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Recommendations for when is perfect time for oil change for Concours 14

M

mudumbas220

Guest
Guest
Hi, this is my first Concours 14. It is a 2012 model. Can someone suggest me when is the best time to change all the oils.
I am getting mixed information from our Google friend. 3000 miles if it is normal oil or 7000 miles if it is synthetic.
I am guessing if the oil is low I would get a warning light.
Are there any other fluids that I need to look out for.
Thank you in advance.
 
Don't use the warning light as a oil level indicator, visually check it.
If the light comes on it means very low or no oil pressure, which will cause major damage in seconds.
When the engine is running, if the oil light comes on, shut it off immediately
That 3000 and 7000 mark, works for me.
Nick
2014 C-14
 
mudumbas220 said:
Hi, this is my first Concours 14. It is a 2012 model. Can someone suggest me when is the best time to change all the oils.
I am getting mixed information from our Google friend. 3000 miles if it is normal oil or 7000 miles if it is synthetic.
I am guessing if the oil is low I would get a warning light.
Are there any other fluids that I need to look out for.
Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, I agree with Ted that you DO NOT want to wait for the light to come on. If you wait until then it'll be time for a trailer ride.

You'll want to put the bike up on the center stand so you can get a good visual on the oil level glass (throttle side, lower case). Every 3k miles seems to be the outside limit for JASO MA2 conventional, with some folks changing earlier than that. I'm not using synthetics so I cannot answer with certainty on that.

You'll for sure want to get ahold of the 2012 owner's manual as it'll have all the mileage maintenance items listed. Keep an eye on your coolant (clutch side, mid-way down the center fairing where your knee normally lines up when riding). Also, take a peek under your seat at the rear brake fluid reservoir since it isn't visible daily like the two on top of the handlebars.

Not sure if you've got a full service history on it, but if I were buying a used machine like this with shaft drive I'd just go ahead and change the final drive fluid at my next oil change. Only takes a few minutes and costs next to nothing, but can potentially save you from an unexpected bummer when you least expect it.

Take any slack out of your throttle cable (leave like 1/16" to 1/8" play, but not more). Recommend you start the bike when you're doing this (on the center stand preferably) and move the bars to the left and right limits to make sure you haven't tightened it too much. You'll know if you've taken out too much slack if the bike revs when moving the handlebars.

Check your brake pads, make sure you're not down to the last quarter inch. Look for leaks / discoloration around the final drive, front forks and the bottom of your crank case (near the oil filter). Check your battery connections for solid terminal contacts. Other than that, make sure your tires have good tread depth and aren't cracking (dry rotting) or have uneven wear.

Enjoy the smiles and miles as you get to know her! :^ ) AB
 
I change my oil twice as frequently as bike manufactures specify - regardless of bike brand or oil type.
The why is longish. So I do 4000 miles for C14. My bike's engine is so oil tight I don't bother to check the level
until I'm ready to change oil ... and then the oil is just where I had filled it the prior time. I bet your bike will be just as oil frugal.

Welcome
 
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I change the motor oil on the 09 at the 3,000 mile mark and the final drive every other motor oil change. As long as the oil level is between the sight glass lines, your good. Most American males like the oil level at the top line as do I.

My 09 is oil tight too. But before a long trip I put it on the center stand and take a peek at the sight glass just to make me feel good about the oil level if nothing else. I have not had to add oil in between oil changes. The level in the sight glass has not changed between oil changes.

Because I change at the 3,ooo mile mark rather than the recommended 7,500 mile mark I found using dino oil a little easier on the pocket book. Actually if I used the synthetic oil and went to the 7,500 mile mark, it would probably come close to costing about the same.
 
I would say it depends on your riding style. If you do mostly short trips, I'd change it more frequently. If mostly longer trips, and use synthetic oil, I'd change it every 6K miles. Or every season if you do less than the preceding miles.

My '08 uses next to no oil between changes.

Make sure you wait awhile before checking the oil level in the sight glass so most has drained into the crankcase, including when you change oil.

I use Rotella T6 full synthetic 15W-40. It's a JASO MA2 oil. Good price at Walmart, etc.
 
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IBAJIM said:
I would say it depends on your riding style. If you do mostly short trips, I'd change it more frequently. If mostly longer trips, and use synthetic oil, I'd change it every 6K miles. Or every season if you do less than the preceding miles.

