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oil leak?

tlr-boise

Member
Member
Hi guys,

Took the C14 out from its parking space a few days ago and ran it, really just to put Star Tron in the tank.  As it was warming up, noticed wisps of smoke coming up from the area around the front fork and an odor, I think, of burning oil.  Looked at the area in the pic below, and one of the exhaust pipes, the one on the right, had a shiny coating on it.  The coating had mostly gone away by the time I took the picture, so the pic shows a dark/shiny area much smaller than it was.

I had noticed an odor of burning oil occasionally before, on some trips around the area, and would notice it at a stoplight, for the most part. 

Oil level is just below full, where it's been, and the exhaust pipe wasn't dripping oil or wet, at least when I first noticed it.  But most of the pipe you can see from that vantage point was shiny.

Any idea what is going on, besides, perhaps "it's an oil leak"?

 

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Most likely the CAM POSITION SENSOR O-RING is leaking.  Common problem and easily fixed.  MOB here on COG will sell you two slightly oversized o-rings for $1 + SASE.  It will not leak again.

May also be the valve cover gasket especially if a valve adjust was done without replacing the gasket, a bit harder to fix but not too bad.
 
Thanks guys.  Guess the only way to tell for sure is let it sit for a couple weeks, (like it has recently), start it up, and watch it.  Then take the skins off and see what's there.

I don't know what quickly-evaporating antifreeze smells like, compared to oil.  But, I'll look at all the hoses, in addition to the cam position sensor o-ring.

No valve adjusts have been done.  Only has 8172 miles on it.

Thanks!
 
Well, did some internet googling around for "Cam position sensor Kawasaki Concours 1400" and found a couple threads about this oil leak issue here at the COG Forum and a couple other places.  2008 bike and 2012 bike, back a few years ago.

Yep, a common problem.  One guy suggested the OEM O-ring was .010" too small in diameter, so replace it with a .622"ID x 0.094" cross sectional diameter o-ring.  Fatter o-ring works better, supposedly.

Other place it tends to leak is the valve cover gasket.  Theory is, due to heat frying the gasket.  Seems to leak within 20,000 miles, and seems to occur after the bike has been sitting awhile, on the left side, when the bike has been on it's side stand.  Like mine has.

So, it's off with the skins, next rainy day.

Thanks again.

 
TLR said:
Thanks guys.  Guess the only way to tell for sure is let it sit for a couple weeks, (like it has recently), start it up, and watch it.  Then take the skins off and see what's there.

I don't know what quickly-evaporating antifreeze smells like, compared to oil.  But, I'll look at all the hoses, in addition to the cam position sensor o-ring.

No valve adjusts have been done.  Only has 8172 miles on it.

Thanks!

Antifreeze doesn't burn like oil does, it evaporates and smells just like antifreeze.  So if the smell is like that it's a coolant leak.  My bet is on the cam position sensor o-ring.  Save yourself some time and get a couple from MOB (Man of Blues - PM him and he will give you instructions) and once you have the plastics off you can quickly fix it if this is the issue.  As I mentioned, it's a fairly common issue but one that is easily fixed.  If you take it to the dealer they will replace the seal with the OEM one which will continue leaking.  MOB's are slightly thicker and won't leak.
 
jwh20:  Roger that.  Even though haven't taken the skins off yet, sent MOB a PM yesterday.  He hasn't responded yet.

Thanks again!
 
TLR said:
jwh20:  Roger that.  Even though haven't taken the skins off yet, sent MOB a PM yesterday.  He hasn't responded yet.

Thanks again!

check your messeges....
:great: :great:

I just want to add, don't freak out about the drip, it only occurs after sitting, and is not a real issue as in " its spewing oil", its just a weepy seal, on non presurized oil, sitting against a small valley filled with oil... once the engine is hot and running, it isn't an issue, and does not leak further, its just "a drop or 2" and it isn't catastophic.

I actually put up with it for 2 years, prior to solving the problem, as an engineer I was being lazy, because even tho I know it was an issue, it wasn't anything to worry about.

the new o rings I picked fix the issue 100%, and I've sent out hundreds so far, I don't do it to make money, I do it because I know it works, and nobody needs to buy 100 rings at a time, to fix an annoying problem.

a buck, a stamped envelope with your address, is pretty easy for hundreds of people to fix the problem that Kaw created... I can't even find the ring they used in oem assembly available other than from them, at $7 a pop. and that ring will fail and leak from the get go again... no brainer.
:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :great: :great:
 
I would like to but a pair of those two rings....
MOB? Where do I send the envolpe?
MOB's been inactive for awhile. You can get the oversize O-ring from Murph at murphskits.com. If anyone knows the actual size of this o-ring you can likely get it at your local auto parts store for less. Anyone?
 
