Broken Final Gear Case Mounting stud, now What?

[Craig_Lundy_IL]

Learned the hard way not to torque the Final Gear Case Mounting nuts to spec..... A few questions come to mind.... - Can three mounting nuts hold the gear case and rear end or is it time to choose other transportation?? - Can the broken stud be removed and replaced or is it time for a new gear case? Thanks Craig (One Step forward, Two Steps Back)

 

[Tinsailor]

I'm sure the stud can be drilled out and replaced but done by some one with some experience at these things, wouldn't try it with the Black and Decker home drill.

 

[2linby]

As stated you should be able to drill the broken stub and use an easy out to remove it. There are some great broken screw extracators out there to use. Here is a link to a craftsman set. But you can try a standard easy out too. Oh and BTW there is really nothing easy about it! Although you now have very little alternative. Best of luck! http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00953153000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)

 

[colinp386]

Most likely the bolt will have snapped at the beginning of the thread. If that's the case you may find you will not be able to 'easy out' the thread without removing the final gear case. as the taper on the easy-out will prevent you screwing it in far enough. Often when the tension is off the stud comes out pretty easy. If it was one of the lock-tight bolts heat it up first to soften the lock tight. As there is a lot of torque going through the final drive case, that's why it has so many I don't recommend running without all the bolts as there is a good chance it will leak oil. If you do remove the case, and a reasonable amount of bolt is visible, a good pair of mole grips will likely give enough purchase to wind it out. Good luck Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[billhook]

As there is a lot of torque going through the final drive case, that's why it has so many I don't recommend running without all the bolts as there is a good chance it will leak oil. I agree about the torque, but there's no oil at this joint to leak. Or, if there is, you have a leaking shaft seal on the case. You also might try removing the case, and angling a chisel against the bolt and tapping it to rotate it counter clockwise and out. Bill Hookman Columbus, OH COG #6893, Ohio AAD CDA #0278 The twistier and hillier the road, the bigger the smile.

 

[colinp386]

Hang on a Mo...

as there is a good chance it will leak oil.

My bad Bill hook is right, I had my mind on the beveled gear case, not the final drive. No oil to leak there. There is no way I would ride any distance or with any load on 3 studs. The one that sheared should come out easy enough. As you torqued them all, I would play safe and replace then all. Put 2 nuts with a washer between them and unscrew them using the first nut you screwed in. You may need to warm up the case a little first. Take care you keep the case upright once removed as it will bleed oil out of the breather hole. Sorry for my initial confusion. CP Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[EddieM]

OK, before anyone starts, this is a serious reply! Another method is to get hold of a left-handed drill bit. Completely serious here. We used them quite a bit when I worked at the power company. They aren't very common, but they are available. Just chuck it up in the drill, run it in reverse and (usually), voila, out it comes. Eddie 2005 Concours 1969 Triumph Bonneville AMA# 686667 COG# 7073 CDA# 0136 http://picasaweb.google.com/Eddie753

 

[billhook]

I've done similarly with a regular drill bit. Drilled a hole with the bit to create a spot that the bit won't wander from and then reverse the drill and apply alot of pressure on the bit. It works best if there's not much resistance on the threads, but it has worked for me. Bill Hookman Columbus, OH COG #6893, Ohio AAD CDA #0278 The twistier and hillier the road, the bigger the smile.

 

[zorlac]

Learned the hard way not to torque the Final Gear Case Mounting nuts to spec You might want to verify that the torque wrench you used was in fact set to 22ftlbs, that's not excessively tight for that diameter stud.

 

[Tinsailor]

I should have mentioned that there are left handed drills available from some of the better auto parts store or indusrial supply houses. I've used these myself with better than average success. But you have to use them on a steady device like a Bridgport mill. They will normally grab the stud and back it out before you get thru the bolt. Just use one smaller than the tap drill size and be absolutley sure you're in the center of the stud when you start......