My '08 uses next to no oil between changes.

Make sure you wait awhile before checking the oil level in the sight glass so most has drained into the crankcase, including when you change oil.

I use Rotella T6 full synthetic 15W-40. It's a JASO MA2 oil. Good price at Walmart, etc.
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Same for me, bike & oil type except I do 5,000 miles just because it seems easier to keep up with. T6 cost no more than dino oil.
 
I use full synthetic Valvoline Motorcycle Oil and have been changing with each set of tires ~ 4,000 - 5,500 miles.

Earlier in Blue’s life I was changing at 3,000 miles with same synthetic oil now as mentioned above.
 
lather:

Thanks for that info !! It confirms my gut feeling that most Owners of a MC with a water cooled engine change oil way too often. But I'd rather change mine oil too often than not enough.
 
IBAJIM said:
lather:

Thanks for that info !! It confirms my gut feeling that most Owners of a MC with a water cooled engine change oil way too often. But I'd rather change mine oil too often than not enough.
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I know I do... lol...
 
The reason I did the Blackstone test was that some wise guy was dissing on T6, telling us we were destroying our engines not using MC specific oil. I did a back to back test with Motuls most expensive MC oil and T6 won.
 
IBAJIM said:
I wonder why he thought T6 isn't a MC oil ? It meets the JASO MA2 spec.
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When I first started using T6 it was not certified as JASO MA2. This was around 2000. I am not sure but I think the JASO MA2 certification is only 3-5 years old. I believe the Rotella oils were originally marketed as a desiel engine oil.
 
lather said:
When I first started using T6 it was not certified as JASO MA2. This was around 2000. I am not sure but I think the JASO MA2 certification is only 3-5 years old. I believe the Rotella oils were originally marketed as a desiel engine oil.
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Can you post a pic of the container? I'm still using 20W50 conventional for the time being.

I bought the Schnitz filter and PSR magnetic drain plug. I'm still debating what to do about switching to synthetic.

1623463872251.png 1623464113620.png
 
IBAJIM said:
Info. & Specifications PDF

From the PDF:

SPECIFICATIONS AND APPROVALS Shell Rotella® T6 15W-40 API, CK-4, CJ-4, ACEA E9, JASO DH-2, MA/MA 2; Caterpillar ECF-2, ECF-3; Cummins CES 20086; DDC DFS 93K222; MB-Approval 228.31; Volvo VDS-4.5; Ford WSS-M2C171-F1;




View attachment 29557
Click to expand...

Thank you. This is what I wanted to confirm. I've been hesitant to go synthetic for our wet sump bike as it's new/different from what I grew up with (at least for me). I've used synthetics in all my cars and SUVs for the past 10+ yrs but this is my first bike in two decades. I'm still catching up to what's changed in the lubricant department for our modern ECU motors.

I read the article (can't remember who posted it) about engine oils and the additives, and caught up on JASO and MA-2. Just a little uncertain how many miles I should expect between oil changes here in the hot TX weather, and what the cost difference will be vs long-term "wear and tear" reduction. Frankly, I wouldn't mind changing oil each time I swap fresh tires (rather than every 3k miles).

I've had my '21 C14 for 78 days so far and rolled over 4,700 miles earlier today, which means approx 60 miles per day on avg. I've changed oil twice, once at ~600 miles and then again at 3,800. Each filter cost $15 and the oil cost $30, so right around $50 including rags. That's pretty inexpensive. I'm looking for a cost : benefit analysis indicating what makes the synthetic a better option in the short-, medium- and long-term. Will it decrease gunk build-up or reduce my maintenance expense at some point down the road?

If anyone can clearly articulate what it is that makes the synthetic a worthwhile investment I can make a more well-informed decision. Because as I understand it, once you switch to synthetic you can't switch back. Any insights (beyond personal preferences) from the forum is very much appreciated.

And I'm really enjoying this ongoing discussion with folks who are riding the same machine as me. :^ )
 
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Older C14s like yours have a known issue where oil may seep from the top-left side of the engine. However, the seepage is typically so slight that engine heat burns it up before it reaches the ground. And since the cowling covers the engine you're not likely to see it unless you really look hard. So you could lose enough between changes that it may drop a bit in the sight glass, but if it were to drop low enough where you had to add oil between changes, the seepage I mentioned has gotten bad enough to get looked at, or there's another issue at play. These bikes really don't burn oil unless they're mechanically unsound.
 
