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C10 Tail Lights?

Ironwood

Member
Member
I noticed my tail lights do not come on with the key in "on" position. My license plate light come on - brake light comes on - I can activate both brinkers but no running tail lights. The manual said they are to come on with the key in "on" position.

Am I reading this wrong?
 
Yes, the tail light should come on when the key is in the "on" position. Check the bulbs - there are 2 dual filament bulbs in the tail light. One filament in each bulb is for the tail light and the other is for the brake light. Maybe both tail filaments are burnt out.
 
My mistake - bad explanation - let's try this! Not the tail light but the 2 amber rear running/blinker lights...sorry!
 
The rear C-10 signal lights do not have 2 filaments. (No running light filament in them)
The one element bulbs only come on when you signal a turn.

It's possible to install 2 filament lights. But you have to install a 2 contact socket and wire 1 contact to your running lights.
There are other ways to do this.
I did the socket install.

Ride safe, Ted
 
I installed the 2 contact plugs for that very reason.
If you're a tinkerer, it's not too difficult to do.
But note that the lenses are amber. So, the running lights are amber.
(The Amber running lights beside the red taillight Really show up well)
NOTE: (amber /rear running lights) are not strictly legal in some states)
No one has ever bothered me about mine though.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: Another option is to add relays and make the signal light also act like a running light.
I'm unsure how to do this.
 
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I installed the 2 contact plugs for that very reason.
If you're a tinkerer, it's not too difficult to do.
But note that the lenses are amber. So, the running lights are amber.
(The Amber running lights beside the red taillight Really show up well)
NOTE: (amber /rear running lights) are not strictly legal in some states)
No one has ever bothered me about mine though.

Ride safe, Ted
Just checked with Oklahoma law and the amber rear running lights ARE legal.
Now I'm curious about your install - care to share? ;)
 
From memory; So, I may miss a step.
I recommend you get a used rear signal from Ebay. {to experiment on}
Notice that this light has 2 wires on it. (see below for explanation)
Buy a 2 filament Parking Light socket assembly at any Auto Supply.
(Look for mounting fingers)

Disassemble the signal light. (1 screw on the back of the blinker stem)
Remove the amber lens. (2 screws from the back of the grey housing.)
Remove the internal parts/wires of the light socket. (cut the wires and pull out from the front)
Solder the ground wire onto the 2 filament light socket.
You will find that the light socket is held into the grey housing by a flared lip.
To cut off that lip, use a die grinder on the inside of the light socket.
Remove the light socket.
Install the 2 filament light socket into the hole.
Spread the fingers to hold it in place.
Glue it on the back with Epoxy to seal it tightly in place.
Re-install lens.
Re-install into blinker stem.
Re-attach ground and signal wire.
Attach remaining run wire to license plate light wire.
Test, and then do the other side...

Ride safe, Ted

NOTE: While looking up the spare light, I came across this.
Notice that each signal light has 3 wires. (The std Connie Signal light has 2 wires)
It's possible that someone already modified these or added a relay to make the single filament socket work like a 2 filament socket.
 
From memory; So, I may miss a step.
I recommend you get a used rear signal from Ebay. {to experiment on}
Notice that this light has 2 wires on it. (see below for explanation)
Buy a 2 filament Parking Light socket assembly at any Auto Supply.
(Look for mounting fingers)

Disassemble the signal light. (1 screw on the back of the blinker stem)
Remove the amber lens. (2 screws from the back of the grey housing.)
Remove the internal parts/wires of the light socket. (cut the wires and pull out from the front)
Solder the ground wire onto the 2 filament light socket.
You will find that the light socket is held into the grey housing by a flared lip.
To cut off that lip, use a die grinder on the inside of the light socket.
Remove the light socket.
Install the 2 filament light socket into the hole.
Spread the fingers to hold it in place.
Glue it on the back with Epoxy to seal it tightly in place.
Re-install lens.
Re-install into blinker stem.
Re-attach ground and signal wire.
Attach remaining run wire to license plate light wire.
Test, and then do the other side...

Ride safe, Ted

NOTE: While looking up the spare light, I came across this.
Notice that each signal light has 3 wires. (The std Connie Signal light has 2 wires)
It's possible that someone already modified these or added a relay to make the single filament socket work like a 2 filament socket.

I believe you are right . Zooming in on one of the photos You can see the 2 filiments in the bulb .
 
