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Re: What did You Do to your C-10 Today?

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Modifying the Unigo hitch to work with my Delkevic pipes continues, but like many projects of this type where fab work is required, they don’t always move as fast as you’d like.

Got the basic frame and mounts for the hitch welded up. Amazing that it’s basically straight. Fab’d the down supports and mounts today and tack welded them in place. We’re happy. Need to transfer the existing hole pattern in the rear pad to the chunk of metal the ball is now mounted on, drill clearance holes, then bend it up approx. 90 deg. so it can be mounted to the rear pad. Will have to re-weld the pad to the frame first because I partially cut it loose so it could be tweaked back into a vertical position. The basic configuration of the hitch changed drastically and the pad just wasn’t useable as a result.

Finish/clean up the welds, hit it with an aggressive bead blasting, then give it a coat of paint. Like to think it’ll be done before the end of the week.


IMG_6634-X2.jpg


IMG_6636-X2.jpg


IMG_6643-X2.jpg


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PARTING SHOTS:

Overall, it took almost a year, but finally done.........

IMG_6698-XL.jpg


IMG_6687-XL.jpg


IMG_6773-XL.jpg


Off to get another load of groceries:
IMG_6806-XL.jpg
 
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croach1776

Member
Member
It has been raining for about two weeks in Texas so really not a damn thing. I am planning on installing fairing extenders and back rest when I stop being depressed about the weather.
 

samuel.p.mars6359

Member
Member
Actually made these last night but still want to show them off.

I’d love to make a throttlemeister style throttle lock but not sure exactly how I’d do it.
 

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gbyoung2

Member
Member
The bike has had a crappy idle issue for quite awhi;e, and it got really bad a day or so ago, so decided to pull the carbs and give them a thorough cleaning. Nothing was really evident, but while they were off I replaced the Dynojet slides with sdjustable needles from my '86 I installed a couple of years ago. Went back to the OEM slides/needles. All the jets were "standard issue,' so left them alone..... other than pulling a thoroughly cleaning after soaking the carbs and blowing all the passages with carb cleaner and compressed air. Set the mixture valves at 2-1/2 turns out.

Pulled the plugs and bead blasted them. Also decided to reinstall the COP arrangement that a fella gave me a couple of years ago. I tried them then, but my Audiovox cruise stopped working. Tried a couple of things to try and remedy the issue, back then, but nothing worked so took the COP setup off and went back to the OEM coils. Figured my long distance riding days are over, so put the COP stuff back on. Also didn't feel like fooling with the throttle cable noose for the cruise that's such a PITA to install and usually result in a rise of my BP reading in the process. A kind soul sent me the rear wheel mag pick up sensor I couldn't find here, so one day whn the weather is really crappy, I may try and get the noose back on the card pull cable and see if I can get the cruise working again with the COP arrangement.

Idle was 95% better, as was a smoother acceleration, so basically happy with the carb work, but think I'll probably tweak the mixture screws out that extra 1/2 turn I put in when they were off. Fortunately, I have a couple of those long-reach 90 deg. screwdrivers so I can access them "fairly" easily.

Decided to make one finaly check since I was in the mood, so pulled the valve cover to check the valves. I usually haven't done this, this soon (~6400 miles). Normal checks were always in the 30,000-40,000 mile range, and that's what they mostly were - checks; no adjustments needed. I set them at the upper limit, and only found one cylinder (#4) whose exhaust valves had loosen up to a slack 0.010" gap. All the other intake and exhaust were still at their respective .007" and .009" settings.

Cover back on, mixture screws back in that 1/2 turn. Those little tweaks seemed to make things better. The louder Delkevic pipes tend to let you hear every little burp and bobble the engine might produce, so some of my "issue" may have had me tilting at windmills to try and achieve perfection.

Stuck the plastic stuck back on and we'll get the bike out on the road a little later if the rains holds off..
 

Merle Lowe

Member
Member
Yesterday I attached one of those windshield winglets, fairing extenders and the peg lowering kit to my '95. Tested the changes out with a 150 mile ride around the northwest corner of Georgia.

