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Driving light install. Need Help running power to new lights.

ss1179852

Woody in BC
Member
Good day to all. I have installed two driving lights on my canyon bars.
There are pre wires under the seat I could use to power these.
I looked thru my manual and it looks like there may be some prewired accessory leads under the front left panel under the handle bars.
Could anyone confirm this?
My hope is to tie in there rather than running back to under the seat.
Don’t want to pull off the front plastics until I get confirmation there is power available there.

Will install a water proof switch on the dash in the capped location on the left side and of course run a fuse.
I’m not an electrician so would appreciate some of the excellent advice out there.

Thanks
Woody
 

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That is a really cool looking installation! There is pre wired power available under the left front panel. It is a bullet connector with a blue or green plastic cover if I remember correctly (at lease on a 2012).

Although it is more work I have always preferred to run power from a distribution plate from under the seat.

I hope that helps.
 
power from the back is fused key switch on. i did hyperlites instead
 

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+1 Following
Interesting. Need to know more about how the electrical is being managed so it doesn’t get too messy but also doesn’t melt anything.
 
There should be power and ground leads in a black boot behind the left front fairing pocket and another in the back under the seat tail, but I'd be careful and figure out the power draw vs this circuit's capacity.
 
Looks like you have a '09? ....if so you should have 10 amp fuse in the Aux circuit. Just remember if you use the AUX mentioned wires
under the front left black boot that anything you plug in at the power plug on the dash will be on the same circuit as those lights. I'm fairly certain'that those LED lights aren't pulling more than a few amps (maybe 1.25 each?) so you are good until you plug something with a big draw in the plug and blow the AUX fuse. I see a twist on connector on the wire, I'm assuming that is just stuck on there temporarily but just in passing, I recommend you don't use that type of connector, solder and insulate the connections...or crimp the connections with insulated connectors (not the 3M clam shell type Scotchloks) or use connectors like Posi-Taps.
Good Luck!
 
Thank you for the input to all. I will be soldering and heat shrinking any connections. The market yes on the leads just temp. I want to get amperage draw reading confirmed so will use a clamp meter to measure it using some temp wires to a 12 v battery.
So to access the accesssory power leads under left front, do I need to remove much of the plastics? Sounds like you guys have done this before. And I really appreciate the help. Got a fuse and waterproof switch ordered.
Excellent to have support!
 
I would love to assist, but I think there is a slight difference between how the top side covers are removed on different Gen bikes...probably need someone that has owned both generations to be sure...but on a Gen II the top side cover on the left needs to be removed and the central top cover...so You might need to remove your central glove box to get the top left side cover off, raising the windshield all the way up and then holding the up button while you shut off power should leave it in the up position. I mention the latter because the Gen IIs have a plastic rivet under the windshield that holds the side top cover on.....But!...since I've only rented a GEN I and not owned one...I'm kinda pulling half this Gen I info from a very dark region. :confused:
 
Marty. ( and all who jumped in)
You have been extremely helpful.
👍. I have about a month before I get on the road. I’ll keep posting how things are going.
If I have to I’ll run it down to my local shop for some advice. They are good people. I don’t want to break any plastics. $$$
All the info in this chain has been really helpful.
 
Follow up on the driving light install.
Routed the leads from the lights to the area of the 12 v prewired bullet connectors up front that are on the 10 v aux circuit. Draw from each lamp is 1.4 amps so am confortable this will not overload this circuit
The orange and yellow wire is stranded copper blasting wire. Extremely durable. Soldered and heat shrink Ed the connections and zip Tied in place with some slack.

Heading out to find a waterproof switch to mount in the spare round accessory cover.
Will use a step drill to make the hole, mount the switch with waterproof connections and tuck the extra wire in the boot in place.

See the pics attached and wish me luck!
 

