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Need a part

dmarcrum17516481

Guest
Guest
So I’m a new member and may be posting this in the wrong place. Had a problem with my C10. Thought it wasn’t going into gear. Turns out it was my rear wheel coupler. Teeth had sheared off. ( shout out to Chuck for working on it at this years rally). I have read that this part is common to several shaft driven Kawasaki models. Also, that the part will swap out with C14. Can anyone confirm this and does anyone have one they would want to part with? Thanks.
 
I met dmarcrum at the national and we all thought he had clutch problems.
ie; Clutch operated, but bike did not go..
I thought it was a star spring issue..

Turn out that the rear wheel coupler (drum that couples the rear differential to the wheel) was worn out.
I've heard of this happening, but never seen one.

So, lets help him out. Who has one that they'll sell?

Ride safe, Ted

Update; Found this. Might be a good option.

 
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I'm guessing you are talking about the final drive. C10's and C14's use different final drives. Both are very cheap. Post a wanted ad in the classified section. If no luck there, eBay should have many to choose from. Keep those teeth greased and they won't fail in the manner yours has. HTH
 
I have a 17” mean streak wheel that has been machined and has the rotor needed for the C10. let me know if you are interested, it would give you more options on rear tires.
 
I have a rear wheel that I pulled off my 2000 at 61k to do the M/S conversion. Always lubed at rear tire changes and looks to be in good shape. Don't need it so it's yours for the taking.
Best would be if you're near Western NC or want to meet somewhat close.
I can't imagine what shipping cost would be but always glad to help a brother out.
 

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The part identified is removable from the wheel
I call it 'sacrificial' as it is aluminum campared to the drive spline that is steel.
 
I agree, but couldn't find just that part on Ebay..

I think Crag antler has the best solution.
Helps a brother that is a very NEW MEMBER out!
Saaaaa-lute!!

Ride safe, Ted
 
Rear wheel and chain diagram on revzilla. Look for a complete wheel or get the one from Crag. That part is held in by a snap ring and mates to the rubber damper. He could just send you the drive coupling and not the whole wheel if it needs to be shipped. My spare wheel is without the drive so I can't help. Just did a ebay search for 42034-0002 several came up including a whole shaft, drive assy and coupling from a zg 1000. It is listed for several different bikes.

42034ACOUPLING, RR HUB
42034-0002
Supersedes 42034-1011
$219.0811234567891011121314151617181920
Available: Ships in 1-2 weeks
 
The center hub on the wheel with the spline teeth that mates up to the spline teeth on the final drive is held in place with a large retaining ring. Pinch the ends of the retaining ring together, remove the ring and the hub can be pulled straight out from the center of the wheel. The spline teeth are steel, on both parts, not aluminum. When you put this back together you need to give it a good coating of Moly Paste lubricant. I use a Moly Paste sold by Bel-Ray. Axel or bearing grease will NOT hold up. The spline teeth will get rounded over if you use a cheap lubricant.
 
Thought I had replied on these. I have found and ordered a wheel with the part I need. Should be here in a couple days. If not correct part, I’ll let y’all know. Thanks for the help. Thanks for the comments Ted. Ride safe.
 
I have a rear wheel that I pulled off my 2000 at 61k to do the M/S conversion. Always lubed at rear tire changes and looks to be in good shape. Don't need it so it's yours for the taking.
Best would be if you're near Western NC or want to meet somewhat close.
I can't imagine what shipping cost would be but always glad to help a brother out.
Cragantler, I would be interested in that part. The one I ordered might not be in good condition. You know how eBay is. I’ll let you know. Thanks.
 
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