The windshield wing really cleaned up airflow. So much that I was worried about an increase of engine noise. Figured out fairly quickly that it was just that there was just a lot less wind noise. The pegs should work out well... I was too lazy to readjust the brake and shift levers, but apart from that it was an improvement. I didn't notice a dramatic change with the fairing extenders yet, but we'll see once it rains. I bet they'll show their worth then.

I think the only thing left on my list is a preemptive strike on the J-box before it fails. I'll wait till I get my newly-acquired Road King up and running, then send it to Larry Buck.
 

Merle Lowe

Member
Member
Have to ponder the recently-added peg lowering brackets. Both sides touched down on my ride home today. Haven't felt that in a while.
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Tired of the anemic horns on my ’95, I finally found a set of loud (130db) on Amazon that looked like they might fit. Been this route before with a Wolo Big Boy (air horn) I picked up at HF, but couldn’t find a suitable spot to mount the thing. I had put one on my KLR and it’s certainly loud enough, so I was hoping I could fit one on the Connie. No such luck.

Next attempt was a set of air horns that had separate trumpets. Got the compressor mounted, but had to cut the trumpet lengths down a little so I could shoehorn them into a spot I thought would work. Unfortunately, cutting the trumpet lengths down destroyed its design and that made them worse than the OEM ones I was trying to replace.

The ones I just got from Amazon had a Seineca brand name (made in China – natch!) looked promising, even tho’ they were just slightly larger than the OEM versions. After pulling the fairing apart so I could access the horns, I mounted them on the OEM bracket and bolted it up in the stock location. Unfortunately, they were just a touch too big and interfered with getting the main fairing back in place. Rats.

Came this far (again), and I was determined that I could make them work. After pulling them off the bracket, I finally figured that if I laid them down at an angle, there was hope. They came with thin spring steel mounting pieces (to allow good internal vibration), so I only put one on each horn, and tweaked their shape. Doing that allowed me to drill a couple of holes in the black plastic shield that protected the back of the instrument cluster (and headlamp) so I could bolt them in place, one on each side. The fairing went back in place with no interference and/or contact. The existing wiring worked perfectly so I didn’t bother to add in an interposing relay to provide a (more) healthy fused 12v from the battery, because they were certainly loud enough as is. In addition, the load is intermittent so I’m not concerned.

In my haste I didn’t take any in-process pix because I didn’t want to pull the fairing back off (again) to do so (my apologies). I did take a couple once the fairing was back on, and you can see them through the grill.

Finally! After 22 years I actually have a set of horns you can hear. Pretty pathetic, huh?

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amazon%20ad-M.jpg

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connie_rider

Member
Member
Well done.
I wasn't able to find loud that fit in the original position, so I went another route.
Was a PITA. I think your method the best.

Ride safe, Ted
 

Mercer

Member
Member
I applaud your tenacity and successful efforts!

I did similar to mount some Bosch horns from a German luxury car. The horns were a little bigger but a lot louder.

Lots of measuring, modifying and fitting as space was so very tight. Photographed all.

Got er done! The test sounded great! Till I had to refit dash cluster on the 87 that is.

For all my best efforts and fab work. After I seemingly lacked a quarter inch or so of bringing instrument cluster to original position.
Spacer placed underneath mount tabs worked but then cluster interfered with steerage!

Had to abandon project and return to stock.

Yes well done sir! Few will know how truly difficult was your task..............
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Future project coming up – replace the fuel level meter in the instrument cluster.

Just noticed that the one on the bike started to read really erratic. Reads full, reads half, reads something less than half, depending on the attitude of the bike when stationary, or under way….. all this with a slightly less than ½ full tank. This just started for no apparent reason. Not sure of the actual cause, but I found a NOS gauge on eBay for a really good price, so figured I’d better scarf it up while it was still available. It’s on the way and we’ll swap it out once it arrives. If that’s not the issue, and it’s the actual sending unit, we’ll deal with that if I can find one at a reasonable price.

