki applications. It's used on Kia cars and Polaris ATV's. It also is used on a large list of Komatsu construction equipment, and many Kubota products, with both gasoline and diesel engines. Your CBR probably has a redline of greater than 10,000 rpm, and yet this same filter is also used on a diesel engine that runs only 2500 rpm. In fact, the specs for this filter are pretty mundane. Typical flow and pressure ranges. In fact, it's BETA ratio is less than stellar; 2/20 at 13/52? Not exactly a super-fine filter by any definition. And yet this little filter is on hundreds of thousands of engines around the world. And all those engines run for the equivilant of millions of miles.
Interestingly, if you cross reference the Purolator L14610 into Wix, you don't get the 51358 that is suggested for your application by Wix. The x-ref for the L14610 is 51356, which fits (again) a huge list of equipment, including marine engines! It just goes to show you that filter makers take the criteria (specs) of an OEM filter, and then apply one or more suggestions for that application. It shows that interpretations are sometimes different. Different is not wrong! It's just not the same. That's an important concept to understand. Further, since engine OEMs don't typically make their own filters, they just find a filter that meets their particular needs in a catalog (such as from Wix, Purolator, Champion, etc), and then spec that into the BOM (bill of materials) for the engine production plans.
Start to get the point? Filters are not typically designed "only" for a motorcycle. Companies such as Wix and Purolator look for applications that they can meet with a broad product line and then recomend one or more of their offerings to meet a particular flow, construction, filtration and size packaging requirement.
Last edited by dnewton3; 06/10/08 05:36 AM.
There is no such thing as a "motorcycle" oil filter or a "car" oil filter; they just aren't that "specific". To answer the OP's question directly: there is no difference between car and motorcycle fitlers. Oil filters are oil filters, period. There are different brands and grades and types of construction. But there is no designation for M/C vs. a car.
Filters are designed around specific parameters that the engine manufacturer dictates for a desired result in filtration efficiency, flow, pressure differential, construction demands and size requirements.
"Motorcycle" filters often seem "special" because they are viewed as a replacment part to a luxury item. After all, no one NEEDS a motorcycle, but several of us (including me) have one. It's the perception of the market that we're willing to pay more for a high-end product to protect our baby, but the reality is that spec's are spec's, and as long as a filter meets those specs, then it's available for any given application. If there is anything special about a motorcycle oil filter at a motorcycle shop, it's the price, in that they can often successfully charge their customers more money for a filter that you can get a Napa or AAP for a lot less.
Let me give you a very good example. Go to http://www.wixfilters.com and search for their 51348 filter, and look at the "all applications" link. You'll see that it goes on everything from lawn mowers with air-cooled Koehler engines, to small diesel engines, to Harley-Davidson motorcycles, to Chrysler inline four and V-6 gas engines, to Toyota V-6 and V-8 engines up to 4.7L.
Another example is Wix 51365. It fits all kinds of motorcycles, both air and liquid cooled. But it also fits Infiniti car engines, John Deere tractors with both gas and diesel engines, Komatsu excavators with diesel engines, and a large smattering of Mitsubishi, Mazda, Nissan and Subaru applications.
How about your CBR600F4 oil filter? Wix specifically states to use #51358, which fits a huge list of Honda and Kawasaki applications. It's used on Kia cars and Polaris ATV's. It also is used on a large list of Komatsu construction equipment, and many Kubota products, with both gasoline and diesel engines. Your CBR probably has a redline of greater than 10,000 rpm, and yet this same filter is also used on a diesel engine that runs only 2500 rpm. In fact, the specs for this filter are pretty mundane. Typical flow and pressure ranges. In fact, it's BETA ratio is less than stellar; 2/20 at 13/52? Not exactly a super-fine filter by any definition. And yet this little filter is on hundreds of thousands of engines around the world. And all those engines run for the equivilant of millions of miles.
