I found several references in this form to the NAPA 3006 incline fuel filter. I am now trying to figure out how to utilize it. The fuel flow arrow indicates that the "L" nipple should point down but I can't figure out how to make that work around the hose to the air breather. Does anyone have a picture of theirs?
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NAPA 3006 inline fuel filter question
- Thread starter BrianG
- Start date
Have you already added the fuel filter or considering installing one? I've never understood the need for adding a fuel filter - there's a capable one that's part of the shut off valve inside the tank. If the tank isn't rusted inside and you're having dirty gas issues I'd rather clean the tank out than add a potential air lock (I've never seen an inline gas filter that was completely full of gas) in the gas line. You're adding 2 fittings to the line, plus there's always the chance the filter can leak or abrade on a hard edge. The only fuel related issues I've ever had in the 32 years I've owned C-10's is long time deposits in carbs that a filter wouldn't have helped prevent. I keep the fuel clean and use a couple of ounces of Super-Tech outboard oil mix with TC-W3 with every fill up.
On some C10's, the stock filter in the tank can tend to ovalize at the base, allowing unfiltered fuel to pass through the petcock.
I run a NAPA 3006 equivalent which sits flat on top of carb 2 angling across with the right angle pointing down behind the carbs between carb 2 and 3, connecting to a fuel line running straight down to the plastic fuel 'T' feed at the bottom of the carb bank between carbs 2 and 3.
I run a NAPA 3006 equivalent which sits flat on top of carb 2 angling across with the right angle pointing down behind the carbs between carb 2 and 3, connecting to a fuel line running straight down to the plastic fuel 'T' feed at the bottom of the carb bank between carbs 2 and 3.
I have used an inline filter for years. This is my first attempt with the NAPA 3006. I thought that placing it on top of carb 2 would put its inlet too for forward to get a hose on it from the petcock. I'll do it that way with a long piece of hose attached that I'll cut to length once the tank in on.
@Stasch, what type clamp and what technique do you use to get it on the "T" feed?
@Stasch, what type clamp and what technique do you use to get it on the "T" feed?
You can get fuel line on that lower 'T' feed tube down between carbs 2 & 3 without removing the carb bank. I've done this several times with great success. The first time was when I went through the ENTIRE carb installation process, only to realize I hadn't put the fuel line on. That was the motivation to figure out if it could be done, and how.
Takes a gentle touch but it can be done.
Find a rod about 12" long. A thin wooden dowel is ideal. The length isn't that critical as long as it sticks up above the frame when you insert the dowel into the fuel 'T'. Ideally, the dowel / rod size should fit snugly inside the I.D. of the 'T' Tube, but its not that critical as long as it fits inside.
Now slide your fuel line down over the dowel.
This is the CAREFUL part. You've been warned, YMMV. :
Push the fuel line down over the dowel, and down to where it runs into the carb fuel feed 'T' end. WITHOUT ramming down on the dowel, push the fuel line down over the dowel. The right length dowel allows you to keep a neutral force on the dowel (so it doesn't jam down and crack the 'T', which is plastic and could be cracked) while pushing down on the fuel line.
A dowel as closely sized in O.D. to the I.D. size of the 'T' tube seems to transfer the downward pressure more evenly where the fuel line meets the tube.
If you're really good at surgeon like maneuvers, you can slide a small hose clamp down on there as well. Be mindful of the adjuster screw orientation so it will be at the rear of the tube, facing to the right of the bike.
Now you need two long screwdriver blades. 1 to reach in from the top and hold the 'T' tube angled toward the back of the bike to better get at the adjuster screw of the clamp. The 2nd screwdriver is to turn the adjuster screw from the right side of the bike.
Be patient and deliberate throughout. No ham fisting anything.
Takes a gentle touch but it can be done.
Find a rod about 12" long. A thin wooden dowel is ideal. The length isn't that critical as long as it sticks up above the frame when you insert the dowel into the fuel 'T'. Ideally, the dowel / rod size should fit snugly inside the I.D. of the 'T' Tube, but its not that critical as long as it fits inside.