Secondary reason/excuse to pull the cluster – swap out the colored plastic inserts for the turn signal/emergency flasher indicators. My original instrument cluster’s speedometer faceplate was really faded in the upper quadrant due to a bulb I stuck in there. It apparently had too high a wattage and the plate couldn’t handle the added heat. I found a replacement cluster a local was selling that was really clean and reasonably priced, so went ahead and picked it up. The replacement cluster only had 35K, or something on the odometer, but since my bike was close to flipping over 200K, I wanted to have the correct, indicated mileage on the display. I sent it out to Palo Alto Speedometer Repair to have them advance the mileage. I looked at doing it myself, but the mechanism wouldn’t allow simple rotating the wheels, so I backed off not wanting to damage anything. The remote effort was a little pricey, but they got the job done in pretty short order. Once back, the cluster was swapped out and I was a happy camper.

Almost.

My original cluster had amber turn signal indicators, the ones in the replacement were green. I didn’t think that would make any difference, but they do – at least for my eyes. I find that the greens don’t stick out in the daylight as well as the ambers did, and I find myself going along fat dumb and happy after making a turn leaving the turn signals on doing their thing. NOT a safe thing to do if a cage mis-reads your intentions.

I dragged out my old cluster to see how hard it was going to be to swap out the fuel gauge, but to also see how hard it was going to be to swap out the indicator lens. Fortunately, it looks to be pretty easy for both. The three connection screws on the back of the cluster housing secure the gauge. Remove them and the gauge lifts right out. The lens are held in place by thin metal caps. Slip them off, remove their respective bulb sockets and poke through the hole with a pencil (eraser end) to dislodge the lens. Fit the replacement in position and replace the caps. Done.

I’ll shoot some pix for this adventure.

Honest.

Old cluster escutcheon/cover removed:
Img_0106-L.jpg
 

l.doyle5597

Member
Member
PARTING SHOTS:

Overall, it took almost a year, but finally done.........

IMG_6698-XL.jpg


IMG_6687-XL.jpg


IMG_6773-XL.jpg


Off to get another load of groceries:
IMG_6806-XL.jpg
Can you tell me where you purchased your exhaust hangers? I'm working on adding some harley sportster slip-ons and would like to use a similar hanger. Thanks
 

bowtie39

Member
Member
Can you tell me where you purchased your exhaust hangers? I'm working on adding some harley sportster slip-ons and would like to use a similar hanger. Thanks
Those hangers look like the ones that come with the Delkevic exhaust. Might be able to go to their website and access them???
 

Cra-z1000

Member
Member
Those hangers look like the ones that come with the Delkevic exhaust. Might be able to go to their website and access them???

If you
Can you tell me where you purchased your exhaust hangers? I'm working on adding some harley sportster slip-ons and would like to use a similar hanger. Thanks
If you find that those Harley slip ons are not what you were looking for research Bafflectomy here . You may get better performance from that than the slipons .
 

brunoderbrummel430

Member
Member
Added tcw 3 to the tank and did a last ride around town before spring. Love the Connie. Filled up the tank and putted on Center stand in the Garage.
561 kilometers this year ...
2 of my best friends died. 59 years old ...
Next year will be better, I hope
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Future project coming up – replace the fuel level meter in the instrument cluster.

Just noticed that the one on the bike started to read really erratic. Reads full, reads half, reads something less than half, depending on the attitude of the bike when stationary, or under way….. all this with a slightly less than ½ full tank. This just started for no apparent reason. Not sure of the actual cause, but I found a NOS gauge on eBay for a really good price, so figured I’d better scarf it up while it was still available. It’s on the way and we’ll swap it out once it arrives. If that’s not the issue, and it’s the actual sending unit, we’ll deal with that if I can find one at a reasonable price.

Secondary reason/excuse to pull the cluster – swap out the colored plastic inserts for the turn signal/emergency flasher indicators. My original instrument cluster’s speedometer faceplate was really faded in the upper quadrant due to a bulb I stuck in there. It apparently had too high a wattage and the plate couldn’t handle the added heat. I found a replacement cluster a local was selling that was really clean and reasonably priced, so went ahead and picked it up. The replacement cluster only had 35K, or something on the odometer, but since my bike was close to flipping over 200K, I wanted to have the correct, indicated mileage on the display. I sent it out to Palo Alto Speedometer Repair to have them advance the mileage. I looked at doing it myself, but the mechanism wouldn’t allow simple rotating the wheels, so I backed off not wanting to damage anything. The remote effort was a little pricey, but they got the job done in pretty short order. Once back, the cluster was swapped out and I was a happy camper.