Interestingly, if you cross reference the Purolator L14610 into Wix, you don't get the 51358 that is suggested for your application by Wix. The x-ref for the L14610 is 51356, which fits (again) a huge list of equipment, including marine engines! It just goes to show you that filter makers take the criteria (specs) of an OEM filter, and then apply one or more suggestions for that application. It shows that interpretations are sometimes different. Different is not wrong! It's just not the same. That's an important concept to understand. Further, since engine OEMs don't typically make their own filters, they just find a filter that meets their particular needs in a catalog (such as from Wix, Purolator, Champion, etc), and then spec that into the BOM (bill of materials) for the engine production plans.
Start to get the point? Filters are not typically designed "only" for a motorcycle. Companies such as Wix and Purolator look for applications that they can meet with a broad product line and then recomend one or more of their offerings to meet a particular flow, construction, filtration and size packaging requirement.
Last edited by dnewton3; 06/10/08 05:36 AM.
I work in transportation. We mainly run L96 6.0 Chevy and 6.8 2 valve Ford V10 with LPG conversion by Roush.
Recently we've lost 3 L96 engines to defective oil filters. Filtering media was found to be ok. What had failed was the gasket. As we discovered, the density of material was not consistent on several filter gaskets we've tested from the batch we got from NAPA(Wix).
When tightened properly, rubber gasket is not supposed to compress beyond its minimal thickness and maintain proper seal between filter housing and engine oil cooler adapter. In the case of gaskets that failed, we fond thickness variance from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch compressed. The defect in gaskets caused oil loss under normal operational conditions, i.e driving. Gasket did not leak with an engine at idle.
Since then NAPA filters have been put on hold. We've returned to using OE filters in both Chevy and Ford engines.
The purpose of my story is to make people aware of even a solid oil filter, from reputable manufacturer, could succumb to defects.
Recently we've lost 3 L96 engines to defective oil filters. Filtering media was found to be ok. What had failed was the gasket. As we discovered, the density of material was not consistent on several filter gaskets we've tested from the batch we got from NAPA(Wix).
When tightened properly, rubber gasket is not supposed to compress beyond its minimal thickness and maintain proper seal between filter housing and engine oil cooler adapter. In the case of gaskets that failed, we fond thickness variance from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch compressed. The defect in gaskets caused oil loss under normal operational conditions, i.e driving. Gasket did not leak with an engine at idle.
Since then NAPA filters have been put on hold. We've returned to using OE filters in both Chevy and Ford engines.
The purpose of my story is to make people aware of even a solid oil filter, from reputable manufacturer, could succumb to defects.
The only filter I've ever had fail was a Napa Platinum recently on my small block ford stroker. It took over 5 seconds to get oil pressure, the drainback valve failed. Less than 10miles on it too. Full top end inspection revealed no damage but damn I was pissed. Motorcraft filters only since then... I'm sure it was freak failure and I still use napa/wix filters on lots of other stuff.
My first oil change produced some colorful language... That oil filter was obnoxiously tight! I actually broke the rubber strap on a strap wrench trying to get it off!
My "cup" type of filter wrench wouldn't budge it and just spun. My regular oil filter wrench (that actually looks more like pliers) could not grip the filter tightly enough and dinged and dented the filter, but wouldn't budge it either. I tried my adjustable car oil filter wrench but it was too big for the filter.
The solution for me ended up being to put the broken rubber strap inside of the automotive filter wrench and FINALLY I had the right combination of grip, approach angle, torque and cuss words to get the blasted thing off!
I used the factory filter and Kawi standard 10w40 oil for the first change as it's what the bike came with I would imagine.
My "cup" type of filter wrench wouldn't budge it and just spun. My regular oil filter wrench (that actually looks more like pliers) could not grip the filter tightly enough and dinged and dented the filter, but wouldn't budge it either. I tried my adjustable car oil filter wrench but it was too big for the filter.
The solution for me ended up being to put the broken rubber strap inside of the automotive filter wrench and FINALLY I had the right combination of grip, approach angle, torque and cuss words to get the blasted thing off!
I used the factory filter and Kawi standard 10w40 oil for the first change as it's what the bike came with I would imagine.