According to Murphy: The perfect time to change oil is just after you finished getting the garage floor all cleaned up, and just before the motorcycle dealer in town has a huge blow out sale on motorcycle oil and they start giving away free filters to boot.
 
I have a 2009 C14, I change my oil once per season. I use Amsoil full synthetic plus the Amsoil filter, I change my oil in the fall when I'm putting the bike away for the winter so it overwinters with clean oil in it and then ride on that oil all the next season. I average 13-14 thousand km per year (8-9k miles) and the bike has 129,489 km (81k miles) on the odometer. The only time there's a hint of oil consumption is on road trips where the three factors of fully loaded (about 950 lb.) high daily heat (mid 90s or higher) and long hours at high speed (65 mph+) come together, remove any one of the three factors and this bike uses zero oil.
 
This confirms my suspicions, but I don't have the guts to go that long between changes. I change my oil & filter at the end of the riding season too, but I don't do that many miles a year since I have 2 bikes to ride.
 
The Amsoil motorcycle oil I use is rated for 17,000 miles, it states on the oil jug to change every 17,000 miles or every 1 year, whichever comes first. It's worked great for me but when it comes to oil changes, do what makes you comfortable and confident in your bike.
 
For those who worry about oil wearing out, in my Freightler the engine manufacturers oil change interval is 50,000 miles and that is with dino oil, not synthetic. A previous truck I had went 425,000 miles without a change, just filters, but I ran a quality bypass filtration system. Oil would get added, about a gallon, when the filter would get changed between 12-14K. Oil analysys (Blackstone) every 20-25K miles is mandatory for extended drain intervals. Changing oil prematurely just costs more money, although on a bike it is not that much. At $500 for an oil change on my truck (going rate now) it adds up! Oil does not wear out but additives do get consumed. Only extreme heat can really damage oil. The culprit is the fine particles that are suspended in the oil.
 
Many newer cars are showing up in service bays with sludge build up in them causing permanent engine damage and dealerships are refusing to honor the warranty on them unless the owner can show proof that they followed the Heavy Use oil change interval in the manual, which is always much lower in terms of mileage. Heavy Use is defined as driving short distances, towing, driving in hot, cold, or dusty conditions, or in city traffic. Which virtually covers anyone who drives. Be careful who you listen to when folks start talking about ridiculous oil change intervals. Gas and Oil are the two cheapest things you'll ever buy for your bike. My advice is don't try to pinch pennies by running extended oil change intervals.
 
IBAJIM said:
Info. & Specifications PDF

From the PDF:

SPECIFICATIONS AND APPROVALS Shell Rotella® T6 15W-40 API, CK-4, CJ-4, ACEA E9, JASO DH-2, MA/MA 2; Caterpillar ECF-2, ECF-3; Cummins CES 20086; DDC DFS 93K222; MB-Approval 228.31; Volvo VDS-4.5; Ford WSS-M2C171-F1;



IN
View attachment 29557
Click to expand...


The T6 Rotella jugs I just bought look just like this except it is 5W-40. The performance requirements include JASO-MA/MA2, but the API service letters are CK-4, CJ-4, CI4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4. There is no mention of SE, SF, or SG, nor SH, SJ or SL.

Is this 5W-40 oil OK for my 2019 Connie or should I take it back and get something else?

I don't understand all this alphabet soup but I bought it because it was the only thing Wally World had that was on Cap'n Bob's list:

forum.concours.org

C14 Parts Directory, paint codes, fluids and filters.

I started this C14 parts directory. It will be an on going work in progress. If there is a part that you would like to include in this directory, or if you want to add or make changes, please PM an existing moderator with the particulars. But please give all the information as to what directory...
forum.concours.org forum.concours.org

I originally was going to ask about the "Heavy Duty Diesel" on the label and now I'm worried that it doesn't meet specs for my engine. I knew 5W-40 was a little out of spec but it was on the list with favorable mention. I need advice from someone who does understand the a[phabet soup.
 