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I'm having this very same problem now. I'll wait until it's time to do the valves. I have Murphs valve kit and I think it already has these oversize o-rings included.
 
It's not just the exhaust cam position sensor O ring that leaks. The valve cover also has a tendency to leak at the left side of the engine. The design of the head is such that oil pools in the left side of the head against the gasket and O ring, and it will find any small imperfection in the gasket or O ring seal when left parked for long periods and leak out. In 2015 Kawasaki redesigned the head and provided a new drain back port on the left side of the head so that oil won't pool there anymore.

For this reason I always replace all rubber gaskets, O rings, and the rubber valve cover bolt seals whenever I do a valve adjustment. It's the only good way to reduce the leaks. If you have a leaker, you may have to remove the valve cover and put in all new gaskets.
 
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Hello everyone. Seems like I have similar issues with my 09 Connie. Can someone point me in the right direction where to find instructions on How to fix. I already bought the oversized O-ring from Murphs kits. Thanks!
 
Hello everyone. Seems like I have similar issues with my 09 Connie. Can someone point me in the right direction where to find instructions on How to fix. I already bought the oversized O-ring from Murphs kits. Thanks!
Get the '08-'09 Service Manual for reference purposes.

Pull the front lower fairing halves. Unbolt the top of the radiator if clearance is an issue (I did it with my '12) and swing it forward to gain access to the exhaust cam sensor. One 6mm bolt is removed, then the sensor comes out. Remove the old O ring from the sensor, replace with new. You may need a little grease on the new O ring to help it slide into the bore. Secure with 6mm bolt, re-attach radiator bolts then bodywork. Done.
 
Thenk
Get the '08-'09 Service Manual for reference purposes.

Pull the front lower fairing halves. Unbolt the top of the radiator if clearance is an issue (I did it with my '12) and swing it forward to gain access to the exhaust cam sensor. One 6mm bolt is removed, then the sensor comes out. Remove the old O ring from the sensor, replace with new. You may need a little grease on the new O ring to help it slide into the bore. Secure with 6mm bolt, re-attach radiator bolts then bodywork. Done.

Get the '08-'09 Service Manual for reference purposes.

Pull the front lower fairing halves. Unbolt the top of the radiator if clearance is an issue (I did it with my '12) and swing it forward to gain access to the exhaust cam sensor. One 6mm bolt is removed, then the sensor comes out. Remove the old O ring from the sensor, replace with new. You may need a little grease on the new O ring to help it slide into the bore. Secure with 6mm bolt, re-attach radiator bolts then bodywork. Done.
Thank you!
 
Hello everyone. Seems like I have similar issues with my 09 Connie. Can someone point me in the right direction where to find instructions on How to fix. I already bought the oversized O-ring from Murphs kits. Thanks!
Did you also get the valve check soft parts from Murph’s - while you were at it? If able this is a good time to complete the valve check, flush coolant, general maintenance.

Last check I suspect a while ago given the O-ring(most likely) or head cover gasket is leaking, near all replace this as part of the service and preempt the leak.

Shot you a PM.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Did you also get the valve check soft parts from Murph’s - while you were at it? If able this is a good time to complete the valve check, flush coolant, general maintenance.

Last check I suspect a while ago given the O-ring(most likely) or head cover gasket is leaking, near all replace this as part of the service and preempt the leak.

Shot you a PM.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Samco hoses on order, coolant getting taken care of, all fluids replaced, tires, brakes/rotors replaced because of warping and healtech QS getting put on.
She will be put together soon and I can enjoy a longer than my usual 300-400mile daily ride
 
That is one gasket that is super hard to reach. I suggest remove as much as you can. Its a good time to change your coolant. So why not remove your radiator it will make it a lot easier. It did for me. If you use your bike every day you may never notice the leak.
 
Antifreeze doesn't burn like oil does, it evaporates and smells just like antifreeze. So if the smell is like that it's a coolant leak. My bet is on the cam position sensor o-ring. Save yourself some time and get a couple from MOB (Man of Blues - PM him and he will give you instructions) and once you have the plastics off you can quickly fix it if this is the issue. As I mentioned, it's a fairly common issue but one that is easily fixed. If you take it to the dealer they will replace the seal with the OEM one which will continue leaking. MOB's are slightly thicker and won't leak.
He speaketh the truth... common source of many a c14 oil leaks...

U do not have to remove the radiator to get to it. Several threads on how to replace it..
 
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