Clip67 said:
I had a very similar experience! My steel band filter wrench wouldn't budge it so I drove to an auto parts store and bought the end cap style wrench, which just spun and smoothed out the end of the filter. I finally ended up buying a strap type wrench that with the appropriate cuss words broke it loose. :-[
Syxxphive said:
Many of us have read "BOB", and while he offers a lot of data, it is not a gospel of efficacy.
some filter manufacturers DO warn they don't recommend their 'automobile' filter for Motorcycle use, and subsequently offer a 'motorcycle specific' part... so are they lying?
from our 'sticky' section on aftermarket parts;
https://tinyurl.com/ycqt3u9u
3 pages of comparable (by dimensions) filters, and associated Bypass valve data..
http://oilfilterdata.com/index.php?view=replacements&type=oversize&model=ML16817&page=1
I'm not sure just how many SPOOFAK's are installed on Concours C10 models to date, but the person that spent his time, and money, to flow test many of the filters, to develop, manufacture, patent, and sell his product did a pretty comprehensive listing... and along with customer reports and support, some 'filters' were found that did not offer the flow characteristics desirable to all. The deciding factors in some of the 'non recommended' ones, were found to be restrictive, by virtue of the 'back flow / blocked media & over pressure bypass' function of said filters, or simply because of the media used.
his recommended list is attached, but relates to the zg1000/gtr1000...
(if you put Dan's C10 list, next to the C14 list from our 'sticky'section... you may find some of the exact same filters... :
:great: )
P07r0457 said:
yeah, I'm familiar with that, and have done it many times... on track bikes, for racing. :motonoises:
just didn't get the significance of wiring them together to each other.... :??:
when doing safety wires, the shorter the distance to the 'anchor point', the more effective.
most 'tracks' that allow a 'track days event for normal road bikes' don't require that, just tapeing up all the headlight , mirror, and signal plastics, and removing all the 'break away' parts of the bike, to make track cleanup easier afterwards... Sanctioned events pretty much all require it, "open amateur day" at a track, not so much. :rotflmao: :motonoises: :motonoises: :motonoises:
Eric said:
Been using mobil1 M110a, and had the SAME experience, even after buying a set of "channel-lock" style pliers to grip the filter end. I usually end-up crushing the filter in very disturbing ways.
Effort to not over-tighten the filter have been fruitless to resolve.
Next filter will be the K+N. A little overpriced, but still cheaper or same cost as the Mobil1.
Synthetic filtration media and back-flow valving is all there. Not sure about the internals on the hi-flow, but I do occasionally use them on my (cartridge-style) Aprilia. Have since switched to using K+N on that bike as well.
I use Mobil1 oil in both bikes.
gr
Not sure I understand. Do you torque the filter to 14ft/lbs per the book or does the filter tighten itself?
I had a hard time taking off the factory filter (like a lot of people on here), so I don't think it is a good idea to torque it to 14ft/lbs. I will do what I do with all the filters that install on all my motorized vehicles - snug it by hand and then a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.
I prefer the K&N 303 also because of the hex nut on it. IMHO timely oil changes and preventative maintenance will do more to protect your bike than using one type of filter over another (provided they are within specs).
I use the Napa and when I cant get it off 'the old screw driver thru the filter always works' :beerchug:
No matter what filter you use, I recommend Murph’s oil filter protector. I pop riveted a simple metal tab to it, and it contacts the oil pan, so there is no way the filter can ever spin loose.
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=410&osCsid=8nB04rL5Ce0xTpIufMIDN0
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?products_id=410&osCsid=8nB04rL5Ce0xTpIufMIDN0
I will second the Murph's oil filter protector. A few years ago while riding a pocket knife in the middle of the road was kicked up by my front tire and put a 1/4" hole in my oil filter. Oil saturated the muffler, front and rear tires and ruined all break pads. The smoke clued me in before the low oil light came on. The engine was ok but I had an expensive tow (I didn't know what had happened), and had to replace all break pads. The Murph's oil filter protector would have saved me much time and money.
Would you or anyone else have dimensions for the filter guard? I'd like it on my itty bitty six fiddy Versys. I does use the same filters as a C-14. The exhaust may interfere with fitment.4Bikes said:
Plus it will give me an opportunity to buy something from Murphs'. :great:
Thanks.
stallhorn said:
I do exactly what you do. :great:
gr
SteveJ. said:
I put a speaker magnet on top of my filter (to attract metal particles) and Murph's filter guard fits over everything easily.