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Fred H. said:
Many newer cars are showing up in service bays with sludge build up in them causing permanent engine damage and dealerships are refusing to honor the warranty on them unless the owner can show proof that they followed the Heavy Use oil change interval in the manual, which is always much lower in terms of mileage. Heavy Use is defined as driving short distances, towing, driving in hot, cold, or dusty conditions, or in city traffic. Which virtually covers anyone who drives. Be careful who you listen to when folks start talking about ridiculous oil change intervals. Gas and Oil are the two cheapest things you'll ever buy for your bike. My advice is don't try to pinch pennies by running extended oil change intervals.
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Great advise. Also remember our motorcycles uses the same engine oil to lube and cool the transmission.
 
Are you in an extreme cold environment? The specification seems to match but the cold viscosity 5W40 is quite thin.

10W40 is what I run, would go with 15W40 if was readily available.

If it were me and possibly I am not informed and swayed by the manual, etc. - I would not run 5W40 in my C14.
 
I had run Mobil Delvac 1 full synth diesel 5W-40 in my C10 for almost 50K miles, and almost 35K so far in the C14.

I live in the North East and regularly ride down to 32* and have gone down to 19* when streets are dry.
 
Uncle Vern said:
The T6 Rotella jugs I just bought look just like this except it is 5W-40. The performance requirements include JASO-MA/MA2, but the API service letters are CK-4, CJ-4, CI4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4. There is no mention of SE, SF, or SG, nor SH, SJ or SL.

Is this 5W-40 oil OK for my 2019 Connie or should I take it back and get something else?
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2andblue said:
I would not run 5W40 in my C14.
Click to expand...

I have been running 5-40 T6 for roughly 225,000 miles with no issues.

Had a oil analysis done at 200,000 & all was good, I posted it on the forum. I have oil set aside from my 250K oil change, I'll be sending it off to Blackstone for analysis also. I'll post results the same as I did at 200K.

I don't see a problem, but that's just me.
 
Just Cliff said:
I have been running 5-40 T6 for roughly 225,000 miles with no issues.

Had a oil analysis done at 200,000 & all was good, I posted it on the forum. I have oil set aside from my 250K oil change, I'll be sending it off to Blackstone for analysis also. I'll post results the same as I did at 200K.

I don't see a problem, but that's just me.
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That’s strong testimony!
 
Just Cliff said:
I have been running 5-40 T6 for roughly 225,000 miles with no issues.

Had a oil analysis done at 200,000 & all was good, I posted it on the forum. I have oil set aside from my 250K oil change, I'll be sending it off to Blackstone for analysis also. I'll post results the same as I did at 200K.

I don't see a problem, but that's just me.
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I've been using Shell Rotella T6, 5W-40 in my C10 for many years, with no issues. I sold the C10 last month at 116,300 miles, (98,000 of which were mine). I just changed the oil and filter in my "new" 2009 C14, using the same oil. Good stuff.
 
Thanks gang (especially Cliff); I wanted to make sure there was only one Rotella T6 5W-40 out there, since I knew many of you run it. At times like this I miss my late father, a chemical engineer. My trade was cooking; I can tell you how to season and roast a great prime rib, or whip up a mean Alfredo sauce, but with any chemistry that doesn't involve food I am out of my depth. BTW, this will be my first experience with synthetic motor oil so I don't wanna screw up.

I live in coastal South Carolina, where snow days are few and far between; hurricanes are much more common. Soon as this afternoon heat drops a little I'll get out in the garage and get this oil change done!

See ya'll at RWTW if I don't get bit by the Dragon on the way there! 🏍️ :)🏍️:)🏍️:)
 
Uncle Vern said:
My trade was cooking; I can tell you how to season and roast a great prime rib, or whip up a mean Alfredo sauce, but with any chemistry that doesn't involve food I am out of my depth.

See ya'll at RWTW if I don't get bit by the Dragon on the way there! 🏍️ :)🏍️:)🏍️:)
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Looks we got a chef for the wolf! :LOL:

This article about oil viscosity from Blackstone Labs just happen to pop up today. It explains about manufacture recommendations & using different viscosity oil.
 

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Well, that helps some, but a lot of that was over my head.

As a retired chef, I feel obliged to point out that my favorite meal is the one that someone else cooks!!:D I am looking forward to seeing what the TWOS staff comes up with for Saturday night. If anyone wants me to cook, just supply the food, fire and equipment, and (this is vital) don't let me run outta beer!!!!🍺🍺🍺

I put in 4.5 qts of the 5W40, new Wix filter, and the sight glass looks perfect. If you see me at the Wolf we can assume I didn't screw up!!
 
