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Emissions canister removal?

fartymarty

SC AAD
Member
I started taking my 2010 Connie apart to install a Rostra cruise control.
I got the plastic off the left side and then the plastic top cover off the right side and ...WTF!  I bought my bike new in Texas but I guess it was originally destined for California because
there is an evaporative emission control canister right where I was going to put the Rostra.

Anybody here successfully UN-Californiacise their C14? There are two hoses going to the canister, I don’t suppose I could just hook them together and still have it run OK could I?
Are there other California surprises besides the canister, is the ECU flashed different than non-California C14s?
 
#$%^&&*()!!%$# Calif Air Resources Board -- all they know how to do is cause everyone grief and expense.  I never heard of a CARB bike being sold in Texas....
 
California bikes can sometimes end up all over the place.

There are four hose associated with the evap system. They should have small colored marking tags on them, red, green, blue and white.  The green and white hoses go to the throttle bodies to get vacuum, so those must be plugged. The white hose goes from the throttle body to the separator, and the green hose goes from the throttle body to the charcoal canister. The red and blue from the tank go to the separator. Red is the return hose to return liquid fuel to the tank and blue is the vent hose. The blue hose goes from the tank to the separator, and then from another output on the separator to the canister.  See pages 3-6, 3-79, and 18-24 in the 2010 service manual. The blue hose has to be left open to allow the tank to vent and I'd probably also leave the red one open too.
 
Zedhed said:
I never heard of a CARB bike being sold in Texas....
Well you can't honestly say that anymore, for the record it was sold in Grapevine Texas.

Thanks for the info Fred. I may just plug the green line and put a small filter on the blue one and leave the
separator in place. I'll report back with the results. I was watching your DVD #10 and when you removed the
right side top cover and pointed the camera down I was envious of all that empty space. Who knows maybe the
canister bracket will make a great Rostra mount.

Thanks again Fred.

 
good info and i looked at this to Fred H.
Concours 1400 Maintenance Videos  http://www.angelridevideos.com time to save up some money
 
Fred_Harmon_TX said:
The green and white hoses go to the throttle bodies to get vacuum, so those must be plugged. The white hose goes from the throttle body to the separator, and the green hose goes from the throttle body to the charcoal canister. The red and blue from the tank go to the separator. Red is the return hose to return liquid fuel to the tank and blue is the vent hose. The blue hose goes from the tank to the separator, and then from another output on the separator to the canister.  See pages 3-6, 3-79, and 18-24 in the 2010 service manual. The blue hose has to be left open to allow the tank to vent and I'd probably also leave the red one open too.

On the C10, if you didn't cap the red line port on the tank, you could have gas dribble out of there when the tank was full. I'd suggest capping the port on the tank, ya never know.
 
OK, I've finally finished....almost..I left the separator in place because it wasn't in my way and it may actually help my mpg, although I'm not sure how it works.
I removed the canister because it was in my way, which left me with the blue and green hoses to deal with. I plugged the green line with a smooth shouldered bolt and clamp, and moved it back behind the foam wall. I put a small breather type filter on the blue line and moved the hose so it was lower and out of my way. An hour and a half test ride seemed to indicate that all was well with this arrangement. This left me lots of room for the Rostra CC install and a Stebel compressor mount.

Thanks to Fred H. for the advice and the Diagram post.  :c017:
 
fartymarty said:
I left the separator in place because it wasn't in my way and it may actually help my mpg, although I'm not sure how it works.

The purpose of the seperator is to seperate liquid gas from gas vapor. It routes the liquid gas back into the tank (via the RED hose), and sends the vapors to the canister. It is needed because if you send liquid gas to the charcoal canister, the cansiter will become saturated and ruined when the charcoal gets soaked with raw gas.
 
I am running into the same thing on a 2011 C14 purchased in Alabama.  I too want to remove the canister.  Marty, have you had any issues since removing the canister?
 
Fred, thanks a lot for the diagram and the explanation.  That was a big help.

