Hydrolock: inevitable or situational?

[lmward0051021]

I’ve read somewhere that some don’t ever modify carbs and their Connie never experienced hydrolock. My bike has 25k and I’ve not had hydrolock.

Is hydrolock a certainty, just a matter of time? Or, if ridden often enough and with the frequent use of fuel additives, can it be avoided?

Certainty or potentially?

if it’s a certainty, I’ll get the carbs off and send them to Steve.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mercer]

Steve's tube in carbs is cheap insurance!

I did tubes myself as a preventative. But it was a PIA as had one #4 I think that leaked.

Had to redo it.

Steve would have been simpler and he guarantees his work.

I use a stock tap. Rebuilt and internally polished to a very fine fit.

This is backed up by a manual tap. Then an inline filter. My tank filter is removed.

The inline filter allows visual inspection. I have thrown one away after a bad tank fill.

I use additives as well in fuel to keep needle rubbers pliable.

I did all this because a bent rod is expensive. I was having sticking floats and fuel tap
leaks as bike aged.

I have none of this now due to additives, fuel filter, and scrupulous tap rebuild.
I believe manual tap backup is a safety net as well as tubes too. Carb tubes are a backup for all.

One stuck float or tap could destroy your motor!
A little puddle of gas from a tube gives you an indicator something is wrong
and which carb before you would ever press the starter.

Failsafe! Oh did I say "Cheap Insurance"!

 

[Mercer]

PS:

I gave up on aftermarket float needles too. Only MAW KAW needles now.

Even if I buy a cheaper rebuild kit I still get Kawasaki float needles.

Also I do polish float needle seats with toothpaste and q-tip in a drill.

Any sticking float is a C10 killer without Steve's tube fix..............................at the very least!

 

[greenie]

Two conditions have to occur first. The fuel shut-off fails and a carb allows the gas to flow. I rode from 1991 until 2012 and never had the two conditions occur. My bike is parked under cover and I do use various fuel treatments - Seafoam or Techron and now use TCW3 2 stroke oil. Just to be doubly cautious I've had SISF's drains since 2013.
With forums like this we hear of problems and sometimes wrongly assume that our bikes are unreliable because people speak more of issues than of carefree ownership.

 

[Cra-z1000]

Not a certainty if carbs are kept in top shape and petcock too . I've had my bike going on 12 years and changed petcocks twice now . I had Steve do the carbs with overflows right away but have not had to use them . I remove and rebuild/clean the carbs at first sign of any poor running conditions . Have cleaned and rebuilt them twice since Steve did them .

 

[Mercer]

Bikes reliability is a maintenance issue and a finite time life of parts. As our bikes get older
we need pay attention to both more scrupulously.

I like the extra insurance of tubes, external filter and manual tap as backup.

 

[Mercer]

Some would say ugly. But I love the visual inspection of fuel system status. Could be behind fairing panel easily. But that defeats my purpose of regular inspection.

Oh do so like a manual chain tensioner after original failed and then the newer designed version failed.

 

[Mercer]

Two conditions have to occur first. The fuel shut-off fails and a carb allows the gas to flow. I rode from 1991 until 2012 and never had the two conditions occur. My bike is parked under cover and I do use various fuel treatments - Seafoam or Techron and now use TCW3 2 stroke oil. Just to be doubly cautious I've had SISF's drains since 2013.
With forums like this we hear of problems and sometimes wrongly assume that our bikes are unreliable because people speak more of issues than of carefree ownership.

Do you live in a humid climate or dry if I may ask?

Would like to try a bike cover but fearful of trapping moisture as my humid climate is a disaster for condensation on metal.

Never see any around my area.

 

[lmward0051021]

Thanks for the input everyone! Since I ride quite often and keep a close eye on the bike, I’ll finish the summer out and, in fall, take the carbs out and send them out for that “cheap insurance”.

Mercer, that’s a nice fuel setup you have there! What manual valve do you have?

 

[Mercer]

8mm 5/16" Hose Barb Inline Brass Water/Air Gas Fuel Line Shut-off Ball Valve _xg | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 8mm 5/16" Hose Barb Inline Brass Water/Air Gas Fuel Line Shut-off Ball Valve _xg at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Got mine off Amazon though. This one is same for way less do believe, There are others. Search 5/16 or 8mm fuel cut off. Good luck!

There is a black with red handle plastic one out there too. Brigs and Stratton do believe. Not sure if it is 5/16 though.

 

[lmward0051021]

Ok awesome. I will look into doing this for my Connie.

 

[greenie]

"Do you live in a humid climate or dry if I may ask?" ... I live in Maine. Pretty humid, and up until 2020 I lived within 1,000' of the ocean. During the winter the bike is parked in a heated garage.

 

[jim snyder]

I installed a Pingel fuel valve over 10 years ago on my 02 and it's still in service today. Positive off and on positions. Sure it cost $100 but how much compared to an engine.

 

[lmward0051021]

I installed a Pingel fuel valve over 10 years ago on my 02 and it's still in service today. Positive off and on positions. Sure it cost $100 but how much compared to an engine.

Ok. Do you turn the valve off every time you shut bike off? And did you modify your carbs for the overflow tubes?

 

[jim snyder]

Ok. Do you turn the valve off every time you shut bike off? And did you modify your carbs for the overflow tubes?

Yes I turned the fuel valve off every time I shut it off. And yes I had overflow tubes installed when Steve did my carbs and installed the 2mm jet kit.