Almost.

My original cluster had amber turn signal indicators, the ones in the replacement were green. I didn’t think that would make any difference, but they do – at least for my eyes. I find that the greens don’t stick out in the daylight as well as the ambers did, and I find myself going along fat dumb and happy after making a turn leaving the turn signals on doing their thing. NOT a safe thing to do if a cage mis-reads your intentions.

I dragged out my old cluster to see how hard it was going to be to swap out the fuel gauge, but to also see how hard it was going to be to swap out the indicator lens. Fortunately, it looks to be pretty easy for both. The three connection screws on the back of the cluster housing secure the gauge. Remove them and the gauge lifts right out. The lens are held in place by thin metal caps. Slip them off, remove their respective bulb sockets and poke through the hole with a pencil (eraser end) to dislodge the lens. Fit the replacement in position and replace the caps. Done.

I’ll shoot some pix for this adventure.

Honest.

Old cluster escutcheon/cover removed:
Img_0106-L.jpg

The replacement fuel gauge came in the other day, so decided to do the deed. Accessing the cluster requires you to remove the left and right inner panels, the winshield, disconnecting the clock leads so the instrument shroud can be pulled, unplugging two connectors that provide power/signals to the cluster, removing two bolts, and finally, disconnecting the speedo cable.

The instrument's cover can be removed by unscrewing the reset knob CCW, removing the metal mounting bracket on the rear, and 4 (four) screws that hold the cover in place. As mentioned above, three screws hold the gauge in the housing. Remove them and the gauge falls right out.

The turn signal lens can be swapped out by slipping off their respective covers, popping out their bulbs from the back, then, using a pencil (eraser end) to dislodge the lens. Snap the replacement (amber) lens in place, replace the covers, pop the bulbs back in place, and you're ready to put stuff back together.

The series of pictures seen HERE show the basic sequence.

Unfortunately, the pictures don't really convey the difference in lamp brilliance between the green and amber lens. I took the bike out to run a couple errands after I was done, and the difference is amazing; definitely well worth the effort.
 
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gbyoung2

Member
Member
Did this change fuel monitoring? Was the problem resolved with this replacement? Thanks for posting all.
It did. The gauge is now as steady as a rock. I had about ¼ tank when I first installed the gauge; steady reading on a quick test run yesterday. Topped it up to close to full after I got back, then took the bike out again today to pick up a load of groceries. Still steady and pretty close to the actual fuel level now in the tank. If I get motivated, I may drop the fuel level down in a catch can with the petcock in the MAIN position using my MityVac until fuel flow stops. Using a 10-turn shunting resistor across the sending unit leads, I can tweak the gauge so it reads as the needle is about to enter the gauge’s red level. That’s anal, but may do it just for grins.

Another re-visited happy moment was the brilliance of the amber turn signal indicators. The green ones look nice after dark, or in dim lighted environs, but the ambers are so much more vibrant during the day light hours and much easier to see.
 

Mercer

Member
Member
Good deal! Yeah, I like the resistor tuned to run out at the red, too. Keeps out of the surprise mode, and better timing my refills..........
 

Strawboss

Member
Member
Sadly, because it might snow this weekend which means TONS AND TONS of salt and brine will be placed on the roads:(, I put the bike away till next Spring.
 

Merle Lowe

Member
Member
Today I did some air pressure testing. I have Shinko 011s on my 95. Yesterday I checked the tires and they were about at 39 PSI. Rode a bit. Today I aired them up to 43 and went for another short ride. I could be imagining it, but it felt a bit easier at low speeds and a bit more on-center rolling along. Also more neutral with steering. In sum, it made the bike a bit better behaved. Would think additional pressure would make it "livelier" but more the opposite.

Need to try again but back-to-back to see if it's repeatable.
 