A plug for your maintenance videos also while I am at it.  They are well worth the money for anyone considering purchasing them.  Extremely helpful in removing the bodywork to install the Rostra CC.
 
BamaCOGer said:
  Marty, have you had any issues since removing the canister?

None.

BamaCOGer said:
A plug for your maintenance videos also while I am at it.  They are well worth the money for anyone considering purchasing them.  Extremely helpful in removing the bodywork to install the Rostra CC.

:iagree:
 
I bought the stock parts for a federal bike and removed the California parts. I plugged the extra port on the tank and it all looks stock and works well.
 
jwolffie said:
I bought the stock parts for a federal bike and removed the California parts. I plugged the extra port on the tank and it all looks stock and works well.

I'm curious, if you didn't get a new tank without the extra port, what stock parts for a Federal bike did you need to purchase?  ???
 
Hi Guys,

I have the canister on my 08. I need the room to install  Wolo horn.
do any of you have a detailed procedure for what to do with the hoses?

thanks
 
I have removed all of the CARB system and installed vacuum hoses on all four throttle bodies with the ends plugged for balancing at a later time. The two hose bibs coming out the back of the fuel tank must be vented, (trust me :banghead: ) if you don't you will be unable  to open the gas cap. I installed two vacuum/vent hoses from the tank ,red & blue, that just end somewhere near the swingarm pivot.
This is not complicated or difficult, but you must pay attention to what you are doing. Getting to the gas station and finding that the gas cap is broken/stuck is not good for your blood pressure. Also the engine will potentially be running lean/hot with the fuel tank under vacuum making the fuel pump work harder.
If your looking for simplicity just disconnect all hoses. Plug the ones coming from the throttle bodies and leave the ones from the fuel tank open ended.
 
Deepsea said:
The two hose bibs coming out the back of the fuel tank must be vented, (trust me :banghead: ) if you don't you will be unable  to open the gas cap. I installed two vacuum/vent hoses from the tank ,red & blue, that just end somewhere near the swingarm pivot.

This is partly wrong. The RED hose port MUST be capped on the tank. This port is the vapor/fuel RETURN line from the seperator. If you do not cap the port, gas may possibly run out of the port when the tank is full because that port terminates INSIDE the tank near the top.

The BLUE is the tank vent. This one is OK to leave open with a hose routed as suggested as it is the tank vent. It terminates up at the filler cap.

The UNMARKED or BLACK port is a water drain from around the filler neck. This one is OK to leave open with a hose routed as suggested.

I've seen guys leave all the stuff installed, but in error swap the red and blue hoses at the tank and then not understand why their bike doesn't run right.

(corrected to remove which side the red hose is on)
 
OK, I've finally finished....almost..I left the separator in place because it wasn't in my way and it may actually help my mpg, although I'm not sure how it works.
I removed the canister because it was in my way, which left me with the blue and green hoses to deal with. I plugged the green line with a smooth shouldered bolt and clamp, and moved it back behind the foam wall. I put a small breather type filter on the blue line and moved the hose so it was lower and out of my way. An hour and a half test ride seemed to indicate that all was well with this arrangement. This left me lots of room for the Rostra CC install and a Stebel compressor mount.

Thanks to Fred H. for the advice and the Diagram post. :c017:
I'm removing the fuel tank for an add-on and was thinking of removing the emissions equipment like you did. Don't NEED to, but would like to.
Marty....did you notice any changes in the bike's operation since removal?? Smoother? Better MPG? ANYTHING????
Just trying to justify the removal beyond the simple dislike of all things CARB.
 
I only removed it for space. It took up some room that I needed for the Rostra and an airhorn compressor. I don't hate all things CARB. I only removed the canister nothing else. I saw no change in any performance nor mpg numbers.
 
I only removed it for space. It took up some room that I needed for the Rostra and an airhorn compressor. I don't hate all things CARB. I only removed the canister nothing else. I saw no change in any performance nor mpg numbers.
Thanks so much.
My buddy and I talk about (someday) adding cruise control to our respective Connies, so maybe I'll wait until that time comes to conquer this task.
Cheers!
 
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