The front tire is a new Michelin pilot rood 4 gt radial. The rear tire is a Dunlop 150 80 16 R and it needs to be replaced. I can get a shanko, Dunlop or avon rear tire. I am thinking the avon? I read the service manual and the tech pages on rear wheel removal but the service manual says to remove the final gear case the tech pages don't? The tech pages say to remove both mufflers the service manual dose not? I don't know how to remove the rear wheel but I think I could figure it out by just taking things apart?
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Rear tire worn beyond limits?
- Thread starter Theiceman
- Start date
mkdnreed@aol.com
Training Wheels
Ice Man,
The first thing I do when removing the rear wheel is to get the bike raised up by putting the center stand onto a couple of pieces of wood (I made myself a little wooden box) to raise the rear wheel a few inches higher in order to get the tire out from under the rear fender. I only remove the right side muffler, and the luggage on both sides for easier access to the axle. Then I remove the caliper and support it with a bungee cord to keep any strain off the connections. There is a 27mm castle nut with a cotter pin that has to be removed. It is not very hard to figure out once you look at it. Where are you located in the southwest? If you are in the Denver area, I have a NoMar tire changer and could assist you.
Mike Reed
The first thing I do when removing the rear wheel is to get the bike raised up by putting the center stand onto a couple of pieces of wood (I made myself a little wooden box) to raise the rear wheel a few inches higher in order to get the tire out from under the rear fender. I only remove the right side muffler, and the luggage on both sides for easier access to the axle. Then I remove the caliper and support it with a bungee cord to keep any strain off the connections. There is a 27mm castle nut with a cotter pin that has to be removed. It is not very hard to figure out once you look at it. Where are you located in the southwest? If you are in the Denver area, I have a NoMar tire changer and could assist you.
Mike Reed
mkdnreed@aol.com
Training Wheels
Ice Man,
The axle slides out to the left, the nut that has to be removed is on the right side. You can remove both mufflers if you want to get the axle out easier (the mufflers are very easy to remove).
The axle slides out to the left, the nut that has to be removed is on the right side. You can remove both mufflers if you want to get the axle out easier (the mufflers are very easy to remove).
Remove both exhaust cans as they are easy to remove and it makes it easier to work on.
The easiest way I know is to remove the 4 nuts that hold the final drive on.
Now you can roll the tire and final drive unit out from the bike as one unit. Install the same say way as one unit.
Because you do it this way you will not have to raise the bike any higher than the center stand by itself. The fender will no longer be in your way. Just keep the final drive upright or oil will come out
Also I think your supposed to look and check and lube the spline and check / replace the small O ring seal that is located at that drive shaft location so you should be removing the final drive anyway. Dont forget to lube the wheel to final drive mating teeth with the proper >60% moly such as Honda Moly 60.
Regular grease that says Moly is not the correct grease.
The easiest way I know is to remove the 4 nuts that hold the final drive on.
Now you can roll the tire and final drive unit out from the bike as one unit. Install the same say way as one unit.
Because you do it this way you will not have to raise the bike any higher than the center stand by itself. The fender will no longer be in your way. Just keep the final drive upright or oil will come out
Also I think your supposed to look and check and lube the spline and check / replace the small O ring seal that is located at that drive shaft location so you should be removing the final drive anyway. Dont forget to lube the wheel to final drive mating teeth with the proper >60% moly such as Honda Moly 60.
Regular grease that says Moly is not the correct grease.
When I use the method of removing the entire final drive for service, on re-assembly I always final tighten the four bolts holding the final drive to the swingarm after I tighten the axle bolt. I think that lets the axle find its happy alignment. The drive mounting bolts have more room to move around in their holes. I don't think there's any "science" to support that, but that's what I do with all my shafties.
I am going with the rear shinko 150/80 16 rh 77 ? I think there are two ways of memoving the rear wheel? You can remove the final gear case or remove the rear wheel without remaining the final gear case? Question would it be a good idea to build a hoist and hang the bike from the hoist to make this easy too do?