• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Oil contaminated at 3200 miles.

tl47714900

2022 C14
Member
Checking if this is a common issue since I can’t find other mentions.
2022 Concours 14 I bought new 2-2023 with 1 mile on odometer. Never been in rain. Garage kept. 1st service at dealer at 550 miles. I changed the oil last week with 3200 miles on it and noticed the oil was not a consistent dark brown/black. Swirls of lighter brown. Made me nervous. Checked the coolant reservoir and it is just below the low mark. At least it is still under warranty.
Ps. I should be getting my ECU back from Steve this week. :-/
 
What oil are u using, synthetic or dino? and u changed it with only 2700 miles on it... ? Seems like u haven't even worked the motor for it to start getting dirty. If u had a head gasket leak it would be like a milk chocolate and u would be overheating and having other problems.
 
FWIW:

I changed the oil on my '12 at ~600mi then again at 3k. As-delivered and first change were dino and I've run Amsoil ever since. No oil issues either way.

What's in the coolant itself - any signs of contamination?
 
FWIW:

I changed the oil on my '12 at ~600mi then again at 3k. As-delivered and first change were dino and I've run Amsoil ever since. No oil issues either way.

What's in the coolant itself - any signs of contamination?
Coolant looks fine, just low. I had an ‘08 without this issue.
 
Could just be a function of the break-in oil. If it's like that next time you change it, then maybe it's something to worry about. Same with the rear bevel drive, its going look bad first time but it's just an additive they put in.
 
I have noticed that if I don't warm the engine up enough before I change oil on any of my vehicles, I will see what you are describing to various degree, whether it be my truck, utv, motorcycle, etc.

I figure it is due to combustion by products, water etc. that normally accumulates in the engine oil as time goes on.

So, I would not worry about it.
 
I have noticed that if I don't warm the engine up enough before I change oil on any of my vehicles, I will see what you are describing to various degree, whether it be my truck, utv, motorcycle, etc.

I figure it is due to combustion by products, water etc. that normally accumulates in the engine oil as time goes on.

So, I would not worry about it.
You would be correct, especially if the vehicle in question sees a lot of stop-and-go travel without coming to full operating temperature for a sustained period.
 
Appreciate the constructive replies about residual break-in oil. I am still concerned about the low coolant level but now will keep an eye on it. Thank you, you people!

Should I use full synth or Dino? :-/ JK!
 
As far as the coolant level. Tons of new vehicles i came across at the dealership were low off the truck. My thought process was the factory put in a specified amount and didn't burp the system and/or waited for the engine to fully warm up before they shipped em out. Just my thought on this..
 
Fully warm the machine, change the oil and see what it looks like next time.

Make certain to avoid short running / idling of the engine that can lead to condensation in the crankcase.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
I'm going with break in oil , BUT this is also a reminder that running an engine to cool is bad for the engine. Oil has to get up to about 230*F to clean the contaminants out of it. Keep that in mind next time you consider "fan temp" . This isn't the 1960's... and they were wrong then, too.
 
Top