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Lights working.
Just need to adjust them.
Not drawing much current at all.
Light switch on dash goes green when on.
I’m pleased! 👍
 

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I don’t have the model number.
But got it at Lordco. A western Canadian chain that sells auto parts.
Napa auto should have it. Under 10 Canadian. It was the only one with a weatherproof bellows on the switch. Fits 7/8 hole perfect
 
Woody, I like your install. Very neat.
I have a question. ie; Why did you install them?
I assume you wanted more/better light down the road. {??}

Looking at your photo, it's obvious that you didn't install LED lights on the bike.
The new LED Bulbs are white, the headlight is yellowish.
If you want more light, I suggest adding LED's to your headlights as they will do more than the driving lights do.

There are many types/brands out there and it is confusing.
Everyone has a different opinion.
I'll suggest some that many of us have used. So we know that they work.
I highly suggest the Beamtech's..

Ride safe, Ted
 
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Woody, I like your install. Very neat.
I have a question. ie; Why did you install them?
I assume you wanted more/better light down the road. {??}

Looking at your photo, it's obvious that you didn't install LED lights on the bike.
The new LED Bulbs are white, the headlight is yellowish.
If you want more light, I suggest adding LED's to your headlights as they will do more than the driving lights do.

There are many types/brands out there and it is confusing.
Everyone has a different opinion.
I'll suggest some that many of us have used. So we know that they work.
I highly suggest the Beamtech's..

Ride safe, Ted
I added 2 sets of lights. They are great for lighting up ditches and eyes but not for down the road. Added leds but haven't had a chance to try them out.
 
Woody, I like your install. Very neat.
I have a question. ie; Why did you install them?
I assume you wanted more/better light down the road. {??}

Looking at your photo, it's obvious that you didn't install LED lights on the bike.
The new LED Bulbs are white, the headlight is yellowish.
If you want more light, I suggest adding LED's to your headlights as they will do more than the driving lights do.

There are many types/brands out there and it is confusing.
Everyone has a different opinion.
I'll suggest some that many of us have used. So we know that they work.
I highly suggest the Beamtech's..

Ride safe, Ted
Ted
I will upgrade to LEDs down the road. Kinda blown the budget for this year.
Primary reason for the new lights is I want to be seen.
If I do drive at night we have a lot of deer around here
I don’t do a ton of night driving but it happens. They are pointed to the right to hit the ditches but will definitely get other drivers attention

Steve
 
Woody, I like your install. Very neat.
I have a question. ie; Why did you install them?
I assume you wanted more/better light down the road. {??}

Looking at your photo, it's obvious that you didn't install LED lights on the bike.
The new LED Bulbs are white, the headlight is yellowish.
If you want more light, I suggest adding LED's to your headlights as they will do more than the driving lights do.

There are many types/brands out there and it is confusing.
Everyone has a different opinion.
I'll suggest some that many of us have used. So we know that they work.
I highly suggest the Beamtech's..

Ride safe, Ted
Thanks for this info. Much appreciated
 
surprised no body likes hyperlites. easy to install low power draw. been using these guys for years
I have the Hyperwhites for the front and I liked them at first, but in my opinion they need a protective replaceable cover over the LEDs. My first set had a rock hit them and busted out a few of the leds. The rest still worked but then water got in through the opened led holes and it fried up crispy. To their credit Hyperlites stood behind their product and sent me a free replacement which I put in place for now but again some leds have broken from rocks...so I may just replace them with some more robust little single LED in reflectors if I can tone them down a bit to Hyperwhite brightness where it gets you daytime noticed but nobody flashes their lights at you for being too bright. I have the dual Admore light bars set up in the rear so I've never considered the Hyperlites for back there.
 
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To be clear and ensure that I'm not sounding like a product basher, my Hyperwhites are mounted low. I'm sure if they were higher up they wouldn't get hit by so many rocks.....and maybe if I didn't get too close to vehicles just before I passed them as well. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:;)

i-8vrk3bg-L.jpg


i-PnK8Bhs-M.jpg
 
lol, your not a product basher, your just a hard rider. (like me)I like my location as it looks kinda of stealthy 😉
 
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