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How does the spin test work for Tpms?

Finally got it. It showed 0. Duh! Easy job replacing the battery. I had 3.2 going in on the new bat so was pretty sure it would work.
 
Cool...I've never tried the spin test. I've replaced batteries in 6 TPMS's now. Just went ahead and installed them back in the wheel after I was done and all was good. I'm guessing you turn the bike on, attach a string about 24" to the valve stem and spin it the air just like it would rotate on the wheel and "0" should show up on the dash display..đź‘Ť
 
Cool...I've never tried the spin test. I've replaced batteries in 6 TPMS's now. Just went ahead and installed them back in the wheel after I was done and all was good. I'm guessing you turn the bike on, attach a string about 24" to the valve stem and spin it the air just like it would rotate on the wheel and "0" should show up on the dash display..đź‘Ť
Yep. It took a bit of spinning. I also tried spinning the wheel after I mounted the tire but couldn't get it to read. I think if you check for good voltage on the leads going to the unit you will be good.
 
I did both my my TPMS units prior to starting the new season with new rubber (I will not mention the tire brand or model because that leads down a path I will no longer travel/discuss - to each is own). And I also installed a 45 degree valve stem on the rim - see the link below for details....


I first tried soldering wires on the coin cells, one worked, and one started leaking just after the solder cooled. Translation: bad idea from the start, because lithium batteries don't really like heat that much and why take the risk? So I put that project aside until the batteries with the tabs already installed arrived from Amazon (I think it was less than $6.00 for a pair). I heated up the soldering station and had the new batteries on the units in about 10 mins, reassembled them, and had them back on the rims in under an hour. The tires were replaced two days later and I was ready for the road. OR SO I THOUGHT........!

I have not seen a tire pressure on my dash since the battery change........ and that was more than a month ago. The only thing that makes sense to me is, I think I got the polarity backward on the batteries in my rush to replace them, sigh. But I will need to remove the tires to be sure and if I did I have no idea if the electronics will even survive the error if that is in fact what happened. I'm still kicking myself over it and this is the only thing I have done with her that did not go well. :(
 
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I did both my my TPMS units prior to starting the new season with new rubber (I will not mention the tire brand or model because that leads down a path I will no longer travel/discuss - to each is own). And I also installed a 45 degree valve stem on the rim - see the link below for details....


I first tried soldering wires on the coin cells, one worked, and one started leaking just after the solder cooled. Translation: bad idea from the start, because lithium batteries don't really like heat that much and why take the risk? So I put that project aside until the batteries with the tabs already installed arrived from Amazon (I think it was less than $6.00 for a pair). I heated up the soldering station and had the new batteries on the units in about 10 mins, reassembled them, and had them back on the rims in under an hour. The tires were replaced two days later and I was ready for the road. OR SO I THOUGHT........!

I have not seen a tire pressure on my dash since the battery change........ and that was more than a month ago. The only thing that makes sense to me is, I think I got the polarity backward on the batteries in my rush to replace them, sigh. But I will need to remove the tires to be sure and if I did I have no idea if the electronics will even survive the error if that is in fact what happened. I'm still kicking myself over it and this is the only thing I have done with her that did not go well. :(
Bummer. I watched the polarity closely. So far so good.
 
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