Dimensions are 4" long 2 3/4" OD..
(if needed) It would be EZ to cut it shorter with a little patience and a hacksaw.
Polishes up nicely if you want to make it pretty for your itty bitty six fiddy Versys..
Ride safe, Ted
Yes, I know it's a sin, but thought it might be worth doing {once} before you install it.
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
I use the stock Kawasaki filters that I buy 5 or 6 at a time off of ebay. I usually get them for under $10.00 each. They come in the Kawasaki boxes and sometimes come with new crush washers. I have been using them for 56k miles with no issues on my 2012 Concours.
in the past I had a 2008 Concours that I used the Purolator Pure One filters (PL14610) without issue. They were handy because my local Auto Parts store always had them in stock. I used them for 30K miles without issue.
Fred
Wa2gzw
in the past I had a 2008 Concours that I used the Purolator Pure One filters (PL14610) without issue. They were handy because my local Auto Parts store always had them in stock. I used them for 30K miles without issue.
Fred
Wa2gzw
There, I fixed it for ya.. :nananana:
I may just polish it for S&Gs. It would be the only shiny bit on the bike, for awhile.
Heck who knows,,, that "shiny bit" may even inspire you to actually wash it... :great:
Nahhhhhhhhhhhhhh…………………
Ride safe, Ted
I may just polish it for S&Gs. It would be the only shiny bit on the bike, for awhile.
Heck who knows,,, that "shiny bit" may even inspire you to actually wash it... :great:
Nahhhhhhhhhhhhhh…………………
Ride safe, Ted
OMG!! You washed it... Oh, the shame... :nananana:
See ya at Cliff's. Hopefully we won't get thestor err shower this year...
Let us know how the filter cover works out for you...
Ride safe, Ted
See ya at Cliff's. Hopefully we won't get the
Let us know how the filter cover works out for you...
Ride safe, Ted
MAN OF BLUES said:
Link to information on Hi Flow oil filters: https://wemoto.wordpress.com/2013/09/04/the-lowdown-on-hiflo-motorcycle-oil-filters/ Only TUV approved filter.Not so K&N.
K&N oil filters used to be made in Korea,they were excellent,but I believe they are now made in China: http://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2017/65116r-eng.php
SteveJ. said:
:hum:, something going on at Cliff's? Let me know when so I can be there.
Cliff, mebbe I should explain.
Even if you don't put on your rally, some of us will be there to ride Arkansas in the Spring.
Bye the bye: Your invited to ride with us... (as we'll be coming by your house anyway).. >
Getting back to the discussion; While we're there, you can help us decide which is the best tire/oil/filter/etc etc etc...
Ride safe, Ted
Even if you don't put on your rally, some of us will be there to ride Arkansas in the Spring.
Bye the bye: Your invited to ride with us... (as we'll be coming by your house anyway).. >
Getting back to the discussion; While we're there, you can help us decide which is the best tire/oil/filter/etc etc etc...
Ride safe, Ted
Arghhhhh!!
NOTE: If it don't work, {after you polish it} you could always give it to me.. :great:
Glad I could help,
Ride safe, Ted
NOTE: If it don't work, {after you polish it} you could always give it to me.. :great:
Glad I could help,
Ride safe, Ted
connie_rider said:
Polish or no polish, this guard will be on the next oil filter.
Maybe I have something else laying around that I can give you....Found it. Four quarts of used Rotella. It's even in a Rotella jug. You should be able to get a couple thousand more miles on it. :great: :rotflmao: :beerchug:
Gee, yer a nice guy. :rotflmao:
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
Uh, err, uh, err, yea, uh, err ,,, yea right... :hum:
Ok, do that... I'll be happy to oil yer tires for ya...
I think we've stole the discussion.... :threadjack:
Being a nice guy's, let's return to the regularly scheduled discussion:
In another discussion, someone mentioned their Kawasaki filter seemed to have kept the oil cleaner.
Has anyone experienced this?
Ride safe, Ted
Ok, do that... I'll be happy to oil yer tires for ya...
I think we've stole the discussion.... :threadjack:
Being a nice guy's, let's return to the regularly scheduled discussion:
In another discussion, someone mentioned their Kawasaki filter seemed to have kept the oil cleaner.