Now slide your fuel line down over the dowel.
This is the CAREFUL part. You've been warned, YMMV. :
Push the fuel line down over the dowel, and down to where it runs into the carb fuel feed 'T' end. WITHOUT ramming down on the dowel, push the fuel line down over the dowel. The right length dowel allows you to keep a neutral force on the dowel (so it doesn't jam down and crack the 'T', which is plastic and could be cracked) while pushing down on the fuel line.
A dowel as closely sized in O.D. to the I.D. size of the 'T' tube seems to transfer the downward pressure more evenly where the fuel line meets the tube.
If you're really good at surgeon like maneuvers, you can slide a small hose clamp down on there as well. Be mindful of the adjuster screw orientation so it will be at the rear of the tube, facing to the right of the bike.
Now you need two long screwdriver blades. 1 to reach in from the top and hold the 'T' tube angled toward the back of the bike to better get at the adjuster screw of the clamp. The 2nd screwdriver is to turn the adjuster screw from the right side of the bike.
Be patient and deliberate throughout. No ham fisting anything.
Excellent suggestion and explanation. I looked at the exploded view in the Kawasaki service manual hoping of seeing what the clamp part looked like and was surprised that no clamp is shown at the "T" or at the petcock. I' plan to use spring band clamps at the petcock and filter. Time to rummage for a small hose clamp.
I didn't have a small enough dowel so used needle nosed pliers too. The tip about pressing down on the hose to get access to the clamp was key.
I ended up routing the fuel filter differently than @Stasch though. I just wasn't comfortable with the tight turns required of the fuel hose. I ended up running it between the carbs and the airbox. I found that I could fit the end of the filter that has the "L" nipple under the air hose so I then ran the fuel hose over the clear tube and then to the petcock. This made a more gentle sweep of the fuel hose to the petcock. I then used a cable tie to secure the filter to the frame. This may not have been necessary but I didn't what it to compress the clear tube. The end result is an unrestricted and downhill trajectory of the fuel flow. The ultimate test will be getting her out on the road. I hope that will be late next week, weather permitting.
I ended up routing the fuel filter differently than @Stasch though. I just wasn't comfortable with the tight turns required of the fuel hose. I ended up running it between the carbs and the airbox. I found that I could fit the end of the filter that has the "L" nipple under the air hose so I then ran the fuel hose over the clear tube and then to the petcock. This made a more gentle sweep of the fuel hose to the petcock. I then used a cable tie to secure the filter to the frame. This may not have been necessary but I didn't what it to compress the clear tube. The end result is an unrestricted and downhill trajectory of the fuel flow. The ultimate test will be getting her out on the road. I hope that will be late next week, weather permitting.
I failed miserably. First I had leaks at the petcock. Using different clamps fixed that. Now I have heavy fuel flow of the bottom of carb three. Man I hope I didn't break that "T" nipple. I can't imagine I did since nothing required much force. I was able to hold that nipple vertical with a long screwdriver while I coaxed the fuel hose on, lubed with some Sil-Glide. I'm pretty disgusted and dejected. I had to walk away from it. I'm now thinking about how I can create a temporary fuel supply so that I can try to identify the source of the leak with the tank off.
I use my tank on a table next to the bike with a long piece of fuel line when synchronizing . Petcock set on prime .
My problems are solved, I hope. I removed the tank this morning to start troubleshooting. It dawned on me that I had multiple leak points and the one that I solved required a worm clamp where I had used a spring clamp in the past. I dug through my trash bin to locate a piece of the old hose and compared it to the new hose. Sure enough, the auto parts store had charged me for 5/16 but had given me 3/8. I should have recognized that the hose was too big during assembly. Anyways, I went and got the right size hose then put her back together. No leaks on prime; she fired right up; idles and revs just fine. Now to finish my coolant system project. Flush and fill left to do (different discussion).