I have not been able to remove the front wheel on my C10. Following the service manual instructions I left the left-side pinch bolt tight, loosened the right one, then tried to loosen the axle bolt from the right side. No joy. Any movement of the bolt resulted in movement on the left as well (the pinch bolt did not prevent turning). Is there a trick?
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Can't get front wheel off of my '95 C10
- Thread starter BrianG
- Start date
Process I used and recommended in Clymers is to loosen the pinch bolts on both fork legs, then use the axle nut and bolt fittings on either end of the axle to break the axle free. The pinch bolts were never part of the process of holding part of the axle from turning.
Good luck
Good luck
(I disagree slightly)
There is another reason to keep the pinch bolts snug on the left side of a C-10.
If (before the axle nut breaks loose) the entire axle rotates, the Speedometer drive can be damaged.
ie; The locating ear/guide on the Speedo drive can break off.
It is possible/probable that the left pinch bolts are overtightened or the axle is installed from the incorrect side.
Look in the end of the hex's to determine which way the axle is installed.
If the left pinch bolts are overtightened (on the nut side), the pressure from them can be compressing the threads of the axle nut.
(That slight compression can make it more difficult to break the axle nut loose)
I suggest, loosen all the pinch bolts and then re-snug the left ones only "slightly".
Use that slight tightness to maintain a reference point, not to keep the nut from rotating.
Then do as everyone has already suggested; use 2 Allen wrenches to break the axle nut loose.
While doing so, hold the left wrench stationary and do not allow that side to rotate.
ie; Rotate only the right side to break the axle nut loose.
After the nut breaks loose, the left pinch bolts can also be loosened and either side can rotate.
Ride safe, Ted
There is another reason to keep the pinch bolts snug on the left side of a C-10.
If (before the axle nut breaks loose) the entire axle rotates, the Speedometer drive can be damaged.
ie; The locating ear/guide on the Speedo drive can break off.
It is possible/probable that the left pinch bolts are overtightened or the axle is installed from the incorrect side.
Look in the end of the hex's to determine which way the axle is installed.
If the left pinch bolts are overtightened (on the nut side), the pressure from them can be compressing the threads of the axle nut.
(That slight compression can make it more difficult to break the axle nut loose)
I suggest, loosen all the pinch bolts and then re-snug the left ones only "slightly".
Use that slight tightness to maintain a reference point, not to keep the nut from rotating.
Then do as everyone has already suggested; use 2 Allen wrenches to break the axle nut loose.
While doing so, hold the left wrench stationary and do not allow that side to rotate.
ie; Rotate only the right side to break the axle nut loose.
After the nut breaks loose, the left pinch bolts can also be loosened and either side can rotate.
Ride safe, Ted
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To expand on Larry's comment above about 12mm Allen wrenches from McMaster-Carr, just buy one with the one long end, cut an approximate 1" length slug off of the long end. Use that slug with a 6-point 1/2" drive 12mm socket and a healthy 1/2" drive ratchet (or fixed 1/2" breaker), on one side of the axle, and the rest of the 12mm Allen wrench "in normal mode" on the other. Loosen the right (speedo side) pinch bolt, and do your level best to keep the axle from rotating when coaching the axle "nut" loose.
FWIW - I carry that 12mm nubbin' and the remaining section of the Allen wrench with me in my tool kit, JIC I need it out on the road.
Good luck with it.
FWIW - I carry that 12mm nubbin' and the remaining section of the Allen wrench with me in my tool kit, JIC I need it out on the road.
Good luck with it.
So you cant get the axle parts to turn? Or it wont come out laterally? Sounds like the common galvanic corrosion issue I have had on others bikes a dozen times. Dissimilar metals, no lube used, lots of water riding/washing, long intervals between tire changes, A whitish 'welding' occurs and you can get the axle to turn radially, but in most cases I have had to find or make the tool and drive the axle all the way out, as that center collar has a lot of surface area. Is not good on the wheel bearings, but I should have take pictures of the crap I have seen on some. If you can gently lay the bike on it's side to get some Kroil or PB blaster in there to soak for days it helps. May or may not be the issue.
The whole axle turns. It's too late to prevent the rotation of the left side.
The speedometer cable was disconnected. A second wrench/hex socket on the opposite side makes sense. I will give that a go.The left side one has a center hole that is not on the right. What does that indicate?
Don't have a C-10 handy to look at. Look for a difference.
Sounds like you are looking thru the nut at the threads on the end of the axle.
The nut should be on the left.
The end that is the axle should be on the right side and would have a rounded cast look/no line.
Sounds like you are looking thru the nut at the threads on the end of the axle.
The nut should be on the left.
The end that is the axle should be on the right side and would have a rounded cast look/no line.
There's a metal nub on the speedometer cable drive housing that prevents it from rotating with the wheel while you are riding. If you have been rotating the axle around it's likely that nub has broken off. I managed to break that nub off of the speedo drive on my 86 C10 but managed to score a replacement at a salvage yard for $5.00 - lucky me. 
I would not rely on the axle pinch bolts to prevent the axle from rotating while you are persuading things to loosen. Like others have said and you are going to try, 2 12mm Allens driven by ratchets/breaker bars is the way to go.
I have a piece of a railroad tie that I use to block the rotation of the ratchet while I'm loosening the other side. Try to be sure you are applying force to the "nut" side of the axle assembly. After getting the "nut" off I gently drive the axle out part way with a hammer and 1/2" ratchet extension.
I would not rely on the axle pinch bolts to prevent the axle from rotating while you are persuading things to loosen. Like others have said and you are going to try, 2 12mm Allens driven by ratchets/breaker bars is the way to go.
I have a piece of a railroad tie that I use to block the rotation of the ratchet while I'm loosening the other side. Try to be sure you are applying force to the "nut" side of the axle assembly. After getting the "nut" off I gently drive the axle out part way with a hammer and 1/2" ratchet extension.
Got it! Wrench on both ends worked. Nub that prevents speedo from rotating is worn and shiny but is still substantially 'nubbed' enough so that the speed drive stays in place, at least during a test ride around the yard before tropical storm Ian started dumping rain.
Thank you all for your responses and advice.
Thank you all for your responses and advice.
That nub is there to help you get in position as you install the wheel. Its not a very substantial anti rotation tab. The center part of the drive is the spacer for that side of the wheel and the axle will pinch it up against the bearing center race. The cable will keep the outer part from rotating when you drive. Make sure it doesn't turn as you torque the axle.