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Gear oil in engine!!!

T

TJ_Ben

Bicycle
Hi all.

Last evening, I decided to change the oil & filter on my bike before what was supposed to be a day trip today.
I was working in the driveway and it started getting kinda dark, so after changing the oil and filter, decided to leave the final drive change for early this morning.
Anyway, long story short: This morning I discovered I accidentally topped off the last .7lt of the engine's capacity with Hypoid Gear Oil 80-90w, instead of motor oil. Must've gotten my quarts mixed up in the dark somehow.
What should I do? Am I totally screwed? Should I just re-change the oil/filter and be on my way? Have I done any permanent damage? Because I did take a spin or two around the block after the oil change.

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
If you haven't actually run the engine, there's no need to change the filter again.  The oil won't have been forced through it yet.  Just drain the oil out and refill it with the right stuff.
 
Being as that you ran it around the block, if you want ALL of it out then change the oil and filter. I assure you it didn't hurt anything though. Don't worry about it.
 
Definitely change oil filter.

Just occured to me, that gear oil has some molecular stuff that coats metals, so when you put your real motor oil in, it will be supercharged for one oil change.    :)
 
Hypoid oil is still oil,  the .7 qt you put in won't hurt anything, just drain the oil, change the filter put in clean (MOTOR) oil and call it done...
 
Changed oil and filter bright and early today.
Changed the driveline oil with the (remaining) Hypoid Gear Oil.
Seems to run just right. In fact, I feel an extra "smoothness" to the engine & trans.
Maybe It's just a subconscious thing.
Will report any unusual developments, if any.

One thing I did notice, is that filling the driveline seems to take very little oil. Had to turn the wheel a couple of times to make sure it was fully lubricated. Does this seem right to you all?

Thanks for your solidarity & support.

FB
 
TJ_BEN said:
One thing I did notice, is that filling the driveline seems to take very little oil. Had to turn the wheel a couple of times to make sure it was fully lubricated. Does this seem right to you all?
Click to expand...

It seems about right.  My C10 takes just 220ml of gear oil in the back.  I change it every 40k miles.
 
I think everyone here is dead wrong and unles you let me take your bike and "fix it" (the fix will take several years) then I think there culd be some severe consequences.......  ;)

Change yer oil and filter and don't do this again!.  Hey at least this is better than if you put diesel in the gas tank!  :-\
 
huh, just when you thought youve heard it all... :nananana:

as others have said, you changed your oil, so no worries.  although thicker, its still oil.

my only thought is to the wet clutch setup.  does anyone know if there are any friction modifiers or such in gear oil that may effect the clutch material?

otherwise, it doesnt surprise me that its shifting abit smoother!  should feel back to normal soon though, as the oil ages and thins out.
 
TJhess74 touched on what my biggest concern would be, the clutch.  The engine would really not suffer at all from the little running that was done, but the high pressure and friction modifier additives in the gear oil could have embedded in the clutch plates and maybe cause slippage.

I have an older Goldwing that I had bought from a guy that had "restored" it (it was basically what I call a "Krylon" rebuild).  It looked OK, and ran good with only 50K original miles, so I bought it.  When I came to pick it up, he gave me some extra oil that he had put in it.  It was automotive 10W-40.  I was not pleased, but had planned on putting some Amsoil motorcycle oil in it (I have been a dealer for years).

Long story short, I found that the clutch would slip, but only under full power going up hill.  I hoped that the proper Amsoil motorcycle oil would flush the additives from the clutch plates, but it never happened and the clutch continued to slip.  When I rebuilt the clutch, the original plates and springs were still servicable, so it had to be the additives.

I would change the oil and filter to get as much of the gear oil out as possible, because gear oil should have even more of the additives that you don't want in you clutch.  I would even change the oil and filter twice!

 
OK...I'm not a lubrication expert, but I don't think gear oil will be an issue with the clutch.  I say this because in automotive applications gear-oils can be used in clutch-type limited-slip diffs.  If anything, you sometimes have to add a friction modifier to reduce friction to prevent the clutches from chattering.
 
You need to check the final drive, I suspect you overfilled it by turning the wheel.  Manual says specifically not to do that when filling.  Hopefully it will just come out the vent.

one tricycle rider to another...
 
As long as you gave the gear lube time to settle (and possibly drain excess fluid out) before installing the cap. You should be fine. I also turn the wheel slowly when I add fluid. I one time had an air bubble that prevented adding enough fluid. So I always spin the wheel to make sure all the air is out. But the key is to make sure it settles before installing the cap. As stated, you do not want to over fill it if possible. Other than the not adding enough (that I caught before I rode the bike). I've never had a final drive problem of any kind. And most of my bikes over the last 30 years have been shaft drive.  ;)
 
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