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It's true that amber tail lights are illegal in many places, even most.
A good solution is from Electrical Connection. com. Their LED kit shows red for both braking and running, and then allows amber for turn signals.
I used this outfit on my GPZ1100E for 100,000 miles with great success.
https://electricalconnection.com/index.php/product/rear-turn-signal-conversion-kit/
I have this kit installed on my C10. Works great. I also installed clear lenses I found on EBay to replace the amber lenses.
 
From memory; So, I may miss a step.
I recommend you get a used rear signal from Ebay. {to experiment on}
Notice that this light has 2 wires on it. (see below for explanation)
Buy a 2 filament Parking Light socket assembly at any Auto Supply.
(Look for mounting fingers)

Disassemble the signal light. (1 screw on the back of the blinker stem)
Remove the amber lens. (2 screws from the back of the grey housing.)
Remove the internal parts/wires of the light socket. (cut the wires and pull out from the front)
Solder the ground wire onto the 2 filament light socket.
You will find that the light socket is held into the grey housing by a flared lip.
To cut off that lip, use a die grinder on the inside of the light socket.
Remove the light socket.
Install the 2 filament light socket into the hole.
Spread the fingers to hold it in place.
Glue it on the back with Epoxy to seal it tightly in place.
Re-install lens.
Re-install into blinker stem.
Re-attach ground and signal wire.
Attach remaining run wire to license plate light wire.
Test, and then do the other side...

Ride safe, Ted

NOTE: While looking up the spare light, I came across this.
Notice that each signal light has 3 wires. (The std Connie Signal light has 2 wires)
It's possible that someone already modified these or added a relay to make the single filament socket work like a 2 filament socket.
Thank you for taking the time to post this! Appreciate it!!!
 
What I did does take a bit of work.
The kit that Cherry River posted seems to be easier than my method.
I like the fact that it also has brake lights in it. (My method does not)
For anyone considering the kit, it took me awhile to find install info.
Here it is.

Only question I would have with it is brightness.
I tried multiple LED lights in mine, and none were as bright as the std incandescent bulb.
Are these bright?

Ride safe, Ted

PS: I sent a note to the guy that has the 3 wire signal lights. Hopefully he'll replay and we will find out what's going on.
If they are 3 wire/2 filament sockets, I hope someone buys them. Would greatly simplify the project.
 
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Not the same thing, but the PO of my 99 c-10 added trailer clearance lights to the bags. Cheap and available at any auto store or Walmart. The ones on the side of the bags are on all of the time. The ones on the back of the bags are brake lights. I have those wired to a Backoff module so they flash 4 times then stay on. I have them with a 4 pin connector so I can take the bags off. I have replaced them with LEDs so they are brighter than the pictures show.
 

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I have the kit that Cherry river referenced on my C10. Installed it a few months after I picked up the bike ~ 2006.

Has worked well, although I have noticed a couple of the LED's on the ring have gone out.
 
I received a reply back from the guy with the special (3 wire) Signal Light set.
He said it is a 2 contact socket, and send a photo.
So it would allow running and signal lights.

If someone is thinking about this mod, this appears to be a very easy/inexpensive way to do the modification.
Basically, it's just bolt the new Signal's on and hook up the wires.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Teds always good for giving us the best info... now if he'd just give up the notion that red is THE fastest color. Global warming might cool down....
 
Teds always good for giving us the best info... now if he'd just give up the notion that red is THE fastest color. Global warming might cool down....

šŸ˜‚ (we both know) That ain't gonna happen.
So, I fixed your post for ya. (y)
PS: Yer right; Red "is" the fastest color. šŸ˜œ

Earlier, I forgot to mention where I got the power for the running light addition.
The power/wiring {for my running lights} came from the License plate light.
Works perfectly.

On my bike that wire is available as I don't use the license plate light. (I threw it away)
I removed the license plate light bracket/assembly, cut off the rear fender (just under the reflectors), and mounted the license plate higher.
(I used the lower 2 holes of the license plate to attach the plate).
This shortened the fender, (for easier tire changes) moved the license plate up to just below the taillight, (I think it looks better) and the taillight illuminates the License plate. (The illumination is RED, but it still illuminates the plate)

Much like the Amber running lights, the RED illumination isn't strictly legal, :rolleyes: but it hasn't been an issue in 25 years.
(I've done this on about 10 Connies and the officers that have occasionally (err) "visited with me" didn't notice it).

Ride safe, Ted
 
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