Just Cliff said:
Looks we got a chef for the wolf! :LOL:

This article about oil viscosity from Blackstone Labs just happen to pop up today. It explains about manufacture recommendations & using different viscosity oil.
Click to expand...
I liked the article, however general in nature, it was informative.

What is going rate for a Blackstone or similar oil analysis. Do they also perform an analysis for rear differential gear oil?

Kind of curious if I have any additional metal in my oil from the Quickshifter, although seeming smoother - is it really?
 
Uncle Vern said:
I am looking forward to seeing what the TWOS staff comes up with for Saturday night.

I put in 4.5 qts of the 5W40, new Wix filter, and the sight glass looks perfect. If you see me at the Wolf we can assume I didn't screw up!!
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Typically BBQ, beans & potato salad with sort of dessert. Wix is what I typically use, not that it matters.

See ya at the wolf! :)


2andblue said:
I liked the article, however general in nature, it was informative.

What is going rate for a Blackstone or similar oil analysis. Do they also perform an analysis for rear differential gear oil?

Kind of curious if I have any additional metal in my oil from the Quickshifter, although seeming smoother - is it really?
Click to expand...

$28.00 best I remember, they send a nice little kit to mail the oil in. I see no reason they don't do differentials, it's still oil.
 
I'll be the dork w/ the brand-new Dragon shirt! Looking forward to meeting you folks, and to some cool mountain nights. Heck, it's 70 degrees right now (230 am)!..make that 59 degrees outside!!!!!....... in coastal NE S Carolina.!!!! I know the heat's coming back but if it holds off a week I won't cry!!!
 
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In my C14s...different than my cruisers. Those have the oil and filter changed as part of the winter layup process, and - depending on mileage accrued during the riding season - may get a change from semi to full synthetic if I'm planning an extended trip. Once they have fresh oil and a filter, they're stored and not fired on that oil until spring.

The C14s are kept online year round and are ridden any time the weather permits. I've run AMSoil in them from the second change onward (at 3k miles) and will usually change it every fall. If I was limited to just the Connies, the change interval would be at the 4-5k mile mark. Most of the mileage I accrue on them is spent on interstates or secondary highways - very limited stop-and-go type riding, so I can stretch the intervals out a bit.
 
Uncle Vern said:
I'll be the dork w/ the brand-new Dragon shirt! Looking forward to meeting you folks, and to some cool mountain nights. Heck, it's 70 degrees right now (230 am)!..make that 59 degrees outside!!!!!....... in coastal NE S Carolina.!!!! I know the heat's coming back but if it holds off a week I won't cry!!!
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Enjoyed meeting you, sir!! Come back soon!!
 
Nice meeting lots of you folks too! Me and my swelbo got home just fine after an overnight stop at a Super 8 in Anderson. I got to drive a Tesla!! Crossed my hometown city limit just as the night mode on my GPS and the low gas light on my dash came on!! Thanks for the Hard Luck Story plaque; its already on the wall!!!
 
mudumbas220 said:
Hi, this is my first Concours 14. It is a 2012 model. Can someone suggest me when is the best time to change all the oils.
I am getting mixed information from our Google friend. 3000 miles if it is normal oil or 7000 miles if it is synthetic.
I am guessing if the oil is low I would get a warning light.
Are there any other fluids that I need to look out for.
Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
I have used Mobil 1 synthetic 15-50 for years on most of my bikes. My C-10 had 278K (bought new) on it when I sold it. I usually change it between 3500 and 4K. When it shifts with a click, click instead of snick, snick it is time..Remember the oil is being used for both the engine and transmission so it will degrade sooner than the oil in your 4 wheeler, especially with the height RPM motors. YMMV and I am not an expert but it has worked for me.
 
For me, it's usually late afternoon when the sun is not too hot and the house shades the part of the driveway where I'm set up, it varies during the year, but a cloudy day brings up many possibilities. But I would say between 3 and 4PM is probably the most perfect time to change the oil in my C14. Now, a car is sometime else altogether and that may require a whole new thread as there are many more variables involved in changing oil in a car.
 
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