 

[Mercer]

So you have a stock vacuum tap, backed up by a 8mm manual inline shut off, an inline filter, and bowl tubes.

If above combination works as should and is in good repair. Both taps cover for each other. You still have prime, run, and reserve. If anything, fails float bowl tubes put fuel on ground and not in cylinders.

Failure mode examples:
a) you forget to turn manual tap off. Vacuum tap does it's job, if a float needle sticks, fuel runs from that carb bowl and fuel line only via overflow tube till bowl is dry. Fuel tank is not drained.
b) you forget manual tap. Float needle sticks, vacuum tap fails too. Tank runs dry on ground via overflow tube.
c) b above happens but you did remember manual tap. Only stuck needle carb bowl and fuel line drains via overflow tube.
d) you forget manual tap and leave vacuum tap in prime position too. Float needle sticks, whole tank runs dry on ground via overflow tube.

In none of these scenarios does fuel drain into motor because of carb bowl tubes!

Not for everyone but it is very frugal and dual taps offer some redundancy. Keeping stock tap keeps provides reserve.

 

[Cra-z1000]

Every now and then I crack the carb drains one by one just enough to be sure the hoses on the carb drains are clear so I know the overflows will work . Never know when a bug may make a home in there .

 

[Mercer]

These two below are more elegant solutions. Jim mentioned one. But I like the vacuum tap backed up by a manual tap.

Sometimes someone comes up to compliment the Concours while I am parking. The manual tap procedure
gets neglected and forgotten in the exchange.

PINGEL® Single Outlet Reserve Fuel Valves – Motorcycle Petcocks

Motorcycle fuel valves with single outlet and reserve.

www.pingelonline.com

Kawasaki - C10/Concours/ZG1000/ - Fuel and Induction System - Page 1 - Murphskits.com

murphskits.com

 

[connie_rider]

There were some concerns that the extra hose length, and valves restrict flow?
Some have installed an electric fuel solenoid in the system too. (can be plumbed in out of sight)
I've have not installed either, but like the concept.

12 Volt .100 Orifice Multi Purpose Shut Off Valve - 12 Volt Fuel Valves

12 Volt .100 Orifice Multi Purpose Shut Off Valve Engineered for recreational vehicles, marine, automotive and dispensing applications.

12voltfuelvalves.com

This one is a solenoid for a car so lots of volume. (but a car has a fuel pump to push the fuel thru.)

Multi Purpose Shut Off Valve RV and Marine - 12 Volt Fuel Valves

Multi Purpose Shut Off Valve Rated working pressure 312 PSI. Minimum draw; less than .75A, 12 VDC when fully energized. Easy to install. Ambient temperature rating; -40°F to +250°F or 170°F liquid. Optional mounting holes inbase. Every unit tested for low/high pressure leaks and dielectric...

12voltfuelvalves.com

 

[Mercer]

I bought a solenoid. Be careful, The orifice was tiny and a step down from it's rated size,
Would not buy one off net. You need to see and examine it in person would think.

I would have liked to use it!

 

[Ranger Jim]

I had my 2000 C10 for 16 years and 98K miles, rebuilt my carbs twice in that time. I installed the NAPA in-line fuel filter but never did the overflow tubes.

I replaced the OEM petcock with another OEM petcock at about 94K purely as a preventive maintenance thing. I used some additives (Seafoam & TCW3).

Bike was stored outside on the centerstand under a Kawasaki cover under a covered porch in South Carolina. Bike ran perfectly.

IMO, hydrolock is not inevitable. It can and does happen but several things have to happen together: 1. The fuel petcock either has to have been left in "Prime" or it has to fail. 2. A carb needle has to stick open. 3. The intake valves for the open carb have to be open.

It can happen. It's bad when it does. SISF's overflow tubes/carb rebuild is much less expensive.

 

[2andblue]

I had my 2000 C10 for 16 years and 98K miles, rebuilt my carbs twice in that time. I installed the NAPA in-line fuel filter but never did the overflow tubes.

I replaced the OEM petcock with another OEM petcock at about 94K purely as a preventive maintenance thing. I used some additives (Seafoam & TCW3).

Bike was stored outside on the centerstand under a Kawasaki cover under a covered porch in South Carolina. Bike ran perfectly.

IMO, hydrolock is not inevitable. It can and does happen but several things have to happen together: 1. The fuel petcock either has to have been left in "Prime" or it has to fail. 2. A carb needle has to stick open. 3. The intake valves for the open carb have to be open.

It can happen. It's bad when it does. SISF's overflow tubes/carb rebuild is much less expensive.

Same for me - owned the C10 for several years. My petcock did fail on me once, luckily leaked the fuel all over the ground and not through the carbs…

I did on more occasions than I’d like to admit leave the petcock in prime mode but fuel filter, yearly cleaned carbs / needle replacement and frequent draining kept from having much in the way of carb problems.

Fuel injection is similar to chain to shaft transition. Carbs / chains require a little more maintenance and when taken care of and adjusted adequately rarely a problem.

 

[gr8scott]

FWIW, my '99 has nearly 102,000 miles on original unmodified carbs.

Scott

 

[nosmo]

I installed a Pingel fuel valve over 10 years ago on my 02 and it's still in service today. Positive off and on positions. Sure it cost $100 but how much compared to an engine.

Yeah....plus.....it's CHROME PLATED!!

 

[jim snyder]

Yeah....plus.....it's CHROME PLATED!!

Well mine was the polished aluminum finish but it was still pretty.