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Lightening the steering

Cherryriver

Guest
Guest
So I find myself with another Connie, an '01, and while it's a project at the moment, I fully expect to ride it once the engine is either righted or replaced.
I had an '86 back in the day- traded an old, slightly tatty ray-gun Trident for it, but then, it was 1988- and it came with about 25,000 and left with 126K.
So, obviously, I really liked it.
But my absolute least favorite thing about it, and the other Kawasakis of that era, was the slow, heavy steering. Back then, a set of Heli Multi-Tour Sport handlebars in a Storz plate provided some relief on the Connie but nowhere near enough. I got by because I was a much younger tradesman with enough strength to bully the bike into submission.
Still, I never liked that steering feel, nor that of the ZX1100E (GPZ) that followed it, or the more recently-owned ZRX1100.
Indeed, the Missus, a bit of newer rider, loved the look of the ZRX and planned to graduate to it someday. Yeah, but despite being quite athletic, fighting that handlebar killed that love affair right quick.
So in the intervening decades, has there been any sort of consensus as to how to lighten the touch needed at the grips?
I figure to maybe widen the existing bars a bit, a trick I pulled on my FJR1300 to excellent result (you more or less add on short lengths of cut handlebar material, figure a way to draw them tight into the stock bar end, and move the controls. The FJR took me all of about 40 minutes and is a marvel in town with no compromise on the Interstate.)
Or, I have a set of Heli Horizon bars and that old Storz plate, which might be a bit.
But has there been any other jiggery-pokery along these lines while I was away?
Bill
 
Ur gonna have to do some searching on the search engine here...

Maybe ted (connie rider) or any of the older members who still do some tinkering on c10's, can send u down the right path grasshopper..
 
I bought an adapter and put old KZ900 bars on mine. They’re a bit too wide.
I’m going to replace them this winter

Last I checked, Murphs still had adapters

Best Regards
Bob
 
I went with the ZRX front end mostly for brake, better suspension 17” rim that actually fits a 120 width tire. If you want faster dive in 110 front tire will help but it will want to dive in.
 
Wider bars on a Storz or other adapter will lighten steering over OEM.

I did this to both my 2000 C10 and former 95 ZX1100E and never looked back.
 
So I find myself with another Connie, an '01, and while it's a project at the moment, I fully expect to ride it once the engine is either righted or replaced.
I had an '86 back in the day- traded an old, slightly tatty ray-gun Trident for it, but then, it was 1988- and it came with about 25,000 and left with 126K.
So, obviously, I really liked it.
But my absolute least favorite thing about it, and the other Kawasakis of that era, was the slow, heavy steering. Back then, a set of Heli Multi-Tour Sport handlebars in a Storz plate provided some relief on the Connie but nowhere near enough. I got by because I was a much younger tradesman with enough strength to bully the bike into submission.
Still, I never liked that steering feel, nor that of the ZX1100E (GPZ) that followed it, or the more recently-owned ZRX1100.
Indeed, the Missus, a bit of newer rider, loved the look of the ZRX and planned to graduate to it someday. Yeah, but despite being quite athletic, fighting that handlebar killed that love affair right quick.
So in the intervening decades, has there been any sort of consensus as to how to lighten the touch needed at the grips?
I figure to maybe widen the existing bars a bit, a trick I pulled on my FJR1300 to excellent result (you more or less add on short lengths of cut handlebar material, figure a way to draw them tight into the stock bar end, and move the controls. The FJR took me all of about 40 minutes and is a marvel in town with no compromise on the Interstate.)
Or, I have a set of Heli Horizon bars and that old Storz plate, which might be a bit.
But has there been any other jiggery-pokery along these lines while I was away?
Bill
@Cherryriver is the heaviness an issue in town puttering or more so the open road?

A technique I use to ‘lighten’ the load is steering actively using both hands. Not only are you pushing the bar into the corner you also pull with the other hand. I know it sounds too simple and crazy but it really works and does reduce fatigue, will dig better on corners and may even surprise those who have not tried it. For those of you who have not tried this - attempt with caution, these machines will jump quicker than one may think with what will feel as significantly less effort.

