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Fork removal and oil change

gr8scott

Member
Member
For those who have removed your front forks on a '99 or similar, can it be done while on the center-stand and jacked back (tipped) onto the rear wheel, or does the front have to be even higher than that?

Also, I'm a bit confused on a couple items if I only want to change the oil...

How much disassembly of fairings is needed to get forks off (other than front wheel and fender)?

How do you know how much oil to put back in (Clymer kind of baffled me)?

Or should I just invest in a vacuum pump and suck out all the old oil without pulling the forks (but the refill question remains)?

Ready? GO!
TIA,
Scott
 
You can change the oil with a vacuum pump, I've done it a few times but really it's not that hard to take the forks off and do it proper. You can remove them like you said by putting something flat under the belly pan and jacking it to where the rear time touches the ground, tie off the center stand so the bike won't creep forward on the center stand, then you can remove the calipers, front fender and front wheel. Put a towel on your tank to protect the paint when you remove the handle bars. Loosen the triple tree clamps and ease out the forks, pay attention to the brake, clutch line placement, remember to have another towel ready to place the springs and dampers on when you pour out the old fluid, also place them to remember their order. Find a way to keep them inverted overnight and pump them a few times to get all the old oil out. Get a good flashlight and something about a foot or so long and tape off the correct length that the oil will be from the top of the fork with your tape mark flush with the top of the fork, IIRC, mine is ever so slightly under 6 inches converted from mm's with the forks compressed, I have a 2001 and I don't think yours is different, but, consult the manual for this number and year of your bike and whether the forks are compressed or extended during fill, keep them vertical. Pump them a few times after the initial fill. Reassemble in reverse order. Ride. That's all off the top of my head, I think I got it all, it's early in the morning here though:). Get a Factory manual, they are not expensive for what info you get, I have the factory, Clymer's and a Haynes. It all sounds daunting, but it's not. Good luck. Again, trust but confirm, this was just me thinking out loud.
 
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Strawboss is correct that pulling the forks is the most proper, but (If you just plan to change the oil) doing it with the vacuum pump will work fine.

Important; Before you remove the fork caps, loosen the upper tripple tree pinch bolts...

Couple of suggestions;
Use Automatic transmission fluid. (I use it in my C-10's)
,,,,Fork oil and ATF are both anti foaming hydraulic oils, and ATF is between 10 and 15 weight so it's the weight that you want.
,,,ATF is a "lot" cheaper, so, you can suck it out a couple of times to get all the old fork oil out, and you can change again if dis-satisfied.
{you won't be}

Use the vacuum pump to set the correct oil level.
... Attach a section of tubing to the end of the vacuum hose, and mark a place 6 1/2" from the end.
,,,Compress the forks.
,,,Fill the fork tubes to about 4-5" from the top.
,,,Exercise the forks to get all the air out.
,,,Fully compress the forks. {springs out}
,,,Put the tubing into a fork tube to the 6 1/2" mark and suck the oil out.
,,,, Suck the oil out until you suck air... {When you suck air; the oil level "is exactly 6 1/2"}
,,,Repeat process on other fork tube.
,,,Fully extend forks, install fork springs and caps.
,,, retighten upper tripple tree pinch bolts.
,,,Done.....

Ride safe, Ted

PS: While you have the fork springs out, you can remove 3-4" from them, and make a 3-4" spacer.
,,,,Then install the shortened springs and spacers as you normally install the springs.
,,,, the shortened spring wills decrease sag, and prevent dive when braking. {and it's free}
,,,, If interested, I can explain further...
 
If you do it the way Ted says, be careful when removing the caps and springs, the forks tend to dive when you remove the second cap if the front end isn't supported under the belly pan with the forks extended, use a jack so you can slowly lower and lift the bike for measurement and reassembly and do one side at a time. SLOWLY remove the springs and let the old oil drip back into the forks. Mind the threads on the caps and be careful to not crossthread them.
 
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Anybody opened up the C14 front forks, I understand the springs are under pressure and it should be done in a shop with the proper tools?
 
