Oil pan questions for 95 GPZ - same as C10

[Stasch]

This winter I am resolving a lot of small oil leaks on the 95 ZX1100E (GPZ) - the parts for which are identical to the C10 from what I can see.

Had seaping from the tranny plate, drain pan, balancer shaft seal, shift shaft seal, etc.

Oil pan is off.  Anybody know the size of the O-rings for the small oil pipe?  There are 3 of them and they want $3.13 each.  They're the ones marked '670A' on the: Oil Pipe Fiche

I'm looking at the large inner O-ring that goes between the crankcase and the oil pan and it looks identical to the O-rings that come with the oil filters.  Its a $6.71 part, more than an oil filter that includes one. 

The smaller O-rings in the oil filter kits also seem to match the main gallery oil pipe O-rings.  They're '670B' at 88 cents each.

Since I have leftover oil filter kits hanging around I'ld rather use them then buy unnecessary OEM gold lined O-rings.

Any reason why these oil filter O-rings shouldn't be used?  See pics - old is on the left, new is on the right.

This is the first time I've had this off.  Found some junk in the oil sump and in the screen's.  Good reminder to everyone to be careful when using silicone gasket sealer as is sometimes called for in the manuals.

 

[rev ryder]

They really do look the same, don't they?  I'm afraid I'd have to check em close, but would probably give them a go. 

 

[troidus]

The old ones lasted 16 years.  For $25, I think I'd go with OEM parts for peace of mind, rather than try something unknown and hope I don't starve a critical part for oil.  Connecting rods and engine blocks aren't cheap. 

 

[rev ryder]

The old ones lasted 16 years.  For $25, I think I'd go with OEM parts for peace of mind, rather than try something unknown and hope I don't starve a critical part for oil.  Connecting rods and engine blocks aren't cheap.

I gots plenty of 'em I'd let go fer cheeep.  :-\

 

[Stasch]

You know what Troidus, you make a lot of sense. 

You just stated the obvious and that's just what I'm going to do. 

The whole parts order is $95 for gaskets, seals and sundries, so a few extra bucks is worth the piece of mind.

Thanks for weighing in.

 

[EddieM]

The old ones lasted 16 years.  For $25, I think I'd go with OEM parts for peace of mind, rather than try something unknown and hope I don't starve a critical part for oil.  Connecting rods and engine blocks aren't cheap.

I gots plenty of 'em I'd let go fer cheeep.  :-\

Chuck, can't you just put those in a vise and squeeze them back straight?

Eddie

 

[rwulf]

Stan How's that ugly crack coming ??? Right idea spend the big bucks and get it right the first time. Keep the garage warm while working.
rwulf

 

[rev ryder]

Chuck, can't you just put those in a vise and squeeze them back straight?

Eddie

Well, I don't have a vice... well not a vice vice, I have plenty of vices, but...

However, I've done wore out two dead blow hammers and a cinderblock on em and they is all still crooked.  :truce:

 

[troidus]

Well, I don't have a vice... well not a vice vice, I have plenty of vices, but...

However, I've done wore out two dead blow hammers and a cinderblock on em and they is all still crooked.  :truce:

You need to make a hydraulic rod straightener.  Mill two precision-fit cylinders, one for each end, long enough to permit attachment of fixtures to the ends of the cylinders.  Affix the cylinder through the big end to an immovable object, but in such a way that it can pivot about its axial centerline, and attach three articulating hydraulic rams to each end of the cylinder through the small end.  Then, using a laser-guided alignment system, apply pressure to the six rams in such a way as to remove any twist, skew, or offset while pulling the rod back to its original length.  Or melt it down and forge a new one. 

 

[rev ryder]

Well, I don't have a vice... well not a vice vice, I have plenty of vices, but...

However, I've done wore out two dead blow hammers and a cinderblock on em and they is all still crooked.  :truce:

You need to make a hydraulic rod straightener.  Mill two precision-fit cylinders, one for each end, long enough to permit attachment of fixtures to the ends of the cylinders.  Affix the cylinder through the big end to an immovable object, but in such a way that it can pivot about its axial centerline, and attach three articulating hydraulic rams to each end of the cylinder through the small end.  Then, using a laser-guided alignment system, apply pressure to the six rams in such a way as to remove any twist, skew, or offset while pulling the rod back to its original length.  Or melt it down and forge a new one.

PHEW!
It's easier to just call Stevie and beg for more straight ones (always worked before).  I reckon I could cut em in half and JB Weld em back sorta straight.  :-\

EDIT TO ADD:
But if I foller yer line o thought here, I could jez clamp one end to the neighbor's fence and use a tow rope and my John Deere tractor on the other to pull em back in line.  Hmmm!  Thas easier than callin' Stevie.  I'll be back.

EDIT TO ADD MORE: 
THe only laser I gots is on my GLock.  WEll, I have one on my level, but the battery's dead on that un.  I'm hoping this's gonna be sufficient.  I'll be back.

 

[troidus]

EDIT TO ADD:
But if I foller yer line o thought here, I could jez clamp one end to the neighbor's fence and use a tow rope and my John Deere tractor on the other to pull em back in line.  Hmmm!  Thas easier than callin' Stevie.  I'll be back.

My original thought involved tying the rod between the turbo bike and Shoodabeen and pulling like mad, but that lacks precision. 

I did once try to pull out a bent rear bumper mount on a unibody car by hooking a strap from it to a utility pole and pulling, but all that did was burn the clutch on the car. 

 

[rev ryder]

Hmmmm.  I think the Shoodaben idea woulda been a better choice.  I'll write more after the police and the ambulance leave.  I thought surely them vice grips wuz tougher n that.

 

[connie_rider]

EDIT TO ADD:
But if I foller yer line o thought here, I could jez clamp one end to the neighbor's fence and use a tow rope and my John Deere tractor on the other to pull em back in line.  Hmmm!  Thas easier than callin' Stevie.  I'll be back.


Hey Rev, I heard an ugly rumor;
that some guy,,,,, pulled his neighbors fence out of the ground with a tractor, and then blamed it on a guy he "talked to" on the COG Forum...
Wuz that you???

Ride safe, Ted

 

[rev ryder]

We got the fnece put back. That weren't nuttin'.  But that vice grip poppin' loose sent that rod through the wall of my house and clocked my wife in the haid.  She got outta the hospital yesterday and they say I prolly won't lose my eye and that eventually the effects of my concussion shouldn't even be noticeable noticeable noticeable.  Man! When that woman gets mad she's stronger than John Deere ever dreamt.  BTW, that rod is now straight, but it's got grip marks in it from when she clobbered me.

 

[willyp]

Think that woulda worked on my Buick?:

 

[rev ryder]

It mighta made the pic small enough to see.  :nananana:


Course my vision hasn't hasn't hasn't hasn't quite cleared up up up yet.

 

[willyp]

Fixed it, just for you Rev.
BTW, you can always right click and choose view image to see it sized for your browser, but you are right it was too big.

 

[connie_rider]

Willy, how the heck did you do that?
Back into a fence post at about 90??  )

Ride safe, Ted

 

[willyp]

Ya something like that. I had the speedometer buried and lost control as I went over a rise in the road, the car swapped ends so quick I couldn't do anything about it and it came to rest wrapped around a motel sign post.

 

[Tim R]

I don't think I would admit to ever having a car with that shade of green.  >

 

[willyp]

It wasn't green it was gold. With a white and black interior.