Merle Lowe

Member
Member
The center wore through the rear Shinko 011. My new Michelin Commander 2 showed up at Cycle Gear yesterday so I pulled the back wheel and got the new tire mounted. Added a right-angle valve stem.

Pulled the final drive and popped in a new o-ring. Cleaned off all of the splines and gave them a good coating of greasy grey stuff. Splines all look good without undue wear. Freshened up the lube in the final drive and took a moment to squirt some grease into the rear suspension links.

The Commander 2 seems ok with a short 15 mile test ride. Should last a good bit longer than the Shinko.
 

bobct

Member
Member
Had a new PR5GT sitting around from when I bought the (rebated michelin) set over the summer mounted on the 17" front rim, installed it Saturday.
What a wet, warmer than usual New Years week we had.
Yesterday late afternoon the roads dried up enough to take a ride and fill up the tank with fresh gas, laden with Stabil and a couple ounces of Synthetic 2
stroke oil for the ever possible long winters nap.
Looked at the odometer on the way to the filling station and 38 miles to turn it over to 70k.
It was near 50F with that midwest cold front approaching so I took off and had some fun until the sun went down and headed home.
PR5GT.jpg
70K.jpg
70K.jpg
 

Strawboss

Member
Member
I reached over it to grab the snow shovel and broom. Only 5 inches of snow for all of December, which is weird, but probably 10 inches of salt if it was possible to gather it and measure it.:(
 

Merle Lowe

Member
Member
Unstuck the sidestand switch so I could go for a ride. Going to have to address that before it gives up entirely.
 

bobct

Member
Member
Yup about 10" of snow Friday. Now the salt and whatever else they put down keeps me off the road till we get a couple of good rains to get it off the road.
Yes, what Dan said, WD40 under the switch boot with the red straw cleans up that switch, I never hear of them going bad just stuck.
 

Merle Lowe

Member
Member
Switch boot was pretty hard and has some cracks. I pulled it off. WIll have to come up with some type of replacement.
 

greenie

Member
Member
I trailered my C-10 through winter storm Garrett ... or was it winter storm Hatcher? Got the bike totally covered in salt spray, road grime, and ice. Turned all three disks the highly desirable gold tint.
 

gbyoung2

Member
Member
Switch boot was pretty hard and has some cracks. I pulled it off. WIll have to come up with some type of replacement.

If you're thinking of removing the switch for repair or replacement, recommend you pick up one of these. It'll keep you from removing a bunch of other stuff to gain access to the mounting screws.

offset%20screwdrivers-L.jpg
 

ONOBob

Member
Member
Mounted my Zumo XT.
I wanted it “up” in my field of view.
Madstad base facilitated that pretty well.
Power connection tomorrow.

If I recall correctly there is a switched line line in the dash???
 

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gbyoung2

Member
Member
Mounted my Zumo XT.
I wanted it “up” in my field of view.
Madstad base facilitated that pretty well.
Power connection tomorrow.

If I recall correctly there is a switched line line in the dash???

There would be for the instrument lights. There may be others, but I don't have the bike's schematic handy at the moment.
 

croach1776

Member
Member
This is usually a fun running post on most automotive boards, sorry if there is already one here.
I did do a search and came up empty.
Ok here we go, since my bike is multiple colors needing body work paint and I am currently not able to ride it because I am waiting for a new cooling fan. I have decided since I have to remove all the body panels in order to replace the cooling fan anyway I will start on the body work and panel repair while they are all off. I have cut my riding season short in order to Do complete maintenance and a repaint. I plan on adjusting the valves, possibly removing the carburetors and sending them off to Steve oh and of course replacing that cooling fan that started screaming at me the other day. To complete the project I ordered a complete Hardware kit from Murph as well as caliper rebuild kits, fairing extenders and a new windscreen.
Seems like missing during idle. Dies when choke is turned off. Have remove tank and ignition coils. Will check plugs and coils. Need to find instructions on how to test coils. Also need to check kill switch on kick stands. One of the mounting bolts was lose on a coil and one of the plug wires was lose where it was connected to coil. Plug connector was bright and shinny. Haven't seen any corrosion anywhere.
 
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