If you do it the way Ted says, be careful when removing the caps and springs, the forks tend to dive when you remove the second cap if the front end isn't supported under the belly pan with the forks extended, use a jack so you can slowly lower and lift the bike for measurement and reassembly. SLOWLY remove the springs and let the old oil drip back into the forks. Mind the threads on the caps and be careful to not crossthread them.
I agree!!! Particularly; be careful when removing the caps and springs!

Ride safe, Ted
 
If the forks on you 99' haven't ever been fully serviced you should really consider taking them apart to change the upper and lower bushings while you have them out on the bench with all the oil out of them. The bushings have a very thin anti friction coating on them that helps them slide up and down inside the fork tubes. Along with dampening, the the oil in the tubes helps out wear rate on the bushings, if the oil hasn't been changed in a long time the coating wears off much faster. After 20 years that coating is long gone and you probably have a good amount of sediment in the bottom of the forks. It would be kind of a shame to not give them a full service...you will be much happier with the results. If your intimidated by the thought of taking your forks apart and changing the bushings, seals and oil, don't be. There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing step by step how to separate them. It's not that hard or complicated.
 
For touring03... it can be done in ur garage but will require some special tools. Traxion has a universal fork kit that includes syringe and gauge for measuring for the proper amount of fork oil
 
Before re-installing the caps, with the springs out, carefully start the cap into the fork. Mark where the threads on the caps start to engage the fork threads. Also, if you stand on the pegs when installing the caps, they will be easier to start straight. If you cross thread a cap all bets are off. HTH
 
So in moving my thread from gen tech discussion to suspension and tires, the moderator lost my last post/reply.

Connie-rider said to loosen the upper clamps before removing the caps, and I don't quite understand why.

Also, will ATF cause any viscosity issues in cold weather? I live in Maine.

TireGuyFromMa said full servicing isn't difficult, but don't you need some sort of special tools for dis/re-assembly?

If doing full fork servicing, Clymer has you remove lower sliders from the fork tubes while the tubes are still on the bike. Can that be done if you pull the whole leg off first?

And finally, I asked about the need for fairing removal, which Clymer says you need. Do you really?

Scott.
 
Can you give us a little insight on your mechanical skills, and available tools?
If you have never rebuilt a fork tube, the job is a little daunting. But it's EZ to do.
Best if you have a Buddy that has done one before to assist.

Connie-rider said to loosen the upper clamps before removing the caps, and I don't quite understand why.
XXX The caps are a tight fit in the fork tubes. Loosening the pinch bolts, decreases the tightness a bit.

Also, will ATF cause any viscosity issues in cold weather? I live in Maine.
XXX ATF will be the same viscosity as 10-15 wt fork oil in cold weather.
It's the same type of oil {ie; both are Anti foaming Hydraulic fluid}.
Just costs less and you can buy synthetic ATF}.

TireGuyFromMa said full servicing isn't difficult, but don't you need some sort of special tools for dis/re-assembly?
XXX He'll have to answer. I built some home made tools that help make the job easier.
1 thing that "really" helps is a metric allen socket and an impact wrench.

If doing full fork servicing, Clymer has you remove lower sliders from the fork tubes while the tubes are still on the bike. Can that be done if you pull the whole leg off first?
XXX It can be done either way...

And finally, I asked about the need for fairing removal, which Clymer says you need. Do you really?
XXX Removing some of the plastic would make it easier to reach the tripple Tree bolts, but I never remove the fairings to remove the forks.

Ride safe, Ted
 
The upper fork clamp squeeze at the threaded area of the cap on the tube.
Before you remove the front tire, take off the handle bars, loosen the upper fork bolts but not the lower and turn back all of the spring preload. Use a deep well 6 point socket and a speed handle while standing on the pegs to loosen the caps. With a speed handle you can keep downward pressure against the spring as you turn out the cap. With the tire still on you can put a lot of weight on the speed handle without having to worry about the bike tipping off a jack. Don't do both sides without additional support. Use the speed handle to put them in also. It is easer to move the cap back and forth while pushing down to start the threads. Marking the start of the thread engagement is a good idea. Trying to find the start point while pushing against the spring make it easy to cross thread.