Has anyone experienced this?
Ride safe, Ted
I'll throw my two cents in here regarding using auto oil filters on bikes...
Best I recall, back when Honda came out with the first CBR600, owners discovered that a Fram auto filter would fit their bikes. Honda had Fram make their oem filters back then. (A parts guy reported getting a case from Honda with Fram paperwork inside.) The oem filters were made to Honda specs and worked fine. There were supposedly some spectacular failures of the auto filter where the can blew off the base. The crimp around the base couldn't handle the pressure the bike generated at high revs.
I haven't heard of anything like that happening since though.
That said, I've used Purolator 14610 on my C14.
Best I recall, back when Honda came out with the first CBR600, owners discovered that a Fram auto filter would fit their bikes. Honda had Fram make their oem filters back then. (A parts guy reported getting a case from Honda with Fram paperwork inside.) The oem filters were made to Honda specs and worked fine. There were supposedly some spectacular failures of the auto filter where the can blew off the base. The crimp around the base couldn't handle the pressure the bike generated at high revs.
I haven't heard of anything like that happening since though.
That said, I've used Purolator 14610 on my C14.
I avoid Fram at all costs. This guy's exam tear down kinda confirms that....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8
connie_rider said:
Maybe I don't get it right but , what will magnet do that the filter isn't? The filter should grab any particles that go into it so I don't see the good in a magnet mounted on the filter. Or am I missing something? Really curious.
A magnet is primarily just another method to catch the steel particles.
Plus, it can catch smaller particles than the filter will.
Ride safe, Ted
Plus, it can catch smaller particles than the filter will.
Ride safe, Ted
connie_rider said:
Thanks for the explanation :great: :beerchug:
My 2 cents on Oil Filters. I came across this video (Motorcycle MD) that discusses & compares different filters, like Honda, K&N, HiFlo and a bunch of others. I like the way he breaks them open and compares the quality of the filtering mechanism, the filter fabric/paper, density, spring strength, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZicO-ZmPGcw
I am staying with K&N with Kawasaki &Honda as my backups...
Cheers!
Gilbysan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZicO-ZmPGcw
I am staying with K&N with Kawasaki &Honda as my backups...
Cheers!
Gilbysan
100+
An added benefit to murphs filter protector is mine is so tight I use it tighten the filter down, before snuggling up the supplied hose clamp retainer. (Hint, reach in from the front opening to get a better grip)
An added benefit to murphs filter protector is mine is so tight I use it tighten the filter down, before snuggling up the supplied hose clamp retainer. (Hint, reach in from the front opening to get a better grip)
This is what I upgraded to. Mike, who sold me his BlackWidow, turned me on to it. By the 5th or 6th oil change this will have paid for itself.
Last edited:
AHHH!!! TD is digging up graves!
LOL, guess I wasn't here for THAT episode. Something I need to be aware of, or should be clued in about before I bring down the meteor strikes on myself? :^ ) AB
I don't think there's a policy or anything written in blood.
why not get a reusuable and be done?. it will pay for itself too,
everybike i own has one.
everybike i own has one.
Both the K & N and the HiFlo Filtro have the nut on the end. I use either one on my 2009 C14.
You made me think; I have 2 HiFlo Filtro's in my garage. #HF-303
I didn't recall the nut, so I checked, and neither have the nut on the end. (??)
Do I have the wrong filter?
Ride safe, Ted
I didn't recall the nut, so I checked, and neither have the nut on the end. (??)
Do I have the wrong filter?
Ride safe, Ted
Maybe it’s the ZX14 filter, instead of the ZG that we posted above? I just know that mine has the nut.
I was referring to Marinick's post... He mentioned a HiFlo Filter being constructed the same as a K & N.
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
Ah, copy that. Disregard my previous. Understood now. LOL :^ ) AB
Hey Ted, you have the regular 303. The one with the nut is the "race" version. HF303RC.