Possibly not helpful for you Cherryiver as it sounds you and your wife have been combatting this for many years and across multiple bikes but thought I’d share this no cost alternative.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Its a lot like the personal preferences for seats and other ergo mods.

The OEM handlebar setup is too far forward and too narrow for me..

Once I widened the bars with the Storz + wider / higher 7/8 handle bar, the change in the steering was remarkably lighter and more responsive, plus it allowed me to sit more upright which is what my neck and upper back especially needed. This along with a seat that didn't cause actual pain within 45 minutes, finally allowed me ride the machine for hours as it was designed to do.

When I ride an OEM C10, even with risers, the handling response feels like a totally different machine to me.
 
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@Cherryriver is the heaviness an issue in town puttering or more so the open road?

A technique I use to ‘lighten’ the load is steering actively using both hands. Not only are you pushing the bar into the corner you also pull with the other hand.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
I tried this on a ride this morning. Granted it was on my bars that are already wider, but made a huge difference!

Someone try it on OEM bars and chime back in.
 
Just saw this.
I never changed the bars on my C-10's, so don't have an answer on what adapter to buy.
But you're missing the easiest things you can do to lighten the steering on a C-10.

1) If you have a belted tire on the front, replace it with a radial.
2) & Install a 110/100-ZR18 instead of the 120-70ZR18 radial.

A Radial tire (particularly a narrower radial) is lighter feeling than a belted tire. (Particularly a Gold Wing sized belted tire)

Many have changed from a 120/70ZR-18 to a 110/80ZR-18 on the front to quicken turn-in.

I basically did that same change to both ends of my bike.. <evil grin>
ie; I also changed from a 150/80ZR-16 to a 180/60ZR-16 on the rear.
This gives the rear tire a profile that is similar to the front tire.
When you want it to turn in, it DOES!! Yee haw...

Ride safe, Ted
 
I tried this on a ride this morning. Granted it was on my bars that are already wider, but made a huge difference!

Someone try it on OEM bars and chime back in.
First try your machine probably almost seemed flickable - right?

This was one of the valuable items I picked up from an advanced rider course. Twin the technique with putting your chin to the mirror and can you really turn!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
First try your machine probably almost seemed flickable - right?
My initial test was on my wider bars which are already much more responsive and have made the bike very flickable already. The 2 hand method was too quick, but demonstrated the advantage of the method.

Then I flipped the throttle lock on and grabbed the control switch pods further in to simulate the narrower OEM width and yes, it became very flickable with the 2 hand method!

To confirm, I went back to my normal input style and experienced the familiar sluggish response I described earlier. There is a huge difference.

I appreciate you posting that. Never too late to learn something new!
 
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Well, since so much attention is focused on the handlebars, here's a photo of the method I used to extend the bar lengths on my FJR1300.
A regular pipefitter's pipe cutter is the handiest way to get precise results.
All that was needed in this case was longer Throttlemeister hex head screws.
Then you'd want to drill locating holes for the switchgear (if you don't rub off the locating pegs- I didn't.)
The FJR has been like this for some 30,000 miles without a bit of trouble.
Meanwhile, I do indeed have a Heli Horizon conversion waiting on the shelf in case I get the engine running. So my C10 handlebar issue is settled.
And to repeat, Moto-CNC Inc. in England has excellent pipe bar conversion setups and he ships pretty quickly.
 

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Getting back to this thread a little.
I had some time to kill and pulled the stock bars. On went the Storz plate from my original Connie back around '89, and then a set of Heli Multi Tour Sport bars. Unfortunately, I didn't have a set with the taller risers like the C10 should have, but a set from a ZZR1200 with risers an inch shorter.
Still, no problems with the install apart from the awful finish on the old Helis- I promised I'd recoat them if the installation succeeded. Which it has.
This relocation to the rear, along with a minor widening, worked wonders for lightening the low speed handling.
Next, I may raise the fork tubes a little to see what that does. It helped my old ZRX quite a bit.
 

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The Murphskits fork brace and straight rate springs completely changed the feel of the bike. The fact that the forks no longer twist when your turning the wheel at low speeds helped immensely. I have a brace for 86-94 models that I want to sell. Lmk if it fits your bike.
 
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