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More Free Power Mod Praises

Ira B

Ira B

Mini Bike
Did the free power mod pretty much as Steve describes in his video.  Only exception is that I just used crimps connects w/o solder to check it out (fear of commitment) and will solder it all up and heat shrink it later.
Took 20 min. and so easy a cave man could do it.
Was truly free because I had a bit of fat gauge wire, crimps, tape ect.  Even if I had to go buy the stuff it would not be more than 5 bucks.
Clear difference in the way the bike idles, starts and runs.  Not huge but obvious. 
It seems that like so many other tips and mods it adds up in itsy bitsy improvements to make the bike run/be better.

To anyone considering this mod.  Just do it.

Thanks Steve!
 
I swear that since my friend did this for me, the fuel gauge reads a little more accurately.  Anyone else notice that?
 
Definitely solder it. The solder works a lot better if you use a splice clip to crimp the wires together then heat and solder the clip.  :great:
 
I did the mod last month and YES - big difference - especially in starting.

Can't say I noticed any difference in the fuel gauge reading - still in the red when there is 3 or so gallons?
 
Interesting about the fuel gauge.  I need to run down to Seattle in a couple of days and I'll be eyeballing it to see if it behaves differently.
First thing I noticed is that if I so much as tap the starter the bike is running. It started in a crank or two before but it is now instantaneous.  Should save some wear on the starter bits.
Should have a better impression about any other differences in a couple of days.
 
I'm getting my carbs back from SiSf this week, and will also be doing the "Free Power Modification" before I put that seat back on, thanks to his generous free knowledge and insight on that issue!

Maybe I should wait until after I install the carbs, and ride for a week, to do the seat of the pants, incremental modification rating?  :017: :motonoises:

If I do both at the same time I won't be able to rate the improvements!  Just kidding, thanks Steve! :))
 
just did the Free Power ground mod. I've only had the C10 a week, seemed to start quick, haven't test ridden it yet, but I trust you guys :)
 
With respect to all involved, cutting the ground wire is unnecessary and a wire soldered in close to the igniter box onto the Black/Yellow and run straight to a ring terminal attached to the battery - ( Neg. ) will not only provide the igniter box with a minimal ground restive path but also improve the rest of the ground circuit ( all the Black/Yellow feeds ) which are otherwise dependent on a good Black/Yellow to frame connection  ;)
 
Spanner said:
With respect to all involved, cutting the ground wire is unnecessary and a wire soldered in close to the igniter box onto the Black/Yellow and run straight to a ring terminal attached to the battery - ( Neg. ) will not only provide the igniter box with a minimal ground restive path but also improve the rest of the ground circuit ( all the Black/Yellow feeds ) which are otherwise dependent on a good Black/Yellow to frame connection  ;)
Click to expand...
This. Also make sure you clean your solenoid and clean the ground on the left hand coil.
 
I watched the video, this seems straight forward. I do have a couple of questions though. Do you increase wire guage size, and to what? I'm guessing 12ga. If not, why wouldn't you leave the stock ground lead in place and just extend that directly to the battery? From the video, it also looks like this issue is due to a poor ground to battery connection. Wouldn't improving the negative from the battery to the frame connection do the same thing?
 
I pondered ways to do this but decided it was quicker and easier to just cut the darn wire.

Did use fatter wire to run to the battery but the same gauge would probably still be an improvement.

Cleaning up the ground from the battery to frame is always a good idea but will not eliminate other bad ground to frame areas or reduce resistance in long wires that eventually lead to ground.
 
I think I showed in the video how to just connect to the ground pigtail under the seat with a connector and run it to the frame. That works well too, Maybe not as foolproof as going to the battery, but as long as the bat to frame connection and the jumper wire to frame connection is good, it accomplishes the same thing. Steve
 
Rode about 160 miles today in a wide range of road conditions including rural state highway (yeeha!) and being stuck in stop and go Seattle traffic both on city streets and I-5.

The only other performance mods on Kawazilla are a baffelectomy (another great free power mod worth doing) and backing out the idle mixture screws to two turns.  Because it is not the only mod I can not conclusively say that the wiring mod would be an enhancement by itself, but I suspect it would.

Observations.

1. There is an overall improvement in "rideability" that was especially noticeable in suckish Seattle traffic.
While the middle gears on this bike are well thought out and close, in bumper to bumper I sometimes feel like it is a little herkey jerky in one gear and lugging to much in the next highest one due to the speed of travel and ever so slightly above idle throttle setting.  Now in either of those gears the bike just feels "happier."

2. Had a few occasions to romp on it while passing on the state highway and while it is subtitle there is a slight bit more briskness in acceleration.

3. Averaged 43 MPG on corn free gas while not going easy on the spurs. After all the slogging in traffic this was a pleasant surprise.  Will be watching fuel economy closely and post my findings.

4. Was watching the fuel gauge and by gum it does seem to be reading a bit closer to accurate.  Not accurate but a bit closer.

5. It was a warm day and I was eyeballing the temp gauge the whole time I was in traffic.  It was indicating a bit cooler than usual for such conditions. 
Not sure if it is because the bike is running more efficiently or the gauge is being effected in the same way I suspect the fuel gauge is by a dedicated grounding, or both?

Going to solder and shrink wrap it all up and call it good!

Only change I plan to make from Steve's vid is to also run the common ground (the one he connects to the frame) to the battery via it's own wire.
Why Ma Kaw did not wire it this way I do not know.  This is the way it Shoudaben.  :D

 
Steve in sunny Fla said:
I think I showed in the video how to just connect to the ground pigtail under the seat with a connector and run it to the frame. That works well too, Maybe not as foolproof as going to the battery, but as long as the bat to frame connection and the jumper wire to frame connection is good, it accomplishes the same thing. Steve
Click to expand...
Ok this helps. There two ways to install this easy power mod.

First is cutting into the ground leading from the igniter and running from igniter straight to battery. Now this is where I need more info......on the tag end of the wire that was cut I should run and extension to the frame.

Now the second way to install this power mode is to just run a wire from the negative accessory plug under the seat to the frame.

I think the best way is the first as it leaves the accessory plugs free for other uses. Thanks in advance.
 
Gonna attempt it this weekend. Have to remove CStand as have made a swap with member who is reversing PO lowering and needs my OEM CStand and getting his refabbed CStand will save me time and money.
 
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