Hiflofiltro HF303RC-3 Black 3 Pack Premium Oil Filter, 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C32DR8...abc_5R3C75YWXCSK4F08HFC0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Norm
Thx Norm. That's good to know. +1
It's sorta like asking why doesn't everybody exercise like they should and save money on medicine and Doctor bills. Yes, we could do that but most are probably too lazy. Same goes for the reusable oil filter, It has to be cleaned in solvent and then blown out with compressed air. My place is messy enough now without having a bunch of dirty solvent to dispose of and blowing it out of the filter on my lawn or into a plastic bag or ....well where do you blow yours out?
So yes, a good idea if you are all set up for regular solvent disposal and have a garage air compressor (I would guess only 50% on here do, not counting the little portable 12vdc models...hmm ...."survey sez time"?). Most here aren't so lazy that they won't change their own oil, but it's so easy to recycle the used filter or toss it in the trash with the used kitty litter and then just spin the new one on.
it’s finned also so it’s a oil cooler too. yup, i soak in gas and blow out with compressed air. done in 5 minutes.
Thanks Norm. I do like that better, but, I don't think I'll be ordering anytime soon.
ie; I had a buying spree and bought 4 HiFlo's and 6 K&N's.
I also bought a special K&N oil filter that is longer than the std filters for our bikes. It holds more oil, and costs less than the K&N 303.
(sorry, don't have number for it handy)
fyi;
The hex nut on the bottom of the filters has another useful function that folks may not be aware of..
ie; You can put a washer style magnet over it, and the hex helps keep it in place. (ID needs to be about 3/4" to 1")
(The magnet attracts metal particles as the oil passes thru the filter and helps keep them "IN"side the filter)
Looks like this;
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
It's probably a KN-198. 13mm longer and 1mm narrower.
Or a KN-196 which is 14mm longer and 2mm wider.
I think I had the 198, but the 196 would be better as it has more capacity.
,,,,,(Assuming that the threads, and the and contact face are the same size as the 303).
Uhh/err: Thinkin' about it.. Mebbe I did have the 196... (My memory sux)
ie; More oil "ist gut"..
Ride safe, Ted
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guys, I'm sorry me and texas develop. win with the reusable filter
it pays for itself!! why would you use anything else? yes, I know your welcome from mav9611
it pays for itself!! why would you use anything else? yes, I know your welcome from mav9611
yup and mike is maverick9611
your reusable filter stats:
yes, stats!
This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. Unlike glued paper filters, the FLO Oil Filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees.
Consistent flow under all conditions:
This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine! This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance.In addition to all the other benefits, our filter helps keep the land fills free of old used filters.
yes, stats!
- Cleanable and Reusable
- Superior Filtration - 35 microns!
- Proven Aerospace, NASCAR, Indy and Formula 1 Technology
- High Flow Rate
- Easy Filter Element Inspection
- Unaffected by Water, Heat or Pressure
- Environmentally Friendly
- Pays for itself
This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. Unlike glued paper filters, the FLO Oil Filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees.
Consistent flow under all conditions:
This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine! This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance.In addition to all the other benefits, our filter helps keep the land fills free of old used filters.
'Cause I'm lazy. I don't even do my own changes.
Can't have you get the last word;
Those were statements and opinions, not statistics.. <evil grin>
Ride safe, Ted
i tried, just like a used car saleman
Even though I've used a K&N air filter since new I've always been skeptical of a reusable oil filter.
This is highly debatable. The average cost of a spin on is $13.00, that would take 10 filter changes to break even. That amounts to 50,000 - 75,000 miles depending on your schedule. The large majority of owners do not keep bikes that long or put on that many miles.
win with the reusable filter
This is highly debatable. The average cost of a spin on is $13.00, that would take 10 filter changes to break even. That amounts to 50,000 - 75,000 miles depending on your schedule. The large majority of owners do not keep bikes that long or put on that many miles.
I hear you Cliff, and don't disagree that riders can be fickle. In my case, until something major happens that eliminates my ability to ride I don't foresee getting rid of this C14. As sport touring bikes go, the C14 is an apex predator and I can't see myself downgrading to something less comfy, bulkier or upgrading to brands that are double the price. The Kawa is in my sweetspot so the reusable is a winner for me.
