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DIY Oil Change??

09BlackBeauty

09BlackBeauty

Big Wheel
I am considering a DIY oil change/service (4000 miles) on my 09' Connie.  I don't feel like paying the dealership $230 for the service (call me crazy)!!  This is the first change that I will conduct on the bike and I do not own a service manual.  What is the best method in accomplishing this by myself??  I own a 2000 HD Buell and have done it numerous times on that bike, but I'm guessing it's a little different.

So if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.  Should I change the shaft drive oil while I’m at it??  Still new to the Connie world and could use some pointers.

Thank you,
Eric
 
Make sure you have a oil filter wrench that fits the filter mine was so tight I started to put a screwdriver though it drain plug/filter on the bottom of the eng, you got this,save your$
 
Warm up engine
Shut down engine
Place pan under engine
Remove Oil filler cap
Remove drain bolt
Let oil drain
Unscrew Filter and let drain (I used BIG channel locks but an oil filter wrench works too)
Place light coat of clean motor oil on gasket of new oil filter
Screw new oil filter on by hand and tighten it down (HAND TIGHTEN ONLY)
Put drain bolt back in and torque (I use the calibrated wrist method)
Fill with oil
Put filler cap on
Start engine for a few secs and wait for oil light to go out
shut engine
Check oil
Done


All in takes me less then 15 min...No plastic needs to come off to do this
 
Thanks Mad River...

Any thoughts on oil?  Considering a using a synthetic (10W40).  At only 4000 miles, should the drive shaft oil be serviced?  I know this all is very simple stuff - I'm just trying to learn a new world...Twins and HD is all I've every had. 

Much happier with a Connie!!  :beerchug:
 
I have 23K (basically drive every day, includes city and highway) on my '09 and have done all the oil changes myself with Mobil 1 and found out that the K & N filters with the nut on the top are excellent to remove and they are the same price or you can find them cheaper then the OEM ones.

Since I change my oil every 7,500 I also take a minute and change out the final drive oil (which I again use Mobil 1).

My 2 cents worth.
 
I personally use Mobil 1 4T 10W40 motorcycle oil. But you use what you like and feel comfortable with. Everybody has different opinions and experiences with oil. Just make sure that it will be motorcycle safe. Most car oils with the "energy conserving" rating are bad. So it's easier for most people to just buy a motorcycle oil, be it standard, semi synthetic blend or synthetic. It's what you like to use.

The final drive oil should be changed at 600 miles, 7,500 miles, 15,000, 24,000, and 30,000 as per the service manual. I normally do mine about once a year lately (as I'm winterizing). Since I normally only put 5 to 10 thousand on the bike a year. But what you do is up to you. using synthetic oil should give you a longer oil life. But that of course is debatable, like everything else in oil threads!  :))
 
Yikes .... i have been changing my rear diff oil with each oil change.  :))


prolly wont now that is been changed twice.
 
I've have used Mobil One 10-40 weight since 3000 miles on my '09 ABS (am now close to 20K).  I change the oil filter using a Fram 6017 which I get at a local Walmart when I do the oil change.  I use 80 weight, per the manual, in the final drive, but I only do my final drive every other oil change.  (it takes very little oil or time and therefore can't hurt to do it more often than is recommended.  I would use the recommended 80-90 weight in your final drive, the higher viscosity sticks to the gears better and helps to stop wear.  I don't change my oil based upon the miles I drive but rather upon when the oil gets dirty....sometimes I go 4,000 miles sometimes more, totally dependent upon how the oil looks and whether it will dissolve dirt/grease on my hands when I put a drop on it.  I know I change my oil before it needs to be changed, but to me oil is easy to change and it gives me peace of mind knowing my oil is fresh.  Synthetic is chemically identical to normal oil with the major exception that synthetic is totally pure (it has none of the impurities of normal oil such as sulphur and other nasty stuff).  This makes synthetic oil much better at dissolving dirt and gunk than normal oil as well as less likely to create sludge from the normal impurities of regular oil interacting with the normal byproducts of an internal combustion engine.  BUT, this advantage of synthetic oil can be nullified by using a comparable regular oil if you want to change your oil more often.  (more oil changes are needed because regular oil cannot dissolve as much of the gunk as synthetic without becoming over saturated which then leads to sludge and oil breakdown.  The main thing to remember is that your engine oil does three basic things...it cools your engine, it lubricates your engine, and it dissolves the byproducts of internal combustion and metal on metal wear and tear.
 
It's so easy that it doesn't make any sense to let the dealer do it. I began using the Mobil I at the 600 mile change. The final drive is also very easy and a quart will do a lot of changes since it takes so little.

I got a free filter wrench from Cycle Gear when I bought my first batch of Mobil I and it works great. It's one that fits any size filter and uses a cam action to tighten to the right size.

Jump in there and wrench it yourself. It's easy and cheaper.
 
You have to remember that not everyone has the mechanical ability, tools and place to do even minor maintenance. So I understand when they feel they are not able. But it is one of the easier things to do on your own to save money.
 
It's really hard to mess up a simple oil change, but my brother-in law managed it. He didn't realize the old oil filter gasket did not come off with the old filter.  He put the new filter on and tightened it down,  now with two gaskets.  It leaked and caused other problems.  So I always check my gaskets to be sure.  That, and overtightening the filter or overfilling the bike with new oil are probably the only things to go wrong.  Take your time....You can do it. 
 
Yes it's one of the easiest things you can do.  Just don't overtighten the drain bolt (I use a calibrated wrist, but if you aren't comfortable with that then use a torque wrench)  It takes WAY less tightness then you would think and is easy to overtighten...

The other thing, is make sure you put a coat of fresh motor oil on the gasket of the new oil filter before screwing it onto the bike, and then ONLY hand tighten it (Tighten it down good...but use hands only)

Just get a new filter, 4.7 qts of oil (that do NOT have friction modifiers) and you are all set

Ps,  I know there is a huge filter debate raging on another thread, in response to an earlier post, I would never use a fram filter on any vehicle of mine as they are doo doo IMHO

OEM or K&N is my reccomendation...
 
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