Mouting Replacement Windshield on 2000 A15

[Joel_Blackman_CA]

I have a 2000 A15 California model. I am way too tall for the stock windshield and purchased a Rifle +4 model specific for this bike. I am told you need to take the inner surface of the fairing off to install a replacement windshield because the nuts on the inside of the fairing will fall out when you remove the mounting bolts. Is there an easier way to do this installation? At $100/hr. for labor it will cost about $200 for what should be a relatively easy install. Is there any way to get those nuts to be permanently in place after this replacement?

 

[2linby]

Joel, IF you are refering to the "well nuts" on the front fairing, no they should not "fall out". I have a Rifle base on my 2001 and have had if off at least 6 times and I've not experienced any issues with the well nuts. If anything they will just spin or actually come straight out. If there are any issues they can easily be replaced. Murph sells them I am sure. AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)

 

[Bob Young]

Joel: I have an '86 with a RIFLE base and 15" windshield. I've just had to replace the windshield, but not the base. On my model, doing some crash repair on the fairing, I removed the RIFLE base and there are nylon/plastic nuts that "push" into the fairing holes and the screws go into them from the outside. I did have to remove the inner panels (glove box?) and also the small grill behind the speedometer/tach assembly to access the lower windshield screws. Not a real difficult job; just time consuming, although, really probably not more than two hours time, if that. I think this is a job best done as a "do it yourself" job, with another friend to help out or moral support. Good luck, Bob Young State of Jefferson COG #5753 C-10 A-1

 

[Tommyhof]

No, I've lost a couple of the nuts, there in there some where, I just bought new ones from Murph and puch them in, a little trick it to put a dap of silcone so they will adhere a little better. But by no means take off the fairing, you should be able to remove your OEM and just replace with the rifle. Is there any cogger near you? Most will come to share there knowledge even if it's a little it;s a good start. Virginia Beach, VA COG 6517 03 Concours (9/11/04) 01 Concours (8/16/08) USN Retired

 

[colinp386]

The trick here is not to push the screwdriver too hard into the screw head once you have loosened it as this will pop the semi-captive nut out of the fairing. once its loose enough to get something behind the head of the nut you can push against that not the captive nut. if you replace the screws with the allen head bolts from Murph the problem goes away as you need little to no inward pressure to undo them. Colin Prior Cogmos Administrator Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[Brett0769]

I love the fastener set I got from Murph. The fairing screws, for the most part, had been chewed a bit when I got the bike, leaving them with shiny edges on an otherwise black, anodized screw. It looked terrible. Murph's work better, can't be chewed up (at least not by me) and make removing the fairing much less work. Plus, they're very sharp looking IMHO.

 

[richreed701]

As Colin pointed out, as long as you are careful and don't lean on the screwdriver the "captive nuts" used for the windscreen fasteners should remain in place. Just hand-thread the machine screws when starting, then once you have hand-tightened the screw use the screwdriver. You could run into difficulty if the holes on the aftermarket screen do not perfectly match the bike. Just proceed slowly and deliberately and you should be fine. Be sure to torque down the screws starting at the center and working your way out, 1/4 turn at a time until all are snug. This will prevent cracks, even on the stock screen. If I remember correctly the Rifle instructiosn cover this. Even if you do push a nut out, do not despair. Removing the inner fairing liners is not all that hard. It's just a bunch of screws, plus the one acron nut that has to be removed anway when you replace the screen (it's attached to one of the windscreen screws). Don't forget the screws in the pockets. Also, the outside bottom of the pocket has an alignment pin that fits into the same steel bracket the pocket screw goes into. The trick is to lift the pin straight out so you can remove the inner liner. Quite often I will see these pins broken off when a ham-handed mechanic forced the issue. That in itself is not bad as the real stress is taken up by the fastener, but it makes it easier to align the holes. If you do have to "go fishing" for one of the nuts, the trick about a dab of RTV silicon in the captive nuts works great.

 

[Joel_Blackman_CA]

Thanks to everyone who responded to my windshield query. Today I installed the rifle +4" without any of the nuts falling through into the fairing. From removal of the stock to installation of the new took maybe an hour. Only problem is that Rifle does a poor job of drilling holes in their replacement base to match exactly with the mounting holes on the fairing. I have one screw that I had to put a lock washer on because it could not be screwed all the way in. Painted it black with black nail polish, can't see a thing, and the windshield is tightly attached. Really had to lean on some screws because of the poor hole match, but no nuts fell out. To think I was going to pay someone $100 to do that. Thanks for the help. I have been riding for about 45 years, but until now have been a Harley guy. Still have my Harley, but commute to work on the Concours. I will need to make some more adjustments to the Connie because I am 6' 2". probably lower the pegs and put in handlebar risers. Aside from that it is great for commuting. Until I make the other adjustments it would not be real comfortable for a long trip. Anyone have used risers and a peg lowering kit for sale?

 

[richreed701]

Joel I'd like to recommend that before you spend the bucks on peg lowering kits and bar risers that you give your body time to adjust to the Concours' riding position. You might be pleasantly surprised. You've been used the classic Harley "cruiser style" riding position and the three-point-stance of the Connie is unfamiliar to you. But, if you've ever sat a bar stool, it's the same thing. I, too, started out on cruiser bikes but now, at the ripe old age of 57, and also 6'2", my ride is a Ninja 1000R (what I call a "3/4 Concours"). Weight is evenly distributed across the body, with no undue strain on the spine, buttocks, etc. I did try the GenMar peg lowering kit (an excellent product, by the way) but the reason I used it is due more to arthritis in my right knee than overall position. In the end the lower pegs did not address the arthritis issue (pain after 3 or 4 hours in the saddle), so I've got along fine without them. You still may end up doing the mods as you described, and that's cool. But, if there's a chance you don't need them, that's quite a bit of gas money you saved.

 

[Joel_Blackman_CA]

I have arthritis in my left hip, which makes pulling my left leg up enough to get on the left peg difficult. I feel that if the pegs were 1.5" lower it would be much easier and less painful. I also have a bad right wrist, and with the bars raised 1.25" it would take some weight off that wrist.The peg lowering kit and the risers are on order.The Rifle +4 is the "cat's pajamas" for comfort. The difference is night and day from stock.

 

[rje_cne]

Joel, I am also 6' 2" and have had the Rifle +4, I just added the Murph's Knee Savers and am now quite comfortable. I haven't had any real problems with the handlebar height, just the vibration after several hours of riding. Robert Elliott Cornelia, GA 2006 C10 COG # 7598 CDA#0293

 

[richreed701]

Joel Gotcha. I agree, pain in the hip can be alleviated with lowering the pegs. GenMar makes a very nice lowering kit that retains the use of the stock footpegs, even the ability to fold up, and look pretty darn nice. What do you do for long days in the saddle? I'd be interested.