TireGuyFromMa said full servicing isn't difficult, but don't you need some sort of special tools for dis/re-assembly?
XXX He'll have to answer. I built some home made tools that help make the job easier.
1 thing that "really" helps is a metric allen socket and an impact wrench.
XXX most of the special tools can be home made. Watch youtube videos for some pointers. The metric allen bolt may come out of the bottom of the fork with an impact or you might have to make a holding tool for the metering tube in the fork. A section of all thread with four 1 1/16" (if I remember correctly) nuts on it. Two at each end. The nuts are tightened against each other to prevent turning. The nut will fit in the metering tube and you can hold the other end while you take out the allen bolt from the end. I clamped one end of the all thread in a bench vice while I worked on the end of the fork with the impact. Some will take the bolt out of the fork before they take the cap and spring out. It might drain the fork oil when it comes out, be ready to catch it. The seal and bushings drivers can be made out of sections of pvc pipe, and the fork itself used as the driver weight. Syringe with a tube to mark the oil height, over fill and suck out the extra.

I think I just removed the side panels with the storage compartments to get some extra room for handlebar and fork removal.
 
Connie_Rider asked about my skills...

I've got okay mechanical skills, and a toolbox full of good metric wrenches, sockets, Allens, breaker bars, and torque wrenches etc, but no special purpose tools other than for plumbing.

I've been changing motor oil/filter, and changing brake pads and bleeding/flushing brake/clutch fluids myself for years, and I just replaced the rear drive and rear brake disk. Had a friend help with bearings as I don't have a puller or good drifts to hammer them out (or in). Have also pulled gauge panel to replace backlights.

Not afraid of the work, but the little OCD guy in my head wants to know the best way to do anything first. And the reasons why. Relieved to know fairing removal not really necessary as it's a royal pain, especially the front piece.

The handlebar question was the other thing that got lost in the missing post. Why remove them? They don't look in the way?
 
I have to remove mine because I have risers and they are in the way. I think this thread is getting a bit involved from your original intent. All good info, and yes, not too complicated if you've done it a few times or watched it done. Maybe just replacing the fork oil by suctioning it out might be a good beginning for you, its quick, fairly easy and it gets you started in working on the bike and understanding it a little better. If in the near future, say, a few months or so you may feel sporty, you can tackle some more of the involved procedures in upgrading or disassembly of the forks themselves. Thats what I did, I got a Kawasaki shop manual from the dealer and after changing my fork oil once, I dropped the forks and upgraded to emulators with all that was involved with that, that may be a choice now for you.
 
I'm installing new tires in a few weeks so I'm going to do the fork oil cause the wheels will be off and it's been 3 years and about 10,000 miles. I take my time, it usually takes about 2 days total because the dealer is mounting the tires. I've got a different suspension set up than normal, race tech emulators, yellow springs on those and 7wt fork oil, I'm going up to 10wt oil this time. The job like most things isn't difficult at all, it's the set up and getting to the parts and buttoning up that takes the time.
 
@gr8scott

Having recently done this here are my comments..

How much disassembly of fairings is needed to get forks off (other than front wheel and fender)? I took off just the black fairing innards to get to everything pretty easy. The colored plastic I left in place. A side note: I used 2 opposing straps on the triple clamp to an overhead support to steady the bike...keep it off the front wheel assembly...in addition to the center stand and floor jack. For fork removal I don't think the front end doesn't have to be any higher than that as long as the rear wheel is touching the ground and the front wheel is off.
How do you know how much oil to put back in (Clymer kind of baffled me)? I made sure that my forks were very empty (multiple cycle purges by exercising the fork operation) then refilled using the prescribed volume per the manual in each fork.

My 2003 fluid was original. I needed to replace fork seals and glad I did it myself. I had only done 1 bike before (klr650). I did order a specific hex drive socket to fit the interior "nut";. I already had the extension to reach. That along with the proper hex key at the other end and some cheater bar allowed me to disassemble the unit. 15/16 socket drive link

It is "easy" but it requires being methodical and meticulous with some steps so that things don't get permanently buggered and your bike is safe to ride. Good Luck!
 
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