• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Petcock question

Ahcoraj

Member
Member
Hey everybody I read enough of these forms to be absolutely terrified of hydrolock. It's my goal to get my 03 back running again so that I can bring it to my garage and take the carbs off to send them down to Steve for the Overflow tubes. Until then, I recently had to do some clutch work so I removed the tank. I drained it of all the gas which had been in there for over a year. The fuel looks good I don't see any rest. But I'm going to recycle the old gas and put brand new fuel in it. I just took some pictures of the petcock filter. It looks good to me but I wanted to see if anyone here sees anything that I should be concerned about. Thanks in advance.20221112_182227.jpg20221112_182245.jpg
 
First of all how old is the petcock. And just because it looks good does not mean it is good. They can fail without a moments notice. Mine has overflow tubes and a new petcock from Murph. That is how I chose to go. I also have a 90 degree inline extra fuel filter under the tank, a must. Lot of ways to go but you will half to decide what is best for you.
One thing for sure you will half to wash the tank out, this is a must also. Mine is a 2000 model. The amount of trash, sand, dirt, And grime that came out of the tank was terrible it all settles in the back bottom of the tank. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Didn't Steve fit overflow tubes? He usually does.

My fix is in reply 7


still working perfectly in both bikes,

updated ebay number: 165607699523
 
It's an 03, I've owned it since 07 and 2500 miles. Has 43k now. It's all stock as far as I know. Freddy, the ebay number didn't work for me, would you please check it? The bike has been in storage for 2 years. The clutch failed (slave cylinder rebuild and new SS line). I need to bring it to my house to pull the carbs and send them to SISF, that and new fork seals are my winter project (I'm in PA.) The fuel I got out was normal, no signs of water or crud. I was fanatic about storing it full of fuel and using Startron. I just figured someone might be able to tell me if the petcock looks "normal" since I've never seen one before.
Dean I'm interested in your filter, do you have a part number?

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
I now see that the carbs WILL go to Steve. He fits overflow tubes to prevent h/lock.

That number is correct but it's in UK so select Worldwide for the search.

The petcock does look normal.

A common experience with under tank filter is that restriction starves fuel when fuel level is low and engine will splutter badly. Steve says in that thread that a similar problem was experienced with a solenoid valve years ago, but the one linked to is obviously better and no such fuel starvation has ever been experienced.
 
just to reduce the risk of HL, not only SISF's bowl tubes, but I used Murph's manual petcock that I can turn to off a few blocks from the house and reduce the fuel pressure on the needle and seat in the carb bowls. a year ago I came out of work to a puddle of gas under the C10. SISF overflow tubes saved me from a HL, but that also meant that the petcock had failed too. That's when I went to Murph's manual petcock valve. As Freddy mentioned your petcock does indeed look normal. SISF also had a suggestion to use some TC3W oil added to the gas to reduce the gummyness in the carbs when the ethanol evaporates out.
-tdbru
 
Fuel Filter / Microgard # 33006 bought at O'reilly's auto parts.
On one end is a straight & the other end is a 90 degree. The 90 goes to the carb side.
It needs to be cut to were the 90 faces straight down to the carbs. It will sit under the round part of the top of the frame nice & pretty. Use the cut off line to fit to the petcock. Make sure no kinks in fuel line really important. Do not use hose clamps. Use the round spring loaded clamps.
( Do not )re-use that fuel valve. You will be asking for trouble.
Wash the tank out also. Again if you don't you will be asking for a lot of trouble. Sand, Rust, Grime, Dirt, will ruin your newly done carbs.
You will be surprised at what will come out of that tank.

Dean
 
Last edited:
Even going with our manual conversion, I've started recommending installing the petcock rebuild kit as well...these things are getting old ya know šŸ˜
 
I have heard that worm gear clamps don't apply pressure equally do to the non-flexable section of the clamp. It can cause a crimp in the hose and leak. Round spring clamps apply pressure all the way around the hose.

I personally use automatic petcocks on all of my bikes. They have been used for a long time and are 1 less thing to remember to do at the beginning and end of each ride. A buddy of mine stopped halfway through an intersection 1/2 miles from home. He had forgotten to turn his manual petcock back on. Leave it on for that quick trip into the store and it is the same effect as a failed auto one.
 
Lots of good, time proven advice in the library. Best benefit of membership a C-10 owner can get.
 
Top