Also not sure about the math on the oil change frequency. I'm using dino juice (20W50 JASO 2) with each 3k change, so to get to 75k miles I'll be changing roughly 20 times. At that rate and price point for spin-ons I'd spend somewhere around $260 versus the $150 for the reusable. And I'm going to punt on doing the full calculus on the price difference between the fluids and other factors.
Not all circumstances are equivalent for all riders though, which is a good point if debating lowest total cost under 40k miles using dino juice. For those who use the synthetic and change oil every 10k the spin-ons probably make a lotta sense.
Frequency was based on my 5,000 interval simply because I find it easier to keep up with & Kawasaki recommends 7,500 miles so 3,000 never occurred to me.
3,000 is typically not even enough for 1 trip. Changing oil in a Wal-Mart parking lot while on a trip kinda sucks.
To stay on topic my oil has been changed 56 times, 56 X 13 is $728. So I would have saved approx. $600.00 based on $13.00 for spin owns. I'll keep using sin owns regardless.
Yes, I can't disagree with that. Changing oil in ANY parking lot is a sub-optimal scenario IMO. Long trips are still not in my immediate future no matter how much I'd like them to be. Working to finish building the retirement war chest is still my primary mission (besides not getting kicked out by my better half). :^ ) AB
this thread is gettin lots of traction. nice
Thanks Ted! Heading to HD to get these. I like that better than the Motion Pro magnets. I do have a magnetic oil plug so this combo should work great!Thanks Norm. I do like that better, but, I don't think I'll be ordering anytime soon.
ie; I had a buying spree and bought 4 HiFlo's and 6 K&N's.
I also bought a special K&N oil filter that is longer than the std filters for our bikes. It holds more oil, and costs less than the K&N 303.
(sorry, don't have number for it handy)
fyi;
The hex nut on the bottom of the filters has another useful function that folks may not be aware of..
ie; You can put a washer style magnet over it, and the hex helps keep it in place. (ID needs to be about 3/4" to 1")
(The magnet attracts metal particles as the oil passes thru the filter and helps keep them "IN"side the filter)
Looks like this;
Ride safe, Ted
Hmm, the reusable oil filter and a Sprint air filter.
Sprint Filter P08 Kawasaki ZX-14 (06-11), ZZR1400 (06-11), and Concours 14 (08-21)
Buy Sprint Filter P08 Kawasaki ZX-14 (06-11), ZZR1400 (06-11), and Concours 14 (08-21) SKU: 402727 at the price of US$ 103.98 | BrocksPerformance.com
brocksperformance.com
Norm
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Norm, be sure the hole thru the center is big enough. Looking at the photo of their magnet, I couldn't tell for certain.Thanks Ted! Heading to HD to get these. I like that better than the Motion Pro magnets. I do have a magnetic oil plug so this combo should work great!
Hmm, the reusable oil filter and a Sprint air filter.
Sprint Filter P08 Kawasaki ZX-14 (06-11), ZZR1400 (06-11), and Concours 14 (08-21)
Buy Sprint Filter P08 Kawasaki ZX-14 (06-11), ZZR1400 (06-11), and Concours 14 (08-21) SKU: 402727 at the price of US$ 103.98 | BrocksPerformance.com
Norm
Ride safe, Ted
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The M1-110A is a direct replacement IF you have converted to Bergman's Spin on Adapter kit. (Of course this is for a C10, not sure what the C14 takes.)I am thinking about going with Mobil M1-110a, but not sure if it fits. It replaces the old M1-110, which is listed under "oil filters" in the parts section. It is $10 at Walmart and good for extended OCI. I am not planning to change the oil for atleast 7500 miles
For the C10 folks out there, a Lifetime Filter is available for 60 bucks here: I am in no way affiliated with this website, just trying to help out the C10 folks. It is less than 1/2 the $156 Bergman's Adapter Kit. I installed that on my ZX11 Sport bike and kinda liked it, UNTIL I found this option.
PC Racing Kawasaki ZG1000 86-06 Flo Reusable Oil Filter
Purchase the PC Racing Kawasaki ZG1000 86-06 Flo Reusable Oil Filter from SportbikeTrackGear.com. Get the lowest price, free shipping deal, easy exchanges and no restocking fees - Guaranteed!
www.sportbiketrackgear.com
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